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Rust Bullet

cweidert03

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Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
417
Location
New Castle, IN
New member here..

Finally going to make my garage the way I want and ordered some NewAge cabinets.. They are very nice.. But decided to do the floor prior to installing everything.. I have been researching coatings/epoxys for almost 2 weeks. I emailed Justin the other night with my ideas and what I wanted. He responded the next morning and gave me some valuable input.. I then looked at the Rust Bullet reviews on GJ and was sold. I ordered my product today.

36x24 3 bay attached garage. I'm not looking forward to emptying the garage.. I will post up some before and after pics of the garage in the coming weeks.
 
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Garage Flooring

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May 21, 2011
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Grand Junction, CO
Thank you for your business! :beer: Looking forward to the project pics!


I'm not sure when you are doing the install, but I did want to plant a bug in your ear that I will be out of the country for a week starting next Saturday. My office remains fully staffed and should something come up that they can't help you with they will get the answer for you. I also will check emails, etc but there is a bit of a time difference.
 
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cweidert03

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
417
Location
New Castle, IN
Got the garage ready for Rust Bullet.

My process
Started with degreasing all bad oil spots with simple green and a deck brush.
Then I soaked the entire floor with simple green and scrubbed with a deck brush and used a power washer to clean the floor and remove any of the cleaner.

Then I used Muratic Acid and etched the concrete. This process was easier than I thought. I throughly scrubbed the acid as I was doing each section.

I rinsed out with a garden hose after pouring baking soda and water mix to neutralize the acid.

Finally I dampened the floor and sprayed simple green on the floor once more and scrubbed really well followed by power washer to clean the floor one last time. The floor looked really good and you can definitely tell it had been etched.

Then I grounded out a crack with a concrete wheel on my angle grinder and then smoothed it with a 4.5" diamabrush on the grinder. After cleaning the dust I used Rustoleum cement epoxy crack filler and filled the crack. This was my first mistake the crack was much deeper than I thought and the epoxy kept going deeper. I should have pre filled with silica sand. I ended up putting a second coat of epoxy and the used the diamabrush to grind it all smooth.

Final step I used my leaf blower and blew out the garage followed by sweeping with a soft push broom. Let the dust settle for an hour and swept it out again. Then waited an hour and swept it one last time.. Hopefully I'm ready now!
 

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cweidert03

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
417
Location
New Castle, IN
I have attached the pictures after rolling on the 1st coat of RB.

So to be clear I will start from the beginning. I wanted to coat the floor more for looks than for anything else. I work in the garage mostly detailing my cars and doing small projects like changing oil on my mustang and doing routine maint on my ATV. I recently ordered some new cabinets from NewAge and decided to do the floor and be done with the garage.

1. I swept out the floor after emptying the garage with a push broom followed by using my leaf blower creating lots of dust in the air. I then let the garage sit for an hour so the dust would settle and I followed up with sweeping the garage again.

2. I pretreated all known oil spots and heavy dirt areas by soaking with simple green and then scrubbed with a stiff bristled deck brush. I rinsed the area with water so the solution didn't dry. I also didn't dilute the All purpose cleaner/degreaser as I wanted max effect. After rinsing the floor I then sprayed a 50/50 simple green water mixture over the entire floor and scrubbed with the deck brush as to get as much clean as possible.

3. After cleaning the floor I rinsed and followed this with another spray down with simple green and began power washing the floor. This was slow as i held the tip fairly close to get as much dirt and grime out as possible. The floor looked much better after power washing.

4. After letting the floor dry I then decided I needed to Acid Etch to be sure there was not a sealant on as the water would penetrate but seemed to do so slowly. Off to the hardware store. Bought 10 Gallons. (They looked at me sort of funny). I then etched the floor and I am glad I did as this made the floor look much better and made me feel better moving forward with the RB.

5. After rinsing the floor I decided to spray 50/50 simple green and water over the floor and powerwash again. This went quickly as when the washer was no longer making suds I moved to the next area.

6. Floor dried for 4 days and then I tackled the crack across the 2 car bay(original before the addition of the 3rd bay). I decided to grind out the crack and use Rustoleum 2 part epoxy crack repair as I have used it in the past and it worked well. The only mistake i made up to this point was not using the backer rod or silica sand to pre-fill the crack. This resulted in a trip to the hardware store for a second batch to fill the crack a second time. This sat for 2 days as I wanted epoxy to cure before grinding smooth.

7. I purchased the diamabrush 4.5" for my Dewalt grinder and grinder the filled crack. After looking at the area that was filled you could tell that it was not as smooth as the rest of the concrete. Not sure if its my inexperience or if that is normal results for a hand held diamabrush.

8. Sweeping/blowing the dust out. The grinding created a great deal of dust. I swept and used my leaf blower about 5 times the day before i planned on coating the floor.

9. Day of final prep. I used my shop-vac with floor attachment and a filter for drywall dust and swept the entire floor. Then I swept it out again. I think it was as dust free as I could do.

10. Install first coat. This process to about 3hrs from start to finish by myself. Since I was doing it alone I decided to edge/cut in the entire garage first and not worry about having lines show since it it my garage and most wall space will be covered. You can see in the pics that I have trim around the entire garage and some block wall between 4"-6" on the side walls. I used a small paint brush because the chip brush in the kit was too big. Worked just fine..

Rolling the RB. This rolls on just like paint the 825sqft took about 2 hours to do the first coat from start to finish. I found it very difficult to keep roller marks from showing and was a little scared that this product wasn't what I thought. However, the 2nd and 3rd coats went much better.
 

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cweidert03

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Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
417
Location
New Castle, IN
Okay 2nd coat went on very smooth not really much to say about the 2nd coat. you can see that this covered much better. This took right at an hour from start to finish. The temps were in the 50"s but my garage has 2 heat ducts that run off the bonus room thermostat. it was probably 60 in the garage. I started at 7am which was 12 hours after I started the 1st coat and the floor was not tacky.

One note you will want to use cheap rollers as the cover does not want to come off and I didn't want to haggle with using solvent to try and save a $4 roller.. This is after I left the solvent on the side of the garage during the first coat and painted it in so I couldn't use it on my $20 roller. This was mistake #2

Also for those who are not using flakes. My experience with RB you will see ALL imperfections in the floor with regular coating as this product is thin compared to epoxy.
 

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cweidert03

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Location
New Castle, IN
I did not take pictures after the third coat. But I will explain. I decided to have my father come help as he has always been my painting guy when Ive bought new houses. Lets just say he and I have painted about 8000sq/ft of walls ceilings and trim in my 3 houses in the last 10 years. And 2 coats on all of it! So i thought he would be good to have around when throwing flakes. He wanted to roll and not get blamed for poor flake tossing. I would not want to try and do both at the same time but I think it could be done.

Tossing flakes. I got 10# of flake and Justin suggested using about 8#. I thought how am I going to make sure I don't use too many. Decided to separate into ziplock back and had about 9.5 bags full so essentially 1#/bag. This was perfect I thought. However, I found that I seemed to throw the flakes on thicker as we went. I think this was me being bored waiting on my dad to get the next section done and trying to even out the floor(I read this would happen but throwing little confetti flakes is so much fun). I probably only used about 6.5 to 7# of flakes on the floor and probably would have been happy with 5.
 
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cweidert03

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Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
417
Location
New Castle, IN
So the final step was the clear. Before starting the clear I went over the floor twice with a shop-vac and a floor attachment with duct tape on the lip. This was probably the worst part of the installation process. Its not easy to see where you have been and bending over to do it wasn't much fun. Plus my vac has the notorious collapsing hose right where it attaches to the vac. The flakes make the floor very textured and covered all imperfections. Except for the 1" by 6" line that was either not coated in the 3rd coat or I didn't get the flakes on until it was too dry for them to stick. I started the final RB coat at about 1:30 and started the clear at 7:30 and the floor was dry to the touch in 6 hours. So I edged/cut in the clear around the entire garage when I started even though I probably should have done it as I went. The clear went on well and I was nervous before I started because I wasn't sure if I would see where I had rolled it on. However, this was quickly eliminated as the grey turns substantially darker with the clear on. So I was nervous about not having enough product to do the entire floor with clear and after discussing with Justin today I probably didn't apply the clear as liberally as I should have even though I ordered plenty of product. I had 2 gallons and 1 qt of clear and used approx 1 3/4 gallons for 1 coat. I did the 2 car part of the garage much more liberally after realizing I had plenty to do the floor. I should have done a 2nd coat on the first section as I had plenty but wasn't about to wake up at 3am to do it and that is the least traffic area anyway.

Overall I am very happy with the results. Justin was fantastic with answering my questions.

I will let everyone know how the floor holds up. I Still have to install my cabinets and decide if I'm going to use silkaflex in the contraction joint.

Also spoke with Kristi Friday as Justin was out of town to answer all my questions prior to starting and she was very helpful.


Hope this helps someone in their RB project.
 

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bww_mnm

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Joined
Dec 30, 2010
Messages
673
Location
Chicago area
Looks great. How many hours do you have into the job? I'm looking at RB but want as little prep as possible. I may pay for epoxy.
 

Garage Flooring

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Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
NICE LOOKING FLOOR!!!

So everyone knows. If you etch or grind your floor, we completely expect the first and sometimes the second coat not to look as nice as they usually would. That is why we suggest a third coat for etched floors or when grinding.

Why?

Rust Bullet for Concrete is engineered to penetrate into concrete that has not been prepped. When you take a floor that has been prepped that first coat soaks in and basically just seals the floor. The second coat becomes your 'first coat' and the thrid coat becomes your finish coat.
 

bww_mnm

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 30, 2010
Messages
673
Location
Chicago area
So the final step was the clear. Before starting the clear I went over the floor twice with a shop-vac and a floor attachment with duct tape on the lip. This was probably the worst part of the installation process. Its not easy to see where you have been and bending over to do it wasn't much fun. Plus my vac has the notorious collapsing hose right where it attaches to the vac. The flakes make the floor very textured and covered all imperfections. Except for the 1" by 6" line that was either not coated in the 3rd coat or I didn't get the flakes on until it was too dry for them to stick. I started the final RB coat at about 1:30 and started the clear at 7:30 and the floor was dry to the touch in 6 hours. So I edged/cut in the clear around the entire garage when I started even though I probably should have done it as I went. The clear went on well and I was nervous before I started because I wasn't sure if I would see where I had rolled it on. However, this was quickly eliminated as the grey turns substantially darker with the clear on. So I was nervous about not having enough product to do the entire floor with clear and after discussing with Justin today I probably didn't apply the clear as liberally as I should have even though I ordered plenty of product. I had 2 gallons and 1 qt of clear and used approx 1 3/4 gallons for 1 coat. I did the 2 car part of the garage much more liberally after realizing I had plenty to do the floor. I should have done a 2nd coat on the first section as I had plenty but wasn't about to wake up at 3am to do it and that is the least traffic area anyway.

Overall I am very happy with the results. Justin was fantastic with answering my questions.

I will let everyone know how the floor holds up. I Still have to install my cabinets and decide if I'm going to use silkaflex in the contraction joint.

Also spoke with Kristi Friday as Justin was out of town to answer all my questions prior to starting and she was very helpful.


Hope this helps someone in their RB project.

I though the big benefit of RB is minimal prep. With all the prep you did, why not go epoxy? Not knocking you and it looks great, but in trying to learn.
 

Garage Flooring

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Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
I though the big benefit of RB is minimal prep. With all the prep you did, why not go epoxy? Not knocking you and it looks great, but in trying to learn.

If you have a clean, dry surface that has not been previously treated, Rust Bullet goes down with no prep wonderfully. Like any coatings product there are situations that require more prep.

Every coating has advantages and disadvantages. I would never say across the board that Rust Bullet is better for every job or epoxy is better for every job. That said Rust Bullet has some very unique properties that make it advantageous for a lot of our customers.

  • Chemical Resistance
  • Non Yellowing
  • Abrasion Resistance
  • Pot Life

Would be a few examples
 
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cweidert03

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Oct 19, 2015
Messages
417
Location
New Castle, IN
1. Well I had planned on not doing as much prep. But I ordered the product before I got the garage cleaned out and decided that since I wasn't 100% sure if the floor had a sealer or not that I needed to either grind or etch the concrete.

2. I also liked the pot life aspect and thought for a DIY that it would have less chance to screw up the installation.

3. I liked the price of RB

4. I like the thought that if I had to repair I could order small quantities and felt it would be easier to blend than patching Epoxy.

5. I dont do much work in the garage. I park, Detail and sometimes work on my ATV. so it will not get much abuse.
 

bww_mnm

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Joined
Dec 30, 2010
Messages
673
Location
Chicago area
1. Well I had planned on not doing as much prep. But I ordered the product before I got the garage cleaned out and decided that since I wasn't 100% sure if the floor had a sealer or not that I needed to either grind or etch the concrete.

2. I also liked the pot life aspect and thought for a DIY that it would have less chance to screw up the installation.

3. I liked the price of RB

4. I like the thought that if I had to repair I could order small quantities and felt it would be easier to blend than patching Epoxy.

5. I dont do much work in the garage. I park, Detail and sometimes work on my ATV. so it will not get much abuse.

Thanks for your response and your floor looks great!
 
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