Running wire through a wall to a covered area outside...

[CarCrazyRDM]

I'm currently wiring up my 24x36 detached garage. I have an 8' x 12' lean to on the back of the building that I want to put a light in/under. There are probably many ways to do this so I am open to hearing all suggestions but ultimately I just want it to look clean and meet code.

Can I simply just drill a hole in the back wall for the wire to pass through and then seal it up? Or do I need a box on the inside of the wall and then pass through the back of it and out? Or some other method?

Once the wire passes outside is it required to be in conduit up to the light fixture?

If it matters I plan to mount the light on the bottom of the joists and not to the back wall.

Thanks for any input,
Ryan


Here is the outside:



And the inside...

 

[sst1]

I don't see power in the garage, so I am wondering where you are getting the cable you are talking about. But generally romex cable would run to the wall, drill through, mount a box on the outside, and run conduit from the box to the light fixture.

 

[CarCrazyRDM]

I'm in the process of wiring now...this is an old pic. There are 4 receptacles and a switch panel currently wired on the back wall.

 

[CarCrazyRDM]

And I guess I just don't understand the purpose of a junction box on the outside if all I am going to do is pass wire through it with no splicing. Assuming it is OK to connect my power wire to the wires of the light inside the light fixture (likely flush mount fluorescent fixture). Unless it's only purpose then is solely to allow me to attach conduit to it.

 

[bww_mnm]

You can't do Romex on outside, so box on outside will be transition from inside Romex to conduit outside.

 

[Hawk]

The real purpose of the box is to protect the wiring connections.

 

[bww_mnm]

 

[Git]

disclaimer - I am not an electrician

You are probably going to need some sort of conduit - emt, liquid tight, pvc or what ever. From what I understand, 'technically' you are not supposed to use romex in a conduit because it is not rated for wet locations and the inside of the conduit can get moisture from condensation and the paper can wick up the moisture and cause problems. With that said, there are a lot of people who do it

Probably a box on the inside where you would transition from romex to THHN and then through some conduit to a wet location box

Here is an example on youtube - some electricians were making fun of them for using romex in a conduit on another forum

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20825310,00.html

 

[pattenp]

Just use one continuous piece of UF from inside to outside if you don't want to mess with conduit. If running along side rafters it's ok.

 

[CarCrazyRDM]

Thanks for the info guys. Sounds like I need to go pick up another junction box.

 

[rlitman]

You can't do Romex on outside...

No, but you can do UF on the inside. UF is basically Romex, but is sunlight and weather resistant.

 

[sberry]

You don't need a box on the wall or outdoor wire up under the roof. Mount a box to mount the fixture to.
This is all covered, not underground, not wet, not in the sun and in the rafters.'

 

[roscoe2000]

For the inside section I would use romex with a junction box at a convenient location for the outside run. I would also put a light switch inside by the door. The junction bow would be in place in case you need additional (future) drops off of that circuit and allow a access to the branch for the light and provide a tie in point for the switch. Out side I would bump the romax up to UF rated for outside.

 

[CarCrazyRDM]

For the inside section I would use romex with a junction box at a convenient location for the outside run. I would also put a light switch inside by the door. The junction bow would be in place in case you need additional (future) drops off of that circuit and allow a access to the branch for the light and provide a tie in point for the switch. Out side I would bump the romax up to UF rated for outside.

Yeah, this sounds like my best bet. And I've already got a switch in place, two actually...one for the outside light and another for a possible future dedicated workbench light.

Am I understanding correctly that if I use UF rated wire I won't need to run it inside conduit? I can just attach it directly to my rafters and then attach it to my light with a wire clamp and make the connection inside the fixture?

 

[pattenp]

Am I understanding correctly that if I use UF rated wire I won't need to run it inside conduit? I can just attach it directly to my rafters and then attach it to my light with a wire clamp and make the connection inside the fixture?

Correct.

 

[CarCrazyRDM]

Thanks pattenp.

 

[94EG8]

Is Teck90 a thing in the US? You can run Teck cable just about anywhere here in Canada. If it's available and code legal I'd run NM cable to a junction box on the outside wall and go from there to the fixture.

 

[tfi racing]

Threaded rigid conduit with explosion proof gland fittings to an intrinsically safe explosion proof fixture with the appropriate #10 conductors is the only acceptable solution,of course,that work must be done by a crew of three union trained journeyman supervised and vetted by a two man safety/supervisory team.Anything less will result in a certain fiery death to all within a half mile radius.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Is Teck90 a thing in the US? You can run Teck cable just about anywhere here in Canada. If it's available and code legal I'd run NM cable to a junction box on the outside wall and go from there to the fixture.

No TECK90 in the states...

 

[pattenp]

No TECK90 in the states...

I believe the Southwire Armorlite® Type MC PVC Jacketed Cable is the same thing as the Teck90, but I may be wrong. Haven't compared the two *** for tat.

 

[Git]

I had to look up this Tek90 cable - Holy cow, wouldn't it be easier/cheaper to just buy some liquid tite and run THHN or something similar through it?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I had to look up this Tek90 cable - Holy cow, wouldn't it be easier/cheaper to just buy some liquid tite and run THHN or something similar through it?

Yeah that stuff is a bit overkill

 

[94EG8]

I had to look up this Tek90 cable - Holy cow, wouldn't it be easier/cheaper to just buy some liquid tite and run THHN or something similar through it?

It's only about $1/foot up here in the great white north for 14/3 (I've never seen 2 conductor Teck) It's nice to work with, it's rated for dry locations, wet locations, direct burial, can be run exposed, etc. If you were doing a long run I could see Liquidtite being cheaper, but for a short run Teck is nice, especially since around here you have to buy both liquidtite and THHN wire by the roll. The only thing that does **** about Teck is the proper Teck connectors are about $10 a piece for 14/3 Teck cable.

 

[CarCrazyRDM]

I ended up putting a junction box inside the wall, connecting UF cable to the end of my Romex and then running it through the wall and on to my light fixture. This kept it looking clean on the inside and outside. The only thing left to do now on that run of cable is to seal up around the hole where the UF passes through with some caulk.