Running speaker wire in garage.

[bmxer883]

Before putting up rough cut lumber walls I wanted to put speaker wire behind it. I planned one speaker in all 4 corners of garage. I wonder if I have to run a separate wire to each speaker or can I run it to one then tap off it to the next one.

Like two left ones on same wire and two right on same? Or will that mess quality up? My garage is 40x48 so would be a lot of wire. Planning on 14/2 wire endless 16 is acceptable?

 

[Youngandfree]

How many speaker outputs does your device have? I'm inclined to run home runs to each location.

 

[inphx]

It will probably work but the amp is expecting a certain speaker impedance to be optimal. Also the front to rear balancing will be lost - but more importantly you are likely leaving an amplifier channel unused - so your speakers are splitting power and you have unused output dedicated to the rear speakers at the the amp.

 

[inphx]

and... while snaking the speaker wire... possibly get a roll of CAT6 networking wire .. you can later add POE security cams up in those corners.

 

[Fav Onefour]

Home run each location. It makes changes and upgrades easier. Who knows, you might run across a killer deal on some low impedance stuff down the road?
It is a good idea to add networking cable at the same time.
It takes a little extra work, but I like to put in wall plates at each location.

 

[MovingAlong]

What does your amp/speakers support? Matching up components makes a difference.

Running two speakers like that will halve or double your load resistance, depending on if you were looking at running them in series or in parallel.

Assuming 8 ohm speakers, you're going to be looking at either 4 ohms (doubling the load on the amp & halving the distance for your wire) or 16 ohms (halving the load on the amp, doubling the distance for your wire).

You can find charts like this one online to help with wire selection.

 

[RMERR]

I'd go for separate runs. Just as Fav Onefour mentioned, I've changed my shop system a couple times. Having the wires in place made it easy.

 

[Glemon]

Make sure you slope the wire 1/4" per foot towards the speakers to meet code and get good electron flow.

 

[The Cobbler]

I wired my shop for 4 speakers ( each corner in the ceiling) . I didn't know which end I was going to put the stereo , other than I knew I was putting it over one of the man doors . I ran a pair from each cut out to each man door . basically a loop from one door to a speaker cut out to the other man door . gave me lots of flexibility... so much that I've not got around to hooking anything sound wise up yet.

 

[tarmy]

Home run each speaker.

I ran an HDMI cable and Cat 6 to each corner as well. They all run back to the main stereo cabinet and a junction box that split off to the house. I use one of the cables for a TV and use the HDMI for the feed from the satellite. I have two garages. You can see speakers up in the corners.

 

[rayra]

and... while snaking the speaker wire... possibly get a roll of CAT6 networking wire .. you can later add POE security cams up in those corners.

Guy doesn't want to buy ~250-300' of speaker wire, he's not likely to spring for a box of Cat6. Even though he should.

Come to think of it, he ought to buy a Cat6 1000' box for <$100 and use IT for speaker wiring as well as runs for wifi extenders, PoE security cameras etc etc. Just need to combine 4 wires (2 pairs) to each pole on the speakers. Electrons won't care. Star topology in his building will use about 300'. Leaving 700' for everything else.

 

[jmiller_2308]

14 gauge for speaker wire would be best but 16 would work as well. I wouldn't attempt to run speakers with the thin gauge that is in a cat6 cable.

Op can do himself a favor and get a roll of speaker cable that has a jacket, is intended for behind the wall installation, and colored wires to ensure you keep things in phase when hooked up. 2 conductors and a star network (home run each speaker) would make for the most flexibility especially when establishing stereo separation. Alternatively use a combination of 4 and 2 conductor wires where you run 4 conductor to the first speaker and use one pair for that speaker, then use the 2nd pair and the 2 conductor to run to a second speaker. Do this for each channel (left/right). The 4/2 solution might allow for less wire but I suspect buying Smaller rolls of 2 different sets of wires might be as expensive, or even more expensive then just buying more 2 conductor.

BTW: have you considered ceiling or in-wall speakers? I used them in my shop and I really like that they are out of the way. You can also get decent versions for generally less than a comparable box speaker. I did also add a in wall sub to pick up some of the base that a lot of ceiling/in-wall speakers tend to be light on. If you want to go nuts pick up a speaker selector to balance the resistance and then put in a whole bunch of speakers inside, outside, zoned, etc.

 

[jblnut]

I ran zero wires to my speakers and purchased a set of 3M Bluetooth enabled ear muffs. They pass my phones ringer and alert noises through so I can hear it if things are noisy. Plus I don’t have the nasty echo of sound bouncing off walls and ceilings.

To answer the actual question though …… run a separate wire to each speaker. It’s not a lot more expensive and really is worth it. I’ve used Cat6 before and it works fine unless you’re an audiophile and have to have things properties because. It’s a shop, just get some wire run and noise in there !!

 

[CraigStu]

Don't they make wireless speakers now?

 

[cgrutt]

If you're running it behind wall I'd recommend using a cl2 or cl3 jacketed wire for fire protection. For audio I'd recommend a full copper stranded wire not CCA or solid core. Don't use CAT6 for audio. You can pick up 250' of 12 GA stranded copper with CL2 jacket for under $100. I'd run full lengths to each location gives you more flexibility if you change your system sometime in the future. I'd also run CAT6 while everything is open.

 

[Copymutt]

Dedicated wire pair for sure. 14 ga. In my situation. Two of these for the rear adjacent to the OH doors.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Is it possible to run to wire across the attic and down than holes in every stud/post ?

I would run a wire to every speaker.

 

[Ilikeike]

Simpler to run individual wires.
Or you need to know your speaker Ohm rating then calculate what Ohms you amp will see, and if it's capable of handling that load. you can fry the amp if too low or high depending of if you ran the speakers in series or parallel.

 

[Snip]

If you're running it behind wall I'd recommend using a cl2 or cl3 jacketed wire for fire protection. For audio I'd recommend a full copper stranded wire not CCA or solid core. Don't use CAT6 for audio. You can pick up 250' of 12 GA stranded copper with CL2 jacket for under $100. I'd run full lengths to each location gives you more flexibility if you change your system sometime in the future. I'd also run CAT6 while everything is open.

This is what I used. Before installing the ceiling I ran 1 set thru the rafters to each speaker, 2 on the north wall, two on the south. All terminate in the same corner ( beverage consuming and planing station) where the receiver and "educational monitor" will be. Shop is 66x40x14, so the 2 long runs were about 85' long. 12g might be a little overkill but we are on GJ arent we, lol. The 12 was a little tight getting into the connection on the back of two of the speakers. My last run to the rear of the shop I added a pull string in the event I needed to add something later.
The electrical inspector was impressed with the fact that I used this wire, said most homeowners would not have gone this route. Most just use any speaker wire. My inspector was very cool and helpful thru the permit process. Very important to keep them happy.
Also consider where internet will come into the building and run all of the Cat6 you think you might need, then add some for later

 

[nadogail]

Before putting up rough cut lumber walls I wanted to put speaker wire behind it. I planned one speaker in all 4 corners of garage. I wonder if I have to run a separate wire to each speaker or can I run it to one then tap off it to the next one.

Like two left ones on same wire and two right on same? Or will that mess quality up? My garage is 40x48 so would be a lot of wire. Planning on 14/2 wire endless 16 is acceptable?

Where is Endless Wire sold? and what is the price of an endless spool of 16 Gauge

 

[Fav Onefour]

I ran four wire in the wall with my last workshop. One run to each side. It was pretty reasonable pricing at the time and easy. The first speaker in line is simply two of the wires spliced off the run. I spooled a little extra behind the first speaker mount location just in case I wanted to do some oddball upgrade down the road.
It's too bad the OP doesn't live in my neck of the woods. I did full network in the house years ago and bought big spools. Probably have a couple hundred feet of 18/2 wire that is just collecting dust. It would do the trick if you don't run monster gear.

 

[slowtwitch73]

Speaker wire? For the 8 track lol?

 

[Beerhippie]

A roll of CAT6 cable for <$100 dollars is NOT CAT6! It will definitely be CCA--Copper Clad Aluminum. CAT6 is specifically pure copper conductor.

But, hey, it's your time and effort... besides, CCA cable will help with that irritatingly high bandwidth and speed from your internet. When it has conductor breaks while pulling it, you'll have an excuse to buy a cable testing tool and chasing down and replacing the bad cables will keep you busy and out of the bars!

 

[Metal-Marc]

I planned one speaker in all 4 corners of garage.

Here's a trick for those running speakers on all four corners:
Alternate between left and right.
This way you have a good stereo seperation pretty much all over the floor, except for a very small spot in the middle where it will be mono.

Left--------------------------------------------------Right
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Right--------------------------------------------------Left

If you're running it behind wall I'd recommend using a cl2 or cl3 jacketed wire for fire protection. For audio I'd recommend a full copper stranded wire not CCA or solid core. Don't use CAT6 for audio.

This is the only way to run speakers behind a wall.

I don't know how many watts OP will be using, and we don't know total lenght, so hard to tell what wire gauge to use. 14? 12?

 

[Jim_No_Garage]

Back in my post HS days my Dad added a pool table in the basement so I paneled the walls, put in a drop ceiling and put some vintage KLH speakers on the wall with an in-wall Stereo L-Pad. The speaker level feed came from my bedroom stereo, 2 stories up, over 4 wire 18GA thermostat wire. You needed to turn up the "master" volume a bit upstairs but it worked! This was soon after CD's came out so you got a full "album" without having to run upstairs and flip a record.

I use 14 GA wire on all my stereos - Amazon basics stuff for point to point outside of the walls. I had a 250' spool of CL-2 speaker wire that I used for ceiling speakers around the house. I think we used the last of it recently.

Cheers

Jim

 

[Fav Onefour]

Speaker wire? For the 8 track lol?

It works fine with light ceiling stuff and it's easy to pull. Might not be best choice for big ol wall bangers.
I picked up a gonzo sized roll when I was doing built in stuff around the house. I hope I'm done with those projects. I have a bunch left over and I hate to scrap it.

 

[rayra]

A roll of CAT6 cable for <$100 dollars is NOT CAT6! It will definitely be CCA--Copper Clad Aluminum. CAT6 is specifically pure copper conductor.

But, hey, it's your time and effort... besides, CCA cable will help with that irritatingly high bandwidth and speed from your internet. When it has conductor breaks while pulling it, you'll have an excuse to buy a cable testing tool and chasing down and replacing the bad cables will keep you busy and out of the bars!

Go piss in your own beer, it will work just fine and what 'pulling' do you imagine is happening in a garage install?

CCA or not, it's Cat6 rated, whether YOU like it or not.

https://www.amazon.com/Big-Ethernet-Unshielded-Twisted-Internet/dp/B0C75CYHW1/?tag=atomicindus08-20

/you pedants and safety marms can complicate and make anything much more expensive than it needs to be

 

[Beerhippie]

Go piss in your own beer, it will work just fine and what 'pulling' do you imagine is happening in a garage install?

CCA or not, it's Cat6 rated, whether YOU like it or not.

https://www.amazon.com/Big-Ethernet-Unshielded-Twisted-Internet/dp/B0C75CYHW1/?tag=atomicindus08-20

/you pedants and safety marms can complicate and make anything much more expensive than it needs to be

You do you.

I'm running a thousand or so feet of CAT6 for a new Point-Of-Sale system at a brewpub. I want to run it once and have it done. I've had CCA cable fail on me in the past and I'm willing to spend twice as much to do it once and do it right. So is my boss, who writes the checks.

Safety "marms" is interesting, even if I have no idea what that means. I'm sure it's meant to be insulting. We get inspected--OSHA, Health, Fire, you name it. Pay to do it right or pay fines. "Run it like a business" means just that--especially when it IS a business.

You might want to "do your research" and like, y'know, actually read the CAT6 standards (Iso / Iec 11801 category 6), where it clearly states "pure copper conductors". Just because some one on Amazon advertises it as something does not mean that is what it is.

 

[dave*99]

I had to look it up…..

Urban dictionary: "Marm - British - an old school teacher, usually a bespectacled virgin ... somewhat stingy, fond of floral prints and granny *******."

 

[Metal-Marc]

Go piss in your own beer, it will work just fine and what 'pulling' do you imagine is happening in a garage install?

/you pedants and safety marms can complicate and make anything much more expensive than it needs to be

Who peed in your Cheerios today?

 

[Doozer75]

Run a 70 volt speaker system.
Chaining multiple speakers won't have an impedance problem.
You can adjust the taps if needed.
I have two 70 volt amplifiers and 14 speakers, hooked up with
phone wire. Never an issue.

-Doozer

 

[Citation]

I was also going to mention the 70v system. Basically if you use conventional 4-16 ohm speakers (8 ohm being the typical) then you should run one pair of wires back to the amp for each speaker. 70v speakers are typically used for building PA systems. The advantage is they can be wired with multiple speakers in parallel. The down side is 70v speakers are far less common (though you can buy transformers that convert the 70v input to 8ohm compatible output.

If direct runs really are a big deal there are wireless options but I would just look around for a good deal on in wall rated speaker wire. 14 ga is great but if you don't plan on cranking the tunes 16 gauge is probably fine.

 

[bmxer883]

Thanks for all the information after posting I thought it definitely doesn't seem right to share wire. So going to run separate and I do plan to buy cl2 or 3 cause it will be in the wall. It may be cca cause it's hard to find just copper and expensive don't wanna spend 200 bucks on speakers

 

[dave*99]

Thanks for all the information after posting I thought it definitely doesn't seem right to share wire. So going to run separate and I do plan to buy cl2 or 3 cause it will be in the wall. It may be cca cause it's hard to find just copper and expensive don't wanna spend 200 bucks on speakers

Given your cost concerns, this is the minimum product I would recommend.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2817

18 gauge copper. 2 conductor is $53 for 250ft.
You can decide if you want 4 home runs from the corners or 4 wire to the first left speaker and 2 wire to the last left speaker etc.

It's possible to share a wire when all the impedances are known. As someone said, if you have an amplifier that can drive 4 ohms and you have (4) speakers that are 8 ohms, you can get away with running 2 wire as you first described.....both left speakers on a 2 wire cable and same for the right. Again, it's the cheapest solution.

You can also put 2 of the same model speaker in series to get, for example 8 ohms using 4 ohm speakers.

If you don't work all this out in your design, then definitely run 4 home runs.

 

[Stuart in MN]

People often tend to overcomplicate speaker wiring...really, most anything including regular old lamp cord will work fine. Don't try to connect multiple speakers to the same run, as mentioned above it will change the impedance seen by your receiver.

 

[dcg9381]

really, most anything including regular old lamp cord will work fine.

Work, yes.
Pass code behind enclosed walls? No.

Run the damn wire for individual speakers. Or design for amplifiers and multi-zone. Those are the two realistic choices IMHO.

 

[dave*99]

Don't try to connect multiple speakers to the same run, as mentioned above it will change the impedance seen by your receiver.

Correct it will change the impedance seen by your receiver....or will it......
This is the part most often misinterpreted...

Consider this: It's your garage. You are using an old stereo receiver from the 70's or 80's, even 90's. You have 4 speakers to hook up. The receiver has 4 pair of speaker terminals. It has an AB switch for the speakers. But it only has 2 amplifiers inside.
You hook your 8 ohm front speaker pair to A and your rear pair to B. You set the speaker selector to A+B. The internal amp sees 4 ohms. You worked so hard to run 4 cables only to have the speaker selector switch parallel them up anyway.

Here is the back panel from an Onkyo TX-2500, one of the best receivers I owned. Look carefully at the words under the speaker terminals. TOTAL IMP: MORE THAN 4 OHMS. The internal amp sees those speakers in parallel just as if you did that on the speaker cables in the garage. The nomenclature on this panel warns you not to load either the L or R channel below 4 OHMS.

If you want to always run all 4 speakers, and have no intention of selecting between A and B, you can safely put a 4 OHM load on L & R with a single left and single right connection.




I once had a receiver where the speaker selector put A and B in series. So if you had only a single pair of speakers connected to A, and you set the selector to A+B, you got no sound.

FWIW, every speaker in my house has a home run of 12ga CL2 rated speaker wire.