Round-up question
- Thread starter johninct
- Start date
doesn't the the instructions say something 3 or 4 or5 days?
yatg
Well-known member
I would've chopped those down to a foot and then sprayed heavy.
What kind of Roundup? glyphosate or the new stuff they're peddling?
What concentration in the jug?
My experience is with traditional glyphosate.
I find it depends on temp and humidity. Seems to take longer when its cool.
I usually wait a week and they get crispy.
Roundup is a systemic. It gets absorbed into the greenery and carried to the root system. You need to give it enough time to work.
Iowa says 2 weeks.
yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu
What kind of Roundup? glyphosate or the new stuff they're peddling?
What concentration in the jug?
My experience is with traditional glyphosate.
I find it depends on temp and humidity. Seems to take longer when its cool.
I usually wait a week and they get crispy.
Roundup is a systemic. It gets absorbed into the greenery and carried to the root system. You need to give it enough time to work.
Iowa says 2 weeks.
Roundup: It's Not What it Used to Be!
Glyphosate, once synonymous with Roundup®, is now less available. New Roundup formulas differ in active ingredients and intended use, requiring careful label reading for safe and proper application.
Codyboy
Well-known member
I use tryclopyr from the feed store.
Buy yes on cutting it down first and then spraying .
You say weeds OP but is it weeds or woody brush?
Round up *****.
Buy yes on cutting it down first and then spraying .
You say weeds OP but is it weeds or woody brush?
Round up *****.
Captain Spaulding
Well-known member
Since it is absorbed through the foliage, glyphosate is most effective with maximum leaf area and a healthy, growing plant. Don’t cut before you spray.
bluedog225
Well-known member
Cut and quick spray is more effective in my experience. Goes straight in.
I do a mix of 2oz of 41% glyphosate + 1oz of 2-4-D per gallon and find its pretty effective at killing many different kinds of weeds and brush. Its not super fast and usually takes 2 weeks to completely kill "dead" everything. I am talking brown and dried up. The weeds need to be actively growing for it to work, so if you are in a drought condition its a waste of time to spray. I personally dont see the point in weed wacking before or after until its completely dead, Isnt that the point of spraying so that you dont have to trim?
rlitman
Well-known member
To this, I will add that testing has shown it to be 3x as effective when sprayed in the morning vs the evening.
It does not go straight into woody parts, though it can go straight into the cuts. However, the spray concentration is too low to do much on cuts, because while the green parts have a large surface area for the weak spray to cover, the cuts have very little.
If you must cut first (and there are times this makes sense), you can apply the direct 41% concentrate via a dropper bottle to the cuts. Never spray the concentrate.
chemical misuse is real, and it had consequences.
glyphosate used to be a great chemical. not using enough, using too often, as a single mode of action and other misuse have greatly diminished it's effectiveness.
many weeds are now fully or partially resistant to it.
applying to cut plants with no foliage and destroying the plant before it is fully absorbed to the roots are bad ideas.
if glyphosate is not browning or wilting the weeds in a couple days and showing signs of full death in a week there is a good chance your weeds are resistant, and you are using the wrong chemical or mode of action.
glyphosate used to be a great chemical. not using enough, using too often, as a single mode of action and other misuse have greatly diminished it's effectiveness.
many weeds are now fully or partially resistant to it.
applying to cut plants with no foliage and destroying the plant before it is fully absorbed to the roots are bad ideas.
if glyphosate is not browning or wilting the weeds in a couple days and showing signs of full death in a week there is a good chance your weeds are resistant, and you are using the wrong chemical or mode of action.
bluedog225
Well-known member
Have to disagree. Look up the cut stump method endorsed by many ag extension services.
mreisner
Well-known member
Most important thing with glyphosate is to use a surfactant, even Dawn dishwashing detergent is very effective and that **** that they sell premixed is an ultimate ripoff when you can get a gallon of 41percent for $20 or so
rlitman
Well-known member
Which involves girdling cuts and directly applying concentrate (exactly what I said). And never spraying concentrate. What are you disagreeing with?
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Same. Adding a small amount of fertilizer helps.
If I want to make sure they are really dead, I hit the area a second time after about 10 days.
I have a stump beside my shop that just won't die! I poured 41% into the check crack on top and a hole in the side. Only about 3 oz. That ***** went away quick, new shouts dead in a week.
pouring glyphosate on a tree stump is not the same as cutting down a 4 foot weed and spraying its roots.
i am currently doing a burndown to kill weeds in a harvested wheat field. i am using lv6, crop oil and other leftover chemical.
why? because glyphosate barely works on kochia and waterhemp anymore but "wtf" do i know. i use chemicals almost every day.
i am currently doing a burndown to kill weeds in a harvested wheat field. i am using lv6, crop oil and other leftover chemical.
why? because glyphosate barely works on kochia and waterhemp anymore but "wtf" do i know. i use chemicals almost every day.
jblnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I love these threads. “I used 678oz per gallon and …”. Doesn’t matter the concentration. It matters how much you apply lol. When I want to make things toasty I spray a 15gal/acre mix containing -> 32oz glyphosate, 43oz Glufosinste, 24oz Atrizine 4l, 3lbs AMS and 1oz Dawn Platinum. Makes all weeds you don’t want alive dead. If not, reapply in 3 weeks lol. I’m spraying 1,000gal loads on over 4,000 acres between my own and custom work so what do I know.
When I want to use the 4-wheeler and make broadleafs toasty I shoot for 10oz Dicamba/acre and paint the weeds until they drip. Makes thistles, waterhemp and giant rag weed crunchy in days.
Glyphosate is not meant to kill woody things or most things but grass these days. Try it and argue with me I don’t care. You need something with Triclopyr 4 and 2,4D anime. Crossbow has been a good one here that anyone can buy. There are others that have restricted use labels that work better but the average Joe Homeowner cannot buy them. Get some Crossbow if you want to kill brush.
When I want to use the 4-wheeler and make broadleafs toasty I shoot for 10oz Dicamba/acre and paint the weeds until they drip. Makes thistles, waterhemp and giant rag weed crunchy in days.
Glyphosate is not meant to kill woody things or most things but grass these days. Try it and argue with me I don’t care. You need something with Triclopyr 4 and 2,4D anime. Crossbow has been a good one here that anyone can buy. There are others that have restricted use labels that work better but the average Joe Homeowner cannot buy them. Get some Crossbow if you want to kill brush.
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true statements above.
i didn't get in the woods with rates and chemicals as most don't or refuse to understand.
i have a 28 foot van trailer set up with a a 1750 cone tank, 1650 flat bottom, and 2 mix cones that feed a fast 90 foot pull type sprayer with 1850 gallon tank pulled by a challenger 55.
i spray the wheat with 10 gallons to the acre but anything with glyphosate and enlist gets bumped to 15 gallons and 20 for glufosinate .
what do you use for spray equipment?
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Most people have no business playing with dicamba.
Its so touchy to humidity/winds and can kill stuff 1/8 mile away if the conditions are wrong.
Been several people shot over the stuff in the last 10 years, one killed on the Arkansas/Misery boarder.
jblnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Triple 1500gal stationary water tanks with a trailer and 3000gal flat bottom portable for custom work. 4 inductors with pallet racking with totes connected. It works well.
I spray with a Deere 7630 and a Greenstar controlled Hardi 3500 with Norac and a 90’ boom. 125+ tanks a year puts the whole rig through its paces.
Typically 15gal work unless it’s gly/gluf work, than I run 20gal.
A good day for Dicamba is a bad for Liberty (Glufosinste) and a bad day for Liberty is a good day for Dicamba. Any herbicide can be dangerous stuff if not applied properly and/or in improper conditions.
I spray a few hundred gallons of Dicamba a year. The coops don’t want to touch it. It can be awfully messy if not applied properly. I’ll only apply it with a VRA and some drift control stuff in the mix. Even then it’s gotta be cool out and calm.
i have not sprayed dicamba in years. it really doesn't scare me. in fact i grow seed production for remington and latham. i was an original grower of stewarded dicamba soybeans before they were approved for export. it was pretty serious business, strict field and equipment inspections especially coming out of the crop. 30 foot isolations strips, locked and tagged bins, you name it. first 2 years i stored them til spring and then they were shipped to missouri to be incinerated to prevent comingling.
oddly, i sprayed both engenia and xtend while under stewerdship. no drift of volatility issues with either. somewhere in the process of making them "safer" they screwed them up. i honestly beleive whatever they did to them to make safer actually made them worse.
i also stewarded the first enlist beans and continue to grow them.
oddly, i sprayed both engenia and xtend while under stewerdship. no drift of volatility issues with either. somewhere in the process of making them "safer" they screwed them up. i honestly beleive whatever they did to them to make safer actually made them worse.
i also stewarded the first enlist beans and continue to grow them.
bluedog225
Well-known member
Cut and quick spray is more effective in my experience. Sounds like we agree.
mreisner
Well-known member
Marestail?
jblnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Are you asking me what kills it ?
It depends if it’s growing amongst things you don’t want to kill or if it and everything around it can be made crunchy. If it can all die I’d go after it with a mix of Glufosinate, Dicamba and 2,4-D. Glyphosate won’t touch most of it anymore if it’s larger than a few inches tall.
pcmeiners
Well-known member
Most people including many farmer have no business playing with any organic chemicals.
mreisner
Well-known member
I no till and I have some of its resistant to five chemistries. That stuff is a nightmare and 7 years ago didn't have any of it around!
and this is why i shake my head at some of the crazy thoughts people have on chemicals.
when you are working on your car and you need to switch tools or tactics, it is trip back to the toolbox for a different wrench or the torch and a big hammer. when it comes to chemicals on some of these weeds, there are no more tools in the toolbox and none at the store or tool truck either. new chemicals and traits are years or decades in the making and i don't know of many or any on the horizon.
jollygreengiant
Well-known member
Three days is the stated interval between spraying and tillage on the Canadian label. I'd think you would be fine using that interval as well for your situation.
Do you have a link for these tests? Everything I have seen on time of use of glyphosate has showed a max of 30-40% increase in efficacy.
Surfactant makes a huge difference in how well glyphosate works.
That premixed stuff is mainly sold for ease of use. It's cost per unit of AI is terrible, and those products usually contain a pretty low amount of actual glyphosate.
That all depends on what you were using before. If you had been using the old 360gm glyphosate with no surfactant and are now using the 540gm glyphosate with surfactant, then yeah the new stuff will seem like it's a totally different product.
That's certainly a hot mix lol. You are spraying that over crop land, not just around the buildings?
I'd keep an eye on your waterhemp and giant rag just to make sure that they actually die. The glufosinate in that mix is likely the only chemical that still has activity on them.
Triclopyr works really well but anyone using it needs to be careful of where they apply it. It has a long residual so you need to watch it if you are wanting to plant any other broadleafs 1-2 years after you apply it.
The problem isn't dicamba, it's people using dicamba. Yes it has issues, but these issues are well known and aren't a problem when it's used properly.
It's still amazing to me that we had temperature restrictions on Dicamba labels up here in the great white north for years, but you guys in hotter climates didn't.
Dicamba works well, it just has issues when it's not used properly. It's not the products that are more volatile, it's people thinking they are just like roundup and adding AMS, spraying in the wind, spraying in the heat, etc that is causing dicamba issues. If you spray in 30mph winds on a 85 degree day while using AMS you shouldn't be surprised when it gasses off and nails your neighbors crops 2 miles away.
Between these issues and the resistance issues it won't be long until we lose the group 4 chemistries as an option. I'm really not looking forward to that.
What MOA's are the 5 that it's resistant to?
mreisner
Well-known member
Gly,als,triazine,glufosinate, and the fifth one escapes me at the moment but I'll think of it in the middle of the night
Firebrick43
Well-known member
That is literally the dictionary definition of "more volatile"
And it doesn't take 30 mph winds, it takes a slight breeze and some heat/humidity. Very few other herbicides will nail things so far away with so little product.
Higgins
Well-known member
I've found if i spray spray tall weeds, it will take a lot longer. once they do die, you will be stuck with a 2-4 ft brown plant, and sometime hard to pull up!I would've chopped those down to a foot and then sprayed heavy.
What kind of Roundup? glyphosate or the new stuff they're peddling?
What concentration in the jug?
My experience is with traditional glyphosate.
I find it depends on temp and humidity. Seems to take longer when its cool.
I usually wait a week and they get crispy.
Roundup is a systemic. It gets absorbed into the greenery and carried to the root system. You need to give it enough time to work.
Iowa says 2 weeks.
Roundup: It's Not What it Used to Be!
Glyphosate, once synonymous with Roundup®, is now less available. New Roundup formulas differ in active ingredients and intended use, requiring careful label reading for safe and proper application.
jollygreengiant
Well-known member
I guess I should have been more clear.
The original formulations of dicamba were/are volatile. It's the newer formulation of dicamba I was referring to when I said it's not as volatile. It still has volatility, but it's not as volatile as the older versions.
And no, it doesn't take 30mph winds. I was being a bit dramatic to make my point that too many people used the new dicamba with the same bad habits that they used with glyohosate.
Well, not all were bad habits. The addition of AMS is actually a good thing with a lot of glyphosate apps, but it's a very bad thing to do with Dicamba. I don't think that was widely understood when it first came out.
you shouldn't imply that i sprayed it incorrectly.
i will explain it again. i was part of the extend test bed, initial seed production growers. numero uno after the scientists. years before anyone else was allowed to plant them. i had to go to classes and be certified to plant it spray it harvest it, everthing one could think of to prevent another diptera debacle. the people in charge were so batshit crazy they nearly forced me to destroy a field because someone else planted soybeans into my isolation barrier. (they planted over my marked property line).
beleive me or not, i used the dicamba precisely as supplied and required by the rules and regs. the old formulations i was required to use were less volatile than the xtend and engenia required by the current labels. your mileage may vary but that is the experience i had.
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jblnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Chem is cheap vs the additional time and application cost of an additional trip over the field so yeah, it’s a luke warm mix or so lol.
Glufosinste does okay on waterhemp and giant rag weed until it’s gets to a certain size. As long as you use some crop oil (I like Zaar) and a good surfactant and spray it on a hot miserable day it does well. If not then the Dicamba needs to come out either in the big sprayer or the smaller spot spray rig. Paint that **** until it drops and watch it curl.
Dicamba is a great tool in the toolbox but like everything it has its risks. We’ve yet to have an issue and I intend to keep it that way.
I buy Clash, DiFlexx Duo and Engenia for use in corn and soybeans.
What “new Dicamba” are you referring to that isn’t as volatile ?
Unless it has some DC and VRA mixed in already I don’t see how it could be less volatile. Engenia isn’t horrid but it can still wander. Clash and DiFlexx Duo need a shock collar put on them to keep them in the field lol.
Whoa, who TF is mixing AMS in with Dicamba !? That’s like giving a heavyweight boxer a free shot while you keep your eyes closed and hope they miss. Yikes.