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Running 220v for an AC

RKA

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I'm contemplating installing a mini split system in my garage after receiving a $9300 quote. I have a few questions about the electric run. I haven't done any electrical, so I'm googling to see what's involved and I'm having trouble finding clear answers.

1. I would rather not open up the walls, so my options are EMT or PVC conduit? I'll be running 10/2 (30A).
2. If the above is true, how do I connect the conduit to the panel? Punch through the sheetrock, remove a knockout in the panel and I assume there is a fitting I buy that physically connects the conduit to the panel? Is there another option that is legal? (I'll expand more on this in a minute)
3. How do I get the line outside? Obviously drill a hole in the wall. 90 bend in the conduit and straight out through the hole? I'm assuming my disconnect box would have a knockout in the back? Use some form of connector to anchor the conduit to the box? Or do I need to add a junction box inside the garage, terminate the conduit there and run a short section of conduit through the wall to the disconnect box?
4. Best way to anchor the box to the vinyl siding? It's not flat it's scalloped. I'm assuming I need to buy a light box mount of the appropriate size and screw that down, then screw the disconnect to the light box mount?
5. Disconnect box will be to the side of the outside unit no further than a 6 ft whip will allow (with a U bend). I read somewhere that an electrical outlet needs to be with 25 ft of the disconnect? Is that correct?

Unrelated question:
6. Expanding on #2 above...Looks like I have a 8/3 wire running along the bottom of the sheetrock. This was done by the previous owner in a kitchen remodel. In the pic below it's the larger black wire just above the concrete block (smaller black wire is coax). The only thing in the house that needs this are the double ovens. In the corner below the panel, they just pushed the wire through a hole in the sheetrock and fished it up to the bottom of the panel. At the least it looks very sloppy. On the house side (far off to the right) they punched a hole through the sheetrock and into my basement. In between it's just run along a small interior corner formed where the sheetrock and concrete block meet. How legal is that? If it's not and I wanted to fix it, I would have to disconnect at the box, pull the wire, install conduit, fish the wire through the conduit and reconnect at the box, but because of the way they routed the wire I would need 1-2 ft of extra length to reconnect the wire with conduit. So then what? New wire the entire length?

Pics for reference. Panel is on the left, AC unit would go above the garbage can high up on the wall.

i-LBtRHrf-XL.jpg


Back wall behind where the inside AC unit would go. Disconnect will go here and outside AC unit will be on a wall bracket here. Distance from the hose reel to the electrical outlet on that back patio is about 35 feet. The outlet is just past that dryer vent near the railing.

i-94LqT79-XL.jpg
 
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theoldwizard1

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Hopefully MRB will jump in, as I am NOT a pro.

To do it right, you are probably going to need to cut some sheet rock out around the panel box so you can properly attach the conduit to the box.

If you are using conduit, you are better off with individual conductors instead of "romex". Easier to pull.

They make pre-bent plastic and metal 45° and 90° tubes, but the radius is quite large. The also make 45° and 90° corners. They also make corners with access covers. This also helps when pulling the wire.

When you come through the wall on the outside, they make a special entrance access elbow. The cover comes off so it is easier to pull the wire. Comes in PVC or metal and for different size conduits. All of this is pretty standard stuff and should be carried at HD or Lowes. If you are lucky, they will have a knowledgeable person working in the electrical area that will help you find all of the fittings.

I would try to run the conduit just under the siding. Less noticeable.

As for mounting the disconnect box, it might be easier to cut the vinyl siding to the size of the box, and then mount the box to the sheeting underneath. You may have to put a spacer (wood) behind the box so that there is enough of the box side exposed to connect the conduit.

I don't know what code it for a disconnect, but 25' sounds ridiculous !

I also doubt that the previous owners wiring is "legal".
 
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brewchief

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Mounting the disconnect is easy, just use screws, it will bridge across the ridges in the siding just fine.

Outlet within 25' may or may not be enforced by your code official, as an HVAC tech the shortest cord I carry on my truck is 50' so if it's a little over it's no big deal, the inspectors around here seem to have the same opinion for the most part.

A careful couple of cuts straight down from the panel may create a access panel that can be reinstalled with a couple small pieces of trim.
 

Milton Shaw

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If you run pvc conduit outside use plenty of clips as it sags the first summer and seems to sag more each summer between the clips. So put clips at least every 3 feet or it will look like gray noodles draped along the wall after a year or two.
 
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RKA

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Thanks guys! That gives me a better idea. I'm still a little confused about the entrance access elbow. I think this might be unnecessary if I run the wire directly into the disconnect box. I just have to figure out how to anchor the conduit to the disconnect, but it should be no different than a standard junction box? Once I buy the disconnect I'll have my answer. I looked at the disconnects for my other AC units and the wire is run through the basement and straight out into the disconnect box (don't know why I didn't think to look at them earlier). I think I'm going to size the conduit so it can accomodate both the 10/2 and 8/3 (whenever I get to fixing that).
 

Charles (in GA)

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They make siding accessories such as outside light mountings that you could install to mount the disconnect on. This will give you an attractive looking flat surface to mount the disconnect box to. The disconnect has to be outside per code, accessible to the A/C repairman.

Charles
 
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theoldwizard1

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I'm still a little confused about the entrance access elbow. I think this might be unnecessary if I run the wire directly into the disconnect box.
I guess I was not clear. The entrance access elbow is for where you are going though the outside wall back to the main panel IF you are planning on running the conduit on the outside. If you are going to run the conduit inside the garage, you don't need it.

I just have to figure out how to anchor the conduit to the disconnect, but it should be no different than a standard junction box?
This where you talk to the friendly guy at Home Depot/Lowes. They show exactly what you need to properly make up the connections.
 
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RKA

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Sorry, I can't remember the last time I've run into someone that really knew their stuff in the big box stores. Usually I'm lucky if they can answer "where can I find ____?". So I've learned not to walk in blind.
 

theoldwizard1

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Sorry, I can't remember the last time I've run into someone that really knew their stuff in the big box stores.
There is one guy who does know his electrical stuff.

I did have to show one employee how to take the side off of a single box and make 2 of them into a double !
 

Norcal

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This where you talk to the friendly guy at Home Depot/Lowes. They show exactly what you need to properly make up the connections.

I would be real careful about "advice" from a big box store, at the local HD they "help" the customers by sizing THHN from the 90 degree column of NEC table 310.16.
 

buzz4041

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I would be cautious about entering your panel from outside to the top entry knockouts as this can become a path for water and leaks into the panel. If all possible go with bottom entry.
 
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