Rust Bullet or

[Snowman81]

Rust Bullet or Epoxy

I’ve been reading through the forums for a while now, watching too many videos and I think I've narrowed it down to either rust bullet or a 93% solids diy kit from garage flooring LLC. First question...is the rust bullet worth it to save from having to do as much prep? I’ve priced both of the kits for my 554 sq ft garage...about $610 for rust bullet and about $700 for the epoxy, provided I can get by with a 500 sq ft kit. The price for epoxy includes rental of the floor polisher and the attachment. I would likely also need an angle grinder to clean up the edges. Probably only adds about $50 to do so. Any recommendations or anything I’m missing here? I should also add that it’s a unique situation. I haven’t seen the garage floor yet since we are buying a house in FL, but still living in Hawaii. The house is only 4 yrs old though...I going off assumptions and pics that the concrete is in good overall condition and isn’t sealed. I know things will change if that isn’t the case. Thanks in advance.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Snowman, a well power-troweled Florida garage floor will likely laugh at the Home-Depot Rental. We regularly use PCD diamonds to break these floors open.

If it's hand troweled you should be ok.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I’ve been reading through the forums for a while now, watching too many videos and I think I've narrowed it down to either rust bullet or a 93% solids diy kit from garage flooring LLC. First question...is the rust bullet worth it to save from having to do as much prep? I’ve priced both of the kits for my 554 sq ft garage...about $610 for rust bullet and about $700 for the epoxy, provided I can get by with a 500 sq ft kit. The price for epoxy includes rental of the floor polisher and the attachment. I would likely also need an angle grinder to clean up the edges. Probably only adds about $50 to do so. Any recommendations or anything I’m missing here? I should also add that it’s a unique situation. I haven’t seen the garage floor yet since we are buying a house in FL, but still living in Hawaii. The house is only 4 yrs old though...I going off assumptions and pics that the concrete is in good overall condition and isn’t sealed. I know things will change if that isn’t the case. Thanks in advance.

First and foremost, the Rust Bullet prep requirements are highly contingent on the porosity of the floor. If the floor is real smooth and does not absorb water, you are going to prep. If you are going to prep anyway, have a look at the polyurea kits.


To really give you good advice I need to know more about how you use the floor and the floors condition. Legacy's comments are very valid. If you happen to be in his area, there is a lot of value that he brings to the table. I'm a big believer is shopping where you live. No hard feelings if that turns out to be a better option for you. He has great products too

Snowman, a well power-troweled Florida garage floor will likely laugh at the Home-Depot Rental. We regularly use PCD diamonds to break these floors open.

If it's hand troweled you should be ok.

Well said sir.

 

[Snowman81]

Snowman, a well power-troweled Florida garage floor will likely laugh at the Home-Depot Rental. We regularly use PCD diamonds to break these floors open.

If it's hand troweled you should be ok.

Thanks for the heads up. Is that something that I would still be able to rent? I see HD has the standard floor polisher and attachment which is what I referenced, but they also have a concrete grinder for rent, just not sure that it’ll come with any different plate attachment. And I’m oribs Kym a little too far north for you, we’ll be moving to Fernandina Beach, about 15 minutes south of GA. Good to know you’re somewhat close by though.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Thanks for the heads up. Is that something that I would still be able to rent? I see HD has the standard floor polisher and attachment which is what I referenced, but they also have a concrete grinder for rent, just not sure that it’ll come with any different plate attachment. And I’m oribs Kym a little too far north for you, we’ll be moving to Fernandina Beach, about 15 minutes south of GA. Good to know you’re somewhat close by though.

Conventional tooling, we have found, will glaze and heat up. Add weight and wet the whole floor a few hours before you start. Want it damp , not wet.

PCD tooling is too special for rentals.



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[Snowman81]

First and foremost, the Rust Bullet prep requirements are highly contingent on the porosity of the floor. If the floor is real smooth and does not absorb water, you are going to prep. If you are going to prep anyway, have a look at the polyurea kits.


To really give you good advice I need to know more about how you use the floor and the floors condition. Legacy's comments are very valid. If you happen to be in his area, there is a lot of value that he brings to the table. I'm a big believer is shopping where you live. No hard feelings if that turns out to be a better option for you. He has great products too



Well said sir.

Are polyurea kits better than epoxy? I actually read a post where someone purchased rust bullet and then ended up doing a full on prep with grinding, but still laid the rust bullet. I’m sure that decision was based on them already having the product, but seemed silly to go through all that work and still lay rust bullet. Not that the stuff seems bad, I clearly have no experience, just seems like there are better options. Is that the same scenario for me? If I’m gonna do all the prep, better to use polyurea than epoxy?
As for garage usage, it won’t be anything harsh. Normal car parking and maintenance and woodworking, so something fairly easy to clean is important. I was gonna use the true grit. I’ll have to report back on floor condition.
And thanks for being honest. I’m also a firm believer in buying local. And in some cases, even paying to have it done. I’ve received 2 quotes to have the floor done professionally, and both were around $2500...$4.50 and $5 per sq ft. Seems a little high to me when I can do it for about a quarter of the price...plus, I’m typically a DIY guy anyway.

 

[Snowman81]

Conventional tooling, we have found, will glaze and heat up. Add weight and wet the whole floor a few hours before you start. Want it damp , not wet.

PCD tooling is too special for rentals.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks again! What are your install prices to do the floor, wanna head up this way anytime?
With weight and a damp floor, it’ll likely still be a bear to grind through, right? Would etching be a better idea? I’d imagine it’ll take a while since the liquid has to penetrate the surface but not sure what other options there are, if any.

 

[JStar4]

Hes right these garage floors in floridas newer homes are a pain in the ****... i use 16 traps soft and it still takes wayyyyy longer than regular concrete...once you break that hard surface it will grind easy

 

[Garage Flooring]

Are polyurea kits better than epoxy? I actually read a post where someone’s purchased rust bullet and then need up doing a full on prep with grinding, but still laid the rust bullet. I’m sure that decision was based on them already having thr product, but seemed silly to go through all that work and still lay rust bullet. Not that the stuff seems bad, I clearly have no experience, just seems like there are better options. Is that the same scenario for me? If I’m gonna do all the prep, better to use polyurea than epoxy?
As for garage usage, it won’t be anything harsh. Normal car parking and maintenance and woodworking, so something fairly easy to clean is important. I was gonna use the true grit. I’ll have to report back on floor condition.
And thanks for being honest. I’m also a firm believer in buying local. And in some cases, even laying to have it done. I’ve received 2 quotes to have the floor done professionally, and bother we’re around $2500...$4.50 and $5 per sq ft. Seems a little high to me when I can do it for about a quarter of the price...plus, I’m typically a DIY guy anyway.

The garage flooring industry is always evolving. Some for the better and some not. Sometimes companies change formulas and other changes happen that will cause companies like me to change what I recommend. What might have been the best option a couple years ago can be a good option for some today and not others.

Assuming the garage is in good condition, I would tend to go with the Polyurea. There are a lot of reasons but one of the best is you don't have to rush and the product is easy to work with.

 

[Snowman81]

Hes right these garage floors in floridas newer homes are a pain in the ****... i use 16 traps soft and it still takes wayyyyy longer than regular concrete...once you break that hard surface it will grind easy

Left you a message a little bit ago, do you do work as far north as Fernandina? I wouldn't mind getting a quote. I've received 2 quotes in the area for around $2500. Seems to be about the going price in the area.

 

[Snowman81]

The garage flooring industry is always evolving. Some for the better and some not. Sometimes companies change formulas and other changes happen that will cause companies like me to change what I recommend. What might have been the best option a couple years ago can be a good option for some today and not others.

Assuming the garage is in good condition, I would tend to go with the Polyurea. There are a lot of reasons but one of the best is you don't have to rush and the product is easy to work with.

I've been looking at your polyurea kits just to get an idea...so you'd absolutely recommend this kit over epoxy for light garage use (parking/ car maintenance/wood working) for the price? And the 2 coats (1 gray/1 clear) with flake is sufficient protection? Sorry, not trying to beat a dead horse but the epoxy is cheaper and provides more coats. Prep seems about the same, but I have read how much easier polyurea is to install.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I've been looking at your polyurea kits just to get an idea...so you'd absolutely recommend this kit over epoxy for light garage use (parking/ car maintenance/wood working) for the price? And the 2 coats (1 gray/1 clear) with flake is sufficient protection? Sorry, not trying to beat a dead horse but the epoxy is cheaper and provides more coats. Prep seems about the same, but I have read how much easier polyurea is to install.

I would never 100% always recommend one product. Every job is different. Epoxy, combined with a good urethane makes for an outstanding floor. If it were my floor I would absolutely go Polyurea. Not even a second thought.

If I was doing heavy maintenance I'd go three coat. If I'm changing oil and tinkering, I'd stick with two.

A HUGE part of the Polyurea goes beyond performance. It is just much easier to get it right. Also keep in mind, we are using a very low spread rate and a lot more material then we 'have to'

If there are any chemicals you expect long term exposure to, we need to check that out too. Often I will have to go epoxy with a specific top coat for places with prolonged chemical exposure -- and a brewery is different than a kennel.

 

[Snowman81]

I would never 100% always recommend one product. Every job is different. Epoxy, combined with a good urethane makes for an outstanding floor. If it were my floor I would absolutely go Polyurea. Not even a second thought.

If I was doing heavy maintenance I'd go three coat. If I'm changing oil and tinkering, I'd stick with two.

A HUGE part of the Polyurea goes beyond performance. It is just much easier to get it right. Also keep in mind, we are using a very low spread rate and a lot more material then we 'have to'

If there are any chemicals you expect long term exposure to, we need to check that out too. Often I will have to go epoxy with a specific top coat for places with prolonged chemical exposure -- and a brewery is different than a kennel.

Thanks, makes perfect sense. I think for the minor maintenance I’ll be doing and my level of OCD, polyurea is the winner. One part of the OCD is getting application right. I’m gonna be mad at myself if I mess that up and if polyurea is easier, then better chance of not messing up. Second part is cleaning any messes when the happen. Spills do not sit on my garage floor for very long, and always less than 24 hrs. Thanks again for be info.