Rust removal considerations for tools with dipped handles

[sac02]

I've been doing my research by searching and reading up on the various rust removal methods. One question that I have not seen addressed is: what about tools with dipped handles?

I picked up a set of Mac pliers for cheap, but they had sat unused for a while and have started to gather some rust. At first I figured that I would try vinegar because it's simple and I already have it in my pantry, but the thing that stopped me was the dipped handles on the pliers.

If I fully immerse the pliers in vinegar (just lay them in a shallow tupperware bin), should I be concerned about the vinegar seeping into the dipped handles and continuing to attack the base metal after I have rinsed and neutralized the exposed parts of the tool (since I would be unable to rinse out the vinegar that had seeped under the dip overnight)?

 

[SASORacing]

You might need to reglue the plastic handles back on if they are slipping. Vinegar is a great rust remover, it needs to soak for a few days. Also everyday you should be taking a wire brush and scraping off the loose layer of rust. Usually 4-5 days is enough for videgar to work like this.

Neutralize in baking soda, and I would mist them with a light dust coat of black high temp paint. glue the handles back on if they need it.

 

[jakemac]

Use a quart paint cup and put the pliers in nose first with the rust remover liquid only going up to where the handles start.

 

[Mohawk Dave]

Evaporust will clean the handle. It WON'T hurt it.

 

[markl]

X2 for Evaporust, stuff works great and is reusable and works better than vineger. $8.99 a qt at Harbor Freight.

 

[SASORacing]

Use a quart paint cup and put the pliers in nose first with the rust remover liquid only going up to where the handles start.

thats what i was thinking too, just dont dip the rubber handle.

 

[toplessHO]

I dip them in OSPHO without submersing the handles.
It will phosphate coat and remove rust.
work the joint while still wet to make sure they dont freeze up.
wipe off with a paper shop towel and let it dry.
Ive got pliers that I treated a few years ago this way and they still have not rusted.

 

[sac02]

Use a quart paint cup and put the pliers in nose first with the rust remover liquid only going up to where the handles start.

Sorry, I should have mentioned: the pliers in question are various types of long reach pliers, from 11" to 15" long. I don't have any cups both tall enough and thin enough. If I use a bucket 12" tall, it is also wide and will need several gallons. That's why I was wondering if I could get by with laying them in a shallow pool.

Evaporust will clean the handle. It WON'T hurt it.

To clarify, I'm not concerned about the evaporust damaging the handle, I'm concerned about any evaporust the wicks beneath the handle while soaking continuing to damage the base metal if I can't get it all out.

 

[jakemac]

Sorry, I should have mentioned: the pliers in question are various types of long reach pliers, from 11" to 15" long. I don't have any cups both tall enough and thin enough. If I use a bucket 12" tall, it is also wide and will need several gallons. That's why I was wondering if I could get by with laying them in a shallow pool.

You can make your own "dip tank" to any length with a short cast-off piece of 4" PVC pipe and an endcap. Just make sure the cap is sealed well so it doesn't leak.

Alternately, I've used a flat pan and left the handles resting on the edge so that the pliers are angled down into the rust converter (usually EvapoRust or CLR if chromed). Admittedly, this method can be difficult to get the handles (sans plastic covered area) fully dipped, but something is better than nothing.

 

[sac02]

Is one method or another (vinegar, evaporust, etc) safer for this logo? I'm wondering if some of these rust removal methods would also be likely to remove the manufacturer logo. (not my pliers pictured)

I have no clue how the logo is applied - if it's printed, etched, other...

I bought the set of 4 for $15, and I care about the function, not the brand of the pliers... but at the same time, if I can salvage the logo, I'd like to.

 

[jakemac]

I hate imprinted logos. I've lost a few with dipping. Then again, I've lost a few just using a wire wheel as well. You'd think that a manufacturer would want their logo and model number to last for the lifetime of the tool and stamp them. But no, I've even lost lazar etched logos trying to clean off rust.