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Running a new line inside the wall - photo inside

pnut

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Sep 5, 2006
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I'm running a new 12-2 220v line for my new compressor. I tried to push the yellow romex into the cavity along side the others but it got snagged. I think I need to use fish tape, but never used it before.

How do I run a new line through this wall cavity? If I have to use fish tape, how do I do that?

Here is a pic in the garage attic showing the yellow 12-2 I tried to push in (it got bunched up in the wall, had to pull it out). - these wires run directly down into the basement right at the box.

DSCF1635.jpg
 
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GeorgiaHybrid

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Fish tape is usually used in conduit. If this is straight down the wall and into the basement, you probably need fiberglass fish poles that can be either screwed together or telescoping to run from the basement UP to the attic space.
 
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pnut

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Fish tape is usually used in conduit. If this is straight down the wall and into the basement, you probably need fiberglass fish poles that can be either screwed together or telescoping to run from the basement UP to the attic space.

I can't feed poles from the bottom because the box is 4-6" from the bottom wall plate, and as you can see, the ceiling is angled directly above the hole only a few inches away.

Think I may have luck with tape in the wall? I suppose it can't hurt to try. I'll go get some fish tape.
 

pcmeiners

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If you can't fish it, kill the breaker on one of the cables, disconnect it, attach two pull cords to it, pull it up, pull the old and new cable down with one of the cords. Never understood why so few leave a pull cord for future electrical work, guess it is just to much effort.
 

Sokoloff

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You should be able to get that done. One tip is to maybe put the 12-2 in the middle of the 14-2s (make a "ring" of them and put the new wire in the middle), so that it snags less on the wood splinters.
 
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pnut

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You should be able to get that done. One tip is to maybe put the 12-2 in the middle of the 14-2s (make a "ring" of them and put the new wire in the middle), so that it snags less on the wood splinters.

Thanks for the tip. It should also be challenging due o the insulation, I'm not entirely sure if it is faced or not.
 
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pnut

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If you can't fish it, kill the breaker on one of the cables, disconnect it, attach two pull cords to it, pull it up, pull the old and new cable down with one of the cords. Never understood why so few leave a pull cord for future electrical work, guess it is just to much effort.

OK Fish tape didn't work, it kept getting caught on the insulation. It's on to this one.

I'll kill the main, then pull up two cords, one for the new line, and one for the old one back through. Thanks.

Note to self, be more careful in the attic (my head is bleeding from being poked by a nail pretty good).
 

walrus

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The existing romex should be stapled unless it was fished into that wall
 
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pnut

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The existing romex should be stapled unless it was fished into that wall

Damn.

So what would an electrician do if I were to hire one to pull the line?

I'll try the fiberglass rods tomorrow, but not sure if I can "bend" them into place. I may in fact also drill a new hole since the wires in the existing hole are pretty tight.
 
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MikeYC

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I suggest a "Magnepull" type Device... Google Magnepull and you will get the idea. I made mine out of a old VCR tape degausser ( electromagnet) and some rare earth magnets from the hobby store.....
 

gc427

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Glendale, AZ
Drywall repair is easy - poke some holes, run the wire, then patch.

X2 :beer:

This is the easy way to go and you will have less problems.

Drywall is too easy to patch and you will not damage the insulation inside of your wall.
 
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motofly196

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Is 14-2 wire what your 220v compressor instructions recommend? Just asking, because mine required 8-2 w/ground. It's only a 5hp single stage. Instead of running mine in the wall, I just bend conduit to get it to the compressor, hugging the ceiling. If I didn't point it out, you'd never notice it was there. When I paint the garage someday, the conduit is getting painted too...then you'll never see it!:bounce:
 

rodm1

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If you cut the drywall cut it at a 45° angle front to back. the piece will fit perfectly for re mudding. Add some mud in the seem to holed it to the wall.

DIY wire pull head
 
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pnut

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Is 14-2 wire what your 220v compressor instructions recommend? Just asking, because mine required 8-2 w/ground. It's only a 5hp single stage. Instead of running mine in the wall, I just bend conduit to get it to the compressor, hugging the ceiling. If I didn't point it out, you'd never notice it was there. When I paint the garage someday, the conduit is getting painted too...then you'll never see it!:bounce:


12-2 is what I am installing, and is what is recommended by the manufacturer of my compressor (15A).
 

WinFred

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Dec 6, 2009
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larger gauge wires help compensates for "Locked Rotor" surges/spikes...

give going to a #10 some thought...
 

1Garageman

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If you cut the drywall cut it at a 45° angle front to back. the piece will fit perfectly for re mudding. Add some mud in the seem to holed it to the wall.

DIY wire pull head

That's one hell of a good tip, never thought of that. Maybe if I tell my wife this she'll let me do some updating in our office room! GREAT TIP!:beer:
 

Mattlt

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Another idea is to drop a weight on a string down from the top and catch it on the bottom - fish the string into the opening. Then tie onto the wire you want to fish and pull it up with the string. (Or tie on a heavier cord and pull that through first.) Sometimes a real pain when there's insulation in the wall.

For those of you that are in the northern part of the country, an ice fishing weight is a good thing to have in your tool box. It's basically a lead weight (1-2 ounces?) cast into a spring alligator clip. Clip this onto a mason line to do your "fishing" in walls. Maybe they don't make them out of lead anymore?

Having an assortment of various sizes of small chains is also a good idea for projects like this.
 

Tyrol67

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Rochester, NY
Those fiberglass poles can really bend quote bit. I've done some challenging pulls with them. Not cheap but they've paid for themselves quick.
 

qmt2

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Aug 23, 2009
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Well I am a electrican. I use to have all the wonderful with these types of pulls when I was in resi. Talk about a headache.! What we would use was a 1/4 pvc pipe and shove it down the wall it bends real easy when up against the roof. But that hole looks like it may be to tight to do it that way. The cheapest alternative for fiberglass fish stiks is to go to Blowes and buy chimmeny sweeping poles. They also screw together but are much cheaper then fiberglass stiks.
 

Git

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Do your walls have fire blocks? Horizontal pieces of wood about 1/2 way up to keep the stud bays as acting like chimneys.

If you do have them, and you should unless it is a really old house, your probably going to have to locate the block and then cut a small hole in the drywall so that you can then drill into the block and make a slot so the wire can come down through.

Again, if these are the original wires, they will be stapled near the outlet by code - not much chance your going to be able to pull a wire out and use it to pull a new one in
 

Nostraquedeo

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Do your walls have fire blocks? Horizontal pieces of wood about 1/2 way up to keep the stud bays as acting like chimneys.

If you do have them, and you should unless it is a really old house, your probably going to have to locate the block and then cut a small hole in the drywall so that you can then drill into the block and make a slot so the wire can come down through.

Again, if these are the original wires, they will be stapled near the outlet by code - not much chance your going to be able to pull a wire out and use it to pull a new one in

I was thinking the same thing. Are you sure you are not running into some sort of horizontal member. Maybe check the wall with a stud finder.

I have also used the chimney rods as somebody else suggested.
 
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