Router and Custom Router Table discussion

[jony(b)]

Hi all, I do lots of 12V and marine audio in my shop, along with a few other automotive things. I've decided to build a router table. It will actually be converted from a rolling workbench that I already have. The top of this bench is 4X8, and the deck is either 1/2" or 5/8" plywood (can't remember). I plan to top that with a full sheet of 3/4" MDF, then top that with a full 4X8 piece of white paneling that has a slick finish. I'll put the router at one end, about 2' in from the edge centered. The other end will have a belt/disc sander, scroll saw, and spindle sander.

Does that sound like the correct route for converting that bench to a router table?

What's the ideal router these days? A search last night that goes back to Summer of 08 on here showed a few things: PC is Firestorm, Sears is junk, and maybe Bosch or Ridgid routers are okay. What's the general concensus today?

A picture of the shop so this thread isn't totally worthless

 

[CenTex52Chevy]

I've a bosch router for a couple of years now, no problems with it so far. It does all it want it to.

Have you thought about how you are going to attach the fence for the router table? Also have you considered how you are going to change bits and adjust the height on the router. I haven't build my router table yet, but I've been looking into install a router plate into my table so I can easily remove the route for bit changes and what not.

 

[jony(b)]

The part about the statement that scares me about the Bosch router being good for a few years is this: Is Bosch still building them? Porter Cable and a few others were good a few years ago too, but they sold they're souls, apparently. Thanks for the response though, I am kind of leaning towards the Bosch.

I forgot to mention, my router budget is limited to under $200....

For attaching it, most of the routers I've looked at had a removable plate, so I guess I was going to buy one, then take a piece of mdf and experiment before I try to mount it to the table. I had assumed that I'd grind down a spot in the mdf with the router, then countersink the screw holes so it's smooth at the top.... I'm open to suggestions though. Hopefully someone that's built something like this will chime in. Pics are more than welcome too.

 

[ghnl]

Will you need to be adjusting the router bit's height often? If so, look at some of the newer models that have crank adjustable height mechanisms -or- get a plunge router and add a Router Raizer. There are other brands of add-on router height adjustment mechanisms, too.

I have my router hung under the side table on my table saw. If needed, I can use the table saw's fence with the router. Instead of routing out the underside of the table & bolting the router directly to the table, make an oversize cut out in the top and rout a lip around the cut-out. Then get a piece of 3/8" or 1/2" plexiglass and attach the router to that. Then you can easily remove the router if needed.

 

[metal1313]

go to rockler's website and look at their set ups. you can buy just the table inserts, and i would recommend geting one like this. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21299&filter=router table

you dont want one to flex, and you may want to be able to put in different rings depending on what your doing

 

[l_bilyk]

Take a look at this website... he is a bit heavy handed but correct

http://www.patwarner.com/

As for routers for table duty, get either a milwaukee 5625-20 or a porter cable 7518

The porter cable is a precision instrument and the industry standard, but they have a reputation for failing speed controllers once they get old

The milwaukee is a relatively new entrant in this market and is a fine tool as well. You can probably get a better deal on this one if you shop around.

If you want to buy a middleweight router kit with 2 bases, the bosch 1617 is king.

 

[rsanter]

have you looked into getting a benchtop shaper?

bob

 

[JT's Place]

off topic, but if you're doing speaker builds I'd recommend picking up a jasper jig. Very popular jig for making rings.

 

[jony(b)]

off topic, but if you're doing speaker builds I'd recommend picking up a jasper jig. Very popular jig for making rings.

Actually, yes.... But not from MDF or Masonite.

have you looked into getting a benchtop shaper?

bob

No sir, care to post one up? I found one today made by Ridgid at HD. Belt sander that converted to a spindle sander for $199. I haven't bought a spindle sander yet and considered it but won't be purchasing one anytime soon.

Take a look at this website... he is a bit heavy handed but correct

http://www.patwarner.com/

As for routers for table duty, get either a milwaukee 5625-20 or a porter cable 7518

The porter cable is a precision instrument and the industry standard, but they have a reputation for failing speed controllers once they get old

The milwaukee is a relatively new entrant in this market and is a fine tool as well. You can probably get a better deal on this one if you shop around.

If you want to buy a middleweight router kit with 2 bases, the bosch 1617 is king.

Thanks for the advice. Lots of info on that site, but I noticed on one of them he'd posted that info in 2005.

As I said above I went to Home Depot to look around. Here's what I found:

Porter Cable:
1001-t2 1 3/4hp, 11A, 27500rpm $149
890 2 1/4hp, 12A 10k-23krpm $189

Ridgid:
R2900 2 1/4hp 10k-23krpm 12A $199

We have no "real" tool stores here. I'm not opposed to buying online though, if any of you have suggestions.

Thanks for all the posts fellas

 

[jony(b)]

go to rockler's website and look at their set ups. you can buy just the table inserts, and i would recommend geting one like this. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21299&filter=router table

you dont want one to flex, and you may want to be able to put in different rings depending on what your doing

Looks like I"ll go that direction.... By looking at that page, they make different plates for different routers?

 

[StupidHippie]

Hope this isn't too late...check out the Lee Valley/Veritas router table:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=41793&cat=1,43053,43885

I use one at work and like it.

As for routers...I'd look at Makita. Ours are twenty years old and still running.

Rob...prop/spfx/furniture builder

 

[Keep]

Triton has received some really great reviews and they are not the most expensive out there either. Portal Cable are also nice but pricey.

I would just say get the biggest you can afford now, just like a welder, you do not want to need a bigger one in the future. You can buy just the drop in plates for the tables, or just buy some 1/4 alum and make your own.

 

[jony(b)]

The only thing I'm affraid about the Big Box stores is that they're selling tools with a label, but built by a cheaper manufacturer. Didn't I read that about the Porter Cable being built by Black and Decker?

Change on the table design. Instead of 3/4" mdf and paneling, I found a sheet of 3/4" Melamine to top the table with.

 

[kwhitelaw]

http://www.mobilesolutions-usa.com/smartparts/routeraccessories_1a.htm

if I was going to set up a table, I'd order half this catalog lol..expensive, but good stuff..

unrelated, but jonyb, are you running a stereo shop? you should check out 12vinsider.com if so..

 

[Pathfinder]

Jony(b)

For a router table application ghnl is right about above the table height adjustment and Keep has an excellent recommendation with the Triton router.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2080240/27328/Triton-2-14-HP-Plunge-Router.aspx#ReviewHeader

I am looking to build a router table soon and the Triton 2 1/4 HP Plunge Router is the one I have chosen. The Router Raizer ghnl mentions is nice, but will cost almost as much as the router. Above table height adjustment is built into the Triton.

Hope this helps.

John Minton

 

[Pathfinder]

Oops. I got an error statement and reposted. Now I've got two posts.

Go figure.

John Minton

 

[Abodyracer]

I know for a fact that Craftsman Router bits are made by Bosch, I believe the Routers themselves are as well. I can tell you this, in the 3 years I worked at Sears we never saw a router come back for any reason other than the customer did not want it. If you go Craftsman get the Professional series, 12.5 amp 2 1/2 hp motors, variable speed, soft start.

 

[a390st]

Some CMan routers are no worse than a lot of the other cheap big box routers. I have an old CMan fixed base router that is really good. I have a newer plunge one I got for half off once. I also had a Freud plunge from Lowe's that was absolutely fine. I would have kept that one but someone wanted it a lot worse than I did. The big Hitachi 3+ hp routers are really good. I have used them several times, as a friend has them. They are big and heavy, and are no fun to drag around for light work. However, for production work where you need to move quickly, or for very heavy material, they are great. You can't buy anything like that at the local big box. If you are going to be taking your time or just doing occasional or moderate difficulty work, most of the routers you see at Lowe's are fine. If you are going to get really serious about it, you may want to go bigger. Oh, and don't take me for a big Hitachi fan. I am still fighting them over a bad chuck on a drill that is under warranty.

 

[woody 73]

Hi Tony,

Give Bench Dog Tools a Call at 1-800-786-8902 and get their catalog.
take a look at their router tables you might just be pleasantly surprised!
Hey it's a free call , a free catalog of(tools), and you can get a new idea on a router table.

All the best Woody.

 

[l_bilyk]

As I said above I went to Home Depot to look around. Here's what I found:

Porter Cable:
1001-t2 1 3/4hp, 11A, 27500rpm $149
890 2 1/4hp, 12A 10k-23krpm $189

Ridgid:
R2900 2 1/4hp 10k-23krpm 12A $199

The 690 is a good solid router but the plunge base is junk. If you need plunging action, look elsewhere. The big makita 3hp router and hitachi M12V or M12V2 are solid as well, but they are bug do it all plunge routers that are not ideal if you are mounting to a table. The jury is still out on the ridgid. The OLD craftsman professional was made by bosch. I have that router. It's identical to the bosch model I suggested except the craftsman has a weird size of collar guides. The new one is not made by bosch.. I also have that one. It's OK but sometimes it seems like it's hunting for the correct speed.

When it comes to routers it really depends on what you need. If it's going to spend most of it's time in a cabinet then get a big 3hp, fixed base router like I suggested. If you plan on using the plunge feature then get something like a hitachi M12V and you can do both. If you don't plan to use any large bits then get one of those 1 3/4 - 2 1/4 hp kits with two bases (bosch, dewalt, ridgid?). Keep the fixed base in the cabinet and use and the plunge for hand routing. Finally don't be swayed by useless features - collar lock buttons are more complicated to use than two wrenches, above table adjustment is useless because you have to go under the table to unclip the motor latch, dust collection is not going to be great no matter what they claim (unless it's mounted in a cabinet), lights are only useful if you're working in a dim room (a no-no to begin with).

Personally I prefer to do most routing with a router table and out of the 6 routers I have the milwaukee 5625 gets the most use. It's good for hand use too because the handles are big, widely spaced, and tilted forward.

 

[jony(b)]

I checked out the Craftsman's today. Seems like they're the same as the Triton or Milwaukee's for a little less. Maybe not the quality, but seemed to have the same features. The lights' on the CMan are a joke. It's like the neon and stereo's they put in toolboxes. Worthless....

The CMan is model 28190, 12.5A, variable-speed, for $129. I may go that direction. I probably won't use it much until it's mastered.

Thanks again for all the helpful responses.