Rust Remover Gel

[sunfire]

I am looking for a Rust Remover to remove rust from the wheel and hub/brake area of my car. I live in the salt belt. So my plan is to first remove the rust where I can. Then apply anti seize so the wheel parts won't seize together. At least prevent it enough so I can take the parts off in the future.

It must have a gel or thick consistency for vertical surfaces so products like evapo-rust won't work. Some places are actually part of the car's frame so liquid rust removal products won't work.

The best I've found is Naval Jelly Rust Dissolver by Loctite which is available at Home Depot. Is there something better out there that I can buy locally? Safe for painted surfaces. And also reasonably priced for less than $20.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[n8n]

There's no point in removing rust from the rotors... they'll just rust again. Even if you paint them.

I use Centric Premium and/or High Carbon rotors on my own cars and they have a black coating on them that is pretty good (but not great.)

For other parts I like electrolysis...

 

[sunfire]

There's no point in removing rust from the rotors... they'll just rust again. Even if you paint them.

I use Centric Premium and/or High Carbon rotors on my own cars and they have a black coating on them that is pretty good (but not great.)

For other parts I like electrolysis...

Where the wheel hub attaches to the car's chassis is big problem spot. Anti size on the rotors has helped out a lot. But I want to really get all of the rust off the contact areas on the rotor and wheel.

I'm really looking for rust remover products.

 

[michael murder]

I used naval jelly on a rusty set of headers. I followed the instructions and it didn't really do much at all for the rust. I wasn't impressed.

I can't remember what brand I bought but it was at a commercial autoparts store.

Also, I'm pretty sure it isn't paint safe.

 

[dwysywd]

Degrease it and then apply liberal amounts of chassis saver or por-15. Works great. Easy, but messy to apply. You can even buy the por in spray cans. You can't get rid of that much rust but you can treat and protect what you have. Remember, rust is from the top of metal down and needs oxygen. These products remove oxygen from the equation.

I have it on my 83 Dodge. My buddy who turned me onto it put it on his 25 year old truck over 10 years ago. Still looks great and it was a michigan truck before he applied the product and 10 years later it hasn't flaked and is still a good solid MI truck.

Sent from my bag phone...

 

[espyking83]

Naval jelly is the biggest crock of **** out there, IMO. Cant imagine how much money I threw away on that. Use a wire brush and alcohol (or sandblaster, just make sure you clean before the flash rust) to remove excess rust, then use a polishing wheel to make it shine. Clean it, then douse it with Marvel or another good oil. Dont do any of this on rotors, as said before you will never really prevent it. Just get the surface rust off and clean with alcohol.

If some of you guys are getting into restoration, loads of posters on here can help you with an electrolysis tub. Also, anti-sieze is good, just make sure you clean and remove any dirt, grease, or other chemicals before you apply it. The best way to minimize rust on anything is to cleAn the metal or paint, especially if you live in an area where they use chemicals on the road during the Winter months.

 

[MacTexas]

I tried naval jelly on some old rusted knives and I was not impressed. Save your money.

 

[stikman56]

Where the wheel hub attaches to the car's chassis is big problem spot. Anti size on the rotors has helped out a lot. But I want to really get all of the rust off the contact areas on the rotor and wheel.

I'm really looking for rust remover products.

Look up Evapo-Rust, and "The must for rust" Evapo-Rust is said to be the best out there now. I've used the other one for years, (was called ,I think NP7 before, if I remember it right) and it works. Slow, but it works.

 

[PCO6]

I've been using naval jelly for decades for light rust on sheet metal and it works great. It's not for what the OP is talking about though (wheels, cast pieces, etc.). You would also not get good results on rusty body parts for example.

I have restored cars where after basic body work has been done or is still in process and the car sits for a while before painting. It is ideal in situations like this. For example, I had a set of MGA fenders dipped at Redi-Strip over 15 years ago. They sat in my shed since then and developed a good amount of surface rust. With about a half an hour of work they looked like they did after the initial stripping.

I put it in an old ketchup bottle, squirt it on, work it in with steel wool, rinse it off with water and dry it. I wouldn't waste any time with it though on parts like the OP is talking about.

 

[GarageWarrior]

Naval Jelly is pricey at $80/gal. Make your own - take full strength Phosphoric acid (Home Depot Prep&Etch - $10/gal) - thicken with Wallpaper Paste. Works just as good/better than Naval Jelly. Use it all the time - 10 minutes for light rust or rust stains on paint/etc, a few hours for moderate rust. Will not touch heavy rust, unless you dip it for day.

With that said, derusting hubs - can be done, but WHY?

 

[PCO6]

GarageWarrior - Very interesting. Thanks for the recipe. I hate wall papering but I do use a lot of phosphoric acid.

 

[Sk8Crash69]

I have also tried Naval Jelly and I was very disappointed.

 

[PCO6]

Here's a video on the use of naval jelly. Personally I would use phosphoric acid on something like this as it would be less labour intensive.

As mentioned, naval jelly is useful for some things and useless for others.

 

[skruft]

You might look at the various anti-rust products Eastwood sells.

 

[48RON54]

I dunno about antisieze on bolts related to your braking system.....

I only mention this as not once, but twice I put antisieze on bolts on my front brakes (specifically the bolts the hold the caliper to the carrier) and both times I lost a bolt while driving, found all the others had started backing out and just generally made a lot of extra work for myself.

If it is something you are dead set on doing I would make sure to do regular inspetions to make sure none of them are backing out.

 

[n8n]

Where the wheel hub attaches to the car's chassis is big problem spot. Anti size on the rotors has helped out a lot. But I want to really get all of the rust off the contact areas on the rotor and wheel.

I'm really looking for rust remover products.

Ah, I'm following you... I just use a wire brush in a drill motor, and use COPPER anti-seize on the hub protrusion. Works well on BMWs which seem especially prone to seized wheels for some reason.

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