Rust Removal by Electrolysis - 5 gallon bath size

[Firefyter-Emt]

The negative "bolt" has two wires with clips on them inside the tank (Later moved to the outside of the tank so they are not stored in the water) I did this so my charger never came in contact with the water when in use.

My web-page is here: http://ct-web2.unh.edu/lee/electrolysis.htm

and you asked for a part photo, how is this?

Oh, and I do have a sandblast cabinet too, however there are times you do not want to use sand over the bath method. For example, the water bath will allow small bolts rusted solid to be removed. The sandblast cabinet will not do this for you. I had a Reeves drive motor mount that was akin to a drill press vice in design. The screw and the rods were frozen solid. After a day in the tank, gentle pressure on the hand wheel allowed it to spin free and smooth.

Here is a page about my free sandblast cabinet, click the link to see the after photos.
http://ct-web2.unh.edu/lee/sandblaster.htm

 

[KenS]

My web-page is here: http://ct-web2.unh.edu/lee/electrolysis.htm

Thanks for the link. I really enjoyed touring your web site. (I was hoping to see the Gates tire machine with new paint like the rototiller!) The sandblast cabinet and Wilton vice turned out excellent.

What steps did you take to give the brace and "eggbeater" drill their beautiful polish?

 

[e-tek]

Nice job on the sand blaster resto - but if you ever actually use it, you won't want to be storing your chainsaw - or anything else with moving parts - under it!!

 

[JebNY]

I have used the electrolysis method numerous times over the last 5 years. I don't have a fancy setup just some assorted containers of different sizes and shapes and setup whichever one fits what I am de-rusting.

For many applications it is better than sandblasting, even if it is slower. It retains the original finish of the metal, and only removes rust not paint and metal. I use water and 3M scuff pads to clean the black residue off when it is finished.

Here are a few things that I have done with great results:

old tools - comes out looking like a good, well taken care of old tool not a new tool
old car jack - retained some original paint which I wanted to preserve
cam shaft and crank - light rust, came out in usable shape, no bearing scaring

I also use stainless as an electrode, I go back and forth on the safety issue. No noticeable erosion.

I use CRC machine/tool spray oil after I'm done to keep the part from re-rusting. It dries with a light waxy coating.

JebNY

 

[sickboi55]

would this process remove chrome? i have some bike parts that are chrome with some rust spots, id like to remove the rust not the chrome.

 

[Firefyter-Emt]

Thanks guys, yes... it gets used a LOT in fact, it's amazing how often it comes in handy when it is all set up and ready to go. I did not honestly get all that fussy with it, in fact it is only half painted! I covered the walls with my drop cloths and sprayed the rustoilum from a gun with the cabinet in place! I figure if I ever more it I can paint the rest of the sides. All I did was knock off the loose rust and sprayed it with that rusty metal primer before I painted it. So far it is holding up great and looks as good pretty good.
I often toss in small stuff that needs to be cleaned, but not right away and hit them when I am doing something else.
Yes, I am a bad chainsaw owner... It's not used often, but is a pain to clean when I need it! I really should make a box to place over it.

The Gates is in my cellar next to the compressor so I doubt it will ever be restored, but it does come in handy at times!

The braces were cleaned on a wire wheel and buffer while the wood was cleaned, sanded and given a couple coats of lacquer. The egg beater was cleaned much the same, but the black gear was powder-coated. The red "stain" was a test, it's just some red food dye before the lacquer finish and its still on there so I guess it worked!

I really need to update some pages, but my copy of Frontpage was lost so I need to get a new copy.

PS, yes it will leave any "undamaged" chome alone, however you will probably have some rust under the chrome that may flake off.

 

[motorsportsaddict]

I've used it with great success. I bought a Harbor Freight charger with Starting boost and a small inflatable swimming pool. I completely disassembled my 52 Ford F1 pickup and rotated the parts thru the pool with the charger. All of the rust was gone when I pulled the parts out. I pressure washed them and all the paint in addition to the black coating came off. Then I coated the parts in Zep metal prep (phosphoric acid formula) and wiped it off. Then parts are ready for bodywork. I used old brake drums as the electrodes. Also I bought plastic trash cans that I use pretty regularly. I always pressure wash the stuff when it comes out of the bath and hit it with metal prep. That way you don't have to worry about the parts rusting.