Router Table Recommendations

[Greatwhitewing]

I am considering a routing table setup. I need everything since my current router doesn't work in a lift with an odd power connection.

I have found three options and looking at full table setup for comparison although I may opt for a custom stand to suit my needs better and delete table from order.

MLCS ultimate U-turn table system which comes complete with a 3-1/4 hp motor which is overkill for my needs at $1050

Rockler phenolic with FX lift plus a a Bosch 1617 router for about $870

Kreg table with precision lift and Bosch 1617 router for around $1020

The Kreg seems over priced for what you get. One guy I know said Rockler was living off it's reputation selling **** overpriced (I don't have much experience with them). The MLCS as I said seems to be overkill and probably heaviest.

Thoughts and suggestions welcomed and I thank you in advance

 

[Luciferi]

When I was looking, I looked at jessup and Incra lifts with the bigger pc router. I couldn’t come to a conclusion on a table or where to store it so I never bought one. I was afraid of it ultimately getting left outside and getting ruined.

I also looked at triton routers with their own built in lift system. Just mount it to something and drill a hole for the adjuster. I was thinking about a husky foldable plastic table with router mounting.

 

[Max]

I use a Jet exacta lift for my router in the side table of my contractor saw. I use the fence of the saw as the router fence (with a sacraficial board on it). Works great, except for dust collection. Once I get time, I plan on building a proper two piece fence with dust collection. This new fence will still mount to the saw’s fence. It’s not quite as nice as having a dedicated router table that you can leave setup all the time, but it is much more space effecient with no functional trade-offs.

Max

 

[Stuey]

I ordered a Woodpeckers setup and have been pretty happy with it, although at some point I want to update the base for better dust collection and storage.

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

There is an on going debate about the value of router expensive router table lifts. At those prices you are into the territory of the 3hp Powermatic #26 shaper clones from Grizzly, etc. For a router table, I used the wing of my table saw and a crank handle on my DeWalt 625. BTW the hp numbers on routers are pure cow fertilizer , even my big DeWalt, which is really the excellent Elu, draws 15amps at 110, whereas my #26 clone draws 18amp at 220.

 

[Greatwhitewing]

When I was looking, I looked at jessup and Incra lifts with the bigger pc router. I couldn’t come to a conclusion on a table or where to store it so I never bought one. I was afraid of it ultimately getting left outside and getting ruined.

I also looked at triton routers with their own built in lift system. Just mount it to something and drill a hole for the adjuster. I was thinking about a husky foldable plastic table with router mounting.

Seems as soon as I post something I figure a new way to search and found the Jessum. Not a bad option from what could find, rated very well even the less expensive version but their table packages are pricey.
Using my table saw may work but the wing would have to be kind of complex to allow the table saw fence to work. It's a small Bosch on the gravity rise stand which is a great combo for portability but lacks what the fixed contractor/cabinet saws offer.

I have been impressed with Incra but they are quite expensive too but I am looking again

 

[Greatwhitewing]

I ordered a Woodpeckers setup and have been pretty happy with it, although at some point I want to update the base for better dust collection and storage.

I will take a look at Woodpecker. Thanks

 

[Greatwhitewing]

There is an on going debate about the value of router expensive router table lifts. At those prices you are into the territory of the 3hp Powermatic #26 shaper clones from Grizzly, etc. For a router table, I used the wing of my table saw and a crank handle on my DeWalt 625. BTW the hp numbers on routers are pure cow fertilizer , even my big DeWalt, which is really the excellent Elu, draws 15amps at 110, whereas my #26 clone draws 18amp at 220.

I would really like to get the price down and still have something dependable and accurate enough for my less than fine furniture projects

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

I've never had a problem with height, you will have to use your cut-offs, anyway. I used a 12x12 square of 1/4 phenolic board and made a rather crude crank for my plunge router. The shaper, after I tuned it up is much easier. The router table now has a Made in Mexico Porter Cable 690 in it, and that's a royal pain to adjust. It has a round over bit more less permanently mounted. The PC 690 is one of the B&D made ones and is garbage. For almost the same money you are much better off with the Bosch 1617 kit. Then you can get a crank for the plunge base.

For the router table I used the backside of the table saw's rip fence.

 

[mhejl]

At those prices you are into the territory of the 3hp Powermatic #26 shaper clones from Grizzly, etc.

Shapers spin large shaper-specific cutters really well but are not fast enough for typical router bits.

The 1617 mentioned won't be powerful enough to spin horizontal panel raising router bits (vertical bits ****) - you really do need a 3hp+ motor for those at ~10k rpm. Even lock-miter bits would be a challenge for a 1617-class machine.

The Incra/Woodpeckers sized plates (and lifts) are more common than Rockler and some others. I also really like the JessEm stuff - the Maste-r-Fence and rollers are top notch. I rarely mount the Incra Ultra or Wonder Fence (but do use them on the table saw occasionally).

Phenolic? My expensive large (27x43?) Woodpeckers was far from flat and required extensive shimming. I've made my own with multi-layer MDF glue-ups and laminate and it's worthwhile to just buy a pre-fabbed one and a basic plate, then upgrade to a lift later. The pre-fabbed MDF tables are generally dead flat.

 

[Greatwhitewing]

I am considering a routing table setup. I need everything since my current router doesn't work in a lift with an odd power connection.

I have found three options and looking at full table setup for comparison although I may opt for a custom stand to suit my needs better and delete table from order.

MLCS ultimate U-turn table system which comes complete with a 3-1/4 hp motor which is overkill for my needs at $1050

Rockler phenolic with FX lift plus a a Bosch 1617 router for about $870

Kreg table with precision lift and Bosch 1617 router for around $1020

The Kreg seems over priced for what you get. One guy I know said Rockler was living off it's reputation selling **** overpriced (I don't have much experience with them). The MLCS as I said seems to be overkill and probably heaviest.

Thoughts and suggestions welcomed and I thank you in advance

Well, I went out and looked hard at my table saw and I think I found a way to mount a small 21-7/8x11 doubled up 3/4 plywood panel in the table extension hole. I am looking to mount the Jessum lift with the Bosch router.

Will require a couple holes in the inside wall of the table to accept pins in the wood panel. The holes won't impact the saw so if it doesn't work, nothing lost and a chance to make it the way I wanted. An add on t table saw, inexpensive and small for storage. I'll take pics if it works.

Already made the fixture to locate and drill holes in saw and panel, cut and glued the two 3/4 panels. Tomorrow drill holes, fit pins and test fit.

Last step will be to route and fit lift

 

[rsanter]

Go,right to buying a shaper if you are looking at that high end side of the router table market.
If you have a table saw you can loot at buying an insert you can add to the table saws side table

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

I wouldn't bother with a lift, plunge routers come with the bars and all. Just add a crank.

On woodworking forums consensus on shapers is 3 hp is minimum . This lets the old Delta's out. I've looked under the Deltas, better some one else works on them than me. I think the much simpler Powermatic design is both more ridged and easier to tune up. The #26 clones are basically a 3/4" spindle machines, yeah I know, I have a 1" for my machine. The real problem besides lack of power with the #26 clones is the fence. This is where the pros really talk about when they talk shapers.

BTW, I've used big router bits in mine, they did a nice enough job.

 

[lilredex]

My official router table is seldom used, instead I use clamp ons for my PC and trim router, with a foot switch. They store away easily when not needed.

 

[Duker]

I built one router table using a Jointech (now defunct) phenolic table top and insert as seen in the following pictures:

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I am building a second table using a Bench Dog cast iron router top and the matching Jessem router table insert. I will use another Porter Cable 7518 router in the table.

 

[Verado1250]

Get an aluminum plate from Rockler and a Milwaukee 5625 3.5 hp router, and you won't need a lift. I've been using this setup for over 10 years and it works great. The router has a hole in the base for an included wrench that allows it to be adjusted from a table. Basically, a built in lift. I built a steel version of Norm Abrams router table to mount it to. I took off the handles and it's a dedicated router for the table. In my opinion, the Bosch 1617 is not big enough to properly spin the raised panel bits, without taking numerous shallow cuts to get through it.

 

[Greatwhitewing]

Finished mods, have a little touch up to do but came out okay.
My table saw is the previous model Bosch job site saw on a folding cart. Great saw BTW

Glued up two 3/4 crappy plywood panels, made an inside template and used a 1/2 pattern bit. Not a great job but with some chisel and sandpaper got the plate to fit tight and flush.

Router, as you can see from pics has a weird power strip on body of motor and a track in the two bases. Not a great choice for table use but the motor is strong rated over 2hp. So I have to reach under a lot to start and stop motor but this router in there is probably temporary. Likly get a more appropriate router and make table top insert from better material and use a proper template.
I kept the fixture I made to drill holes in wood and saw so I can do it again.

 

[brianh]

Here is one I made. I like to have a few set up with bits I am using for a particular job instead of swapping them out all the time. The top is 3/4 aluminum.

 

[Renegade1LI]

I have 2 shapers a PM26 which is 3 phase run off a vfd & a jet jws-22cs both with router collets. I got the pm for 400$ & the jet for 100$ & I've routed everything from soft pine to Ipe they work great, cast iron tops & weight of the machine keep vibration down, add a mini stock feeder with a magnetic base & you will be amazed at the results.

 

[jar944]

Old thread revival.

I have a jessem with a 7518.

For cost comparison the shaper its sitting on (with feeder) were about $150 less than the router/lift combo. Is fairness the router was new and the shaper needed new bearings.
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[topcok88]

I’m looking to buy the Incra Router Table Combo #3 but I’ve only been able to find it on Incras website, or carbideprocessors.com, which would be fine, but both places have at least a 15 week lead time. Does anyone have any ideas as to anywhere else that has these in stock? Is the lead time on something like this normal, or is this just because of Covid?

If my question on this post is not allowed, I apologize. Let me know and I’ll take it down.

It’s been that way for years - even before Covid. I have one and waiting nearly 11 weeks but it was worth the wait.

 

[no704]

I am not a woodworker. I get the idea of a router table. I have a hand held plunge router that i have used for hinge pockets etc. what is this lift that everyone keeps referring to? Like a plunge depth??

 

[jar944]

I am not a woodworker. I get the idea of a router table. I have a hand held plunge router that i have used for hinge pockets etc. what is this lift that everyone keeps referring to? Like a plunge depth??

Its a table mounted plate and mechanism that allows the height of the router to be adjusted and locked into place. Typically the adjustment can be made from the top of the table