Rust removal

[TheSasquatch]

Looking to see what is the best way to remove light rust from a tool while being the lightest on the metal. Also best ways to remove rust from a box without damaging existing paint anymore that nessacary. In the past I've always wire wheeled everything but recent reading had told me that is one of the worst things to do. I understand there are mist likely many threads on this but using tapatalk on my phone the search is essentially useless.

I was recently given a few old tool boxes and tools that sat in an older gentleman's garage for quite some time. There are a lot of great tools, some I would like to list to possibly pass on as I have no use for them, but I want to make sure they are in good shape before I put them into service or list them to sell.

Is clr a decent rust remover with little to no damage? I've also read about using white vinegar? Any help is appreciated.

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[Mintgrun]

search for "electrolysis rust removal".
it's awesome.

as for painted things, I have had good results with a product called Rust-Off, which I bought at a Benjamin Moore store. It is basically a 5% Oxalic Acid wash, which removes rust stain and dissolves light rust. I like to neutralize the surface with O.A.N. (oxalic acid neutralizer). As it says on the label, "test in an inconspicuous area".

Both of these leave the surface prime for new rust, so treat accordingly.
hth
Tom

 

[7th Kahuna]

I have a neighbor who acquired a vintage 1960's Delta Drillpress that have never been assembled, unfortunately the boxes had been exposed to some moisture. He wet paper towels in vinegar and laid them over the machined surfaces then covered them with plastic wrap. After a couple hours he removed the towels and neutralized the vinegar. The surface was then lightly polished. Worked great.

Years ago I restored a vintage Schwinn bicycle that had rust on the chrome. I used wadded aluminum foil and water to clean it up. Worked great, no scratches. Might work well for a painted box with light rust.

Those are perhaps the two least aggressive approaches I know. There are a whole range of other options, just depends on what you are trying to accomplish and what you have to work with.

 

[Outlawmws]

CLR and white vinegar will remove rust. too long wilt etch the steel and at least in the case of vinegar, damage chrome.

Electrolysis is great, but also removes most paint... and don't do plated tools...

Molasses about 10 to 1 with water is great, but very slow and works best with it heated slightly (setting it out in the sun is enough)

Rust off and Evaporust both do well but are pricey against other options. With Rust off you need to "follow the directions" as it doesn't work well cold.

Wire wheel: I use it quite a bit, BUT only the fine to very fine wheels. Braided not at all...

 

[TheSasquatch]

CLR and white vinegar will remove rust. too long wilt etch the steel and at least in the case of vinegar, damage chrome.

Electrolysis is great, but also removes most paint... and don't do plated tools...

Molasses about 10 to 1 with water is great, but very slow and works best with it heated slightly (setting it out in the sun is enough)

Rust off and Evaporust both do well but are pricey against other options. With Rust off you need to "follow the directions" as it doesn't work well cold.

Wire wheel: I use it quite a bit, BUT only the fine to very fine wheels. Braided not at all...

With the rust off and evaporust, does that damage paint? The snap-on box is in great condition but the waterloo has a lot of rust in the bottoms if the drawers.

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[Outlawmws]

IIR Evaporust is generally paint safe. No idea on RustOff.

Check directions and cautions.

 

[Mintgrun]

I have not seen rust off damage paint, but then there are many types of paint out there. I have had good results with old tins and tool boxes, which had paint stained by rust. This is what I feel it does best, is to remove rust stains. I was quite disappointed to put a rusty tool in a ziploc baggie containing Rust Off. Not suggesting it for heavily rusted items. I just looked it up online and went and read the bottle. It is vague. does not mention paint. Just says use on any surface... which sounds safe. No mention of neutralizing it, just says rinse, or wipe dry.

With heavy rust on flat surfaces, I often reach for a fresh razor blade and shave it off. 96% comes off as brown powder. That is my first step if I get rusty dried water drips on a table saw, or something. I hate it when it leaves shiny scratches though, so I am very careful about it. My shop is full of shiny brown tables on the old tools.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

I found a vintage butter jug with a rusty metal lid. soaked it in evaporust for a bit, and was amazed at how all the ink had survived, then in one swipe of a towell, I rubbed all that off. Its in good shape, just lost most of the lettering.

 

[d.mcfarland]

Honestly, for light rust the best in my opinion is steel wool/scotch bright and wd-40 or something similar. The liquid does it's chemical job and the abrasive does the mechanical job. I always start light and move up the ladder versus wishing it didn't go so aggressive initially.

 

[TheSasquatch]

I picked up some evaporust from o'reilly's last night so I will update with pics shorty.

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[Mintgrun]

I just went to the evaporust site to read up on it. It contains no acids. Apparently bacteria do all the work. That's wild.

https://www.evaporust.com/evapo-rus...kOFr8x8Z47nH-DKupAICij0p9tBnmQSl7caAhAj8P8HAQ

It also says it does not remove rust stains. I felt like that was the best thing Rust-Off had to offer, taking stains out of paint.

It seems like most liquid rust 'treatment' products contain either phosphoric or oxalic acid. Bacteria is a new one for me.

 

[Jolomite]

I just went to the evaporust site to read up on it. It contains no acids. Apparently bacteria do all the work. That's wild.

https://www.evaporust.com/evapo-rus...kOFr8x8Z47nH-DKupAICij0p9tBnmQSl7caAhAj8P8HAQ

It also says it does not remove rust stains. I felt like that was the best thing Rust-Off had to offer, taking stains out of paint.

It seems like most liquid rust 'treatment' products contain either phosphoric or oxalic acid. Bacteria is a new one for me.

I wasn't aware that bacteria were used in this way. That might suggest a limited shelf life


ANyway, thanks for the info. I agree- rust stain removal is important. I've always uses a phosphoric acid product called "Krud Kutter Must For Rust." On steel it leaves a naked, open pore finish. I usually finish a piece with a light wire wheeling which buffs it a little.

 

[Maui]

Jolomite, Evapo-rust has an indefinite shelf life. In the link Mintgrun provided it says,

EVAPO-RUST has an indefinite shelf life* and can be used over and over until it absolutely stops working. On average, one gallon de-rusts up to 300 pounds of light to moderately rusted steel.

Maui

 

[Mintgrun]

I wiped this box with rust off, mostly for show and tell.

 

[dadsEH]

I picked up some evaporust from o'reilly's last night so I will update with pics shorty.

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[Zeke]

Been using The Must for Rust made by Krud Kutter for ages. You can use it over a painted surface to kill the rust but only clean the paint. YMMV/

 

[Mintgrun]

I looked it up and learned that The Must For Rust contains Phosphoric Acid.
That seems to be the other big one.
I see Oxalic Acid as dissolving rust and Phosphoric as converting it.
If I am wrong about this, I welcome any insight.

Ospho is another Phosphoric Acid containing product, which I have used a lot.
It is a good one for prepping bare metal for paint.
The key is to get all the thick scale off, so all it has to deal with is the surface.

 

[vintage nut]

If I'm using acid I normally use citric acid, available in powdered form from winemaking stores. Most often I use fine scotchbright or steel wool and wd40 for delicate stuff (old gun cleaning trick)
For castings that will be painted they get the wire wheel. Bead blasting can be good too

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