Rust Bullet garage floor coating experience

[boricuastock]

Hi All,

I recently completed my garage floor coating with Rust bullet. A big thanks goes to Justin at Garage Flooring llc for the encouragement and guidance. I had been considering purchasing epoxy for a few months but then I saw the offer for rust bullet and I jumped on it. Just as a note I have a 250 sq. ft. 1 car garage. My house was built in the 50s and I have no idea when the garage was added. I don't know if it was there from the start. That being said the floor was in fairly good shape but it was smoothed over from wear and it did have some stains on it. After all I read and with the garage being small compared to most around here, I decided to just grind the top with and angle grinder. It wasn't too bad and I think it really gave me a great surface in addition to smoothing out the impurities.

My supply list:
- 3m paint respirator (a MUST)
- 2 gallons of rust bullet standard
- 1 gallon of rust bullet clear shot
- 10 lbs of white, grey, black flakes (way too much for medium coverage for my floor...)
- Rustoleum epoxy floor patch
- Dewalt 4.5" diamond cup wheel
- dust shroud for grinder
- A couple of paint trays (1 for each coat)
- Wooster rollers 3/8" nap (1 for each coat)
- couple of paint brushes
- Silicon gloves
- Shark Grip
- 1 gallon Metal Blast degreaser
- spiked shoes


To Start off here are some pics of the final product:

The Prep:

I know the big draw for me was the fact that rust bullet is advertised to not require much prep work. Although that may be true, I didn't want to risk too much. If I had owned a power washer I most likely would have just power washed the surface and called it good. I don't own one and I really didn't want to get the floor all wet. When I purchased the house the garage was missing all of its sheet rock, including the ceiling (don't ask me why). I had since torn all the old insulation out and put up new stuff. I wasn't interested in getting that all damaged with water splashing everywhere. I just went ahead and bought a dust shroud and 4.5" diamond wheel for 70 bucks total on amazon. After clearing the garage I went to work. I was really surprised at how easy it was for the most part. I had it all done in a matter of a few hours with breaks. The dust shroud worked wonders and all the gummy stains just got rubbed right out. I did have a few small swirl marks but I wasn't worried about it, I was planning on the coating to cover most of my blunders.

After I grinded down the whole floor I went around and patched all the big cracks and holes. The rustoleum patch worked great. After it dried I grinded those areas and the floor was very smooth. I didn't fill all of the cracks, I left the smaller ones thinking the rust bullet would fill them in.... It didn't....

After I did the grinding I did go around with a bucket and a microfiber cloth and just mopped the floor by hand. It was pretty quick work and helped removed some of the left over dust. I did that about 4 days before I started painting. the warnings are clear that the floor MUST be DRY.

Oh I forgot to mention degreasing. Before grinding I put down the metal blast. I didn't have many grease spots to mention. It didn't look like cars had really ever been parked in the garage and I only knew of a few small spots from my self. I used the metal blast. I wasn't too impressed I guess. It asks that you rinse it off with water, it smells, but I guess it did work. I didn't really rinse it off the floor. I wiped it up a bit and then just grinded over the top.... Like I said the floor wasn't too greasy and water seemed to absorb fine in those areas. Maybe the mopping later on helped too. If I had to do it again though I would use something different. Maybe some TSP or Pour n Restore. I wouldn't say the metal blast is anything special but it does work. One thing to note is all of the rust bullet stuff has instructions for metal surfaces, since that is what it was designed for, so the metal blast instructions are a bit vague when it comes to porous surfaces.

 

[boricuastock]

The Paint:

Rust bullet smells (like paint thinner). It smells bad. I think I would have brain damage had I not used a respirator. Luckily my wife and baby were out of town for the bulk of the work. Houston weather was also in the 60s which aided in the whole process. After my first coat my whole house smelled (one story 3 bedroom). I opened all the windows to help vent it out. Remember, I have no ceiling in the garage so that probably aided in the smell dispersing through the house. USE A RESPIRATOR. Don't question it!

Anyways after conversing with Justin I came up with the following schedule

Morning day 1 - Put down coat 1

Evening day 1 - Put down 2nd coat if dry

Morning Day 2 - Put down 3rd coat
- Throw down flakes

Morning Day 3 (24hrs)- 1st coat of clear

Evening Day 3 - 2nd coat of clear with shark grip mixed in

The first coat went on smooth. I started by painting the edges of the garage with a brush. Since I don't have drywall up I didn't have to tape anything which made it easy. I really only did about 1 coat on the edges with the brush. I didn't see the need to go through the hassle of doing 3 coats with a brush. I then filled a tray and got my 9" roller and started rolling on the first coat. This stuff is thin as one can imagine. Probably thinner then a regular can of Latex paint. My garage soaked it up like a sponge. I used about 3/4 gallons on the first coat.

The painting process didn't take long. One thing to note is I did not have gloves on for the first coats. My hands were a mess and this stuff does NOT wash off. I advise you use gloves to avoid the mess on your hands.

12 hrs later, after I got home from work, I went in for the second coat. The recommendation is to wait until it is no longer tacky. that was the case for me. I still put on my spiked shoes at this point. I will go ahead and mention that I tried to reuse the brush and roller from the first coat. The brush was hardened but the roller had a little life left. I had squeezed out the paint in the roller from the first coat and covered it all up. It didn't work too well. I did not wash the tools as I didn't want this stuff down my drain. I would stick to that. DO NOT wash this stuff down the drain unless you want to gum up your pipes (not to mention environmental concerns). Water doesn't do much to it. I didn't try using paint thinner or any other solvent to clean. Needless to say the 2nd coat probably wasn't as thick since I reused the roller. It went on fine though and I only used about 1/3 of a gallon for this 2nd coat.

I put the 3rd coat on in the morning. Again, about 10-12 hrs was plenty for me. Both mornings the weather was around 50 degrees when I started coating. I pulled out a new tray and roller and put on my spiked shoes and got to it. I tried to go on extra thick, to make up for the potentially thinner 2nd coat and to give a good layer for my flakes. As can be seen in my pics there were roller marks. The first coat was the worst (they got less noticeable with time). I am not a great painter and I didn't really care either. I am sure there are those who are much better at painting that could do this easily with no roller marks. I knew the flakes would cover 90% of my imperfections and they did.

After finishing the 3rd coat, I have about 1/4-1/3 gallon of rust bullet left. Again my garage is 250 sq.ft. If I had a two car garage 3 gallons or more would have been desired for a nice coating. You could obviously get away with just 2 coats to save money I guess. Especially if you are putting on a clear top like myself.

With my spiked shoes still on I threw down my flakes. I could hardly see the grey flakes. They blended right in pretty much. I also did not go around and wet the edges with a brush. I perhaps should've since there was no tack for the flakes to stick but oh well. Between dry wall and trim, most of the edges would get covered. At this point I was pretty pleased with how it all looked. I was a little worried at this point that the flakes would not stick well, but that ended up not being the case.

After about 24 hours I went out to start putting on the clear. The floor was plenty dry. I probably could have put the clear on after 12 hrs but oh well, the instructions say within 48hrs. I wanted to be sure it was good and dry. I stirred the can of clear for the recommended 3 minutes and poured some in the paint tray. I tried to go a little thinner on the first coat. I really just wanted to seal in the flakes. The clear top is very thin. It was similar to the consistency of warm honey. It was also hard to see where I had rolled it down so I just kept going in a pattern. Roller marks were not an issue since I could hardly see where I was rolling it to begin with. I did not have any shark grip in at this point. I knew I would do that later.

Finally, after 12 hrs, I put down the last coat of clear. I measured out and put down about 2/3 gallons of clear. I mixed 1 quart at a time, mixing in the recommended amount of shark grip. I went as heavy as such a thin material would allow. I first got all of the high traffic areas then I started moving towards the edges. I never got down with a paint brush and did the edges during this time. About a day later, after everything had dried I noticed that the flakes weren't locked in on some of the edges they needed to be. I just took a brush and started coating those areas.

I have to say I am very pleased with the result. The floor looks great. The top seems strong and durable (of course time will tell). I will say that a few days after doing it (technically before the 5 day cure time ended), I had a pallet delivered by fedEx. Right in the entrance of the garage, their pallet jack put a mark on the floor. It is hard to see and those little compact metal wheels with several hundred pounds of weight aren't particularly safe for any floor. It is a very light scratch that didn't break the clear. I just painted some of my leftover clear over the top for good measure and called it good. I am not worried about jack stands or anything at this time. Only time will tell I guess.

It is extremely convenient to know I can just patch the floor fairly easily. The instructions say just rough the surface to about 100 grit sand paper and paint it on. Not having to mix compounds is very convenient for the random touch-ups I make as I closely examine my work. The surface also has a slight bit of tack to it (sort of rubbery feel) in addition to the shark grip I put in.

I could probably talk about this all day. Let me know what you think and if you have questions!

 

[Colin Len]

Looks great. For some reason I'm stumbling on these Rust Bullet threads today and am quite tempted to try it out. Can't wait to hear an update after you've put it through some abuse.

 

[nomosnow]

Looks great. I know you are really proud of your great work. I am just about to start this process. I just ordered Rust Bullet for my 420 sq ft garage & am eagerly awaiting its arrival. Yours & other positive experiences (& great pictures!) have me really stoked.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I have to read this thread again because you have provided an incredible amount of information, but I would like to say that your floor looks AMAZING! You did a flat out incredible job and documented everything beyond what we could have asked for. NICE WORK!

We would love to add your photos and case study to our Rust Bullet Page

 

[boricuastock]

For those on the fence or interested by it, I highly recommend it. It really was easy to work with. Justin, I'd be happy to provide you photos or whatever you would like for your page. I have a lot more photos and can obviously take more.

 

[OJ Bartley]

Good looking floor, I really like your mixture of flakes on that darkish grey. Well done! Hope it lasts you forever.

 

[BIGSHOT]

What's the difference with a rust bullet coating versus epoxy ? Is this epoxy based ?

 

[Garage Flooring]

What's the difference with a rust bullet coating versus epoxy ? Is this epoxy based ?

Rust Bullet Page: http://www.garageflooringllc.com/rust-bullet-concrete/
Current RB Coupon Code: RB14 (does not apply to kits)

From a technical standpoint it is important to understand that Rust Bullet is NOT an epoxy. I am going to paste some technical information below, but it gets kind of geeky so I want to first say what it means to the end user.

RB: Does not require measuring and mixing of multiple components, eliminating one of the major mistakes homeowner make when applying epoxy.

RB: Has been proven to stick to concrete that has not been grinded or etched. In fact it sticks to glass. The resins are very similar to what you would find those (avoiding brand name) instant super sticky glues.

RB: has a perpetual operating range over 300 degrees so hot tires have no impact on it. It can withstand temperatures twice that for shorter periods of time.

RB: can be recoated at any time after lightly sanding it.

RB: Was designed with aviation fluids and deicing solutions in mind, It is incredibly chemical resistant and unaffected by road salts.

RB has been extensively tested by third parties for abrasion resistance, chemical resistance, salt spray resistance, flexibility, etc. In every test I have seen they crushed other coatings products on the head to head level.

RB: Changed my mind when it comes to coatings. I have always felt that some in the industry tried to trick people into thinking coatings could be done easily or inexpensively. I always said they couldn't.




Rust Bullet is a Moisture Cure Urethane

Moisture cured means using the natural elements of the atmosphere for curing. This means no artificial heat source is required, no additional activator or component required. Although Rust Bullet Products contain isocyanates, they are not free isocyanates, but rather are safely bound in the polymer chain.

Rust Bullet is an Aromatic Urethane with Aliphatic Properties

Aliphatic and aromatic coatings differ in the types of polyols and isocyanates used in the formulation, hence their stability in atmospheric conditions differ significantly.



Because of Rust Bullet's Unique Formulation, it is both Aromatic and Aliphatic

AROMATIC – Strong, Abrasive resistant, Chemical Resistant, Flexible
ALIPHATIC ‐ UV Resistant – will not yellow or chalk
RUST BULLET IS A POLYURETHANE COATING EXHIBITING HIGHER PERFORMANCE VALUE THAN AN ELASTOMERIC COATING – WITH OUTSTANDING FLEXIBLE PROPERTIES.
Due to the cross‐linking density of a polyurethane coating (short chains and branching) it shows a high degree of chemical and moisture resistance, as well as excellent adhesive properties. These qualities position polyurethane coatings as the best choice in protecting metals from corrosion. As elastomeric coatings do not perform as well in such areas, they are superior in terms of abrasion and impact resistance as well as protection for substrates that demonstrate more movement than metals (such as concrete). Rust Bullet Products have demonstrated a high competition with the elastomeric coatings in that they exhibit an exceptional abrasion resistance (ASTM D‐4060 Abrasion Resistance), Impact Resistance (ASTM D2444) and flexibility (ASTM D‐522 Mandrel Bend)

 

[Shea]

For those who are on the fence about epoxy floor coatings due to the concrete prep requirements, short pot life for applying product, worries about hot tire lift, and etc, Justin is offering a great alternative with Rust Bullet.

We originally did an article about it here that covers many of the benefits and explains what the product actually is. Justin has taken it a step further and offers a clear coat system to go along with it as well. Rust Bullet goes down like paint but provides many of the benefits of epoxy. It's definitely worth a look.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Gang, it's important to note a few things about urethane coatings. I can speak from experience as urethanes are a vital part of our business.
Moisture cured urethanes have been in use for years. We sell them as a topcoat to our garage kits. They are not "paints". They are two component, moisture in the air being the "B" portion. They utilize moisture in the air to complete the curing process.

Why use epoxy under urethane?

Epoxy adds build.
You would have to put down 2-3 coats of urethane to accomplish what one coat of epoxy primer offers. Urethane is thin and watery.

Epoxy is more tolerant.
More tolerant to oil spots not properly handled, more tolerant to a less than good prep job, etc...

Epoxy is brittle compared to Urethane.
Why is this good?? In the event of a small failure or break in the coating, the damage will be localized. Easily repaired.
When urethane fails, it fails big. Imagine a sheet of saran wrap. That is what you get when urethane fails. Urethane's flexibility is an achilles heal in a failure.

Frankly, I am very skeptical of any MCU going direct to a concrete slab and absolutely dumbfounded by any coating product going down without a diamond grind or proper acid etch. Urethane topcoats without an epoxy base are like rebar without the concrete. Coatings applied to concrete without proper prep (grind or etch) are a fools gamble.

 

[griffedi]

I am soooo confused by your statement
"Epoxy is more tolerant. More tolerant to oil spots not properly handled, more tolerant to a less than good prep job, etc..." as it seems to have been clear on this forum that epoxy requires the utmost in preparation..
So, are you saying that one is just as likely to get a good finish installing epoxy over a "not so good" prep job as they are to use Rust bullet as recommended?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

My opinion, supported by much work on the industrial and DIY side of the business, is that urethane is less tolerant to the common issues associated with concrete prep than epoxy. That is one reason why we place an epoxy primer and base coat down before we roll out the urethane.

When you do this for a living, you want to eliminate risk. Putting urethane directly to a concrete surface, in my opinion, is extremely risky, especially with a miniscule amount of preparation.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Gang, it's important to note a few things about urethane coatings. I can speak from experience as urethanes are a vital part of our business.
Moisture cured urethanes have been in use for years. We sell them as a topcoat to our garage kits. They are not "paints". They are two component, moisture in the air being the "B" portion. They utilize moisture in the air to complete the curing process.

Why use epoxy under urethane?

Epoxy adds build.
You would have to put down 2-3 coats of urethane to accomplish what one coat of epoxy primer offers. Urethane is thin and watery.

Epoxy is more tolerant.
More tolerant to oil spots not properly handled, more tolerant to a less than good prep job, etc...

Epoxy is brittle compared to Urethane.
Why is this good?? In the event of a small failure or break in the coating, the damage will be localized. Easily repaired.
When urethane fails, it fails big. Imagine a sheet of saran wrap. That is what you get when urethane fails. Urethane's flexibility is an achilles heal in a failure.

Frankly, I am very skeptical of any MCU going direct to a concrete slab and absolutely dumbfounded by any coating product going down without a diamond grind or proper acid etch. Urethane topcoats without an epoxy base are like rebar without the concrete. Coatings applied to concrete without proper prep (grind or etch) are a fools gamble.

My opinion, supported by much work on the industrial and DIY side of the business, is that urethane is less tolerant to the common issues associated with concrete prep than epoxy. That is one reason why we place an epoxy primer and base coat down before we roll out the urethane.

When you do this for a living, you want to eliminate risk. Putting urethane directly to a concrete surface, in my opinion, is extremely risky, especially with a miniscule amount of preparation.

Scotty raises some great points. Again for a long time, I have been saying their is no easy floor coating, no way to escape the prep and use 100% solids epoxy if your going to use an epoxy.... Do it right or don't do it all. I still believe their is a place for epoxy systems, there always will be.

It is also true that the DFT/coat on a urethane is much less than an epoxy. ~2.4 - 3 Mils. That's why we require at least two coats. The question isn't how thick the product ends up, the question is how thick does it need to be to get the performance you need. With epoxy, you need a high build. With Rust Bullet, you don't. Some jobs require more than others though. That is true.

Oil stains need to be dealt with. They do with any product. RB has their own product that they have been using for exactly that purpose for years. It works.

Rust Bullet won't cure cancer and it will likely never be the choice of professional applicators. I have been doing this since 2001. We sell millions of dollars in product and honestly I did not go looking for a (new) coating product. It found me. I was skeptical too. But the countless applications from small garages to huge shops tell the story. The industrial applications are incredible and go far beyond what I would ever recommend a coating for.

I would never suggest a urethane top coat as your primary coating. In fact, even the RB clear requires some special attention if you are going to use it alone. RB is not a top coat. Its not a two part urethane and obviously it is not a paint.

What rust bullet is is a great DIY option. It is a one part urethane, with multiple patents and a litany of testing and results. We did not invent it. We did not discover this application. Its been quietly building for years.

Are there situations where grinding is necessary. ABSOLUTELY. We say so on the page. Will there be jobs that have issues. ABSOLUTELY. But this is a time proven product and it just does not get any easier in the coatings world.

 

[kowalskin]

I am also very interested in the Rust Bullet floor coating and quite tempted to try it out. Has anyone used any of the different colored Rust Bullet Top coats and if so have any pics they can post?

 

[Garage Flooring]

I am also very interested in the Rust Bullet floor coating and quite tempted to try it out. Has anyone used any of the different colored Rust Bullet Top coats and if so have any pics they can post?

The vast majority of the projects that are out there are gray, gray/clear, gray/clear with flake and some industrial gray/white. We have two projects in white that we are waiting for photos on.

We are still offering a 33% rebate (not valid with other promotions) for someone who would like to do a black floor.

 

[ColoradoToy91]

The vast majority of the projects that are out there are gray, gray/clear, gray/clear with flake and some industrial gray/white. We have two projects in white that we are waiting for photos on.

We are still offering a 33% rebate (not valid with other promotions) for someone who would like to do a black floor.

I am interested, sent you a PM

 

[Garage Flooring]

PM replied to

 

[Garage Flooring]

First, I have PM'd the individual who decided to use a customer experience with a product line. I happen to respect this person a lot, but I do not believe this thread was the appropriate place for the information they posted. Many folks on this forum have expressed deep discontent with others who took to a thread about a specific brand to attack it. In fact, I have personally had to delete a comment I made about an imported tile, Now that it is out there, I wanted to more thoroughly address some of the points. Had I done the over the last couple of days, I have been corresponding with the folks that make the Rust Bullet Urethane. They pulled together their technical team and we had a lot of back and forth.

First, I sell epoxy and other systems. Having used both I believe the 'average Joe' is 10x more likely to be successful with Rust Bullet as their coating that epoxy.... Its also fair to say that in most cases, the audience of this forum is not the average Joe. Epoxy can be a great choice for experienced, or at least educated consumers, who are willing to di it right. It is also a much better choice for certain broadcast systems that require a high build. My point is not that this is the 'only' coating, but that the issues raised by a competitor, about generic MCU are not applicable to the RB product. Some issues were raised about MCU's in general. If these were typical MCU products, based on old technology, those points would be a major concern.

I am pasting an email from the tech team below. I am also inserting some comments as well. My comments are in italics I have also added underlines and bold to emphasize certain parts. What is very important to understand is, these are not empty claims of a 'new' product. Rust Bullet is time proven and they have an unprecedented amount of third party, ASTM testing in the forms of PUBLIC documents and videos.

Alright, got together some great points about Rust Bullet! I truly think this person does not understand what Rust Bullet is or how it works. It is not your typical MCU. I truly believe he may be referring to the old technology of polyurethanes. Most of them are thin and “watery”. And based on what he sells, he sells one type, which is a clear topcoat. Of course a clear coating will be thinner than any other type of coating available. Below is much of the explanations of how Rust Bullet differs from traditional urethane coatings and epoxies. NOT all of these notes are specific to the garage floor but included for the purpose of understanding how different of a product this is.

Most MCU coatings are aromatic. Aromatic coatings are more heat and chemical resistant than the aliphatic coatings. Aromatic coatings do not stand up as well against atmospheric exposure since the UV light causes yellowing and chalking. Aliphatic coatings are the superior choice for exterior protection because they are very stable when exposed to ultraviolet light, weathering, and hydrolysis. The raw materials used in formulating aliphatic systems are generally more expensive and have higher viscosities than their aromatic counterparts. Rust Bullet is an aromatic with aliphatic properties. This is why Rust Bullet is UV resistant with superior chemical resistance. This unique formulation makes Rust Bullet considered a hybrid MCU. Due to the cross‐linking density of a urethane coating (short chains and branching) it shows a high degree of chemical and moisture resistance, as well as excellent adhesive properties. Elastomeric coatings do not perform as well in such areas, they are superior in terms of abrasion and impact resistance as well as protection for substrates that demonstrate more movement than metals (such as concrete). Rust Bullet Products have demonstrated a high competition with the elastomeric coatings in that they exhibit an exceptional abrasion resistance (ASTM D‐4060 Abrasion Resistance), Impact Resistance (ASTM D2444) and flexibility (ASTM D‐522 Mandrel Bend) in short, Rust Bullet has managed to design a urethane product with a high metallic content that exhibits the strongest characteristics from three different product groups. Elastomeric Coatings, Aliphatic, and Aromatic

Rust Bullet Coatings feature a unique “self‐inspecting” property in that they fail almost immediately if they are incorrectly applied or if there is a problem with the surface preparation. Thus this urethane coating can be inspected immediately after application and any defects in the coating will be visible and can be readily remedied. This is not the case with an epoxy coating that requires an extended curing time and multiple step process for remedy. Breaches in an epoxy coating are labor intensive and will involve a large area outside the breach to be included in the repair. Rust Bullet Coating rarely experience a breach, but when they do occur, are easily repaired with simple scuffing and application of additional Rust Bullet Product. The plural component Epoxy Coatings require precise mixing ratios be obtained at the point of application to avoid coating defects and failures. This is not an issue with Rust Bullet Coatings as they are a one‐step, one‐part, multiple coat process.

The three recognized methods of protection that coatings provide are; barrier protection, inhibition, and sacrificial action - Rust Bullet provides a barrier coating that is non‐porous and impermeable. Barrier Protection blocks moisture, oxygen and other chemicals from the substrate. All coatings are permeable to some degree, but barrier coatings have relatively low moisture permeability -Rust Bullet provides a barrier coating that is non‐porous and impermeable. Inhibitive coatings contain special pigments to inhibit or interfere with the corrosion reactions on the substrate. As moisture passes through the coating film, the anti‐corrosive pigments slowly dissolve and aid in stopping corrosion. Rust Bullet contains special pigments that inhibit corrosion. Sacrificial action is the method used by zinc‐ and aluminum rich coatings -

Hope all of this helps. Tell him to try it and tell you again that it isn’t amazing!

 

[EMC2]

Very nice. Looks great.
I've had my Rust Bullet floor for over 2 years and simply would not use anything else.

 

[Garage Flooring]

We just had a a GJ member chat in and ask about this job. He used B-411 1/4" Flakes. I wanted to add it just in case someone else needs it.

 

[RhythmAddict0]

]

It's been a few years! I'd love to know how/if the rust bullet floor held up? I'm exploring options for my garage [emoji16]

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

 

[Wook660]

Mine is 2 years old and has not held up well at all. Pretty disappointed. I laid a bag of unopened lawn fertilizer on the garage floor for a couple days until I got around to spreading it and it left a big mark like it burned right through the coating. It gouges very easily, I cringe when I see the kid's kickstands on their bikes touching the floor it seems that delicate. Oil does clean up easy off of it still though.

 

[RhythmAddict0]

Ahh darn, I'm sorry to hear that! Back to looking at options that are cost effective again...

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

 

[boricuastock]

I did not have any issues with mine. Granted mine probably saw less traffic because the garage was too small to actually park on. I do remember shortly after installing it, I had a pallet jack come in with a pile of brick. It left a small mark on the clear top coat, but it didn't scratch any of the paint off.

I had dry wall mud and what not on mine, but really I did not notice any weak areas and overall I was pleased with the result some 4 years later. I used my single car garage as a shop. I didn't treat it nice at all. I dragged stuff on the floor and rolled things across it and I didn't notice any issues. I didn't have a lot of harsh chemicals spill on it that I recall. My experience has been positive. We recently sold the home and the garage looked great compared to when we bought it.

 

[rg171352]

Did other people have similar issues with Rust Bullet?

 

[b-boy]

In regards to the somewhat negative reviews I've been seeing about Rust Bullet - do they pertain to the older Rust Bullet Concrete product, or are they aimed primarily at the Duraguard product?

I'm just curious. I purchased the older Concrete product.

 

[Garage Flooring]

In regards to the somewhat negative reviews I've been seeing about Rust Bullet - do they pertain to the older Rust Bullet Concrete product, or are they aimed primarily at the Duraguard product?

I'm just curious. I purchased the older Concrete product.

ANY coating product on the market will see some failures. In most cases, they are install related or concrete condition related. We work very hard to take care of our customers and we will not work with any manufacturer who does not do the same.

For years we had amazing results with Rust Bullet. Project after project with stellar results. Based on our experience of late we decided to stop selling it. People change. Formulas change. As distributors, we have to watch these things and adjust accordingly,