Router
- Thread starter dw1
- Start date
dnschmidt
Well-known member
Porter-Cable doesn't work well in a router table because the spiral arrangement they use to adjust base height fills up with sawdust and locks up.
The DW625 has been great for 20 years since B&D bought out Elu who invented it.
Hitachi and Bosch make quality items as well. I like plungers but to each his own.
The DW625 has been great for 20 years since B&D bought out Elu who invented it.
Hitachi and Bosch make quality items as well. I like plungers but to each his own.
AffableCurmudgeon
Well-known member
I have a Porter Cable kit. Similar to the link below (mine is 15+ years old so I am not sure if it is the same model number).
Works great! With or without a table. Highly recommend it. Of course if you are not going to be using it a lot, you can look for a cheaper alternative.
http://www.cpooutlets.com/porter-ca...=pcbn693lrpk&gclid=CPjmwNjD29ECFZKAaQod1XkJXg
Works great! With or without a table. Highly recommend it. Of course if you are not going to be using it a lot, you can look for a cheaper alternative.
http://www.cpooutlets.com/porter-ca...=pcbn693lrpk&gclid=CPjmwNjD29ECFZKAaQod1XkJXg
The Porter Cable 690 is a good choice, had mine more than twenty years.
The first thing I did was made a rectangular base, then a table that clamped to the bench. All those small holes in the base are for cutting circles.
That rect. base has never been removed from the router. Most small jobs are done with the router vise mounted and using a foot switch. I also have plunge base for it but never used it, just as easy to screw down the router into the work.
The first thing I did was made a rectangular base, then a table that clamped to the bench. All those small holes in the base are for cutting circles.
That rect. base has never been removed from the router. Most small jobs are done with the router vise mounted and using a foot switch. I also have plunge base for it but never used it, just as easy to screw down the router into the work.
Attachments
dnschmidt
Well-known member
I never said the 690 (and variations like the D-handle model) weren't good routers, after all, I've got 7 of them. All I'm telling you is that the spiral will fill up with sawdust making height adjustment very difficult until you remove it from the table and blow it out. This is particularly a problem with the big 3HP model.
rsanter
Well-known member
Look for a good quality used one on CL, some people won't use them much and when they sell them they will sell everything including the bits, the table....etc
Bob
Bob
4Kings
Well-known member
I have Makita & Porter-Cable routers but my favorite is the Bosch 1617. Buy the kitted version that includes both the fixed and plunge bases for ~$200
MaineGuide
Well-known member
I'll second the suggestion to keep an eye on Craigslist. I've bought a few like new routers from people that used them once or twice and lost interest.
I have been looking on there for about the last month, only one and it looks like its had a tough life from the pics. Thanks for all the replies.
WWheeler
Well-known member
If it's going in a table nothing is better than a TRITON TRA001.
Seriously.
The Triton is a beast that's made to be in a table. 3-1/4 HP to turn even the biggest of bits, and comes with an above the table depth adjustment handle that lets you bring the collet all the way up above the table to make single wrench above the table bit changes super quick and easy (only router I'm aware of that's able to do this). I've ran thousands of board feet on mine and I still get the biggest smile every time I use it over how much of an improvement it is over everything else I've ran.
Before that I've had a Dewalt DW625 and a Bosch 1619 evs, both also excellent routers for table use, but neither holds a candle to the Triton. Not even close.
FWIW, Porter Cable 693 or 893 fixed/plunge kits are excellent all-around use routers, and either is an especially great choice for use in a horizontal router table and/or by hand. Not really one I'd recommend for use inverted in a regular table though, nor would I really recommend any router under 3HP for use upside down in a table.
edit: looked at a few vids trying to find a relatively short one that hi-lites some of the best features of the TRA001 in a table and this one pretty much fits the bill...
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ktr7Ibu1fu4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
The more you know about the TRA001 the less satisfied you will be with having any other router in your table.
Seriously.
The Triton is a beast that's made to be in a table. 3-1/4 HP to turn even the biggest of bits, and comes with an above the table depth adjustment handle that lets you bring the collet all the way up above the table to make single wrench above the table bit changes super quick and easy (only router I'm aware of that's able to do this). I've ran thousands of board feet on mine and I still get the biggest smile every time I use it over how much of an improvement it is over everything else I've ran.
Before that I've had a Dewalt DW625 and a Bosch 1619 evs, both also excellent routers for table use, but neither holds a candle to the Triton. Not even close.
FWIW, Porter Cable 693 or 893 fixed/plunge kits are excellent all-around use routers, and either is an especially great choice for use in a horizontal router table and/or by hand. Not really one I'd recommend for use inverted in a regular table though, nor would I really recommend any router under 3HP for use upside down in a table.
edit: looked at a few vids trying to find a relatively short one that hi-lites some of the best features of the TRA001 in a table and this one pretty much fits the bill...
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ktr7Ibu1fu4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
The more you know about the TRA001 the less satisfied you will be with having any other router in your table.
Last edited:
I guess if I get a fixed/plunge based router, I can mount the fixed base to a table and leave it there and if I take the router off of the table, I can fasten the plunge base to it and use it by hand? and I guess HP wise, bigger is better?
boomer12831
Well-known member
Not sure what your budget is but most of the brands out there have a kit that you can get with a fixed base and also a plunge base. Before you purchase it, price up a second fixed base to leave mounted in the table. It will make it much easier when you want to take the motor out of the table and use it by hand. I have had my Porter-Cable for almost 25 years and it has never let me down. I also have the PC table and it has worked out well also. The newer ones out there are alot fancier than my setup and I would like to look in to the Kreg system but it's around $500.00 for the table without the router. Some day.
WWheeler
Well-known member
I guess it depends on what you want to be able to do on your router table. if you're just doing a roundover/cove/ogee edge on stuff or the occasional dado, then most any router can do it, but when I think of a router table I'm thinking about being able to run everything including/especially ~3-1/2" raised panel bits and for anything like that you really will need a ~3HP variable speed router. Less than that and you won't be happy. Your router will not be happy.
For me, the router in the table stays in the table. It's too big for comfortable hand use anyway.
One exception though was one of my first routers, a Porter cable 690, that I used to use in a horizontal router table that I made and it worked great for that. I bought an extra fixed base that stayed mounted to the horizontal table so the router was easy to remove from it so I could use it by hand when I needed to. I still have that 690 and it's almost 30 years old and going strong. It's what I use these days if/when I need to do a bit of routing by hand.
For me, the router in the table stays in the table. It's too big for comfortable hand use anyway.
One exception though was one of my first routers, a Porter cable 690, that I used to use in a horizontal router table that I made and it worked great for that. I bought an extra fixed base that stayed mounted to the horizontal table so the router was easy to remove from it so I could use it by hand when I needed to. I still have that 690 and it's almost 30 years old and going strong. It's what I use these days if/when I need to do a bit of routing by hand.
Last edited:
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
Routers are addictive. They can be the workhorse of the shop because of their versatility.
I think in all likelihood your first router purchase would be a fixed base or one of the kits like Porter Cable makes with a plunge router base included. Next purchase would be a plunge router for use in a table. Once you have these 2 techniques mastered opportunities will open before your eyes. I have so many routers I can't keep count but they are set up for specific tasks
I have a double router table set up with 2 Hitachi 3 HP routers for cope and stick functions. I have a DeWalt plunge base that I use hand-held, and a Craftsman router set up with a dovetail it for use in the dovetail jig. The set up is consistent and rarely needs to be adjusted. I also have a couple other PC and Craftsman's that I use for other specific functions hand-held.
Some of these were purchased new and some were purchased at auction or on Craig's List. I'm telling you this is a addicting.
I think in all likelihood your first router purchase would be a fixed base or one of the kits like Porter Cable makes with a plunge router base included. Next purchase would be a plunge router for use in a table. Once you have these 2 techniques mastered opportunities will open before your eyes. I have so many routers I can't keep count but they are set up for specific tasks
I have a double router table set up with 2 Hitachi 3 HP routers for cope and stick functions. I have a DeWalt plunge base that I use hand-held, and a Craftsman router set up with a dovetail it for use in the dovetail jig. The set up is consistent and rarely needs to be adjusted. I also have a couple other PC and Craftsman's that I use for other specific functions hand-held.
Some of these were purchased new and some were purchased at auction or on Craig's List. I'm telling you this is a addicting.
JMLangford
Well-known member
The Porter Cable 690 is a great smaller body router for both hand held use and in a table.....I own 5 690's (fixed & plunge) and a DeWalt DW618PK (3 bases)
I've used many 690's in tables with no problems of sawdust causing it to be difficult to adjust......If you mount it to a proper table insert and use the correct collar around the bit AND use dust collection on the fence (and even below) then the amount of sawdust that gets down through the table is negligible.
Go with a router that has both 1/4" and 1/2" collets (horse and a half or larger)
and try to buy most of your bits with 1/2" shanks (a bit more expensive) but you'll avoid breakage of bits that have too large a profile on a 1/4" shank....
I own 2 Woodpecker table inserts with collars (rings) and 1 Woodpecker router lift that fits a 690 motor.......There are many other excellent router lifts out there if you decide to go that route
My double insert router table...
My Marlin Copy Carver with one of my 690 motors mounted....
Couple of Woodpecker brand router table inserts with rings...
.
I've used many 690's in tables with no problems of sawdust causing it to be difficult to adjust......If you mount it to a proper table insert and use the correct collar around the bit AND use dust collection on the fence (and even below) then the amount of sawdust that gets down through the table is negligible.
Go with a router that has both 1/4" and 1/2" collets (horse and a half or larger)
and try to buy most of your bits with 1/2" shanks (a bit more expensive) but you'll avoid breakage of bits that have too large a profile on a 1/4" shank....
I own 2 Woodpecker table inserts with collars (rings) and 1 Woodpecker router lift that fits a 690 motor.......There are many other excellent router lifts out there if you decide to go that route
My double insert router table...
My Marlin Copy Carver with one of my 690 motors mounted....
Couple of Woodpecker brand router table inserts with rings...
.
Last edited:
ez-duzit
Well-known member
You can't go wrong with the Porter-Cable. But I also like my Bosch, Stanley and Rockwell routers. My Bosch has soft-start feature.
Get one with both 1/4" & 1/2" collets.
Get one with both 1/4" & 1/2" collets.
JMLangford
Well-known member
Rimshot fritzgorbach
Member
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2011
- Messages
- 9
I have used the Porter cable 690 for fifteen years or so, mostly table mounted. I have a small shop where I do wood, metal, machines, household repairs, and electronics, hobbies, etc with the kids, so I can't handle a lot of mess. That being said, I do run it with a vacuum cleaner, and clean up afterwords, around the table and mechanism, but ive never experienced a jam due to dawdust.
I have done some joinery, some picture frames, etc, made all the trim for my house and a bunch of misc stuff, and always been happy.
One thing though, had I known more, I would have stepped up to a variable speed model, I think the 890 maybe in Porter Cable. The single speed does limit the size of bits you can practically use with the router, so I could gave potentially done more or better work for a few more dollars.
I think every major manufacturer packs a decent kit with regular and plunge base in a variable speed model as well, and I would recommend that.
Also, a couple of good books with jig and technique ideas. And get the extra base for sure if you are going to use the table. You can install it accurately once and leave it. And use quality bits...the best you can afford for your project. I dumped my 100 or so bit set on a friend Yeats ago, and by one offs as I need them. And stick with half inch shanks whenever possible. Less chatter. And obviously good marking and setup tools.
One more thing...I know CL or Internet specials, or big box are all tempting, but I got mine way back when here at a local Rockler store, and I grab the other supplies there when I can. All the guys I have ever dealt with in a shopping trip to one of those woodworking stores, is a woodworker. They are knowledgeable and happy to answer questions, or just shoot the **** about the craft, and you can learn a ton from them
Probably won't get that from some guy dumping his extra **** on Craigslist, and definitely won't get it at the big box.
I have done some joinery, some picture frames, etc, made all the trim for my house and a bunch of misc stuff, and always been happy.
One thing though, had I known more, I would have stepped up to a variable speed model, I think the 890 maybe in Porter Cable. The single speed does limit the size of bits you can practically use with the router, so I could gave potentially done more or better work for a few more dollars.
I think every major manufacturer packs a decent kit with regular and plunge base in a variable speed model as well, and I would recommend that.
Also, a couple of good books with jig and technique ideas. And get the extra base for sure if you are going to use the table. You can install it accurately once and leave it. And use quality bits...the best you can afford for your project. I dumped my 100 or so bit set on a friend Yeats ago, and by one offs as I need them. And stick with half inch shanks whenever possible. Less chatter. And obviously good marking and setup tools.
One more thing...I know CL or Internet specials, or big box are all tempting, but I got mine way back when here at a local Rockler store, and I grab the other supplies there when I can. All the guys I have ever dealt with in a shopping trip to one of those woodworking stores, is a woodworker. They are knowledgeable and happy to answer questions, or just shoot the **** about the craft, and you can learn a ton from them
Probably won't get that from some guy dumping his extra **** on Craigslist, and definitely won't get it at the big box.
JMLangford
Well-known member
I've used a (HF) router speed control on my 690's and it worked o.k. until I got a DeWalt with variable speed and soft start which I like very much!
http://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html
You can see the speed control mounted on my table....
.
Empty Pockets
Well-known member
IMO, the 690 is fine for the router table application, you can also get a D-handle base and a plunge base that will accept the 690's motor. My favourite for working freehand is the Model 100 (no longer made). It's only 7/8 horse power, and the same diameter as the 690, so the fixed base is interchangeable, yet it's a little lighter than the 690, for single hand use. While the model is discontinued, there are plenty of used motors on the secondary market.
Good luck
Last edited:
JMLangford
Well-known member
+1 for the little model 100 router for light hand work 
like you said it uses the same #1001 PC base as the 690's
I uses to make clear bases for some of my #1001 bases....
.
like you said it uses the same #1001 PC base as the 690'sI uses to make clear bases for some of my #1001 bases....
.
I have a PC 690 too and am concerned about that too. Planning on buying a Kreg table this week. I doubt the level of usage I'd give it will cause me too much trouble.
Figured I'd eventually just add a lift to make the adjustment better. At that point, I'd probably just buy a motor if the price was right and leave it setup permanently.
The 690 is a good machine. I've heard good things about Ridgid too.
I think you can't really go wrong with any of the major brands. I have a Ridgid one from Home Depot and have had no issues with besides one little quirk. For some reason they make their base opening a little wider than a PC one so I had to buy an aftermarket Milescraft base to get router bit bushings.
there are lots of great routers out there (and plenty not so great). hitachi, bosch, PC, triton, even dewalt.
I've had the PC 690 kit with both bases for going on 20 yrs. (actually have 2 of them from a special sale). I keep one in the router table, and the other in the plunge base.
I have never had the spiral grooves for depth adjustment fill up. ever.
keep in mind, some people get into collecting routers like they do hand planes or other tools, you WILL end up having more than one...I stick with PC because they are common and plentiful, aftermarket bushings and things are inexpensive.
I recommend you get one that accepts 1/2" and 1/4" bits. you may start with 1/4", but as you progress, you will see the benefits of the larger bits. and don't skimp on the bits either!
I've had the PC 690 kit with both bases for going on 20 yrs. (actually have 2 of them from a special sale). I keep one in the router table, and the other in the plunge base.
I have never had the spiral grooves for depth adjustment fill up. ever.
keep in mind, some people get into collecting routers like they do hand planes or other tools, you WILL end up having more than one...I stick with PC because they are common and plentiful, aftermarket bushings and things are inexpensive.
I recommend you get one that accepts 1/2" and 1/4" bits. you may start with 1/4", but as you progress, you will see the benefits of the larger bits. and don't skimp on the bits either!
dnschmidt
Well-known member
If you're doing serious router table work then the big boy Milwaukee is the best in my opinion. That's their model 5625-20. 3 1/2 HP of wood killing loveliness.
paranoid56
Well-known member
i would get two lol. leave on on the table and one handheld. removing it from the table *****.
I actually got tired from switching bits from 1/8" round over to flush that i made a custom table with two routers in it lol
I actually got tired from switching bits from 1/8" round over to flush that i made a custom table with two routers in it lol
Empty Pockets
Well-known member
WWheeler
Well-known member
Congrats!! Best router there is for use in a table.
This is very good advice if you want to do be able to do any routing by hand. Many of the features that make the Triton so awesome for table use make it impractical for use by hand. It's too big / too powerful for careful work by hand, and the biggest drawback I can think of would be the dust collection shroud will leave you virtually blind in no time.
Some advice - get a router insert plate that is pre-drilled for your Titan if you haven't ordered one already. The Kreg plate is a great choice, but you will still have to drill out the hole in the plate for the depth adjustment, or at least I had to for mine. It's not hard to do. Seems like they all should but I'm not aware of any pre-drilled plates for Tritons that come with that hole drilled too.
Dust control is a must for a router table. Going without it can severely affect the lifespan of your router, not to mention not very good for you either. You'll want to locate a dust collector hose or adapter that fits it for under the table dust extraction along with above the table attached to your fence. Unlike my previous Dewalt and Bosch routers, the Triton's seemed a bit of an odd size at first, like 1-1/2" and my standard shop vac adapters didn't fit it, I assume because it's Australian design. IIRC I found standard vacuum cleaner extension hose at a vacuum cleaner repair and parts place fit it perfectly for a few $ a foot. Also, if you look at it you'll see there's two screws on the port where you can loosen/remove there and tighten them down if you need to make a slightly larger hose fit, or so I've read. I'd be careful not to over-tighten them in the plastic though.
As far as bits go, most of mine are Whiteside, Freud, and CMT, all of which are great, but I will say that I've picked up a few Yonico I think off of Amazon and surprisingly they have been pretty good also. Not bad at all considering the price.
Last edited:
Congrats!! Best router there is for use in a table.
This is very good advice if you want to do be able to do any routing by hand. Many of the features that make the Triton so awesome for table use make it impractical for use by hand. It's too big / too powerful for careful work by hand, and the biggest drawback I can think of would be the dust collection shroud will leave you virtually blind in no time.
Some advice - get a router insert plate that is pre-drilled for your Titan if you haven't ordered one already. The Kreg plate is a great choice, but you will still have to drill out the hole in the plate for the depth adjustment, or at least I had to for mine. It's not hard to do. Seems like they all should but I'm not aware of any pre-drilled plates for Tritons that come with that hole drilled too.
Dust control is a must for a router table. Going without it can severely affect the lifespan of your router, not to mention not very good for you either. You'll want to locate a dust collector hose or adapter that fits it for under the table dust extraction along with above the table attached to your fence. Unlike my previous Dewalt and Bosch routers, the Triton's seemed a bit of an odd size at first, like 1-1/2" and my standard shop vac adapters didn't fit it, I assume because it's Australian design. IIRC I found standard vacuum cleaner extension hose at a vacuum cleaner repair and parts place fit it perfectly for a few $ a foot. Also, if you look at it you'll see there's two screws on the port where you can loosen/remove there and tighten them down if you need to make a slightly larger hose fit, or so I've read. I'd be careful not to over-tighten them in the plastic though.
As far as bits go, most of mine are Whiteside, Freud, and CMT, all of which are great, but I will say that I've picked up a few Yonico I think off of Amazon and surprisingly they have been pretty good also. Not bad at all considering the price.
Yep, ordered the plate also earlier today. I was thinking about getting a piece of MDF with melamine and have the plate set down into it, stay tuned....
Thanks Again!
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
About bits. OP, don't buy a "starter kit". Two reasons: they are usually cheaply made to keep the kit cost reasonable and 2, half of them will never be used.
My advice, buy one quality bit at a time. The one you need for the job at hand.
I like Freud and Katana, but Whiteside, Amana and CMT are all good. Save your money and put it towards good 1/2" bits. I almost never use 1/4" anymore except for my little trim router.
My advice, buy one quality bit at a time. The one you need for the job at hand.
I like Freud and Katana, but Whiteside, Amana and CMT are all good. Save your money and put it towards good 1/2" bits. I almost never use 1/4" anymore except for my little trim router.
JMLangford
Well-known member
^^^ this ^^^
+1
+1
you'll probably want a 2nd plate, that is if you ever do raised panels. the larger bits require a much larger hole, and a spare plate dedicated to RP bits is a nice to have...I keep mine with a 2nd base permanently attached to it for ease of swapping out.
It is also much cheaper to buy the un-drilled phenolic plates, just center your existing base on it and use it to mark and drill it out yourself if you want to save money. I don't like the universal ones pre-drilled for several different routers...the one I have I ended up filling the unused holes with wood putty.
It is also much cheaper to buy the un-drilled phenolic plates, just center your existing base on it and use it to mark and drill it out yourself if you want to save money. I don't like the universal ones pre-drilled for several different routers...the one I have I ended up filling the unused holes with wood putty.
WWheeler
Well-known member
That's what I used to do, but I much prefer just getting a Kreg plate shown in the video I embedded in my post #13 on this thread that comes predrilled just for your specific router, no extra holes, and it uses their 'Twist-Loc Rings' which lock into a hole in the plate that will easily let you run everything up to 3-1/2" raised panel bits without needing a second plate.
Three lock rings come with the plate and are sold separately in sets of 5 for ~$15 that have different size holes including one that accepts a standard 1-3/16" router guide bushing, I LOVE that - use it all the time, and one blank to make the hole yourself. I haven't used any others but I believe other brands like Woodpeckers & JessEm makes router lock rings based on Kreg's design as well that are supposedly interchangeable.
BTW- I just looked at a newer Triton plate and it looks like it does have the extra hole predrilled for the height adjustment handle. That's a nice addition as mine didn't come with that.
Last edited: