So I bought a shipping container and have turned it into a storm shelter. I am burying this thing in the ground. It has some rust on it but for the most part it is in good shape. I want to apply something on this container that will stop the rust that is there and prevent it from rusting. Keep in mind it will be completely buried and will be getting wet I'm sure.
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Rust issue
- Thread starter ajhester
- Start date
Rust
Banned
Im sure there are lots of fun chemicals to apply, but i think the cheapest way would be a foundation coating, like a tar but you can apply it with a roller.
KPSquared
Well-known member
You could coat the whole thing with a good box liner but the prep would be hell. . .actually, the prep is gonna **** with whatever you do just because there is so much surface area. . .
Unless you get a complete seal and a good bond to the steel, anything you bury is gonna rust. Maybe coat it in that grease those airplanes from the war were shipped in. . .
Unless you get a complete seal and a good bond to the steel, anything you bury is gonna rust. Maybe coat it in that grease those airplanes from the war were shipped in. . .
Busted_Knuckles
Well-known member
What ever you decide to coat it with, be sure and convert or remove the rust, because it will continue to oxidize under the coating, even if you're not in contact with the ground. It would be the same as painting over rust, looks good for a short period, until your realize you have defoliation going on under your coating.
In this case, youd have it in the ground and never know its still oxidizing, because you would never see it. If you lucky, you will out live the steel, or in other words, it will take longer to rust out than the rest of your life.
The soil you drop it into will also factor in how long it lives or rots out. Ive seen petro tanks made of steel come out the ground that where buried in a natural sand "vein". They where in the ground for 25 years, bare steel, not coated and they looked danm near new on the bottom half (they where round tanks), because water just ran past them through the sand/soil.
The foundation sealer sounds like a good idea for a top coat.
In this case, youd have it in the ground and never know its still oxidizing, because you would never see it. If you lucky, you will out live the steel, or in other words, it will take longer to rust out than the rest of your life.
The soil you drop it into will also factor in how long it lives or rots out. Ive seen petro tanks made of steel come out the ground that where buried in a natural sand "vein". They where in the ground for 25 years, bare steel, not coated and they looked danm near new on the bottom half (they where round tanks), because water just ran past them through the sand/soil.
The foundation sealer sounds like a good idea for a top coat.
metalman bryan
Member
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2008
- Messages
- 5
por -15
Randy in Maine
Well-known member
If it were me, I would sandblast it, then paint it with POR-15. Then I would coat it with foundation sealer (if it will stick to the POR-15).
If you are really intent upon burying it, I would suggest staying above the groundwater table and would also suggest using about 3' of 2" tire chips all around the container with perforated PVC pipe at the bottom to allow the drainage water to go someplace else. The purpose of the 2" tire chips is to allow for better drainage near the structure and help reduce the "pressure" of the surrounding soils trying to squish it all in. Use a geotextile to keep the soil fines out of the tire chips.
If all retaining walls were built this way, they would not fall over as most do.
If you are really intent upon burying it, I would suggest staying above the groundwater table and would also suggest using about 3' of 2" tire chips all around the container with perforated PVC pipe at the bottom to allow the drainage water to go someplace else. The purpose of the 2" tire chips is to allow for better drainage near the structure and help reduce the "pressure" of the surrounding soils trying to squish it all in. Use a geotextile to keep the soil fines out of the tire chips.
If all retaining walls were built this way, they would not fall over as most do.
Thanks to everyone who has commented. About the structuring of the container I am using 2x2x.25 square tubing with gussets running left to right so the container should be fine but good thought.
Does grinding the rust down and priming it with a xyzlene primer and then painting it with an oil based enamel. How does tha sound.
Does grinding the rust down and priming it with a xyzlene primer and then painting it with an oil based enamel. How does tha sound.
spongerich
Well-known member
How many square feet of rust do you have? I've used some of those rust converter liquids and they work fairly well. Just brush off any loose rust and spray, roll or brush on... let it dry overnight and then prime and paint as normal.
Amazon has Krud Cutter brand for about $25.00 a gallon and they claim it treats 600 sq. ft.
Putting some galvanic anodes in when you install it seems like a really good idea. No matter how well you paint it, there's going to be scratches, etc from burying it and it's gonna start to rust again unless you're in the AZ desert... (and since you're talking about a storm shelter, I'm going to go out on a limb and assume you're not)
Amazon has Krud Cutter brand for about $25.00 a gallon and they claim it treats 600 sq. ft.
Putting some galvanic anodes in when you install it seems like a really good idea. No matter how well you paint it, there's going to be scratches, etc from burying it and it's gonna start to rust again unless you're in the AZ desert... (and since you're talking about a storm shelter, I'm going to go out on a limb and assume you're not)
trbomax
Well-known member
I would dig the hole about 1 foot bigger all the way around and pour concrete in it.You would have a 12" concrete wall with a steel liner then.
Have someone with a commercial sandblast rig come in and blast it, then spray it with a few coats of POR15 or similar product, then get it sprayed with a real foundation coating that will be thick and rubbery. Put some type of heavy mil plastic sheeting or use some fan fold styrofoam over the rubberized coating. This will help protect the coating from impact damage when back filling. Yes, take Randys advise and use 2-3 feet of tire chips, or a a minimum, 2"-3" stone to promote drainage coupled with perforated drain pipes.
Kestas
Well-known member
Do you really need POR-15 if you're down to bare metal?
Well, that's a good point. The POR15 would be a great coating to use certainly, but there are some industrial coatings available from Sherwin Williams and other suppliers that could be used instead. Now, think about this... doing this type of prep, the sandblasting, coating, foundation coating, and drainage work with pipe and porous backfill will not be free, there will certainly be money involved in doing it, and some people may suggest it is not needed or over kill, BUT, it is YOUR project, do you want to have redo it later if it leaks from rusting through or from the sides caving in over time? I think it is WAY cheaper to do it right, once.
bczygan
Well-known member
If it were me, I would sandblast it, then paint it with POR-15. Then I would coat it with foundation sealer (if it will stick to the POR-15).
If you are really intent upon burying it, I would suggest staying above the groundwater table and would also suggest using about 3' of 2" tire chips all around the container with perforated PVC pipe at the bottom to allow the drainage water to go someplace else. The purpose of the 2" tire chips is to allow for better drainage near the structure and help reduce the "pressure" of the surrounding soils trying to squish it all in. Use a geotextile to keep the soil fines out of the tire chips.
If all retaining walls were built this way, they would not fall over as most do.
This! Plus you need a sump pump to remove the water/
This! Plus you need a sump pump to remove the water/
Yes, another good point, money well spent, although depending on terrain he may be able to set this up with a drain if he is near a high point in the property.
FunkyfullWidth
Well-known member
I've seen mixed results with por 15. When i did it on my jeep it was hit or miss. Some spots were rock solid while others have started to peel. I think I would get the whole thing sand blasted, then if you did use por 15, go with the metal etcher, then paint. Honestly, i've had better luck with rustoleum in a can. Roll it on, or brush it on. sandblast,Primer, rustoleum/or whatever, tar gets my vote. And the previously mentioned proper drainage.