Rust removal

[GMCAMARO]

I am removing rust from the bottom of my 1958 Chevrolet Fleetside.
I have a variety of tools including wire brushes blaster, Flapper wheel, grinding disc.

Each one has their own problems. Things like the discs are expensive, the wire brushes and discs can not get into tight places. The spot blaster is also unable to get into tight places.

My question is, what tool would you use to get into a tight place in order to remove surface rust and paint?

 

[Bender78]

I have good success using a needle scaler. These can remove a lot of rust and scale without using up consumables like abrasive discs and wire wheels.

http://www.tptools.com/Product.aspx?display_id=2573

 

[digdug18]

How heavy is the rust? Is panel replacement not a option? You could try a rust converter, eastwood makes 2 varieties.

 

[GMCAMARO]

How heavy is the rust? Is panel replacement not a option? You could try a rust converter, eastwood makes 2 varieties.

Just light surface rust and paint. Panel replacement is truly unnecessary as it is very light. I am getting ready to prime the bottom of the truck and I need to get the old paint and undercoating off along with light surface rust.

 

[garfunkle24]

Media blaster is the only way to get into the tightest of corners.

 

[6768rogues]

I save the glass beads from my cabinet when they need replacing. I use them again in a pressure blaster outdoors for things that are too large for the cabinet. I was putting down a large tarp for cleanup, but my son bought a dumpster truck and a bunch of roll off containers. Now I borrow a roll off container, put my stuff in and get in, close the back door and blast away. All the mess is contained.

 

[e-tek]

I have good success using a needle scaler. These can remove a lot of rust and scale without using up consumables like abrasive discs and wire wheels.

http://www.tptools.com/Product.aspx?display_id=2573

Wow - In all my years of using every other tool to remove rust, I have never seen one of those!!!

Media blaster is the only way to get into the tightest of corners.

Pretty much. But if you don't have one....

 

[KrisKustomPaint]

sometime the toughest problems have simple answers. Old, old, old body man i used to work with showed me this trick: if you need to get light rust or paint out of cracks, corners or crevices, just use a good pocket knife. Scrapes the toughest corners down to shiny metal faster than anything else. A bit tedious, but such is restoration work.

 

[garfunkle24]

I certainly wouldn't use a needle scaler on body panels, it would leave a very rough surface.

I haven't heard the knife trick before, will try tomorrow.

For a fussy ****** like me doing a lot of light fab and modification work, paint/rust in tight corners is the bane of my existence.

 

[GMCAMARO]

I have media blasters, I also have one of those small spot blasters that recycles the media. It works but large amounts of the media are not recycled, also it does not get into really tight places. I was looking for something that was not too messy but would get into tight places.
Also because I live in the cold tundra of Massachusetts where the men are men and so are the women(just look at p-town, MA).
I wanted to do the removal rust and paint now and I still have 2 feet of snow in front of my garage door.
I purchased a Needle Scaler yesterday.

 

[MP&C]

TP Tools® ProLine Needle Scaler
Great for cleaning and restoring automotive or truck frames prior to painting.

Notice is says for cleaning FRAMES. These are primarily used in shipyards to remove paint down to bare metal for refinishing ships (i.e.: really thick metal). They work, but are very noisy, so I hope you have some hearing protection. I would not even consider using them on a body panel, Having seen these in operation, I'm quite sure you'll end up with some stretching/distortion.

 

[milkovich]

Robert's right, the needle scaler will detroy the panel. I don't even like finish they leave on rearend housings and frames.

Assuming you don't blast it (blasting can warp panels) I use a 6" DA on big flat areas, then down to 3" rolocs, then down to 2" rolocs, then down to a dremel if it's REALLY that important.

Some of the spot blasters with a little hopper look interesting if you don't have a pot blaster.

 

[zebco]

For small areas take a 1/4 inch rod custom fit for your length,slot the end with a hacksaw,insert a piece of sandpaper,use in a drill and sand away.Not fast but can get into some tight spots.

 

[z28snksknr]

This:

Plus this:

The attachments can get you into corners very well, and you reclycle a good portion of the media.

 

[Bender78]

Notice is says for cleaning FRAMES. These are primarily used in shipyards to remove paint down to bare metal for refinishing ships (i.e.: really thick metal). They work, but are very noisy, so I hope you have some hearing protection. I would not even consider using them on a body panel, Having seen these in operation, I'm quite sure you'll end up with some stretching/distortion.

Agreed. The OP said the "Bottom" of his truck and didn't specifically mention body panels, I assumed he was working on the frame. Small needle scalers like the one I use do an excellent job cleaning up frames and body mounts. I'm sure the ones used in shipyards are quite a bit larger. Your results may vary.

 

[GMCAMARO]

This:

Plus this:

The attachments can get you into corners very well, and you reclycle a good portion of the media.

I started using that and it did a fine job. It did not completely catch all the glass so inside the garage, it was a bit messy. But I am using it with the attachment. I found that if you could not seal it to the target it was messy.

 

[mad57]

Hell brush on vinager with a chip brush and let it sit should wipe off with a rag.

 

[GMCAMARO]

Every tool in this thread I now have.

This tool http://www.tptools.com/Product.aspx?display_id=2573 was a nice surprise I just got it and used it. It did an excellent job of removing the undercoating and paint. It did little for the surface rust, but wow it did a great job on the material I mentioned. Saved a fair bit of money also as like someone mentioned no consumables.

I also used the speed blaster, in retrospect it did the best job on the surface rust with glass bead. At least with glass beads no concern about bent metal. It is however extremely messy, and unpleasant.

Thanks every one for your input.

 

[ZRX61]

Horrible Fright have a hand held blaster like the one pictured with the attachments. Works quite well, no complaints

 

[KrisKustomPaint]

anyone try out the knife trick?

 

[Bender78]

Every tool in this thread I now have.

This tool http://www.tptools.com/Product.aspx?display_id=2573 was a nice surprise I just got it and used it. It did an excellent job of removing the undercoating and paint. It did little for the surface rust, but wow it did a great job on the material I mentioned. Saved a fair bit of money also as like someone mentioned no consumables.


Thanks every one for your input.

I'm glad it worked out for you.

 

[Jolomite]

I worked in a shop restoring metal artifacts, mainly swords and other edged weapons from around the world (catalog order antique stuff.) There, and in subsequent experience, I find that a scraper/ razor is a really handy tool. You can removed a lot of thick rust while not disturbing the adjacent surface (such as rough grit sand paper which in my experience tends to expand the work area). After scraping down into cleaner metal you should be able to use much lighter grit sandpaper to start.

Razor scraping is something to consider especially if you cannot get the part into an electrolysis tank, though you know what kind of "tight corners" we're talking about here.

Best of luck

 

[DARK AGE 53]

I have good success using a needle scaler. These can remove a lot of rust and scale without using up consumables like abrasive discs and wire wheels.

http://www.tptools.com/Product.aspx?display_id=2573

Interesting tool, not the same brand but I found several vids on youtube about these...here's one http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=yJRf6zrulC4

 

[TommyK]

Interesting tool, not the same brand but I found several vids on youtube about these...here's one http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=yJRf6zrulC4

That's how we take lead paint off of bridges. Never saw it do much on rust.

 

[wryt01]

I've spent many of days using needle scalers, the Navy calls them Needle Guns; just be very careful with them or they can easily turn whatever your tackling into a golf ball surface.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

I like the idea of this needle scaler. I've got a Christmas gift certificate for Harbor Freight, so I think I just figured out what I'm going to use it on!

 

[metalmagpie]

I have used needle guns in shipyards and I own one now. They have their places. They're really useful for getting tough slag off of weld beads. Anyway, before everyone gets all choked up about having to own one, be aware that they beat the c**p out of your hands and wrists. Carpal tunnel city. So if that's a consideration for you (it sure is for me) be judicious about letting in high vibration tools like needle guns.

One thing I have used on rust on the underside of vehicles is a pneumatic die grinder with a small knotted wire brush rated for 25,000 rpm. Those work well but don't go all the way into corners. Of course, I use bigger angle grinders with cup or disk wire wheels to get as much as I can first.

Then there are 3M bristle discs, and 3M Rolocs with Scotchbrite (I like the brown).

Then there is electrolytic derusting.

Then there is phosphoric acid (see e.g. Jasco Metal Prep, or naval jelly).

Finally, there is plain acid dipping (pickling) usually followed by oiling. If there's a galvanizing shop near you, try asking them to run your parts through the first stages of galvanizing, just the caustic / acid / hot water cycle. But be sure you stay on them like a hawk to get your parts as soon as you can or they'll flash rust all over again.

metalmagpie