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Rust Bullet, good enough for me

Vagabondking

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Joined
Nov 1, 2014
Messages
3
Floor 6 months old
 

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CombatNinja

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Aug 24, 2013
Messages
1,456
Yeah, kind of a weird first post. Claims the floor has been down six months but pictures show nothing in the garage. If you indeed have not put anything except a couple of cars in there--no benches, no toolboxes, no tools, no jacks--just about any floor would still look good. Please clarify as to what we are looking at here.

On second thought, maybe the OP means that he just treated this 6 month-old slab to Rust Bullet?
 

Jinks

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 28, 2012
Messages
2,885
Location
Daytona Beach
Yeah, kind of a weird first post. Claims the floor has been down six months but pictures show nothing in the garage. If you indeed have not put anything except a couple of cars in there--no benches, no toolboxes, no tools, no jacks--just about any floor would still look good. Please clarify as to what we are looking at here.

On second thought, maybe the OP means that he just treated this 6 month-old slab to Rust Bullet?

I hope you're right. If not it means the OP hasn't removed the painters tape in 6 months.......:shocking:
 

CombatNinja

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Joined
Aug 24, 2013
Messages
1,456
Vagabond, what am I looking at about 2/3 of the way into the garage. It shows up in pic 2 and 3 that you posted. Control joint? Crack?
 
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Dick in Wisconsin

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Joined
Mar 3, 2012
Messages
3,048
Location
Shawano, Wisconsin
They say 1/8" i lean towards this rule... If the crack is big enough to fill, fill it. If its not, coat it. Sounds simple, but if I can get my putty knife in there I am going to fill it :beer:

I agree with Justin's recommendation. I thought that RB will fill the saw cuts, but it didn't. I'm going to try to fill them now. The putty knife test is probably a good one.

The thinner version of RB for concrete that Justin and RB might start to ship from the factory might flow into the saw cuts better, but I wouldn't count on it.

It just didn't seem to flow into the cracks. I suppose if I would have take a quart of RB, thinned it, and then sat on the floor with a bush or 3" roller or some kind of thing to work the RB into the saw cracks it might have worked. I had worked really hard to clean the cracks out before applying the RB, I should have spent that time filling them.

I just got done putting RB on the wood floor of my new enclosed race trailer. The surface of the wood floor had some imperfections that I thought the RB would readily "flow" into, but it didn't there were a number of spots that I really had to work the RB into.
 

Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
I agree with Justin's recommendation. I thought that RB will fill the saw cuts, but it didn't. I'm going to try to fill them now. The putty knife test is probably a good one.

The thinner version of RB for concrete that Justin and RB might start to ship from the factory might flow into the saw cuts better, but I wouldn't count on it.

It just didn't seem to flow into the cracks. I suppose if I would have take a quart of RB, thinned it, and then sat on the floor with a bush or 3" roller or some kind of thing to work the RB into the saw cracks it might have worked. I had worked really hard to clean the cracks out before applying the RB, I should have spent that time filling them.

I just got done putting RB on the wood floor of my new enclosed race trailer. The surface of the wood floor had some imperfections that I thought the RB would readily "flow" into, but it didn't there were a number of spots that I really had to work the RB into.

The slightly thinned version is not going to fill any better or any worse. With coatings products, especially thin build coatings products, my suggestion is to fill what can be filled and cover any hairline with the product itself.

If you were using 100% solids epoxy you have a little more flexibility, but in most cases IMHO it is best practice to fill properly as opposed to trying to fill with a coating.
 
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