Running circuits from 14/4 armoured cable question

[The Cobbler]

the situation ; Commercial space; an octagon box that is fed by a single 15amp breaker that is currently wired to 1 LED fixture with a switch run coming off the octagon box,and a run from the octagon box to the fixture.
Want; add an outlet and a ceiling fan on a fan speed controller . I'm envisioning 3gang , surface mounted box(s) .one houses the existing light switch, additional for the fan controller & 15a receptacle . These boxes are perhaps 10' from the octagon box.
I was in Habitat today & they have a pc of 14/4 plus ground armoured cable that would be long enough . I'm thinking 1 each conductor for the existing light switch, 1 for the receptacle , 1 for the fan ,common neutral & ground . We have our electrician doing the work in a few weeks, but just curious if this would be proper. I like the clean look of 1 cable over several in this particular area .
hope I explained it clearly enough.
thanks all in advance

I think I goofed above. that would be 1 hot to power the outlet, fan, the light and neutral for the outlet

 

[wyliesdiesels]

since youre in canada im not familiar with the cable but in the US we have NM-b 1x/2/2 (where the x is either 4 or 2 as in 14/2/2), which contains 2 hots and 2 neutrals and is for AFCI circuits. if the 14/4 you mention is for the same purpose, then im guessing 2 of those are for neutral. in canada can you phase tape a neutral conductor?

 

[The Cobbler]

this is a red, white, black , blue and bare ground. we can tape a neutral for a hot

 

[Norcal]

this is a red, white, black , blue and bare ground. we can tape a neutral for a hot

The NEC also permits a neutral to be reidentified in a cable assembly. Another option is to use flexible metal conduit, steel or aluminum that way any color can be used, I like that method with evap coolers, for the switch controlling high/low/pump, separate NM cables are a pain.

 

[ycgoat]

In theory it will work; Black and White are power Hot and neutral from source to switches and outlet, White is also spliced in Octagon box for lights/fan neutral. Red and Blue would be switch legs back from switch box to Light and fan. Its been a while since I wired a fan speed control, is that a single switch leg that regulates voltage output?

 

[The Cobbler]

thanks!
The fan controller has ground, hot in and 1 leg to the fan, off, low, med, high. I imagine it is changing voltages

 

[The Cobbler]

I went to Habitat to buy the wire & another guy had the 12' pc in his hand. I lost out, but wait, ended up with a 40' pc for $15 . yesterday they only had the 12' pc out ( for $15)

 

[GJK1981]

You say that only one breaker is being used for these added devices correct?? 1-15 amp 120v. single beaker with 14/4 with ground . In using a combo fan/light switch they have a black wire(power) a red wire(fan) yellow(light) green(ground) at the switch. Now the remaining wire would be your blue or white whichever you want to identify as neutral, and Canada recognizing blue wire for neutral wire nut it to run
going to receptacle. A black wire from power to receptacle, and bare wire bonded to box and existing ground to receptacle ground. At ceiling box you would have a red to fan a black to light a blue or white wire to the blue on the fan for neutral and bare wire to green and yellow or green on fan and done. The one thing is when using these new LED BULBS with particular combo fan/light switches that have the variable speed and dimming slide controls is they will not work well at all causing a strobing effect, and only illuminate when slide for light is all the way up, and still might not work well with the reostat windings or PCB issues that occurs. I hope this helps and it only takes the space of a two gang box not a 3. It requires a double decor type plate when using a decor receptacle. This is the rectangular shaped receptacle and combo switch.