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rust-oleum epoxyshield prep?

SS Laser

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Sep 14, 2007
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6
I have a newer garage (about a year and half old) that I want to coat with Epoxyshield pro. I plan to use the clear too.
My question is, will the rust-oleum etch work good enough? Or should I use acid?

Also I have done some reading here with a search. But is there any threads that I should read?

Just want to say this is a very helpful forum. Thanks!
 
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bravenrace

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Nov 13, 2006
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I acid etched mine. It's been down 3 years now and is holding up perfectly except for stains. I didn't use the clear and have been told it would better resist the stains, but I don't know if that''s correct or not.
 

boiler7904

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I used a mix of muriatic acid and water to etch my floor last fall. I actually etched the floor twice because it was still a little smooth for my liking after the first go round.

I'd definitely do the clear. I had a bunch of black paint overspray a couple of weeks after I put the floor down - wiped up with acetone and some elbow grease. Engine oil wipes up easily - usually just a paper towel will do it if you catch it in time.

383 S-10 did a good write up on his experince here.
 
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z28toz06

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Nov 30, 2005
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Connecticut
I just acid etched mine yesterday. 1 part Muriatic acid to 4 parts water. It looks a bit spotty but I folowed the directions on the epoxy shield pro instructions. I have a broom finish floor so It wasnt power troweled like glass.
 
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SS Laser

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Sep 14, 2007
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Hello Guys,

Quick question. I did one coat of acid etch and I still have a couple spots that still repel water. What to do? I did straight acid on one spot but chickened out and hosed it of in a minute.
 
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SS Laser

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Sep 14, 2007
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No info for my last question? I plan to lightly grind the spots with a concrete grinding wheel on a angle grinder. Guess we will see how that works!

I did want to tell you guys that I went to 2 lowes, 1 home depot. No pro!
Lowes could not even find a listing on there computer to even order it.
The lady found it in the rust-oleum catalog. She will check on it tommorow then call me. Just to note I live in PA, about an hour north of pittsburgh.

Take care.
 
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SS Laser

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Lady from Lowes calls back, she can order it. But you have to buy 2 kits of each. I need to call her back to see if I can get a 3rd color with out having to get 4. Looks like my floor will get 2 coats of clear. Will try grinding the spots tommorow.

Take care.
 
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SS Laser

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Hello Guys,

By the time I was prepped and got the material from lowes the floor was colder then I wanted. So I waited. I am going to get back to it soon.

I just rewashed. No parking in there this winter, just foot traffic.

There are still 2 spots that repel water. Is the epoxy going to stick there?
The spots are from a garbage bag that leaked I believe fruit juices.
The spots have turned the concrete dark. Should I grind them more?
Try acid there again?

I have cleaned the floor about 4 times with mean green. Acid etch 2 times.
Washed the floor another 6 times at least. To get the soap and acid cleaned up. I ground the sports a little and they still repeal water.

I want to have the best prepped floor that I can. It seems that a little concrete comes up every time I pressure wash the floor. Not using a very powerful pressure washer about 1200 or 1500psi electric. Hope that is not a problem.

Were is a good place to get the spiked shoes?
How many days after washing the floor can I apply the epoxy?

Any other tips anyone can give me is great. I want to do the best job that I can.

Thanks Guys!
 
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Gar442

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Apr 7, 2008
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Location
Ray Twp. Michigan
Just letting you know I'm out there waiting for an answer to your post too.

I also have the same problem in a couple of spots. I have not done as many steps as you but I have used a degreaser and acid wash. My next step was going to be sanding so we'll see how that turns out. I figure if the stains soaked down into the cement surface sanding will not get down past the problem.
Anyway I'm worried about those spots not holding up.

Anybody out there with a similar prep problem?

SS LASER Do you have an old pair of spiked golf shoes or know anybody that does. Those will work good.

Here are some spiked shoes......too expensive for me though.
http://www.armorpoxy.com/mm5/mercha..._Code=A&Product_Code=SS1&Category_Code=ACADDL
 
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thammel

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Oct 3, 2005
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Location
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I hope this helps you. 4 years ago I applied rustoleum epoxy to my 400 ft^2 garage. The garage was 4 years old then. The floor had numerous messy spots on it. I cleaned up the crud with a putty knife and degreased bad spots with paint thinner. Then I used the Rustoleum supplied floor cleaner and used a stiff push broom and a hose finally to remove any cleaner residue. This was the rustoleum kit you can get at Home Depot. I then applied the epoxy (I used tan) and threw down the paint chips as I did sections. 4 years later it looks great and has held up extremely well. At the time, I think I did not put anything on the floor for at leat a week. From the sounds of it, you're being overly fanatical.

I'm planning a garage addition of 900 ft^2 and will be doing the floor after about 90 days of curing. I'll look into the heavier duty rustoleum kits, but will tell you that the bottom line one is great! My small garage has a cement apron that extends out beyond the garage doors at the bottom (typical). I extended the epoxy to cover this apron. That's the only area where it's worn off - probably due to the rough surface and sun and weather exposure.

Good luck!
Tom
 

Jaguar Fan

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Mar 13, 2008
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Park City for Ski Season; Las Vegas for Poker Seas
Hello Guys,
Were is a good place to get the spiked shoes?
How many days after washing the floor can I apply the epoxy?

I found spikes at a concrete supply store - they were about $20 to $25. Instead, I went to a thrift store and purchased used spiked golf shoes for $10. Ultimately, I found the best pair of used golf shoes at a retail store (part of a chain) called "Play It Again Sports" -- they looked like hell (white patent leather wing tips) but they worked. The tip of the spikes on these were not as pointy as the spikes I saw at a concrete supply store. After walking on the main coat, I could see that true spikes would be better; after broadcasting chips, though, it didn't matter visually.

if you can afford the time, do the plastic sheet test after you think you've waited long enough after washing. Drying times in the desert (about 10% humidity) where I just did a floor were only a few days. Someone else mentioned they waited 2 weeks and didn't bother with the plastic sheet test.

I was told to do the application of each coat (I used a different product than you) late in the afternoon -- you don't want to apply the product, I was told, and have the slab warm up afterwards; you want to apply the product at the time of day when the slab is warmest.

Again, I used a different product than you will... I used a standard (9"?) roller frame and cover. If I had it to do over again, I'd get the bigger one (18"?).

I did not get a good respirator... if I could do it over again, I would spend the $35 or whatever to get an appropriate one to handle solvent fumes.

Let us know how it goes!
 

Jaguar Fan

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Park City for Ski Season; Las Vegas for Poker Seas
I just acid etched mine yesterday. 1 part Muriatic acid to 4 parts water. It looks a bit spotty but I folowed the directions on the epoxy shield pro instructions. I have a broom finish floor so It wasnt power troweled like glass.

How long did you leave the diluted Muriatic acid mix on the floor?

I've read it is possible to purchase muriatic acid in two common strengths: 30% and 15%. The latter is typically sold for use to adjust pH in swimming pools. Which strength did you use?
 
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