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Rust removal ... Table saw and jointer

bww_mnm

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 30, 2010
Messages
673
Location
Chicago area
Hi.

I moved and have been mighty lazy on my table saw and jointer top maintenance. Any suggestions on best technique / product to remove the rust?

Thanks.
 
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A_Pmech

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Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
8,002
Location
IL
I like WD40 and a maroon scotch brite pad under a jitterbug sander.

Very fast, no nasty dust and the table ends up nicely polished.
 

thrillho

Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2010
Messages
17
Location
San Diego, CA
+1 on the WD-40 and Scotchbrite pad. Have plenty of paper towels or shop rags handy to clean up the brown slurry it creates. And for sure wear gloves unless you enjoy the spam smell of WD-40 in your skin...

I follow up with a good wipedown with denatured Alcohol. Then finish up with the drylube of your choice.
 

keelan

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Joined
Jul 31, 2013
Messages
135
Location
Kelowna, BC
Save yourself a lot of work, and start with a razor blade. Throw down a little kerosene, and use the razor to shave the thick rust off; it moves a lot quicker than scrubbing it off with a scotchbrite pad.

Also, forget WD-40 and use Kerosene. Cheaper, and less stinky.

I would suggest waxing the table with paste wax when you're done. It leaves the surface super smooth, and protects it from rust in the future. A re-application of wax before each winter is also a good idea.
 

Tim The Tool Man

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Joined
Mar 1, 2012
Messages
1,520
Location
Lehigh Valley, PA
Save yourself a lot of work, and start with a razor blade. Throw down a little kerosene, and use the razor to shave the thick rust off; it moves a lot quicker than scrubbing it off with a scotchbrite pad.

Also, forget WD-40 and use Kerosene. Cheaper, and less stinky.

I would suggest waxing the table with paste wax when you're done. It leaves the surface super smooth, and protects it from rust in the future. A re-application of wax before each winter is also a good idea.

This is what I do. I might substitute light oil with kerosene once and a while but the process is sound.
 

djjsr

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Joined
Sep 4, 2006
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4,796
Location
In the cornfields
I also have used the WD40/Scotchbrite method. I never have kerosene for anything so I've never tried it. If you use paste wax, be sure you rub it off very thoroughly. You don't want it to transfer to a piece of wood that you're going to finish. Rockler sells some stuff you may want to try instead of wax.

403460491.jpg
 
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rieferman

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Joined
May 18, 2009
Messages
2,586
Location
Collegeville PA (30 min west of Philly)
My woodworking instructor specifically recommends Johnson's paste wax (but I suspect many others are the same formulation) for two purposes: protecting against rust, and making the surface nice and smooth which eases pushing boards across. I usually apply with a rag, let it dry for a few minutes until slightly hazy, and wipe away with a clean rag. Keeps rust away for quite awhile before needing to be applied again. Doesn't transfer to your work piece.

And, +1 on wd40. I use steel wool because it's what I have laying around.
 

PCO6

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Joined
Dec 25, 2008
Messages
4,573
Location
Newmarket, Ontario
It's hard to tell how rusty it is without photos but I've used naval jelly with a scotch brite pad followed by WD40 in similar situations.
 

Davefr

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Joined
Jan 7, 2010
Messages
11,815
Location
OR
Hi.

I moved and have been mighty lazy on my table saw and jointer top maintenance. Any suggestions on best technique / product to remove the rust?

Thanks.

I use about a 220 grit disc on a pneumatic DA and it takes about 1-2 minutes assuming the rust is light surface rust.

After that, clean the surface and then rub in Varathane #66 natural oil and then wipe it off. You just want it to soak into the pores of the cast iron but not build up a surface layer. After a couple days apply Johnson's paste wax.

Repeat the paste wax treatment every few months in the winter. Repeat the whole process every 2-3 years.
 

Mobman924

Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2012
Messages
11
I'm new to the forum here. Long time lurker, first time poster.
I've had very good results with this method:
1. Start with a razor to get the large bits of non metal.
2. Spray top with light coat of wd40 and rub with 000 steelwool. Wipe residue off with rag.
3. Soak steel wool in mineral spirits and scrub. Wipe rusty slurry off with clean rag and repeat until no more rust.
4. Coat top with Johnson's paste wax (or whatever non silicone wax you have non hand)
 

Jackfre

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Joined
Dec 26, 2010
Messages
4,406
Location
N CA
I also have used the WD40/Scotchbrite method. I never have kerosene for anything so I've never tried it. If you use paste wax, be sure you rub it off very thoroughly. You don't want it to transfer to a piece of wood that you're going to finish. Rockler sells some stuff you may want to try instead of wax.

403460491.jpg

I've tried Topcoat and the other specials and over tHe years found nothing special in any of them the Johnson's does as well or better. I had to put my tools up for a couple years some time back and I POR 15'd the tops that were prone to rust. I had to work some getting it off, but I had no rust. Not sure I gained anything by doing it, but it would have driven me crazy if I let them rust.
 
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