Router Question for the Woodworkers

[Adrien]

So I'm planning to expand my woodworking tools and I want to get a router table setup. The Bosch 1617EVSPK combo kit includes a fixed base as well as a plunger base.

My question is regarding router adjustment when mounted to a table. I have two cost effective options here. One is using the ability of the fixed base to be adjusted from the table top with the included allen key. The other is to purchase a Router Raizer and use it in conjunction with the plunger base.

Is there any advantage to using the Router Raizer with the plunger base over using the fixed base' built in ability to be adjusted from the table top? I hope I'm not missing something obvious here but I just can't seem to wrap my head around it.

Adrien

 

[A_Pmech]

I have the same Bosch router I think. I've always mounted the fixed base directly to the router plate and it works very well. With the open sides of my Freud table, I don't think I've ever used the hex key feature of the router base.

 

[Stuey]

With that Raizer attachment you will likely have to stick your arm under the router table to adjust it. Stick with the Bosch 2-base kit. If you want a better lift system in the future you can always upgrade.

 

[JASTECH]

The RZ200 was clearenced at Grizzly Tool for $48.00 or something. Some liked it but most ********* wood workers don't and rather by the Woodpecker style I think it is, remember it's red and has fine micro adjustments. There is also a digital setup I was looking at a while back. How serious of a woodworker are you or plan to be?

 

[JASTECH]

Woops, forgot "Router Lift FX", much better unit, more accurate and you don't need to crawl underneath to adjust your bit hight. They run about $200. Hope it helped you?

 

[Glacial_Speed]

Back when router manufacturers didn't have any mechanism to adjust above the table the router raizer was a big deal.

But now with most routers being designed with table use in mind, the RR is looking a bit obsolete IMHO.

BTW Bosch sells a under table base for the 1617, which is just the fixed base without the wooden handles, in case you don't feel like bolting and unbolting the fixed router base when you don't want it in the table. Only $53 at amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007VHPFK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[JerseyBoatBuilder]

No wood shop including where I work uses those plunger style bases that I have ever seen.
All fixed base routers attached to a table top by a square cut out plate that sits flush with the table and can be lifted out to change bits.
Gotta change bit depth no problem reach underneath the table unlock then adjust router to desired depth.
Same with our fenced tables.

 

[Rusty Musket]

No wood shop including where I work uses those plunger style bases that I have ever seen.
All fixed base routers attached to a table top by a square cut out plate that sits flush with the table and can be lifted out to change bits.
Gotta change bit depth no problem reach underneath the table unlock then adjust router to desired depth.
Same with our fenced tables.

Good advice above. I have always thought it crazy to spend hundreds of dollars on a router table convenience accessory. You are much better off spending your money on the actual tools. If your router has table friendly features, that's great, but don't make your router choice because of them. I still use 20 year old swiss made Elu routers in my shop. For router table use, I added a hand adjustment knob and removed the plunge return springs.

 

[JerseyBoatBuilder]

Good advice above. I have always thought it crazy to spend hundreds of dollars on a router table convenience accessory. You are much better off spending your money on the actual tools. If your router has table friendly features, that's great, but don't make your router choice because of them. I still use 20 year old swiss made Elu routers in my shop. For router table use, I added a hand adjustment knob and removed the plunge return springs.

Yep plus I think some one makes pre drilled bench top plates for different routers
We make our own at work at though.
We use that method along with an outlet wired to a light/dimmer switch mounted to the side of the table.
Get in to any trouble using the router you can just bump in to the dimmer to kill it

 

[lilscorpion]

Rockler sells a cheaper lift that's similar in design to what you're talking about but and can adjust from the top.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=6396&site=ROCKLER. There are a variety of price ranges of lift setups and some work better than others. I have this version and have a PorterCable router mounted in it full time.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21380&site=ROCKLER. I talked with a lot of wood working guys before I got mine and they all said the same thing (for the most part) that echos the same thing machinists have told me over the years - reducing the machine setup time is the best way to increase productivity and efficiency. This totally applies to a router table setup. If you are having to adjust the router on every cut, doing so from underneath is a killer and you'll feel like you're spending more time adjusting than cutting. If you set it up once and then run a hundred boards, all of the different options aren't much different. More often than not, I do repeat cuts (like breaking the edge of a board with a quarter round bit) or maybe a chamfer. Still the lift was worth the money. I get to spend more of my precious time building and less time setting up. Rockler isn't the only game in town. Check out http://www.ptreeusa.com, http://www.woodcraft.com

 

[cgv69]

I agree with lilscorpion, a dedicated fixed base router in a metal plate with a built in height adjustment mechanism is the way to go.

The PC 7518 is the router to get for this application. I have mine in a Bench Dog Prolift but the Rockler version is much more affordable.

Save the plunge routers for hand held work that requires that type of functionality. For everything else, a D-handle router rules

 

[Zeke]

If it's a good combo deal, get the plunge base for some bench top operations. Tipping a router into a template is not as easy as plunging.

 

[shoot summ]

I've got a similar Bosch router(non EVS), I use the fixed base in the router table, works great. I've used a plunge router in the table, many years ago, it was a PITA.

I've never been able to justify the cost of a router lift, don't get me wrong, I want one, just don't need one. If I used the table everyday for several hours, with multiple set ups, then I would have one.

 

[cashishift]

I agree with lilscorpion, a dedicated fixed base router in a metal plate with a built in height adjustment mechanism is the way to go.

The PC 7518 is the router to get for this application. I have mine in a Bench Dog Prolift but the Rockler version is much more affordable.

Save the plunge routers for hand held work that requires that type of functionality. For everything else, a D-handle router rules

This is what I was going to suggest, however if you are stuck with the Bosch sickness (as i am starting to get.. )

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007VHPFK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

should solve most of your issues.

 

[Adrien]

Thanks for all of the replies--good information. I think Glacial_Speed confirmed my suspicion that the Router Raizer isn't really going to do anything for me if I buy a fixed base router with a native height adjustment mechanism. I think I'll focus my funds on the combo kit and a decent cabinet style table to start; I have been considering the Bench Dog 40-001 as it seems to be highly regarded.

Thanks again,

Adrien

 

[Zeke]

If you did use a router table every day for several hours, you should buy a small shaper.

 

[cashishift]

I've got a similar Bosch router(non EVS), I use the fixed base in the router table, works great. I've used a plunge router in the table, many years ago, it was a PITA.

I've never been able to justify the cost of a router lift, don't get me wrong, I want one, just don't need one. If I used the table everyday for several hours, with multiple set ups, then I would have one.

See my post above.. cheap!

 

[lilscorpion]

If it's a good combo deal, get the plunge base for some bench top operations. Tipping a router into a template is not as easy as plunging.

I agree with this as well. If you'll end up wanting/needing a plunge system for counter top use, get it as a part of a package now. Buying it as a standalone later will cost a bit more. I've been very happy with PorterCable. I run the 3.25hp 7518 in the lift (dedicated) and have a 690, a pair of 895's, and a laminate trimmer and all have worked flawlessly for many-mulitiple hours. BTW, to better illustrate my point, I have two 895's (the small handheld ones) because I wanted the plunge base for my first one later and it only cost me $60 more to get an entire package with another router.

 

[cashishift]

Thanks for all of the replies--good information. I think Glacial_Speed confirmed my suspicion that the Router Raizer isn't really going to do anything for me if I buy a fixed base router with a native height adjustment mechanism. I think I'll focus my funds on the combo kit and a decent cabinet style table to start; I have been considering the Bench Dog 40-001 as it seems to be highly regarded.

Thanks again,

Adrien

Check Rockler for their black friday sales.. they have some router tables on sale that would probably suit future expansion better.

 

[shoot summ]

Thanks for all of the replies--good information. I think Glacial_Speed confirmed my suspicion that the Router Raizer isn't really going to do anything for me if I buy a fixed base router with a native height adjustment mechanism. I think I'll focus my funds on the combo kit and a decent cabinet style table to start; I have been considering the Bench Dog 40-001 as it seems to be highly regarded.

Thanks again,

Adrien

Depends on your available space, I've had several stand alone tables, I don't have much space so now I have the Benchdog cast extension wing for my table saw, I like the smaller foot print, and it has never hindered my use of the table saw.

If you did use a router table every day for several hours, you should buy a small shaper.

Excellent point.

See my post above.. cheap!

That actually came with my router when I bought it used, it is mounted, but I have never used it. It is for fine adjustment only, not major adjustment. Plus I like setting the bit from the side where I can see what is going on.

 

[boiler7904]

I've got the Bosch kit you linked to. I unbolted the wood handles from the fixed base and mounted it to a Woodpeckers phenolic router plate in my homemade router table. I don't use it very often but it works great for the things I do.

http://www.woodpeck.com/tlrphenolicplate.html

Price seems to have gone up quite a bit from when I bought mine a couple of years ago.

I also added a Bosch Colt trim router to my collection for smaller work. Currently debating if I really "need" the new plunge base accessory they have or not.

 

[pendragon1998]

I noticed this amazon review on the model in the OP:

I bought the 1617EVSPK 2-1/4HP bosch combo router some 9 months ago and have logged a lot of hours on the machine. Overall I echo the positive comments that other users have provided re: power, versatility, ease of use, etc. There are two areas where the unit falls down, however. First is the base plate; although it is allegedly centered at factory, if you are doing close tolerance work (eg using a leigh dovetail jig) you will probably need to buy a base center and reset the base plate. This is a pain but at least it is fixable. A far more serious problem is the fact that the router seems to have developed a side to side wobble when used in plunge mode, so that the bit swings a fraction from side to side when plunging, despite my carefully applying pressure equally on both handles. Not a problem for many applications, as the swing is very small, but when close tolerances are a must (eg routing mortises) it is hard to achieve. I cut several dozen floating tenon mortises this weekend using a new spiral upcut bit, and half the mortises were 1/32"-1/16" oversized, meaning I now have a lot more stock in my scrap bin. The unit does not appear to have any way to tighten up the plunge mechanism. This far more serious flaw makes it difficult to use for high end woodworking.

 

[cheechi]

i have this exact router & the instructions specofically say dont use the plunge base with a table.
are you looking for a portable table or something nicer? that is a nice handheld router, better than the dewalt. if you need it for fine woodworking, get a good table, good lift, this motor will be ok but probably good going up to the PC

if you dont want to spend a lot get a straightedge. or if i guess you could get a cheap table with a motor mounted but i wouldn't.

 

[ddawg16]

I have 3 routers.....

I also have the Ryobi table saw that has the router table attachment....it is a sliding side table...lets me use the same rip fence as the saw....hence, I just leave one of the routers attached to it....

One router is a Sears fixed speed that I use fo what I call 'rough work'....

Third router is a variable speed plunge router....Ryobi to be exact...it gets the most use....

 

[skruft]

I have two router tables, one with the same Bosch fixed base router you mention and one with a Porter-Cable and separate speed control. They both work fine. I don't see a big difference.

I have seen plunge routers in tables but see no benefit. It may be that using routers of the type that, say, go up 1/32 for each turn of a dial makes adjustment easier but I don't know. Reaching under the table and turning the fixed base router to adjust it is easy enough. I have the table set up fairly high so that I can adjust it while standing.

I don't know anyone using a lift - seems like a fine idea for someone using a router table constantly for cuts that have to be precise and having to make a lot of adjustments. For me as an amateur, using the router table a few times a week, it is easy enough to either do it by eye or use a height gage of some kind to set the distance above the table and test with scrap. Also many common router table operations do not involve joinery and so don't have to be set up precisely or adjusted a lot.