I am interested in doing a couple floor outlets and do plan on ceiling outlets
Rustics Wood Shop...
- Thread starter zaphod07
- Start date
That place is going to be sweet and I followed your threadI'm currently building out my 46x48x12 garage/shop building. Having been a GC/finish carpenter for 35 years and this being my third shop, I have a pretty good idea of the layout and spacing that works for me. I have all my DC, power, and air located under my slab. No pipes or wires overhead. I'm planning to purchase another DC system from clearvuecyclones.com .
I'll be following your thread. Mine is https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/new-home-next-chapter.431876/page-16#post-9442814 .
Renegade1LI
Well-known member
I had a few floor outlets, ended up taking them out & ran everything overhead. Always filled with debris & I move stuff around so the overhead worked out better.
nadogail
Well-known member
My shop shares space with my son's car. All my machines are on wheels.
something I just noticed is your lathe placement
it is a standalone tool
I would move it to the back, right corner
use an under the lathe cabinet for tool storage and a devoted light
then slide the cut off bench to the front
that will allow you to make a bench level door in the front wall to make it possible to slip extra long parts onto to the cut off bench
it is a standalone tool
I would move it to the back, right corner
use an under the lathe cabinet for tool storage and a devoted light
then slide the cut off bench to the front
that will allow you to make a bench level door in the front wall to make it possible to slip extra long parts onto to the cut off bench
Zeke
Well-known member
Only 2 comments: if the difference in lumber costs from 32 to 36' is significant enough, you're cutting it way too close. Things always cost more before completion. 2) if your design is so dedicated that you can't have a man door somewhere else (say for cross ventilation), your plans aren't flexible enough. As in costs, things change.
Build has Finally started. The Footers were dug Monday and the inspector is scheduled tomorrow prior to concrete. I ended up going 24x34 and I am planning on a higher pitched roof to give a bit of useful attic space. The guys were not expecting to have to dig the footers as deep as they did. I am 6'2" and the Amish fellow was not. It was a bit amusing watching his hat just float around the perimeter
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jar944
Well-known member
Deepest footer depth I've heard of is 48"
Pennsylvania was 36" here in VA it's 24"
How deep? looks like close to 60" if you are 74"
Pennsylvania was 36" here in VA it's 24"
How deep? looks like close to 60" if you are 74"
One of the fun things having a Amish builder build your shop is the surprise communications (lack there of). Thursday night I got a call around 8 and Noel (the builder) says "Mr Donley I will be there tomorrow at 7 to clean up the area before the blocks and cement truck shows up." Roger that Noel see ya then. 7am on the Nose Noel and his crew come walking down the Drive. Clean dig from some debris in the holes. Block truck shows up, sand truck shows up and cement shows up. Couple hours later the block started going in...
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It's been a bit since the last update. Not much progress but alot has happened. I have been away on work and wedding and vacation travel so I asked the builder to not do anything while I was away. But when we got back they were back at it getting ready for concrete. Thursday they back filled the cavity with gravel and forming up for the apron. They were going to pour concrete Friday but held off due to some potential rain. Friday the rain came and went nothing to big. Today was a different story. Rain, heavy heavy rain. I went out and dug some trenches to help get some of the water out of the apron form area. And about an hour later went out to look and the back wall had failed and completely let loose. I am a bit sick in the stomach and have a splitting headache. I
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Toolfool
Well-known member
Did they pour a footing ? Rebar tying block to footing ? Fill blocks with concrete ? Especially with all that fill.
jkeyser14
Well-known member
Yikes! Better that it failed now than after the walls were up.
I don't think it would of been an issue if the walls were up. There would of been concrete and the cavity would not of filled with rain water.
I also think you would be better with a wider large door and a 36” man door. I have 3 doors in my 30x34 and put a plug at each door for the welder. That way I can get the machine to the work. I have gone to vertical storage for lumber. More compact, safer and easier to get at “that” damned board which is always at the bottom of the pile, and it is. Since my first posts on this thread I’ve made a couple changes in my shop. Watch the tube on New Brit workshop on the Parf Guide II. With it I have made my own Multi-Function Table for use with my Festool TS55 track saw and 1400 router. It is changing the way I work. With the Parf guide I can make tables any dimension I like. I seldom use my chop saw and I never break sheet goods down on the TS, preferring the 55. Accuracy on the MFT has been excellent. I hav the router attachment for my Sawstop. It has worked out very well, but I’m finding myself using the 1400 on the Festool tracks on the mft to be very good. I also agree that your DC and air compressor should have their own closet outside paying attention to noise mitigation and I would run the ducting under the slab. 6” pvc up the center, a 45 branch to each wall and run the pipe along the wall. This keeps your ceiling clear and eliminates drops all over the place. Quiet(er) and wide open is what you want. My DC was a mistake. I decided to go with a mobil unit and it and the hoses are in the way all the time. Hazardous! You cannot really anticipate what and where you will be doing things until you get in there. Well, I couldn’t anyway. I wanted to not have to search for plugs so I ran my recptacles at 18” & 52” alternating hi low every 4’ all the way around. That seemed excessive but many of them get covered up. I have 4 30A plugs and the 3 50A as well.
Jayman17
Well-known member
Wow sorry to see what happened on your project. Hopefully there is some type of fix that won’t set you back too much on time or money.
Jay
Jay
Toolfool
Well-known member
I don't see any rebar in the early photo sticking up from the footing through the concrete blocks. And no lintel across the top course (as in the photos I posted). Sticking rebar in a cavity does not tie it to the footing.
paredown
Well-known member
Sorry about the blowout--it can be repaired, but it is an added expense.
This is the first time I have seen your thread, and on the door question, what I did on one end of mine was to frame in from a standard 8x10 opening (all screwed so reversible), then added a bargain double french door--mine is an Andersen. You see them on FB Marketplace sometimes--they get ripped out, and are sold without frames--I think I paid $100 for the two sides (2x36") with locks and knobs. The other expense was a commercial style threshold @ $50 or so...
I then framed the door up (Cheap HD door frames but marked down, 2 kits)--not dead easy because they are made with a proprietary frame--so I have full glass for light, a lockable sealed door, and it is wide enough to take large stuff through the shop.
This is the first time I have seen your thread, and on the door question, what I did on one end of mine was to frame in from a standard 8x10 opening (all screwed so reversible), then added a bargain double french door--mine is an Andersen. You see them on FB Marketplace sometimes--they get ripped out, and are sold without frames--I think I paid $100 for the two sides (2x36") with locks and knobs. The other expense was a commercial style threshold @ $50 or so...
I then framed the door up (Cheap HD door frames but marked down, 2 kits)--not dead easy because they are made with a proprietary frame--so I have full glass for light, a lockable sealed door, and it is wide enough to take large stuff through the shop.
jar944
Well-known member
That's the 2nd collapse post on GJ I've seen in the last month or so. How tall is that back retaing wall?
I would suggest that you look at the YT New Brit Workshop on the Parf Guide MkII. I bought one a couple months ago and have made my own MFT top. With the guide you can make tops in pretty much any configuration and size. I find that the MFT and my Festool track saw and the 1400 router which can also ride the guide rails are changing the way I work. I never do sheet goods on the table saw any longer. The MFT could become your outfeed and other spots as well. Also, I think you should get the DC and air compressor their own outside closet. As this is a new building I’d run 6” sch 40 pvc for the underground. A straight run up the center to the TS/mft/RT and a 45 branch ro each side laid off along the wall below bench height. Eliminating the overhead piping and drops and getting the DC noise out will greatly improve the atmosphere in the shop. i screwed up in my shop deciding to go with a rolling DC. Hoses and cords are a problem. I’m going to a friends shop today to help out. He has a big Laguna, which is really nice, but in a shop almost the size of yours the duct drops are a pita.
Well its been awhile and i have been in and out on travel and my Amish crew came in and disassembled the wall with Mason hammers, Reclaimed what they could. Built a temporary retaining wall for the fill and rebuilt the wall. With some extra reinforcements this time around. The concrete has been poured. Framing is complete. And this week they have been busy with windows, roofing, and siding.
