I do run one 220 volt appliance with the 3500 watt genset! I have cooked many pots of ramen noodles on the electric stovetop with genset 220 power. A single burner is not that many watts.
When backfeeding with 220 the neutral only carries the difference in amperage between the two legs. When running in 110 mode, the neutral must carry the sum. As such, I am limited to 30 amps of 110 going out of the genset. Can be all on one leg or split, shouldn't matter.
That's fine though since the point is to use a small inverter genset which is generally only available in wattages under 3000.
You should start a new thread. This one is more than 10yrs oldHow would one identify any multi wire circuits? My home was built in 2001. Are multi wire circuits something you find in older homes. I too plan on feeding the house wire system 120v to both legs during a utility power outage, using a TT-30 adapter to a L14-30.
Huh?After rereading the original post I feel that trying to run a 220 panel off a 120 generator is not Half Assed, it is quarter assed.
Maybe I am being something of a snob, but you aren’t sending a boy to do a man’s work, you are sending a toddler.
I've been in plenty of shops that used breakers as switches. Some for 30, 40+ years like that.Thanks guys for telling us about your actual experience doing this. I have the interlock as well but do not see any reason to shut off any more breakers than I have to, these things aren't meant to be used as switches. I just turn off the water heater and hot tub.
I sure do like the honda 2000 inverter set and even better with the parallel setup for 4000 watts. There are inverter sets that are more than 3000 watts but they are very very expensive and heavy.
I guess you don't understand. My power outages are fairly infrequent and usually no longer than a few days. If I wanted to run anything 240v it would be my A/C, and for that I would need a significant sized generator and lots of gas...which is a PITA to store and not always availalble after a hurricane. What I do need is to run two refrigators, some lights which are all led, a few ceiling fans, and our tv. And 3,500 watts is more than enough. And I don't have to worry about trying to balance two different legs but rather just overall power consumption. And when I want to turn on a light it will work anywhere in the house. And I don't want to get up during the night to feed gas into a generator. When you stop and think about my requirement...it makes sense.After rereading the original post I feel that trying to run a 220 panel off a 120 generator is not Half Assed, it is quarter assed.
Maybe I am being something of a snob, but you aren’t sending a boy to do a man’s work, you are sending a toddler.
A 120v generator makes perfect sense for a simplex inexpensive backup. I did exactly this at my wife's grandparents. Just the stuff they need to stay safe in an outage, with a generator that they could handle and at a price point that made sense for them.I guess you don't understand. My power outages are fairly infrequent and usually no longer than a few days. If I wanted to run anything 240v it would be my A/C, and for that I would need a significant sized generator and lots of gas...which is a PITA to store and not always availalble after a hurricane. What I do need is to run two refrigators, some lights which are all led, a few ceiling fans, and our tv. And 3,500 watts is more than enough. And I don't have to worry about trying to balance two different legs but rather just overall power consumption. And when I want to turn on a light it will work anywhere in the house. And I don't want to get up during the night to feed gas into a generator. When you stop and think about my requirement...it makes sense.
umm 3-wire 120v would be hot neutral ground. did you mean 120/240v MWBC? that would be 4-wire not 3-wireSo I have a circuit that's 3-wire, 120V and the electrician put it on a dual pole 20A breaker. Seems like this circuit would be "problematic"?
Normally, as the hots are normally out of phase, it's not possible to overload the neutral. But as soon as the hots are in phase, it'd be possible to overload the shared neutral wire, correct?
(Note, this is an odd configuration, perhaps)
Yes, the latter, there's a 4 wires total (bare copper). I always confuse when you include the ground in the wire count.umm 3-wire 120v would be hot neutral ground. did you mean 120/240v MWBC? that would be 4-wire not 3-wire
If you meant the latter, then the answer to your question is yes, it would be possible to overload the neutral
110 and 220 are voltages of the past.Read the data plate on your genny, they do not produce 110 or 220V.....
For many of us; old habits and terms die hard.110 and 220 are voltages of the past.
120 and 240 have been the voltages since the 1930s after the REA (Rural Electrification Act) during the Great Depression went to bring electricity to farms and rural areas.