Router bit question.

[Squiblez]

Have a relatively simple question for those that know about this kind of stuff.

Looking for something to finish off the gifts for my father and he mentioned to me once a router bit for his hand held router that would replicate cuts off a template or a part he has already made. He would be using it to cut wood only.

What i think he is referring to is a flush trim bit. Where they have a bearing either on the top or bottom.

So my questions are as follows.

1. Does the flush trim bit sound like what he is talking about?
2. are router bits universal or do i need to find out what model his router is? Edit: looks like i'll need to know shank size for his router?
3. top or bottom bearing better? what sizes are most commonly used (i dont think he would cut anything thicker than 1").

I looked into a set but not quite looking to spend ~$100 on this.

Thanks guys.

 

[Fugio]

Sounds like a flush trim bit to me. Keep in mind they come in different depths depending on thickness of wood you're trimming.

I think they are pretty much universal size if we're talking about standard consumer stuff. I'm sure there's some weird industrial sizes out there though.

Never used a top bearing one. All of mine are bottom bearing and work great!

I only own 2 different depths. No idea what they are. I just call them "deep" and "shallow."

I think they were around 20 bucks each. One is Craftsman and one of HD brand.

For a hundred bucks you could get a nice router table. That's one thing I'd like Santa to bring me this year!

 

[Squiblez]

Sounds like a flush trim bit to me. Keep in mind they come in different depths depending on thickness of wood you're trimming.

I think they are pretty much universal size if we're talking about standard consumer stuff. I'm sure there's some weird industrial sizes out there though.

Never used a top bearing one. All of mine are bottom bearing and work great!

I only own 2 different depths. No idea what they are. I just call them "deep" and "shallow."

I think they were around 20 bucks each. One is Craftsman and one of HD brand.

For a hundred bucks you could get a nice router table. That's one thing I'd like Santa to bring me this year!

yea im looking at menards website right now and they have a 1" long one for both 1/4 and 1/2 shanks for $20.

I didnt know routing tables were that cheap. now im looking for one of those.

 

[Thumper68]

I have both top and bottom bearing in several sizes dia./length

For most template work I use the top bearing, easier for me to attach the template with double sided tape to the top of the blank and follow it that way.

 

[mossyboy6]

I would suggest a template guide bushing set, with a downcut carbide bit (3/16 is a good size for softer woods), and a bottom bearing flush trim bit.

This way, you make the fist pass with the carbide bit so there is absolutely no tear out, then you cut the part out. (I just zip it out with a jigsaw usually, bandsaw works well too if the part is smaller) Then you flip the part over, put it on some bench cookies and clean the rest with a flush trim bit.

Most routers accept both 1/2 and 1/4 bits if you can still find the collets. Bottom bearing bits are harder to screw up with, but either will work generally.

So for the whole process-
Downcut carbide bit ~$15
Flush trim bit ~$25
Bushing set ~$30
Bench Cookies ~$15

With that said, if you don't mind a little tear out, you can get by with just the flush bit, but its usually a pain in the *** without a router table.

 

[scw1991]

You do get what you pay for though. A good router bit will run you $20-30 so take that into account if you buy a set. Freud is a pretty reputable brand.

Most new routers come with both 1/2" and 1/4" collets for either 1/2" or 1/4" shanked router bits but I'd ask to make sure.

http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=n:228013,k:freud router bit sets

 

[cheechi]

If you get the model of his router, you can look up whether it takes both shanks or just 1/4". If he uses it handheld, it's not going to take only 1/2" (unless he's using one bigger than should be used handheld, which is unlikely) so you could go for 1/4" if you can't find out for sure.

I personally would get the 1/2" without knowing for sure. Given the choice, go with a 1/2" shank unless it's a trim router since they only have 1/4" collets. Worst case, you err on the side of caution and might have to return it but it's a simple exchange since you said the store carries both.

For template work I prefer top bearing bits. What material does he work with? I wouldn't just go with a 1" unless that's the material size he uses. If it's 3/4" ply or 1 by then sure. If it's 1/4" ply I would go with at most a 1/2" cutting length. The bearing is going to go up against the template and guide you so unless you plunge down and follow the template blind, this is the best way routing handheld.

If the router table is bigger than the template work being done, the same logic you'd want a bottom bearing bit.

Do you know anything about what they have now? what template guide set are they using? what kind of work (size, shape, material) are they doing? There are thousands of things a router can do and without more detail we can only guess.

 

[Givl Reggin]

1. Does the flush trim bit sound like what he is talking about?

A flush trim bit is different - what he wants is a pattern bit like this:
http://wnwoodworkingschool.com/shop...roducts_id=2&zenid=krse51lgfv61br18n9db2npjs3
The larger diameter results in a smoother, cleaner cut and the spiral flutes don't tearout end-grain and figured woods like straight cutters.

 

[tarbellb]

A flush trim bit is different - what he wants is a pattern bit like this:
http://wnwoodworkingschool.com/shop...roducts_id=2&zenid=krse51lgfv61br18n9db2npjs3
The larger diameter results in a smoother, cleaner cut and the spiral flutes don't tearout end-grain and figured woods like straight cutters.

Wow, now that is a nice bit. I have never seen such a nice flush cut/pattern bit like that. I bet its worth every dollar.

 

[djb2]

For a hand-held router, it is most natural to use a top template. For this you need only a template guide mounted to the router base plate.

Harbor Freight sells a brass router template bushing guide set. It's lists for $16, but you can usually get it for about $10 w/ sale+coupon. Guides are semi-consumable: expect to file down the sleeve to match a thin template.

Most template work is done with a straight bit. The cutting edge will ideally be just a little longer than the material thickness. Use a medium-sized bit (e.g. 5/16" with a 1/4" shaft) unless an interior curve is too tight.

 

[DWise]

Take him to the store and let him pick what he wants.

 

[Sal Bandini]

For a hand-held router, it is most natural to use a top template. For this you need only a template guide mounted to the router base plate.

Harbor Freight sells a brass router template bushing guide set. It's lists for $16, but you can usually get it for about $10 w/ sale+coupon. Guides are semi-consumable: expect to file down the sleeve to match a thin template.

Most template work is done with a straight bit. The cutting edge will ideally be just a little longer than the material thickness. Use a medium-sized bit (e.g. 5/16" with a 1/4" shaft) unless an interior curve is too tight.

The problem with template guide is it gives offset, which varies based on the diameter and the size bit you use. In order to use it correctly, you have to account for this offset when you create the template.

OP said for template and duplicating existing parts, so a template bit or flush trim bit is needed.

 

[Kin Creed]

Routers and especially router bits are so versatile they can get a bit complicated.

If you have a Rockler or Woodcraft store nearby that might be a good place to ask about router bits, they are not as busy as the big boxes and WAY more knowledgeable. Plus if you buy something there it gives your dad an excuse to stop in to ask more questions, which for a woodworker is never a bad thing.

When it comes to detailed, technical woodworking gear it's hard to beat these stores.

Otherwise just get a good brand bit from a big box and if it's not exactly what he wants he can always return or exchange. Maybe a gift card would be an option also. Picking just the right router bit can be a pretty tough call for the person doing the woodwork, picking one as a gift is even tougher!

For the record if he's wanting to do template work to duplicate parts my best guess would be a top bearing bit. The bearing rides against a thin (often hardboard) template attached on top of the workpiece. The bottom bearing bits I think of as used to trim laminates overhanging the edge of the workpiece.

Good luck!

 

[slyonedoofy]

Not sure if these are in your budget but it's a lot of bits for a cheap price.

http://www.sears.com/overstock-com-...piece-router-bit-set/p-SPM8965086617?prdNo=11

 

[Squiblez]

If you get the model of his router, you can look up whether it takes both shanks or just 1/4". If he uses it handheld, it's not going to take only 1/2" (unless he's using one bigger than should be used handheld, which is unlikely) so you could go for 1/4" if you can't find out for sure.

I personally would get the 1/2" without knowing for sure. Given the choice, go with a 1/2" shank unless it's a trim router since they only have 1/4" collets. Worst case, you err on the side of caution and might have to return it but it's a simple exchange since you said the store carries both.

For template work I prefer top bearing bits. What material does he work with? I wouldn't just go with a 1" unless that's the material size he uses. If it's 3/4" ply or 1 by then sure. If it's 1/4" ply I would go with at most a 1/2" cutting length. The bearing is going to go up against the template and guide you so unless you plunge down and follow the template blind, this is the best way routing handheld.

If the router table is bigger than the template work being done, the same logic you'd want a bottom bearing bit.

Do you know anything about what they have now? what template guide set are they using? what kind of work (size, shape, material) are they doing? There are thousands of things a router can do and without more detail we can only guess.

I am going to find the router tonight and get a model number to look up for shank size.

He doesnt do a ton of projects. Mostly just stereo installs/sub boxes. always uses MDF but im not sure what thickness.

Thanks for all of the help guys!