skybar
Member
Interested in comments/experiences with rust removers: Evapo-Rust, TNT, and others. They are non-toxic, don't seem to bother original paint, but do remove decals. But must be used at temps over 65 degrees.
Rust Removers
- Thread starter skybar
- Start date
Google is your friend. Try this:
evaporust site:garagejournal.com
Evaporust works well. It is better suited in some applications than others. I like it for hand tools and clamps but I would never use it for, say, a brake rotor or caliper. That gets too expensive.
evaporust site:garagejournal.com
Evaporust works well. It is better suited in some applications than others. I like it for hand tools and clamps but I would never use it for, say, a brake rotor or caliper. That gets too expensive.
twertsy
Well-known member
Evaporust hands down. The ONLY issue I've found is that if you want to reuse it, strain it and put it back in a sealed container immediately. It WILL evaporate and leave a gooey residue all over your parts. I've lined boxes with contractor bags and done complete suspensions. Works like a charm.
Vinegar works great. It's cheap and doesn't lose it's strength over time. Soak the item over several days and the rust will literally fall off. I've tried many of the commercial remedies and all of them seem to work for a short while and are quite expensive.
David
David
Scott H in Wheaton
Well-known member
Also had great luck with vinegar. But it makes the garage smell like the gynecologist office.
henrysgarage
Well-known member
I have been using farm grade molasses. Mix between 6 and 10:1. Scrub then wash off with water and dry. The only drawback is you have to leave it for weeks sometimes.
Cyberbear
Well-known member
If you are a swimming pool owner you are no doubt familiar with muriatic or sulfuric acid, usually sold at pool supply shops or the Home Depot. I've used it most of my life with very good results.
It works best when diluted with water 50/50 mix, always adding the acid to the water slowly, never vice versa. Use outdoors to allow the fumes to escape, rubber gloves, plastic bucket, and wash everything after rinsing with soapy water to neutralize the acid residue. The main thing here is it's cheap, you can use it over and over until it's all gone. Be sure to degrease everything for better effectiveness. Also good for removing galvanized coatings, just avoid the smelly fumes and be carefull, and use common sense like you would around a car battery.
Swimming pool service guys use it all the time with good results, and for rust removal I prefer the muriatic.
It works best when diluted with water 50/50 mix, always adding the acid to the water slowly, never vice versa. Use outdoors to allow the fumes to escape, rubber gloves, plastic bucket, and wash everything after rinsing with soapy water to neutralize the acid residue. The main thing here is it's cheap, you can use it over and over until it's all gone. Be sure to degrease everything for better effectiveness. Also good for removing galvanized coatings, just avoid the smelly fumes and be carefull, and use common sense like you would around a car battery.
Swimming pool service guys use it all the time with good results, and for rust removal I prefer the muriatic.
e30bradley
Well-known member
vinegar.. or angle grinder with wire wheel.
NO!!! Muriatic acid is HYDROCHLORIC ACID, not sulfuric. Battery acid is sulfuric (H2SO4); muriatic is hydrochloric (HCl).
It may not matter for de-rusting, but confusing the two in other uses could have disastrous consequences - as in fatal.
PCO6
Well-known member
I use a phosphoric acid based product called "Rust Remover". It doesn't harm paint or decals. It can be used at any temperature. I've been using it for the last 30 years or so and have been happy with it.
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e-tek
Well-known member
^^^Hard to argue with thems results!
Actually, I'm not sure Phosphoric Acid 'removes' rust, but it does convert it (from Iron Oxide to Iron Oxite). Whereas all the EvapoRusts and such use selective chelation, pulling the Iron Oxide off the Iron and holding it in solution. That's why you should strain it well before using it again.
Actually, I'm not sure Phosphoric Acid 'removes' rust, but it does convert it (from Iron Oxide to Iron Oxite). Whereas all the EvapoRusts and such use selective chelation, pulling the Iron Oxide off the Iron and holding it in solution. That's why you should strain it well before using it again.
PCO6
Well-known member
What other products are you comparing it to in regard to speed? I've never considered it to be slow. If I need something "now" I blast it.
cwolfley
Well-known member
we use evapo rust from harris international labs, at work http://powerlinecomponents.com/ works real good.....http://www.evapo-rust.com/
PCO6
Well-known member
I'm not sure about the chemistry involved. All I know is that there is no rust on the metal and there's a pile of **** in the bottom of my tub. I shovel it out every few years, bag it and take it to the hazardous waste depot. I tell them what it is and they take it.
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Just comparing it to some of the common acids used like muratic and phosphoric. Some have used molasses but I've yet to try that. The phosphoric dip is probably the best I've used and yes it will leave a nasty mess in the bottom of your tub.
PCO6
Well-known member
^^^ I misread your initial post (#11). Sorry about that.
MP&C
Well-known member
I use these......
and then this......
.
and then this......
.
RMR&C
Well-known member
Be careful using vinegar on machined cast iron......I ruined a cylinder head leaving it in too long. It seems to attack the metal...
On steel it seems to work great, I have done several rusty wheels.
On steel it seems to work great, I have done several rusty wheels.
keelan
Well-known member
At $10/litre I only use Evaporust for small things. Don't half submerge things, bad things happen at the air/evaportust interface. For big things, electrolytic rust removal is easy and safe. It also works great as a paint stripper as well. Do not stick your hands in the energized solution -- I was surprised to learn that 12V will shock you. Do not light the bubbles with a lighter. Sometimes they go pop-pop, sometimes they go BOOM and scare the **** out of yourself and your wife. I like to avoid acids, especially hydrochloric acid. The fumes can cause everything in your garage to rust, and those pesky chlorine atoms can find their way deep into things like cast iron, and cause corrosion problems for years to come. Check out the muriatic acid aisle at your hardware store. Rust everywhere.
MG David
Well-known member
I use angle grinder with wire brush followed by a citric acid dip. After a wash in water I then apply phosphoric acid by brush or cloth. The excess is cleaned off with panel wipe. After that it is ready for a coat of epoxy primer.
Before I used to skip the citric acid and use more phosphoric but that tended to leave hard black bits in the pits. The citric acid leaves a cleaner result I understand this is because iron citrate is soluble in water. Following up with phosphoric acid stops any flash rust.
I have used electrolysis but the citric acid dip is less fuss and I am not very relaxed about leaving the battery charger running the electrolysis for days on end.
As has been said, with all these methods, degreasing is important.
Before I used to skip the citric acid and use more phosphoric but that tended to leave hard black bits in the pits. The citric acid leaves a cleaner result I understand this is because iron citrate is soluble in water. Following up with phosphoric acid stops any flash rust.
I have used electrolysis but the citric acid dip is less fuss and I am not very relaxed about leaving the battery charger running the electrolysis for days on end.
As has been said, with all these methods, degreasing is important.