Router fence

[JazzBlueRT]

I got my router table all set up and working. I spent a lot time researching the different cuts and learning how to use it.

I set up the fence to the correct distance and am ready to cut.

I go to cut and the left side of the fence blocks the wood from sliding further. Apparently when I tighten down the left side of the fence the face of the fence kicks up like 1/16 inch. I put a plastic putty knife under the left side to level it out, but not a long term solution and I really want to start doing projects with it.

The fence is plastic and the table is a typical mid year 2k $99 router table. The table was a gift so I kind of have to keep the table, plus it works well outside of the fence issue.

Are there any replacement fences which do not cost more than the router?

 

[Jayman17]

Just make a shop made fence. I have one that I made with a dust port and a split face that is adjustable or you can close it completely. I’m sure there are plans all over the internet so you should be able to find a style you like.
Good luck,

Jay

 

[RKA]

The simplest solution is to bolt a block of wood to the existing fence. Cut out a small opening where the router bit will protrude. Two bolts should be on the outside edge of the fence, not near the router bit. Your existing fence will still twist, but this sub fence should remain relatively flat with those two bolts on place. More bolts may cause the wood to twist with your fence.

 

[tarbellb]

Like RKA said

Face your current fence with a suitable piece of plastic or hardwood, make it vertically adjustable to compensate for your OE fence.

Its also a great way to create zero clearance fences.

 

[gungatim]

LGR

 

[JazzBlueRT]

OK, i'm going to show you how to build my "MegaFence" it's mega cheap, mega easy, mega versatile.

scrap MDF. length of your table plus a few inches each side for overhang.

around 7" wide or so. cut a big hole in the middle, then rip it in half.

cut some triangles and glue it together.

for clamps, use cheap whatever's, c-clamps work, I use cheap HF bar clamps, note the slot they slide in.

remember you don't need a router fence parallel to anything since bits are round.

bonus1 if you want a tight sacrifical fence, make a pair and slot the fence for carriage bolts and wing nuts.

bonus2 if you want to do raised panels, make extra tall sacrifical fences as above.

bonus 3 if you want some featherboards, use the tall faces add slots as in pic.

bonus 4 if you want a dust collector, add some more triangle pieces surrounding the router cutout and screw on a dust collector flange.

that's all there is to it.

Nice, thank you. What do the feather boards do?

 

[Dumber than lumber]

Thanks. Going to put a dent in the revenue of router fence sellers.

 

[casmurbax]

The feather boards keep the board pushed down tight to the table and also prevent kick back as you push the wood over the router bit.

 

[Renegade1LI]

Feather boards allow you to keep slight pressure against the work as it moves along the fence, also prevents kick back, gives a safer more consistent cut. I also like to use a feather board in the table T slot as well, really helps keep the board aligned. I made a fence system for my shaper & table saw so they can share accessories, now I have added a power feeder which brings it up a notch in safety & quality. The pic shown is of a shaper but you can do the same for a router table. Also don't forget about adding a clear guard around the bit, you'll be happy you did. You also want the two fence halves to be adjustable so you can keep them tight to the bit & with routers or shapers you really want to have some type of dust collection.

 

[Renegade1LI]

Here are a few more pics, I use this on the shaper but it also fits the router table, I used aluminum T slot tracks for wear resistance and resin coated birch ply for strength and stability. The outer fence slides against the inner base fence, this way I can interchange fences for different applications.