Corbin5754
Well-known member
Hi, I want to run a 60 amp sub panel to my outbuilding about 70 ft away from my house (100 amp box) I really only want to run direct burial wiring from house to building, can you tell me what size/type wiring I'll need?
running power to my garage help.
- Thread starter Corbin5754
- Start date
ard
Well-known member
There are 1000 threads on this....
Not to be rude to a newb, but this is very well covered....each week.
If you have done a search, read other posts, AND have a plan, and want people to give you a critique, I bet you will get more responses.
Not to be rude to a newb, but this is very well covered....each week.
If you have done a search, read other posts, AND have a plan, and want people to give you a critique, I bet you will get more responses.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Why do u insist on direct burial?
Conduit is cheap insurance against rocks and future upgrades.
For what u need best bang for the buck is #2 AL MHF.
Dont forget 2 rods and u will need to isolate the neutral bar in the sub which usually means buying a separate ground bar kit.
And yes this topic is covered every week.
Conduit is cheap insurance against rocks and future upgrades.
For what u need best bang for the buck is #2 AL MHF.
Dont forget 2 rods and u will need to isolate the neutral bar in the sub which usually means buying a separate ground bar kit.
And yes this topic is covered every week.
James-W
Well-known member
It certainly does seem that way.
Falcon67
Well-known member
Mobile Home Feeder
And another vote for conduit. Or ditch fill partially with sand and run a warning strip in the ditch. Conduit is probably cheaper.
And another vote for conduit. Or ditch fill partially with sand and run a warning strip in the ditch. Conduit is probably cheaper.
anuccite
Well-known member
Maybe we could actually start using the stickies....
pattenp
Well-known member
#6-3 UF will work for a 60A panel. 6-3 UF is $3+ a foot, Aluminum 2-2-2-4 MHF is about $1.50 a foot plus about $1 a foot for 2" PVC conduit and fittings. In the end it will cost about the same or may be a little less for the #2 MHF with conduit and you'll have capacity up to 90A.
Edit: I should add for the easy to install factor the UF will be the easiest because the only conduit needed is where the wire is exposed to possible damage. MHF needs to be in conduit panel to panel unless you change over to SER at entry to the structure for the inside runs.
Edit: I should add for the easy to install factor the UF will be the easiest because the only conduit needed is where the wire is exposed to possible damage. MHF needs to be in conduit panel to panel unless you change over to SER at entry to the structure for the inside runs.
Last edited:
ard
Well-known member
I built my home in 94, same time as a neghbor down the road.
His builder was a 'cheap as ****' builder, and the neighbor is a history teacher- so ZERO questioning, ZERO oversight.
Neighbor had the electrical main fail. Was run under the driveway. Crew dug up the asphalt drive, found the ground smoking- fixed the cable.
2 months later, phone line dead. "Oh well, I guess we will go cellular"
Just last week, his well died. He paid $4500 for an electrician to run 400 ft of (this time) conduit from house to well. #6.
Not a stick of conduit was used for main, telephone or well line.
Most of the homes in this development are 1990s...I expect to hear more and more of direct bury cable failures. Yes, 20 years is way down the road.
Until you get down the road
His builder was a 'cheap as ****' builder, and the neighbor is a history teacher- so ZERO questioning, ZERO oversight.
Neighbor had the electrical main fail. Was run under the driveway. Crew dug up the asphalt drive, found the ground smoking- fixed the cable.
2 months later, phone line dead. "Oh well, I guess we will go cellular"
Just last week, his well died. He paid $4500 for an electrician to run 400 ft of (this time) conduit from house to well. #6.
Not a stick of conduit was used for main, telephone or well line.
Most of the homes in this development are 1990s...I expect to hear more and more of direct bury cable failures. Yes, 20 years is way down the road.
Until you get down the road
I wouldn't loose any sleep over not using conduit. I rarely use conduit and do not experience many failures unless someone digs into it. There is a lot of direct buried wire around that is 30-40 years old with no issues. When you backfill it is important to make sure there are no sharp rocks within a few inches of the wire. If you have extremely rocky soil then conduit would make sense.
For size of wire a #4 or #2 AL would be fine. Make sure the wire you use is rated for direct burial.
For size of wire a #4 or #2 AL would be fine. Make sure the wire you use is rated for direct burial.
AntonLargiader
Well-known member
I was thinking maybe we wouldn't end up revisiting it if there were a high-quality sticky on it. Lay out the right ways (latest NEC) to do everything from direct-bury single branch up to separate service.
I nominate you to write it.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
I was thinking maybe we wouldn't end up revisiting it if there were a high-quality sticky on it. Lay out the right ways (latest NEC) to do everything from direct-bury single branch up to separate service.
I nominate you to write it.
I have already PMd several mods/admins last week with no response.
There is several stickies i would like to collaborate on with several of the other guys on here including pattenp aceman norcal speedy mm etc...
They include difference between EGCs and grounding electrodes
4-wire subpanel
And typical recommendation for feeder to detached garage/shop with one man and nominal loads/equipment.
But i cant get a response from admins so oh well...