router bit for box-making?

[vavet]

A link to this popped up in my facebook newsfeed. I have no association with them. I'm simply intrigued by this. I'm planning to make some boxes as containers to go in a lateral file cabinet. My tentative plan was to use my Kreg jig to put the boxes together. I know there are better and stronger ways, but I don't want this to be a project unto itself.

This router bit
https://pillowbread.com/products/45-lock-miter-router-bit?variant=1098787029011

has me curious though. I think I'd have to use a router table, right?
Any other ideas or thoughts? Any downfalls I'm not anticipating?

The other products on the website look a little too "gadgety", so I'm not optimistic, but I figured some of our folks here might be interested or be able to offer an opinion about it.

 

[rlitman]

I have one of those (well, a lock miter bit at least; I don't recall the brand). Yeah, you really need to use a router table with it.

 

[littleponderosa]

Decent surface area. Looks clean. Sides shouldn't roll in or out. I like it.
With me it would the router table.
Bill

 

[cgrutt]

Don't have one of those but would imagine in addition to router table you would need some sort of jig to hold the piece you're working on due to the miter. Not much to run on table.

Note you can also make a similar joint (functionally) but not mitered on a table saw using only one pass on each side with the kerf of blade. As an example if the wood that you're using for the box is 3/8" thick you would take one pass with a side flat on table and cut an 1/8" deep x 1/8" wide pass ending 3/8" from end of board. The other side would also be held with side flat on table for 1/4" deep x 1/8" wide pass at end of board. This creates a 1/8" x 1/8" lip at end of board which is fitted into the 1/8" x 1/8" slot in the first board. Easier to cut and arguably safer than the joint created by the router bit. Just throwing out another option hope this makes sense.

 

[MoonRise]

45 Lock Miter router bit.

One of many (decent) ways to make a box.

Yes, you use that type bit in a router table. Once you dial in the bit depth (to the router table top) and the fence setting, you then run one piece of the box carcass 'flat' on the router table top and the mating box piece is then run vertically against the fence.

http://go.rockler.com/tech/45-Degree-Lock-Miter-Instructions.pdf

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/graphics2/TM26-29lockmitre.pdf

http://www.leevalley.com/US/shopping/Instructions.aspx?p=51601

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/lock-miters

https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/mastering-the-lock-miter-simple-steps-for-airtight-joints

 

[McFarmer]

They work good for drawers also.

A router table doesn't have to be any thing fancy. Just a good flat surface the router can fasten to from underneath. Fences can be clamped on, the whole thing clamped to a workbench. Mine is under the extension of my table saw.

 

[Git]

I am a little hesitant to post this because I don't want to scare you off. A lock miter is a great bit, but they can be a little frustrating to set up - because the height of the bit and the position of the fence has to be exact to get it to all come togethor.

They make some 'guides' that you can buy that help you get in the ballpark, but then you need to make several test cuts to dial it in.

This method works great (at least for me). You need to find the center of the bit when it is mounted in your router table. It seems a little complicated, but you really only need to do this once to find the 'offset measurement'

You do need some sort of digital height gauge - I use this one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PTGBRG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Basically you need to find the height of the two 'flats'. Then you subtract the bottom measurement from the top measurement which will give you the width of the main but, and if you divide by two - that will give you your center. The reason why this is important, is you want the center of the bit to be aligned with the center of your board.

Look at the pics - these are where to take the measurements. So in the case of my Bosch bit - I know that the center of the bit is .177" below the top flat.

If your using a 3/4" board for example, the center would be .375" above the router table. So to align the two centers - I just add the .177" to the .375" and that will be the exact height the top flat needs to be properly aligned. - See the diagram

The next step is to align the fence. Just place your board along the fence, on it's edge and with a straight edge, position the fence so it is just touching the bit and just back off a hair.

Once the bit is set up right, it is pretty easy to get joints like this

 

[larry4406]

Interesting..

I just watched these on youtube today

 

[Git]

I saw that tablesaw blade when it was first released and decided it would not work for me

Too many things to go wrong. Your relying on the thickness of the plywood (or whatever material your using to be pretty uniform. Since your cutting from the bottom up, if you hit a 'thin' spot your going to cut through or conversely you may end up with a thicker area which you now have to 'fold' and hope that the wood grain doesn't splinter, etc. I don't think you could use it with different thicknesses of wood or even different types of wood. Your cutting the whole thing at once - if you make a minor mistake, you have to replace the whole thing instead of perhaps just one board. It ties up your table saw, it cost $350, etc etc

Another thing about the lock miter - although it is preferable to use one in a router table, I have a project this summer where I need to wrap some boards around some posts. (something like the attached pic) I plan on using the lock miter bit in my router (not table) and see how it works with my track to cut the horizontal edge

 

[lilredex]

I thought about those bits, but they seemed like a lot of precision set up was needed. So, I opted for a 1/4" slotting bit that I already had. That joint is strong enough for my purposes and is easy to set up.

 

[383 240z]

I bought one of those pillow bread bits. It hasn't come in yet. It was purchased on a whim. I think with a little time on the set up it will work well. I'm designing a large entertainment/bookcase/storage unit, two of them actually, I thought it might come in handy when I start on the drawers. I saw it in an ad on Facebook, a few clicks later I was $25 lighter. My plan was to do joints like lilredex posted. My router table is just something I knocked up real quick a few nights ago. Keith

 

[rsanter]

those router bits work good but they are not new in any way.
they have been around for at least 20-30 years.
buy a good quality one, I am suspicious of the quality of the things tat pop up on FB advertising. every time I see something cool that they are calling new, I look it up on ebay or amazon and find the same thing for 1/2 to 1/4 of the price and they have been around a little while

 

[matt01073]

I use the whiteside bit it works great, but as said set up is tricky. Infinity makes a magnetic set up tool that works great and dosent need to be used with their bit .