Rust converter thoughts

[woody367]

I am cleaning up the rust under my truck. I been wire brush on a grinder then using EASTWOODS Rust Converter and there other products. I was to to make my own rust converter using phosphoric acid and alcohol. Is this good to use or just stay with Eastwoods converter? I am going to need a lot more an it gets expensive and was told the phosphoric acid and alcohol works better. Any thoughts on this? Thanks

 

[BurtEggley]

you have my sympathies. That is a lot of work and do wear the best mask you can. Phosphoric acid needs some red rust to work. It does not convert what is not there.

 

[Kaizen]

I'd stick with their rust converter and their frame paint or something to cover your work. POR15 has a converter as well and you can paint on their stuff. I can testify when done right it works well.
Even with a lift I hate doing stuff like this. Backbreaking and always seems to tear me up.

 

[vpd66]

Ospho is a rust converter that I use. It is sold in all the Home improvement stores (Home Depot, Lowes, and Ace Hardware). I'm sure it is cheaper in cost then Eastwoods rust converter.

 

[mv213]

NAPA sells one, also. They all seem to work pretty much the same.

 

[u2slow]

Phosphoric acid is active ingredient in most rust converters.

I use the Rust-Check aerosol converter/primer product because it's available and easy.

 

[andyvh1959]

I'm always cusrious about the long term results of using a rust converter product followed by something like POR15 on a pickup truck frame. I'm starting a chassis swap project later this year, to mount my 56 Dodge cab and box onto my 2001 Dakota donor chassis. Certainly I'll have lots of frame to clean up and coat for longevity. My goal is to make the 56 pickup on a Dakota chassis as a daily driver, so I plan to protect everything underneath better than was even done at the factory. I don't need a show quality pristine frame, but I do want a clean rust free frame and chassis hardware. I also plan to regularly apply Krown chassis corrosion inhibitor yearly to keep everything protected.

 

[woody367]

so far I have done from the doors forward with all EASTWOOD products. I have had food luck with EASTWOOD. I have never has luck with POR15. Was not sure if the phosphoric acid and alcohol might work better.

 

[wantedabiggergarage]

You have a strong stomach!

 

[whitesco]

I usually hit the bottom of our cars with a wire wheel/brush and some Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer from a rattle can every spring after the snow and salt season seems to be over. It's easy enough and so far it's keeping any surface rust from becoming more than that. Or seems to anyway; I'm waiting for the day I hit a pothole and the car disintegrates into a pile of rust.

 

[woody367]

You have a strong stomach!

I'm doing this lane on my back no. Lyft, I am not 25 anymore.
This getting old *****. 0 if I had the money to spend, I would have sent it out to be done.

 

[LopezBart]

Note that similar (and less advertised, thus less expensive) products are available than POR15; search for aluminum moisture cured polyurethane. I've had excellent results with this type of product, both left as painted and as a primer. Just like POR15, it only wears off one's skin, and filling the container w/ propane from your torch before recapping will make it last a lot longer, esp. in a humid climate.

 

[zendriver]

Even though I was warned here, went ahead and used Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer truck frame. Two coats and still area where rust started seeping though.

Now it just primer and paint or some wool wax I had purchased last fall.

 

[Jazz1]

Use any rust convertor then epoxy primer, rust will be sealed. Many of these rust sealers wont stick to bare metal. Im rebuilding a frame and there is some shiny new steel installed. As usual ill use epoxy primer after wiping frame with Ospho or similar product…

 

[Natty Bumppo]

People either love POR15 or hate it. It gets a bad wrap because there is a sequence of preparatory steps that need to be taken before application or the results will not be great. It also has to be top coated. I use POR15 in areas that are easy to do all the prep work...inside floor of a K5 or K10 for example For frames like the OP is talking about, I tend to use Chassis Saver.

 

[Overboost44]

Ospho is a rust converter that I use. It is sold in all the Home improvement stores (Home Depot, Lowes, and Ace Hardware). I'm sure it is cheaper in cost then Eastwoods rust converter.

This is. what I use. I found it on Ace Hardware website when I was trying to buy it. It was a special order item and I guess they forgot to update the pricing because it was less than half of what everyone else was charging. Got 4 gallons. One for myself and 3 for others. No shipping either. Right now, I see it listed at $17.99 for a quart. Not bad.

 

[545_days]

I have used concrete etching solution. Don't spill it on the garage floor LOL.

 

[WildBill]

Apparently POR15 is either incredibly hard to use correctly or varies greatly in quality. I've had to deal with cleaning that junk off a ton of other people's projects and have never seen it work worth a ****. Many big chunks of hard black tar pulled off with completely destroyed rusted metal underneath. Currently dealing with that on my 78 bug, PO used that chit all over. I had to toss the gas tank he coated in it, and the floors were pretty nice and just had surface rust but now they are a big mess from the POR15 he stuck on after we made a deal on the car. Thought he would help me out by doing the floors with it. Count me in the hate it camp having never seen it work. Might look great for 6-12 months, but not long term.

I have used all the Eastwood products for a long time without any issue, and stuff I have used their converters and other products on still look good 20 years later.

 

[NYBODYMAN]

I think the issue with POR 15 is that people don't apply it properly and follow the pre-application steps. They just apply the POR 15 and call it a day which is what you don't do.

 

[yhprum]

Maybe you could make some rust removing gel you could spray on and later wash it off.
Here is one method. There are a few different t variations, it most basically add corn starch to yiur liquid of choice.

PS have you considered some type of lanolin spray protection, this stops rust dead in its racks wherever it touches.

 

[finn]

Apparently POR15 is either incredibly hard to use correctly or varies greatly in quality. I've had to deal with cleaning that junk off a ton of other people's projects and have never seen it work worth a ****. Many big chunks of hard black tar pulled off with completely destroyed rusted metal underneath. Currently dealing with that on my 78 bug, PO used that chit all over. I had to toss the gas tank he coated in it, and the floors were pretty nice and just had surface rust but now they are a big mess from the POR15 he stuck on after we made a deal on the car. Thought he would help me out by doing the floors with it. Count me in the hate it camp having never seen it work. Might look great for 6-12 months, but not long term.

I have used all the Eastwood products for a long time without any issue, and stuff I have used their converters and other products on still look good 20 years later.

That’s my experience. The rust just works its way under the Por15, and eventually you’re left with a soft, somewhat flexible sheet of the stuff peeling off the metal.

not worth the price, and when it eventually fails, you have a mess to try to scrape off. I’ve used it on a half dozen cars over the years, and it’s never been a good fix. Looks ok for a couple of years, but that’s it.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... Forget 'bout the rust converters, 'n use Fluid Film, or Wool Wax to stop any further rust,....