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Rust removal the easy way

cgv69

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Jan 11, 2012
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Boone Co., KY
I don't know about you guys but rust is a constant battle with the tools in my shop, especially this time of year with all the humidity. Despite my best efforts sometimes my tools develop rust before I catch it.

Now I have tried just about every method of rust removal including chemical (Naval Jelly), wire wheels, WD-40 and green scotch bright pads, etc. but I recently become aware of another method that may be old news to some of you but it is my new favorite... distilled white vinegar. I have used this now on over a dozen tools with excellent results.

Basically all you do is soak the tool in the clean distilled white vinegar which can be found very cheap by the gallon in places like Wallyworld. For tools with light rust or crud, 30-45 minutes is long enough. I'll let tools with heavy rust or crud soak for a couple of hours. Once you pull it out I go over it with a brass brush to remove any remaining crud. Whatever is left over generally comes off very easy and I spend less then a minute or 2 with the brass brush before wiping it off and applying some type of rust preventative (Lately I've been trying Eezox).

As an example, here is one of my rustiest tools, my old Estwing hammer that has not be cared for in the least and has spent more then one night out in the yard in the grass or back of the truck. I soaked this thing for maybe 3 hours and the put the brass brush to it. The pics speak for themselves I think...

Estwing_before.jpg

Estwing_During.jpg

Estwing_After.jpg


Not only is this quick and easier then anything else I've tried but as an added bonus, it's less destructive too. No metal is removed and even factory paint and marking may be unharmed. Hard to tell from these pics but the hammer above has factory paint under and in between the claw area. The Vinegar removed the rust and crud but left whatever paint remained intact behind. Same thing for laser engravings if you don't go crazy with the brass brush. Try that with a wire wheel or scotchbright pad.

Only 1 potential caveat, I have purposely not let any of the plastic handles soak in the Vinegar. It may not matter but I'm not sure if it will have any negative affect on the plastic or whatever is used to bond it to the metal and haven't felt like testing it to find out. It may be a non issue but I don;'t know?

That said, this is far and way the easiest and best method I've tried for de-rusting old tools. Just thought I'd share it.
 
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Outlawmws

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This is actually well known here on GJ, but a reaffirmation never hurts.

I use vinegar on plated parts as Electrolysis and other methods will quickly strip plating off, and so will Vinegar, but not quickly. I've only had one bad experience with a plated tool and frankly its plating was dying anyway. However, given time vinegar WILL damage or remove the plating.

I class Vinegar as only one of many ways to remove rust:

My repertoire in most used order:

Electrolysis
fine wire wheel/brass wire wheel
Vinegar
Molassis dilution (slow but amazing results given time)
for paint prep final oxidation removal for iron/steel parts: Phosphoric acid (Jasco Metal etch)

For plated parts: SOS (NOT Brillo!) pad (with soap, if the soap is gone, toss it.
Oil and 0000 steel wool (The oil keeps it from scratching the chrome)
Vinegar


Evaporust is supposed to to a great job without damaging paint or plating but is expensive. I have not yet used it.
 

zuk123

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Mar 25, 2012
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Houston TX via Chicago, Phoenix, LA, and San Diego
cgv69, this thread comes just a couple of weeks too late for me, hopefully it will be right on time for a bunch of folks.

I was using electrolysis for rust, with mixed but generally good results. And I'm pretty good with a wire wheel on my grinder.

Somewhere on GJ I heard about vinegar. OH MY!

I've got a tub of it with stuff soaking almost every night now. It's like a dream how easy rust comes off. And it lasts too. I'm still on my original gallons. It just works slower now. LOOKS NASTY, but still works.

I used it to strip the drawers in a Kennedy machinist box I got for $75. The drawers came out shiny with only minimal scotchbright scrubbing. I was wire wheeling it with only some success. Done with that now; although SOME things still need the wire wheel to finish them off.

Great job bringing this simple and cheap tool back to the forefront.

zuk
 

Eric Nordstrom

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Nov 19, 2007
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334
Location
catoosa,ok
I am a BIG fan of vinegar I have found that apple cider vinegar works better (more acidic?) I'm doing a repaint on a old Snap on tool box that the bottom drawer slides were rusty-bad rusty. Now I'm a believer! When I get the box done I'll post pics. Vinegar try it!-Cheaper than evaporust!

Eric
 

LumpyMusic

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May 2, 2012
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492
Location
Phoenix Arizona USA
How do you guys get to the rust on the inside of sockets and similar hard to reach spots? Soak then toothbrush or some other small brush thingie?


Lumpy

How come you didn't star on Star Trek?
Because Clint Howard beat me for the part of Balok.

www.LumpyMusic.com
 

Farmer Joe

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Sep 28, 2011
Messages
247
Thanks for sharing! I dumped about a quart or 2 of ATF in a container and put rusty sockets in there to soak for a day. Then I brush them of with a soft wire brush and they clean up well
 

Outlawmws

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Outlaw, what's the trick with molasses?

Put about 10-15% molasses to water and mix it up. Set the rusty part in and let it set. It is a conversion process, and like electrolysis won't damage the base iron/steel. It is SLOW however, but does a great job.

My first test piece was a hatchet head that was rusted from being buried, and you know how that gets... I set it in a molasses solution in a Tupperware container, and set that covered on the hood of parked rig I have, in the sun and let it cook for a few days. The warm but not too hot heat helps in this case. Since it was deeply rusted I took it out after a few days and brushed off the loose stuff with a tooth brush. A few days later I took i tout again, and it was about 98% clean, fresh metal after a quick brushing, and truthfully the parts that was not "fresh" looking was the black oxide stuff that was too deep to brush out. That head was really a mess...
 

homesale

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May 16, 2010
Messages
518
Once you remove the rust and apply Eezox, how long will Eezox last before you have to reapply?

70_1_b_31_1.JPG


Is Break-Free CLP more effective than Eezox?

breakfree-clp-12.jpg
 
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cgv69

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Boone Co., KY
Once you remove the rust and apply Eezox, how long will Eezox last before you have to reapply?

Is Break-Free CLP more effective than Eezox?
As to the first part, that I don't know yet I just started using Eezox and along with that I also replaced my toolbox draw liners with Zerust VCI draw liners. I'm going to give it a month and see how it does. If I see 0 signs of rust, I'll give it another 2 weeks to a month and re-evaluate.

As to Eezox vs BF CLP, BF CLP is one of the products I've tried in the past and it works OK but needs to be re-applied often for it to really work (like every 2 weeks or so during humid periods. Tests I've seen online comparing Eezok to BF CLP (and other products) always show Eezok on top, generally by a large margin.

ETA here is an interesting independent just of a number of products... http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_7/502758_index.html
 
Last edited:

homesale

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Eezox is expensive in larger quantity containers. What is the most cost effective rust preventative?
 

Private Lugnutz

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The Authentic Jersey Shore
I am going to keep recommending toiletbowl cleaner (any brand, doesn't matter, but I use TheWorks) until someone else here tries it. Active ingredient is 20% HCL acid. 5 MINUTES. Rinse. Apply oil/wax. Done. There is no quicker, better, or cheaper solution. I won't use anything else except molasses, and I only go to that for plated tools.
 

markf4e

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Delaware
I am going to keep recommending toiletbowl cleaner (any brand, doesn't matter, but I use TheWorks) until someone else here tries it. Active ingredient is 20% HCL acid. 5 MINUTES. Rinse. Apply oil/wax. Done. There is no quicker, better, or cheaper solution. I won't use anything else except molasses, and I only go to that for plated tools.

Do you dilute the toilet bowl cleaner and soak the tool or just wipe it on?
 
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Private Lugnutz

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Do you dilute the toilet bowl cleaner and soak the tool or just wipe it on?

Soak. No dilution. Muriatic acid is fairly mild. You'll see it start working immediately. Just remove the tools after a couple minutes, rinse very well, and oil/wax (I use Johnson's paste) immediately. Use gloves as it will sting if you have cuts etc on your fingers. Every rare once in awhile I've had to take some 0000-grade steel wool or a well-worn brass brush by hand to a stubborn area before rinsing. Rinsing thoroughly and oiling/waxing immediately to permeate the steel is key as HCL strips so well it will actually promote a very light coat of surface rust very soon if you don't.

I have sprayed it on a speeder and a lady's foot pry bar that were too big for my tub (I like the portability/versatility of an old WW2 ammo can...you can also stick things in it upright etc). Same effects.
 

Squankum

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I've got a pair of brake drums I want to clean up the rust off the braking surface on, but I'm not about to spend money on having them turned, because I'm going to turn around and sell them on ebay. Just want them to be purty for the pictures, low cost.

Here's the rub: the drums have a ferrous metal sleeve for the friction surface, the main casting is aluminum. Does this change any of the above suggestions?
 

Outlawmws

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The Aluminum kills it for most of these processes. I'd just sand it off, even wet sanding, will do it, just hit them with WD 40 afterwards to remove the water, and wipe off the excess, then clean that off with alcohol or brake/clutch cleaner.

Are these the old Buick aluminum/steel drums?
 

homesale

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Where can I find a great deal on Apple Cider Vinegar 1 Gallon? Some places sell it for $28 a gallon. At that price I would just buy a new tool instead of salvaging a rusted out tool.
 

nine4gmc

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I just got a few gals of white distilled vinegar from target for like $2.50 ea. been soaking some tools that were in a plastic tool box full of water for what looks like forever. I soaked the lightly rusted ones on top for a day and they all came out great. the worste ones from the bottom have been soaking for two days, I will pull and clean them tonight.
 

homesale

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I have been watching electrolysis and vinegar videos on youtube.

Don't you have to do a lot of scrubbing with vinegar?
Isn't electrolysis better since the rust bubbles off?
 

darkk

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Willimantic, Ct.
I am a BIG fan of vinegar I have found that apple cider vinegar works better (more acidic?) I'm doing a repaint on a old Snap on tool box that the bottom drawer slides were rusty-bad rusty. Now I'm a believer! When I get the box done I'll post pics. Vinegar try it!-Cheaper than evaporust! Eric

A bit of Technical Vinegar Info:

All vinegar is distilled (watered down) to reach a concentration of acetic acid. Most brands use a concentration of 5% acetic acid.

Regardless of whether it is apple cider vinegar, white vinegar or red vinegar, if they have the same concentration of acetic acid (and thus H+ ions, which cause acidity) they will have the same acidity. The type of vinegar doesn't matter, only the concentration of acetic acid.

Check the bottle, some brands will have concentrations as low as 4% acetic acid, and some as high as 8%. As well, vinegar sold for the purpose of preserving food via pickling may have acetic acid concentrations as high as 18%.
 

homesale

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Which chain stores have the higher concentrations of vinegar (1 gal) for sale?
 

BullfrogJohnson

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May 16, 2012
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Charlotte, NC
This is actually well known here on GJ, but a reaffirmation never hurts.

I use vinegar on plated parts as Electrolysis and other methods will quickly strip plating off, and so will Vinegar, but not quickly. I've only had one bad experience with a plated tool and frankly its plating was dying anyway. However, given time vinegar WILL damage or remove the plating.

I class Vinegar as only one of many ways to remove rust:

My repertoire in most used order:

Electrolysis
fine wire wheel/brass wire wheel
Vinegar
Molassis dilution (slow but amazing results given time)
for paint prep final oxidation removal for iron/steel parts: Phosphoric acid (Jasco Metal etch)

For plated parts: SOS (NOT Brillo!) pad (with soap, if the soap is gone, toss it.
Oil and 0000 steel wool (The oil keeps it from scratching the chrome)
Vinegar


Evaporust is supposed to to a great job without damaging paint or plating but is expensive. I have not yet used it.

I wish I would have read this 2 weeks ago. I bought some mac sabina extra long wrenches from a member here that had some rust. Soaked them in white vinegar for a couple hours and it ate the plating off in several places. Now i dont know what to do with them.
 
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cgv69

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Boone Co., KY
Eezox is expensive in larger quantity containers. What is the most cost effective rust preventative?

I use paste wax. I wax all my tools. Even power tools.
As some one who's used both I can assure you that paste wax doesn't work with a **** compared to Eezox. I can't tell you how long the Eezok will last as I've just started using it a couple of months ago and still haven't found the need to re-coat anything yet. That already puts it ahead of paste wax in my experience and is much easier to apply too.

In the current FWW magazine, there is a a pretty large test of different rust protection products (except for Eezox for some reason?) including a few different paste wax's. Their result mirrored my own as far as paste wax not being all that great. In their tests, CRC 3-36 came out on top. Considering that product is easier to find and cheaper then Eezox, that will probably be what I try next.

Where can I find a great deal on Apple Cider Vinegar 1 Gallon? Some places sell it for $28 a gallon. At that price I would just buy a new tool instead of salvaging a rusted out tool.
You don't want apple cider vinegar, you want distilled white vinegar which can be found at wally world in gallons for less then $10
 

GRX

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If going the vinegar route, mix in some table salt. Greatly accelerates the process.
I use paste wax. I wax all my tools. Even power tools.
Agreed. As I have said many times before, wax is the way to go when preventing rust. A can of spray furniture polish (Endust etc ...) is the way to go. Been using it on tools and cast iron engine parts for many years with great success. Bagged and boxed engine blocks return to the light after 10+ years shiny as the day they were machined.
 

Outlawmws

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I have been watching electrolysis and vinegar videos on youtube.

Don't you have to do a lot of scrubbing with vinegar?
Isn't electrolysis better since the rust bubbles off?

Both processes require some scrubbing either with a STIFF nylon brush, or a brass wire brush. Both produce a black crud, as a by product. (So does the molasses process) I wear rubber gloves as it is somewhat messy.
 

beerdog

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Dec 27, 2011
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Buffalo Grove, IL
I just tried vinegar rust removal for the first timeon a bunch of steel punches. Soaked them for 24 hrs. It worked pretty good, but every part had a thick layer of black on them. Is this normal? I wire wheeled it off but is there a better way? Is this preventable?
 
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