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Rust removal

Joined
Jul 3, 2012
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14
I was on a long deployment and then moved duty station so I've had tools and cabinets n storage for almost 2 years. Now I have some serious rust on them and I'm not sure what rust removal technique to use? I was thinking about vinegar in a large bucket or tub, but a lot of the stuff, especially my cabinet drawers and slides, won't fit. Any suggestions? Thanks
 

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Loren871

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Jan 5, 2016
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I've kinda been wonderin this myself. I've had some tools that's been on one of our service trucks that has caught a bad case of rust fever.
 

Wamsutta

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Jan 8, 2014
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Amarillo, Texas
Scotch Brite hand pads are excellent. They remove rust very quickly and they don't scratch too bad.
If the metal has a grain direction, just follow the grain direction and you won't see any scratches at all.

mirka-scotchbrite-fine-grey-medium-red-box-of-20--235-p.jpg
 

four.cycle

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when my step-father gave me his old Craftsman table saw, the top of it was covered with surface rust - not quite as bad as the OP's there - I just rubbed it down with #0000 steel wool and light oil - worked dandy.
 

WWShop

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Aug 25, 2015
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MN
For flat surfaces I've used a orbital sander to get heavier rust off and that has worked well. I personally like using my angle grinder but I need to be careful so I don't re-shape the material I am trying to get rust off of. I agree with others that scotch brite pads work well too.
 

Jim Diesel

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Mar 16, 2016
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Brisbane, Australia
Let the tools soak in Rust Converter. And use a grinder for the larger flat surfaces. Chose a buffing pad or 1000 grit flappy disc, a bit of oil and go to town.
 

Davefr

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I was on a long deployment and then moved duty station so I've had tools and cabinets n storage for almost 2 years. Now I have some serious rust on them and I'm not sure what rust removal technique to use? I was thinking about vinegar in a large bucket or tub, but a lot of the stuff, especially my cabinet drawers and slides, won't fit. Any suggestions? Thanks

Use a DA and start with about 150-180 grit discs. Go to about 220 next. Now wax it or treat it with thinned polyurethane. Wipe it on and then wipe it off.
 

RRmech

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Mar 25, 2009
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Santa Fe, NM
Soak in white vinegar 24 hours, then hit it with an abrasive pad.
Wash off the vinegar with cold water, then dry well.

Steve
 
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ilovevocs

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Jun 26, 2009
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Toledo, Ohio
Sorry for your issues. I don't have much to contribute to the above other than next time you find yourself in the same situation I would purchase some fluid film and apply it to your tools. I have moisture issues in my garage with my machine tools in times of infrequent use and use a product called corrosion X on bare surfaces after I clean my machine. I also coat my season toys in the office season; snowmobiles and dirt bikes. It doesn't have a negative impact on paint, rubber, or electrical connections. With the sled the only thing I do not coat is the clutch faces.
 

johninct

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Dec 21, 2010
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Use a DA and start with about 150-180 grit discs. Go to about 220 next. Now wax it or treat it with thinned polyurethane. Wipe it on and then wipe it off.

That is too rough. You will make scratches.
 

Mark in Indiana

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Aug 11, 2010
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Location
Southern Indiana
I first use a cup wheel on the end of an air sander to remove the heavy rust. Then finish it off with a piece of ScotchBrite attached to an electric sander.

To preserve it (keep the flash rust away), I apply a coat of furniture paste wax to the surface.
 

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G_P

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Jul 11, 2010
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Central CT
If its not deep rust, the flat tables can be cleaned right up by spraying them down with WD40 or any other light oil and then going at them with fine steel wool or an equivalent scotchbrite pad.

If its pitted, You'll have to sand it with progressively finer grits until you get the pits out, but be careful you dont sand in one area too long and end up with a table that is no longer flat.

Johnsons paste wax and other products work great at protecting bare iron tables.
 

Moose364

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Oct 21, 2014
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282
Location
East Texas
Clean it up with a wire brush on a 4 1/2 Grinder, then wipe it down with boiled linseed oil and not worry about rust again, I know it's for wood but works great on metal I keep it on my drill press table and pole, band saw table and my welding table. Guys over on the Wilton vise rebuild thread told me about it, and it works
 

TOOL MASTER

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Apr 25, 2011
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458
thats what the delta saw i bought years ago looked like. just sanded it off and waxed it...still looking good 20 years later
 

MatcoDave

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Apr 9, 2014
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61
Location
Cedarville NJ
On and off hull and bottom cleaner. I used to use it on props and out drives when I detailed boats. I must warn you though - DO NOT let it touch your skin, the vapors of the chemical alone will make you feel like someone is sucking the air out of your lungs and god forbid you inhale some of the fumes it generates when it comes in contact with rust. Buy a new cheap spray bottle and throw it out when you are done. It will be trash by the next time you go to use it anyway. Literally pour or spray on, let sit for a minute or so and rinse off. Wear a respirator or hold your breath and move quick.
 
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Davefr

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That is too rough. You will make scratches.


The original factory milling marks will be way rougher then that. 220 will end up with a nice satin sheen. (ie will look better then new) However he can go as far as he wants with progressively finer grits.
 
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