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Rust Bullet Comments

glentre

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2016
Messages
909
Location
Gloucester, Virginia
I have half of my Rust Bullet floor finished and am very happy with it so far. I didn't want to assemble my new lift over the finished floor so will paint that section as soon as the lift is delivered sometime next week.

The floor has three coats of gray and two of clear. I wanted to comment on the clear coat. I stirred the can of clear before doing the first coat but did not realize the anti-slip grit had settled in the bottom to a hard layer which felt like the bottom of the can. Therefore, I ended up with little to no grit in my first clear coat.

While stirring for the second coat, I realized what had happened and made sure the hard grit layer was broken up and stirred completely into the mix. Now I had too much grit for the quantity of coating left in the can. Pouring it into the roller pan, the grit immediately fell to the bottom and it was difficult to keep it in suspension so it had to be stirred repeatedly.

The end result is just what I wanted as I now have a beautiful floor with just enough grit to give it an anti-slip surface. I think if I had mixed the grit into both coats of clear, I would have had far too much grit on the floor. As it is now, if I drag any heavy metal tools or benches over the floor, some of the coating on top of the grit particles gets shaved off leaving the dark color of the grit exposed.

When I do the second half of the floor, I will try to duplicate what was done on the first section as I feel the mix as sold by Rust Bullet has too much grit in it, at least to my liking. Even if I had completely mixed the grit into the first clear coat, I think it still would have been too much for my floor. Just my opinion and a personal observation. Also as a caution to those using the clear coat that mixing in the grit can change the look and feel of your floor if you are not careful.

Glen
 
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FlaJunkie

Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2008
Messages
6
I am considering using this product on my new home garage floor. I have a three car garage, been poured about 5 months and has a few small cracks in it. Nothing in it and it has been power washed.

My question to you is did you consider using flakes instead of grit? Or can it be done with Rust Bullet?
 

Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
I have half of my Rust Bullet floor finished and am very happy with it so far. I didn't want to assemble my new lift over the finished floor so will paint that section as soon as the lift is delivered sometime next week.

The floor has three coats of gray and two of clear. I wanted to comment on the clear coat. I stirred the can of clear before doing the first coat but did not realize the anti-slip grit had settled in the bottom to a hard layer which felt like the bottom of the can. Therefore, I ended up with little to no grit in my first clear coat.

While stirring for the second coat, I realized what had happened and made sure the hard grit layer was broken up and stirred completely into the mix. Now I had too much grit for the quantity of coating left in the can. Pouring it into the roller pan, the grit immediately fell to the bottom and it was difficult to keep it in suspension so it had to be stirred repeatedly.

The end result is just what I wanted as I now have a beautiful floor with just enough grit to give it an anti-slip surface. I think if I had mixed the grit into both coats of clear, I would have had far too much grit on the floor. As it is now, if I drag any heavy metal tools or benches over the floor, some of the coating on top of the grit particles gets shaved off leaving the dark color of the grit exposed.

When I do the second half of the floor, I will try to duplicate what was done on the first section as I feel the mix as sold by Rust Bullet has too much grit in it, at least to my liking. Even if I had completely mixed the grit into the first clear coat, I think it still would have been too much for my floor. Just my opinion and a personal observation. Also as a caution to those using the clear coat that mixing in the grit can change the look and feel of your floor if you are not careful.

Glen

Great feedback. Do you have pics?
 
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G

glentre

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2016
Messages
909
Location
Gloucester, Virginia
Justin,

Tried to upload some photos but there was an error. Something about a security token missing. Will try again tomorrow.

Glen
 

ChaseDE

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 25, 2016
Messages
2,178
Location
Delaware
OP
G

glentre

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2016
Messages
909
Location
Gloucester, Virginia
Justin,

Attached some photos of my floor. Tried for two days to upload photos with no luck. Today, they all loaded fine....didn't do anything different.

Glen
 

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glentre

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2016
Messages
909
Location
Gloucester, Virginia
1949,

Yes, the fumes are bad and you don't want to be near the paint while working. The mask that Justin sells with the Rust Bullet is quite effective in keeping the fumes out of your nose and lungs. I'd recommend getting one.

Glen
 

Philly777

Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
8
I have half of my Rust Bullet floor finished and am very happy with it so far. I didn't want to assemble my new lift over the finished floor so will paint that section as soon as the lift is delivered sometime next week.

The floor has three coats of gray and two of clear. I wanted to comment on the clear coat. I stirred the can of clear before doing the first coat but did not realize the anti-slip grit had settled in the bottom to a hard layer which felt like the bottom of the can. Therefore, I ended up with little to no grit in my first clear coat.

While stirring for the second coat, I realized what had happened and made sure the hard grit layer was broken up and stirred completely into the mix. Now I had too much grit for the quantity of coating left in the can. Pouring it into the roller pan, the grit immediately fell to the bottom and it was difficult to keep it in suspension so it had to be stirred repeatedly.

The end result is just what I wanted as I now have a beautiful floor with just enough grit to give it an anti-slip surface. I think if I had mixed the grit into both coats of clear, I would have had far too much grit on the floor. As it is now, if I drag any heavy metal tools or benches over the floor, some of the coating on top of the grit particles gets shaved off leaving the dark color of the grit exposed.

When I do the second half of the floor, I will try to duplicate what was done on the first section as I feel the mix as sold by Rust Bullet has too much grit in it, at least to my liking. Even if I had completely mixed the grit into the first clear coat, I think it still would have been too much for my floor. Just my opinion and a personal observation. Also as a caution to those using the clear coat that mixing in the grit can change the look and feel of your floor if you are not careful.

Glen

Hi, Could you please let me know what floor prep did you use. Thank you!
 
OP
G

glentre

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2016
Messages
909
Location
Gloucester, Virginia
Philly777

Welcome to Garage Journal. The beauty of Rust Bullet is that the floor prep requirements are much less than many of the other options. However, how much prep work you need depends upon the condition of your floor to start with. Mine was a new slab which was specified to have a finish recommended by Rust Bullet. All I did was power wash, wait a few days for it to dry, vacuum up any remaining dust and trash and then paint. On an old cracked and greasy floor, you may have to grind or acid etch. I suggest you go on line to the Rust Bullet site to review all the installation recommendations. If you have questions after that, call or email Justin Krauss (contact info in this thread). He is super helpful and will guide you through what you need to do.

Glen
 

Rockcam

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 16, 2010
Messages
256
Location
Grand Rapids
Your grey wall color seems to match perfectly with Rust Bullet - what is the paint manufacturer and name/code?

Looks amazing.
 

Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
Philly777

Welcome to Garage Journal. The beauty of Rust Bullet is that the floor prep requirements are much less than many of the other options. However, how much prep work you need depends upon the condition of your floor to start with. Mine was a new slab which was specified to have a finish recommended by Rust Bullet. All I did was power wash, wait a few days for it to dry, vacuum up any remaining dust and trash and then paint. On an old cracked and greasy floor, you may have to grind or acid etch. I suggest you go on line to the Rust Bullet site to review all the installation recommendations. If you have questions after that, call or email Justin Krauss (contact info in this thread). He is super helpful and will guide you through what you need to do.

Glen

:bowdown: Thank you!
 

Philly777

Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
8
Justin,

Attached some photos of my floor. Tried for two days to upload photos with no luck. Today, they all loaded fine....didn't do anything different.

Glen

Hi, Could you please let me know if you've if any difference in color noticeable between 2 parts of the garage and how long did you wait to do the 2nd half? Thank you!
 

polizei1

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2017
Messages
243
Location
Cinci, OH
Here's the link to the application spec sheet:

https://www.rustbullet.com/download...ullet_for_concrete_application_guidelines.pdf

I don't see anything in there in regards to new concrete. What do I tell my builder? No sealer, no coating, smooth finish? I'll be applying the rust bullet after the 30-day cure time but before I move into the house, so the concrete will be new, and fresh with no contaminants.

I don't want to have to grind or acid etch before applying the rust bullet.
 

Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
Here's the link to the application spec sheet:

https://www.rustbullet.com/download...ullet_for_concrete_application_guidelines.pdf

I don't see anything in there in regards to new concrete. What do I tell my builder? No sealer, no coating, smooth finish? I'll be applying the rust bullet after the 30-day cure time but before I move into the house, so the concrete will be new, and fresh with no contaminants.

I don't want to have to grind or acid etch before applying the rust bullet.

Good morning. At least 30 days. Perform a moisture test.

Tell your builder: No cure agent, no sealer. You want the floor to feel slightly rough to the touch. The smoother they make it the more likely some prep will be required.

Once finished 1/4 cup of water should penetrate quickly or you will need additional prep
 

polizei1

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2017
Messages
243
Location
Cinci, OH
Good morning. At least 30 days. Perform a moisture test.

Tell your builder: No cure agent, no sealer. You want the floor to feel slightly rough to the touch. The smoother they make it the more likely some prep will be required.

Once finished 1/4 cup of water should penetrate quickly or you will need additional prep

Thanks Justin, I'll be in touch when I'm ready to order.
 
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