Rust prevention in door hems

[whateg01]

I noticed on my edge the slightest hint of rust starting to form at the lower corner of one of the rear doors. There are weep holes, of course, but that doesn't completely get rid of the water that drips into the door cavity. Even with good weatherstripping, a little moisture will get in and collect at the lowest point.

Recently picked up a salvage hood for Mom's compass. Noticed the majority of those in salvage yards listed seam rust. Bought one that was better than the rest for a reasonable price, but it still has the telltale bubbling of paint at the edge of the front hem.

I recently picked up some rust converter for use on the car trailer called corroseal. Paint it on and it converted the rust to a black coating, supposedly sealing it from further rusting. So, having recently seen mention of POR15, I got to thinking, if I dump a little of that into the cavity where the rust is forming, how effective do you think it would be at stopping the existing rust from spreading? Has anybody here done this with success? On the hood, I would pour out the excess after feeling that it was well coated. On the door, I'll not sure how I would get the excess out, but it's a much smaller area anyway.

 

[Sumboodie]

Fluid film

 

[unslow1]

Fluid Film or cavity wax. If you really want to go cheap thick oil.

 

[whateg01]

Fluid film

I thought that was coating too prevent rust. Does it do anything to get rid of the existing rust and stop it from spreading?

 

[Sumboodie]

I thought that was coating too prevent rust. Does it and stop it from spreading?

Yes

 

[4xdog]

Fluid film

Yess!

I had my 2015 Tacoma on the lift last week for its annual Fluid Film spray-down, before starting the c 5000 mile trip through the southwest I’m now taking.

The guys in the shop I use say mine is probably the best Tacoma for its age they’ve seen.

My 2003 Tacoma is almost as good.

 

[whateg01]

Yes

Every time I see it mentioned here, it's related to underbody coating and said to need redone every year. I don't think Mom is going to take the hood off of her car every year to tip it up and pour fluid film in.

 

[Sumboodie]

Every time I see it mentioned here, it's related to underbody coating and said to need redone every year. I don't think Mom is going to take the hood off of her car every year to tip it up and pour fluid film in.

Spray it. It's like a thin grease.

 

[whateg01]

There's not much access to the front hem on the hood. The inner frame covers most of the hood except for about 1/4 of the area in the middle. There are a couple 1" holes that I can get into but the frame and hood roll downward about 4 inches from the front edge. I don't think spray will reach the edge.

 

[4xdog]

Fluid Film only needs to be touched up in areas that get a lot of road spray. And even there it’s probably more than’s strictly needed, because at least on my trucks there’s still what’s likely a protective layer in the splash-and-spray areas.

In a cavity like inside a door, Fluid Film would be a one time job. it wouldn’t go anywhere or be washed off.

FF sell an extension spray tube for their rattlecans with a tiny brass 360° nozzle on the end. It works perfectly for access to many cavities. The normal spray through the fine straw that comes with each can has pretty good reach on its own. For the hoods on my cars I don’t need the extension nozzle.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I thought that was coating too prevent rust. Does it do anything to get rid of the existing rust and stop it from spreading?

If the paint is starting to bubble, it is too late !

If you live in the "rust belt" (any place that uses salt for snow/ice control) if it is more than about 2 or 3 years old, rust gas probably started. About all you can do then (before the paint starts to bubble) is flush them out with steam/hot water and blow them dry on a warm sunny days and use Fluid Film or 3N Cavity Wax. Both of these treatments require re-treating every 1-2 years.

 

[theoldwizard1]

In a cavity like inside a door, Fluid Film would be a one time job. it wouldn’t go anywhere or be washed off.

I would not bet in that !

Road salt water will get in. Keeping the drain holes open an the area just inside the flange CLEAN and dry and re-treated is your only hope.

 

[4xdog]

I would not bet in that !

Road salt water will get in. Keeping the drain holes open an the area just inside the flange CLEAN and dry and re-treated is your only hope.

Well, I'm at 5+ years and there's a good protective film in my doors still. I've seen no need to reapply there. But then, I'm living these days in a borderline rusty zone (Missouri), not like the brutal conditions of my home state (Ohio).

And yes, no matter what one does, keep the door drains clear!

 

[theoldwizard1]

Every time I see it mentioned here, it's related to underbody coating and said to need redone every year. I don't think Mom is going to take the hood off of her car every year to tip it up and pour fluid film in.

Most uncoatings are asphalt based. They crack/ fail with time. Water gets behind them and you know the rest of the story.

Watch South Main Auto channel on YouTube. He is probably one of the few "old fashioned" that will do Fuid Film treatments (he buys it by the 55 gallon drum). Door hem flanges and rocker panels are the worst areas. A DIYer and several spray cans of FF can do just those area in probably a few hours.

FF sell an extension spray tube for their rattlecans with a tiny brass 360° nozzle on the end. It works perfectly for access to many cavities. The normal spray through the fine straw that comes with each can has pretty good reach on its own. For the hoods on my cars I don’t need the extension nozzle.

WOW ! I have never seen that !! PERFECT for DIYers !!!

 

[Youngandfree]

I noticed on my edge the slightest hint of rust starting to form at the lower corner of one of the rear doors. There are weep holes, of course, but that doesn't completely get rid of the water that drips into the door cavity. Even with good weatherstripping, a little moisture will get in and collect at the lowest point.

Recently picked up a salvage hood for Mom's compass. Noticed the majority of those in salvage yards listed seam rust. Bought one that was better than the rest for a reasonable price, but it still has the telltale bubbling of paint at the edge of the front hem.

I recently picked up some rust converter for use on the car trailer called corroseal. Paint it on and it converted the rust to a black coating, supposedly sealing it from further rusting. So, having recently seen mention of POR15, I got to thinking, if I dump a little of that into the cavity where the rust is forming, how effective do you think it would be at stopping the existing rust from spreading? Has anybody here done this with success? On the hood, I would pour out the excess after feeling that it was well coated. On the door, I'll not sure how I would get the excess out, but it's a much smaller area anyway.

Guys have poured por15 into frame holes to coat the inside of frame rails. I'd pour the corroseal since you have it.

 

[Sumboodie]

That carrolseal decent stuff? It the same as the rust conversion in the $12 rattle can?

 

[whateg01]

That carrolseal decent stuff? It the same as the rust conversion in the $12 rattle can?

Too soon to tell how long it lasts or how well it seals up the surface but the guy who recommended it to me for the trailer has been using it for a long time. He fixes up old trailers and builds new ones using used parts like axles. Coat a rusty axle with the stuff and it looks like black paint after it's done doing its thing. I used it on my trailer and the receiver hitch on my truck and so far, 6 months or so, it's still there doing looking like not rusty stuff.

 

[racecougar]

I'd agree that a cavity wax like FluidFilm is the way to go here.