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Rusted nuts: Torch vs. CRC Freeze-Off ?
- Thread starter Jacobson
- Start date
toolaholic
Well-known member
I heated a nut and then hit it with crc freeze off. It loosened.
bobcatdan
Well-known member
I have heard of it and read good things about in other threads on here, but personally never used it. I'm a kroil man and see no reason to look elsewhere.
HighPlainsWrencher
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 10, 2013
- Messages
- 218
I have a full can of the Loctite stuff in my box but have never used it. I was talking to our line bore guy about corroded fasteners and we both agreed Kroil, impact, heat, impact and if that doesn't work torch it off.
Jim Diesel
Well-known member
We are supplied Roost Off and typicaly use that. If that doesn't work we step up to the oxy.
Seppala
Well-known member
Oxy-Acetylene torch. I live on the edge of the rust belt. Had to remove an O2 sensor that was 20 years old from a 1991 Ford F-250. Soaked it for 2 weeks with acetone+aft. Broke off 02 sensor with a hammer so I could get a 22 mm socket on what remained of it with a breaker bar. It actually moved... a little bit. Took the torch out, heated the exhaust pipe to orange and started working out that 02 remnant with the breaker bar. As it cooled it didn't want to move anymore, so more heat was applied from the torch plus wax from a candle and soon that 02 remnant was out.
gdocktor3
Well-known member
I see two people mention Kroil. I never heard of it until now. Is it supposed to be the best?
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Rust belt mechanic here: Torch is the FIRST thing I reach for if something doesn't move. If you can break it free, but it's tight, use some PB blaster.
You'd be surprised how willing things are to move when the are glowing. Just hammer on a turbo-socket if it's round (or a cone of rust). If it won't move and it's consumable, melt it off.
You'd be surprised how willing things are to move when the are glowing. Just hammer on a turbo-socket if it's round (or a cone of rust). If it won't move and it's consumable, melt it off.
JJThrasher
Well-known member
Torch and wax has pretty much been the standard for the better part of a century and for good reason. Quick and efficient. Penetrating oil has its uses also.
I see two people mention Kroil. I never heard of it until now. Is it supposed to be the best?
Yes...........one of the best.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44043&page=2
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theoldwizard1
Well-known member
... Broke off 02 sensor with a hammer so I could get a 22 mm socket on what remained of it with a breaker bar. It actually moved... a little bit. Took the torch out, heated the exhaust pipe to orange and started working out that 02 remnant with the breaker bar. As it cooled it didn't want to move anymore, so more heat was applied from the torch plus wax from a candle and soon that 02 remnant was out.
The wax is the trick ! And working while it is still hot.
PSYKO_Inc
Well-known member
I've always used WD40 and a torch, but rust isn't really a huge issue around here. I'm sure some of the folks in more northern locales will have some better advice. I think I'll try that candle wax trick next time I have to fire up the smoke wrench.
92GreenYJ
Well-known member
I keep about 6 cans of PB blaster on a shelf in my garage at all times. Usually does the trick. If not I bust out the torch as well. Worse case the grinder comes out. The lower ball joint on my Jeep winded up getting the grinder treatment as the other methods just we're not working to loosen it up. I did try the freeze off stuff once. I'll stick with the PB blaster.
Schurkey
Well-known member
^^^ Winner.Torch is the FIRST thing I reach for if something doesn't move. If you can break it free, but it's tight, use some PB blaster.
^^^ Winner.I keep about 6 cans of PB blaster on a shelf in my garage at all times. Usually does the trick. If not I bust out the torch as well...
...I did try the freeze off stuff once. I'll stick with the PB blaster.
If you were near me, I'd give you half-a-can of that refrigerant/penetrating oil ****.
Completely worthless. WAY too much oil, not near enough cold. My "special project" that I was hoping that stuff would work on involved rigging on a fiberglass boat. I REALLY didn't want to use the torch...but...the refrigerant/penetrating oil did NOTHING except make me angry.
The Oxy-Acetylene torch made short work of the seized metal, I just had to be careful to get adequate heat-shielding to keep the hull happy.
If something if truly stuck is oxy acetylene torch time. Penetating oil does very little on a bolt head with threads rusted inside. It seems to work much better on studs/the end with a nut on it. Live in Canada in the heart of the rust belt
Bighead38
Well-known member
Rust belt mechanic here: Torch is the FIRST thing I reach for if something doesn't move. If you can break it free, but it's tight, use some PB blaster.
You'd be surprised how willing things are to move when the are glowing. Just hammer on a turbo-socket if it's round (or a cone of rust). If it won't move and it's consumable, melt it off.
Pretty much nailed it. It's not even funny how often the o/a torch comes out. Sometimes when it's a bad spot getting a wreck or socket onto it while it's still red is a challenge. When that happens I'll get it red and spray the freeze off on it. Repeat that once or twice and then switch to the wrench after the heat. I do like freeze off but also use a couple other brands. I don't care what anyone says, if your working on something rusty then there is nothing that will beat a o/a torch. Best case you heat it red and it comes out, worst case you just melt it off or out.
ex-x-fire
Well-known member
That freeze off stuff does work on frozen fuel line fittings.
gdocktor3
Well-known member
It is amazing how different vehicles are up in New England compared to down South and out West. Frame, chassis, suspension wise, I'd say 80% of all trucks 5 years and older are rusty, while 1/2 of that number are complete rust buckets. I do landscaping & have a few trucks. Any time I have to do a small repair, I end up doing 3 big repairs. I generally use PB Blaster, WD40 or CRC Knock'r Loose & CRC Screwloose. Basically anything I can take home from work. I've never seen the Kroil in stores, but will keep my eye out. I'd like to give it a shot.
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redwrench60
Well-known member
Kroil if it looks salvageable, torch if it doesn't. Sometimes a combination of both. Everything else is either a gimmick or too expensive/waste of money.
Only people too scared of oxy acetaline torches would even fool with ******** like this.
Only people too scared of oxy acetaline torches would even fool with ******** like this.
maxpower_hd
Well-known member
I like Kroil too but I also use PB Blaster. Also being in New England I end up torching most everything. I give it a try and if it won't break loose I reach for the torch. The lube is usually for things that still move at least a little.
Another thing I do a lot is heat to red hot and then hit with cold water. Especially for bolts as opposed to nuts. I just did this a couple days ago and it worked well. Usually better than just heat alone.
Another thing I do a lot is heat to red hot and then hit with cold water. Especially for bolts as opposed to nuts. I just did this a couple days ago and it worked well. Usually better than just heat alone.
LAROKE
Banned
Has anyone had success using it to install press-on crankshaft dampers? That is, heat the damper in boiling water and cooling the crankshaft snout with Freeze-Off prior to installing the damper.
maxpower_hd
Well-known member
Has anyone had success using it to install press-on crankshaft dampers? That is, heat the damper in boiling water and cooling the crankshaft snout with Freeze-Off prior to installing the damper.
I seriously doubt it cools enough but it might. We have used liquid nitrogen which works awesome but is not readily available for most people.
I have heard of it and read good things about in other threads on here, but personally never used it. I'm a kroil man and see no reason to look elsewhere.
Another kroil fan!!
LAROKE
Banned
I seriously doubt it cools enough but it might. We have used liquid nitrogen which works awesome but is not readily available for most people.
Good point. Thanx.
Bagherra
Well-known member
Can someone explain the use of wax to me? Never heard of that...
TIA
TIA
shortykorte
Well-known member
Can someone explain the use of wax to me? Never heard of that...
TIA
Wax has been used as a lubricant for years when using wood screws in wood. Makes sense that wax could be melted into threads and again at acts as a lubricant. Pre-chemical days, you had thin oils. Pre-petroleum you had wax or lard.
bmwpowere36m3
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 8, 2012
- Messages
- 1,125
Heat up the bolt/nut and melt wax into the threads... then remove.
Schurkey
Well-known member
Got time to spray fifteen cans of aerosol onto that crank snout?Has anyone had success using it to install press-on crankshaft dampers? That is, heat the damper in boiling water and cooling the crankshaft snout with Freeze-Off prior to installing the damper.
Got time to clean up the mess afterward?
Buckgnarly
Well-known member
I never tried the wax until recently, and I am SOLD on it. I NEVER could get rusted bleeders from brakes, now I am at least 6/6 on the last ones I have done since using wax. The benefit of wax is that it does not just burn off like lighter lubes (Kroil, PB, etc.).... it liquifies and gets into the threads. Oxy-acetylene plus beeswax is the knees of the very insects that provide me the wax.
I use beeswax candles from my wife's church to be exact, but do see beeswax chunks for sale at my local Ace hardware.
I use beeswax candles from my wife's church to be exact, but do see beeswax chunks for sale at my local Ace hardware.
plinker
Well-known member
Based on what I've done Freeze off works great for things you dont want to or cant heat, such as brake and fuel line fittings. It works well on threaded fasteners, not so much on sleeves/spacers and such. I does take a few minutes to work, you have to soak down whatever you're spraying.
A torch is generally the best option, if available, and you if can apply heat to the item. I've not had much luck with the wax, seems to burn off or not melt in, So I guessing I'm doing something wrong.
A torch is generally the best option, if available, and you if can apply heat to the item. I've not had much luck with the wax, seems to burn off or not melt in, So I guessing I'm doing something wrong.
ex-x-fire
Well-known member
I never tried the wax until recently, and I am SOLD on it. I NEVER could get rusted bleeders from brakes, now I am at least 6/6 on the last ones I have done since using wax. The benefit of wax is that it does not just burn off like lighter lubes (Kroil, PB, etc.).... it liquifies and gets into the threads. Oxy-acetylene plus beeswax is the knees of the very insects that provide me the wax.
I use beeswax candles from my wife's church to be exact, but do see beeswax chunks for sale at my local Ace hardware.
With bleeders I always heat & cool them with water, do it 3-4 times & they break loose.
maxpower_hd
Well-known member
With bleeders I always heat & cool them with water, do it 3-4 times & they break loose.
Me too. And I am like 10/10 without wax. I've never used wax I just haven't really had the need to. I was probably 1/10 before I learned to cool the bleeder after heating.
Bondo
Well-known member
With bleeders I always heat & cool them with water, do it 3-4 times & they break loose.
Ayuh,.... I'm surprised this didn't come up til page 2,....
I learned along time ago, for rusted fasteners to heat 'em Hot, 'n quench 'em with water,....
I've taken off rusted muffler clamp nuts that didn't even look like a nut, from clamps that barely had any signs of threads anymore, by heatin', 'n quenchin' 'em,....
gdocktor3
Well-known member
Ayuh,.... I'm surprised this didn't come up til page 2,....
I learned along time ago, for rusted fasteners to heat 'em Hot, 'n quench 'em with water,....
I've taken off rusted muffler clamp nuts that didn't even look like a nut, from clamps that barely had any signs of threads anymore, by heatin', 'n quenchin' 'em,....
So after you quench it you put a wrench on it or heat again and then try while its still hot?
maxpower_hd
Well-known member
Well it won't be very hot after you quench it so yes. I try it right away after the first quench. If it doesn't appear to be broken free I repeat until it does. Often it works the first time. But I haven't had to try more than 3x yet. Once I broke one but it was in such bad shape I was expecting that anyway.