Router table choice

[dfndr]

First time router table buyer for small garage workshop. Rockler Complete Basic Router Table is on sale so with accessories is less than $200 but not mobile. Others to consider are Bosch MDF enclosed table on sale at HD for $169 and Ryobi router table, only $99 at HD. Problem with those two is that their are bench top units and too tall when put on 39 in +/- work tables. Advice please?

 

[txvwnut]

You say small garage/workshop but do you have a dedicated table saw or a contractor type that folds up. If you have a dedicated table saw I say build an extension wing that is a router table. I did that with mine and for me it works out perfect. The table is at a good working for me and I don’t have to deal with another biggish tool in the shop.

 

[lardy1]

When I use my old Porter-Cable bench top I put something on sawhorses to make a table to clamp it to.

 

[harley jim]

Fitting it to an existing table saw is the way to go for me. Space saving and if done correctly you can use your table saw fence and other attachments with the router. Jmho, Jim

Sent from my SM-A102U using Tapatalk

 

[dfndr]

Thank you for the help. You are giving good advice and are helpful. Here are other factors I’m dealing with. Garage is small but not tiny. Things will work if I make right choices. I’m 73 years old with a spinal fusion that limits lifting. Instead of bench saw, I bought Kreg track saw for safety reasons. If I buy Rockler router table which is non-mobile, I can park it somewhere and use work service. I’d I buy the Bosch or Ryobi bench top tables I’ll have to build some low type of stand to put them on to get usable working height— I think. I can put that setup on casters but still use up space and not useful as other work surface as Bosch weighs 50 pounds and I can’t lift it on or off bench.

Please help some more before I spend the money on a mistake. Maybe I’m just missing something in this picture!

 

[Two Door]

Have you looked at the Rousseau table system? Full height and semi-mobile. They have a folding version which is router only, and another designed for a small benchtop saw with a router option for the wing.

 

[tarbellb]

The Rockler is a solid option in this category, a little pricey but well thought out.

What you really may want to consider is a router lift, considering your back issue.

The lift makes height adjustments easy, all done from above the table, rather then crouching to adjust.

 

[Git]

I think just about everyone starts out with one of those router tables like that Ryobi one you mentioned, but once you get serious about it, you quickly learn it's limitations. The problem is, a 'good' router table can easily pass the $1,000 mark, once you start adding everything up. As with most things in life - how much do you want to spend?

As you noted, the problem with the Ryobi table is the height. You basically need a dedicated work table or stand to mount it on or it will be too high. And, they don't have a very big work surface.

The Rockler table appears to be portable, in that you can collapse the stand and store it somewhere when not in use, but since you mentioned casters, it doesn't sound like you are going to use it like that - so what is your attraction to that setup?

Why not buy or build a 'cart' that would basically take up the same amount of floor space as the Rockler Set Up and you could get some drawer or storage space out of it. As others have noted, it is very helpful to have work surfaces with a similar height

Here is a pretty good example of what I am talking about. Either a dedicated 'stand' or an actual cabinet. Also, there are a lot of 'router cart' plans out there - are you able to build something?

I built my router table out of 2x4's and mdo plywood and then purchased the top. It works grear for what I want but it may not be something you would want

Also, how much money do you want to spend? A dedicated router lift is preferable, but some routers do allow for 'above table' height adjustments that do not require a lift. Here is a link to a pdf file for more info about those types of routers:

https://www.finewoodworking.com/media/RouterTables.pdf

 

[lilredex]

Some things to consider are how often you need it and how big the projects are. I do most of my work with a clamp on board with a router sized hole cut in it...nothing complicated.

Here,

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8219640#post8219640

 

[dfndr]

Thank you again for the detailed suggestions. I'm learning how much I really didn't know! That Rockler that is on sale looks like a reasonable compromise, but it appears that it is NOT collapsible-(Note, Git). So why don't I just get a Bora-Portamate $59 caster set and make it mobile? However, I'm a bit concerned about the four screws that level the plate on the table. They are simple screws in thin, raw MDF. How long before they fail and how to fix? I do like the idea of building a bench as suggested but what table would you suggest that wont cost a bunch more money? That Rockler is less than $200 with the accessory kit. I'm willing to spend more but don't want to go crazy for this first venture. I do believe in "buy right once" and you don't have to buy again soon. Appreciate the help.

 

[Higgins]

If I were to purchase a replacement router table, I would get one where the router is adjustable from the TOP for making adjustments.

Secondly, adding casters to a router cabinet can become an issue if your running big stock thru it, as the cabinet will try and walk across the garage floor! As I clamp my router cabinet to something bigger in the garage.

 

[f121]

I just fixed up my router bench this last week, so got a few thoughts. I use a trend mk2 table because it has an aluminum bed not mdf (stuff gets wet in the UK and mdf is like a sponge and delaminates).

When I'm using it, the bench sits on a workmate, it's not super heavy to move around, and tucks in a corner under a bench when not in use. I don't have any spine issues, so easy to move may be different for you.

I have just upgraded the router that sits under the bench to a trend T11 (dewalt dw625, but with a better fine adjuster), this is a 3000w 1/2" router that just eats wood, previously I had a 1/4" router which would stall easily and made it a very time consuming process. This alps has a 1/4" collet if I want to run smaller bits. There is now a hole in the top of the bench that the fine adjuster drops through, so you can tweak the height by a fraction of a mm. I have removed the micrometer stops for access and removed the springs from the router, so you are only fighting gravity when moving it up.

The adjuster on top makes a big difference, previously I was having to reach underneath and find the adjuster in a really awkward position. If you can afford to, it's definitely easier to have a dedicated router for the bench - it's mildly awkward to remove, and probably 30mins to reassemble the router for plunge work.

While I was at it, I added a magnet to hold the wrench and clips to hold the height adjuster, so they are always to hand.

I've just made 90ft of skirting and architrave with this setup, multiple cuts with multiple bits, and it works really well. Things I would change - add a temporary bit store, a row of holes that bits can drop into while I am changing them. In an ideal world the fence would have a parallel action like my saw bench, where there is a release lever and fine adjuster, rather than pair of clamps, preferably with micrometer adjustment. Not seen any benches with this feature thou.

 

[joe_pinehill1]

I have a Rousseau table for my router and table saw, both are good. Fold up for easy storage, and the fence is accurate.

http://www.rousseauco.com/product-page.html

 

[dfndr]

Thanks for all the help. Based on your advice I invested in a nice Bosch plunge router and Bosch guide. I will play with it on my Kreg ACS table and see where to go from there.