Farmallboy15, what you linked (
https://www.lowes.com/pd/CARLON-Com...H0iV&cjevent=9a78a25b312511e98068016a0a24060d) is smurf tube. Yes that's what you want. You do not want ENT conduit.
I don't know of any old work boxes (with the tabs and no nails) that attach to either conduit (EMT/ENT) or smurf tubes. (for residential stuff)
Just be careful, you are going down a slippery slope... When I met my wife I told her that if I had it my way I would systematically demo and gut one room at a time in her house: gut to studs, rewire, insulate, new drywall, paint, trim, fixtures, etc. She didn't want anything to do with that so I started cutting random holes in walls, etc. In hindsight I was right and living in a torn apart house was hard. (on both of us)
What do you have in your walls currently? As others have said, pulling through proper ENT (conduit) can be a *****. Use lube and go oversize. Smurf tubes are easy --but why not just fish the wire down the wall? You don't want to be in same cavity as other electrical. I believe the nec says low voltage wants to be 2-3" away from 120/240V and try to cross perpendicular when possible. I used to have a low voltage license and did a lot of new office telco/data wiring. Best practice is to stay 6" or more away from 120/240V power and ALWAYS cross at 90 degrees, no long parallel runs (25 feet or more) unless you are 12" away. Most of what I did was finance and trading related. We used to split out PoE runs from non-PoE data runs... but that's getting a little crazy...
After having done two houses (currently on my 3rd whole-home rewire, all to nec 2017), in hindsight --wire is cheap. Don't cut corners. With data always run two drops everywhere, even if you don't need/use (or have room for) both right now, the second drop is always good to have.
Also, not sure how big your home is but you do know that even 5e can do 10GbE over short runs right?? A spool of 5e is stupid cheap and PLENTY fast for anything you could do in a home. I did my house in 6 so I don't blame you for not wanting 5e... I also have two 25U racks and partial 10GbE network at home.
Couple other suggestions: Spend some time looking into the different types of category 5e/6/6a (and 7) wires. Some are fire rated higher (for plenums) and some are not.
Buy two different color spools of wire and two different color keystone jacks. This way when you get your runs done you don't need to be guessing which end goes to which wire.
Don't **** around with 6a. It's a pain in the ***. If you need 6a (for speed) just run glass. If you need 6a for power --run glass into a PoE switch locally. It's much easier. 6a is a pain in the ***. (in my opinion)
Make sure you have the right kind of cable (solid core for long runs) and don't buy the ****** stuff from China. Make sure you have true/proper 24 wire gauge cable. You can do a lot with it --in some cases you can (legally, nec compliant) double up (twist each pair together) so you can run LV power through it.
If you end up going with smurf tubes and new work boxes, buy the big-*** (5-gal bucket) of pull string. The stuff I use is blue. Don't buy the ****** little cans of orange pull string you can get at the big-box stores. I think Lowes sells the good pull string at some stores and usually electrical supply houses will sell pull string without a license or an account. If you do your runs properly, you should be able to stick a shop vac to one end of the smurf tube and it'll **** the pull string right through your whole run. You want the good pull string in the big buckets because the small containers jam up and you can't **** it through a run with a vacuum.
We use low voltage boxes (with no back) so there is technically no enclosure (or the stud cavity is the enclosure). This means we don't have to worry (as much) about box fill and wire counts. It also lets us do things like shove an extra couple feet of wire in the wall for when some idiot in the office trips over a cable and mangles a keystone jack. LV boxes also have lots of places to easily tie off your pull string. If you can, leave your pull string in the smurf tubes (or just generally leave pull string in the stud cavity) so next time it'll be easy. If you don't leave pull string --you'll wish it was there. If you are OCD/obsessive/**** with doubling up cable and leaving pull string --you'll probably never need it.
Last thoughts: get good pliers, crimpers, punch down tool (with good cradle), etc. and don't **** around with trying to terminate flex (stranded) cables. Put everything in (female) keystones and buy the male rj45 cables pre-made online. They are stupid cheap, will come certified, etc. Also remember, solid is solid for a reason. There is a reason why all of our (pigtails, extension cords, appliance cords, etc.) are stranded wire. Copper work hardens so the more you bend it the more it gets brittle and wants to break. With data, running solid for patch cables is a bad idea because as the copper work hardens you can get interference (or resistance), especially if you are doing PoE stuff.
Good luck, happy to answer any questions!
