running from shop to shed

[Ryf]

ok so going to put a 100 amp panel with a 90 amp breaker at the main box fed by 2-2-4-6, I see no issues with this plan, I want to run 2 circuits to my shed, one for lights and "small draw" outlets one for regular outlets etc, I want to run 2 12/2 UF in 3/4" or 1" conduit over, but for some reason I keep thinking your not allowed to do that (something about 2 wires feeding one building)

I don't really want to do a panel, but I really want the lights on their own circuit (might be shared with small chargers etc), as I intend to have an exterior outlet on the shed for inflatables etc, so would like it to be able to draw close to max amps for tools etc. even if I want/need to go into the shed for something.

if I can't do two 12/2, can I do one 12/3 and split it in a square box (without a panel) I would feel more comfortable/happy with 2 separate lines but I don't want to cause issues with codes down the road.

if I have to do a panel, whats the smallest I can go? 10/3 with 30 amp? what about 12/3 with an a/c disconnect?

 

[aandpdan]

Run ONE 12/3 cable in a multi-wire branch circuit. Put your lights/small stuff on one side and planned heavier load receptacles on the other.

Don't forget GFCI's.

You WILL need a disconnect. You could use a DPDT switch, just label it as such.

No ground rods are needed.

On the main panel with the 2-2-4-6, your inspector may have an issue with that. Have you figured out the maximum unbalanced load that might exist on the neutral?

 

[Ryf]

lights and a saw/drill/grinder/etc on one side 120v compressor when in use and a small fridge on the other side. honestly its a 1 man shop and odds are it will be no more than. my welder and oven are 240.. its been ruuning ok on 60amp +20amp lights in the attached. its a hobby shop. I would say the lights and fridge might balance somewhat,

sooo maybe 20-30? is there a calculator for normals? I could easily run on 80 amps imo, dont mind downizing the breaker was just doing what the electrician recommended

 

[pattenp]

The 2-2-4-6 should be okay if purchased as a cable. You are not to have more than one circuit feeding an out building. Run a 120V 20A gfci circuit to the shed. It will only need to be buried 12". You can put the lights and a few outlets on the one circuit.

 

[Ryf]

The 2-2-4-6 should be okay if purchased as a cable. You are not to have more than one circuit feeding an out building. Run a 120V 20A gfci circuit to the shed. It will only need to be buried 12". You can put the lights and a few outlets on the one circuit.

it was purchased as a cable, and i really want the second circuit between inflatables for kids (they require 2 blowers sometimes, would be nice to have the outlets setup) and my tools if I am over there building shelves or etc, if I can use a a/c disconnect or "big red switch" in the 30 amp range as a disconnect, the $25-$40 bucks on that won't bother me. the problem I had is with buying another panel and more breakers etc, just to have lights and some juice for parties available. I'm good with the idea of a disconnect or bigswitch in place of a panel. and thanks for confirming the 2-2-4-6 MHF is good to go.

sounds like 12/3 to a service disconnect and from there to its target boxes.. ty muchly.

 

[pattenp]

This is a good disconnect to use at Lowes or HD.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_71862-296-Q...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D...-QO200TRCP/202353314?N=bm0hZ12ky#.UaFlzrXCaSo

 

[Ryf]

The 2-2-4-6 should be okay if purchased as a cable. You are not to have more than one circuit feeding an out building. Run a 120V 20A gfci circuit to the shed. It will only need to be buried 12". You can put the lights and a few outlets on the one circuit.

hehe, I'm renting a trencher for the main run, so going to do them both at once..no reason to spend on a gfci breaker if I can dig the hole that easy. my yard will be a fun mess when I'm done!

 

[pattenp]

This may have been mentioned before but lay down a strip of marking ribbon 12" above the line. If digging in the future it will help prevent the line from being dug up by accident.

 

[Ryf]

sorry ran off and did that work thing. it hasn't been mentioned but I'm game, thanks for the idea.

 

[pattenp]

Actually it's not an idea, it's a code requirement for direct bury conductors that need to be buried 18" or deeper to have marking ribbon installed at least 12" above the cable.

sorry ran off and did that work thing. it hasn't been mentioned but I'm game, thanks for the idea.

 

[Ryf]

Actually it's not an idea, it's a code requirement for direct bury conductors that need to be buried 18" or deeper to have marking ribbon installed at least 12" above the cable.

ah well, still a neat idea, probably not mentioned because I was putting the mhf and 12/3 in conduit for dig/rock protection. I still like the idea though

 

[theoldwizard1]

This is a good disconnect to use at Lowes or HD.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_71862-296-Q...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D...-QO200TRCP/202353314?N=bm0hZ12ky#.UaFlzrXCaSo

Yep ! Pretty much what I did, except I used a fused disconnect.

10/3 was installed by the previous owner with a 30A breaker at the main panel. I installed the disconnect, with one 15A fuse and one 20A fuse. The 15A circuit feed the lights via 14 gauge wire while the 20A circuit fed the outlets via 12 gauge wire.

 

[Milton Shaw]

Unless the shed is on fire, I would not run to it from the shop. LOL.

 

[Ryf]

Unless the shed is on fire, I would not run to it from the shop. LOL.

think this is some kind of weird joke but I'm lost lol,
assuming it litterally, the shop and shed are literally 10 ft apart (but closer to the flat spot in the yard), why pay for the copper and deal with the voltage drop to run from main. I keep the riding mower, generator, motorcycle (gas powered stuff) in the shed. aka welding bits separate from flammables lol. would be nice to have an outlet for a charger.