Rust Bullet Floor

[Overhaulin63]

I researched and tested some various flooring finishes when I stumbled on to the Rust Bullet product from my favorite speed shop, Summit Racing. Summit carried the automotive version but also the Rust Bullet Concrete. The standard concrete Rust Bullet has an aluminum color to it and looks great with the clear coat and this stuff is as durable as it gets. I opted to order one of their custom colors to better reflect the lighting and make it easier to find anything you drop on the floor vs. decorative color flecs.

Great stuff!

 

[Hivolts]

Oh nice! More pics please...

 

[bullnerd]

Wow, very nice.

I am a little confused though. Did you buy the auto version or the concrete version?

What color?

How did you do with the roller marks?

 

[Overhaulin63]

Thanks guys!

I used the RB concrete for my base with a custom color top coat. I have some heavy vehicles so I used their commercial recommendation of 4 coats. Three coats of their regular concrete and one custom top coat color light grey or RAL7047. If I did it again I would recommend two coats of regular and two coast of the top color. It still covered very well but I think one more coat of color would made it even better. Sorry I keep forgetting this is just a garage, but you always want to do the best you can do. Roller marks. Use the recommended 3/8 nap and just use one hand to roll it back and forth, its enough pressure, and roll it in a W pattern. Take your time. A slow pace works great and a fast will leave marks that even the top coat cant hide. I have some but its still looks good. I also used silica media, no more than 4 ounces per gallon, in the top coat for anti-skid. I would also recommend you mix the silica with the RB product in one gallon containers at a time. To much silica in the 5 gal container will just sink to the bottom and you'll have fun with it on the roller.

Very important to follow the humidity and temp guidelines and if you're doing a large area make sure you have someone to help you so you get the proceeding coats down in ample time. I did it by myself and it took 3 to 4 hours per coat... going slow!

 

[Overhaulin63]

I also painted the block wall with two coats; one RB standard and one custom color light grey. The 3/8 nap roller also works well for painting the block.

 

[Garage Flooring]

We have not had anybody use the light gray on concrete yet. Would you update this thread in a few months and let us know?

 

[Overhaulin63]

Sure.

 

[bullnerd]

So this is lighter than the standard base coat rust bullet for concrete?

I really like that!

 

[Garage Flooring]

Yeah you still need to do two coats of the standard first. I can't find any abrasion testing or chemical testing on it. Really curious to see how it does
For him long term


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[Overhaulin63]

Yes, the light grey is much lighter than the standard concrete color. I did some testing on my own before I purchased it with various garage chemicals like gas, oil, brake cleaner and even MEK and was amazed that I could not even find a stain where I applied these chemicals. I have already drug some heavy vehicle on wheel dollies and I had one caster lock up and ended up dragging it across the floor with no issues at all. I love this stuff!

If you go to Rust Bullets site you can see the Tabor abrasion testing that they've done. The light grey is just like their other Color Shell products its just that this is the color that I wanted. Originally I was going to see if I could make my own color by mixing their other colors but they did not recommend.

 

[Perfectstranger]

Sure looks nice, great job!!

 

[Overhaulin63]

Thanks!!

If you're not sure about you're application or the product, do what I did. Go buy a pint of the regular concrete product and test it for the chemicals. Cheap investment when I considered the overall cost.

I am pretty sure the new color is only available in larger quantities, at least one gallon. You can get an idea of how durable the product is and see its a simple one step application if you have a clean unsealed floor. My understanding is if it has been sealed just remove the sealer and any oil stains, simple green works great for oil spots, and you're ready to apply at a fraction of it would cost to have a professional do it for you. While you can't test it for true abrasion you can get an idea how durable this product is to some pretty harsh chemicals.

I am not an expert and I certainly don't do this for a living, I'd be broke, but I will be happy to share any information or experiences that I've had with the product.

 

[bullnerd]

Thanks for the info.

I really like the lighter gray.

 

[Overhaulin63]

Thanks... if you decide to use the Rust Bullet let me know if I can be of any support.

 

[Harms Inc.]

I am considering rust bullet for my new shop. I had a bad experience using an acid stain followed by a clear coat of TRAZ 25 (which was a miserable failure) So, I used a Blue Bear Soy based stripper and stripped off the clear coat (giant mess and hassle) and am back to a clean bare floor with an acid stain. I was considering a clear/invisible densifier but the stain isn't exactly what I expected so a solid colored covering may be an option.

If I go with Rust Bullet I understand that you need to apply in a low humidity situation. The problem is that in the fall our humidity here in Spokane Washington varies from 50-85% pretty much all winter. How does one apply in this situation?

 

[PaulKTM350]

I used the Rust Bullet on my new floor and I live in the SE with high humidity nearing all the time. I was kind of lucky that the days I did the coatings was under 50% but what really is the issue is the working time goes down with higher humidity. While I did not have to paint like my hair was on fire I did have to move with purpose. At over 75% you will need to hustle more but it should be ok. You may get some roller marks in this high humidity setting but use the correct "W" rolling pattern, 2 or 3 coats and you will be good. Temperature comes into play here also, high temp and humidity would be a tuff install.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I am considering rust bullet for my new shop. I had a bad experience using an acid stain followed by a clear coat of TRAZ 25 (which was a miserable failure) So, I used a Blue Bear Soy based stripper and stripped off the clear coat (giant mess and hassle) and am back to a clean bare floor with an acid stain. I was considering a clear/invisible densifier but the stain isn't exactly what I expected so a solid colored covering may be an option.

If I go with Rust Bullet I understand that you need to apply in a low humidity situation. The problem is that in the fall our humidity here in Spokane Washington varies from 50-85% pretty much all winter. How does one apply in this situation?

The manufacturer is now saying you can install up to 90%. I find working with it above 75% to be more difficult, but do not have an issue with humidity going up after its down

 

[OzJustin]

I'm considering Rust Bullet Concrete at the moment and like the lighter colours. Thanks for sharing your experience.