Rustoleum Epoxy Flooring Questions

[LeGaCyGiAnT124]

Hey Guys! New to the forums here.

Last weekend, I completely pulled everything out of our garage, built a 8x2x6 storage shelf and looking into drywalling the unfinished side of the garage, painting everything white, and doing a basic floor epoxy. My question to you guys.... Is the $70 rustoleum kits worth the money? Our garage is fairly small. No vehicles of ours would fit. Just what you see there is what will be in it. Thanks for the advice

 

[Shea]

Welcome to the forum! The DIY Rust-Oleum kits generally are not worth the investment over the long run for a variety of reasons. However, if you are not parking a car in the garage they will hold up better than usual. We have an article in the link below that explains what to expect from them.

https://allgaragefloors.com/why-epoxy-paint-kits-get-a-bad-rap/

There are better products that you can apply that won't cost that much more and the finish will be more glossy as well. Your main issue, however, is going to be cleaning the concrete and getting all those oil stains up. Acid etching won't clean oil stains and they will inhibit the epoxy from adhering well. You may have to grind. Of course you will want to address the cracks as well.

 

[DougB]

As stated on Shea's link, there are good experiences with the Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Professional product. We did my friend's did his 30 year old, ~450 sq ft garage with the Pro kit (R-O part number 203373, light gray) and the clear top coat over 11 years ago. He's done fab work and other general shade tree mechanic work in there and it's held up very well. There are some discolorations/stains from rusted metal and if you look closely you can find weld/plasma splatter marks. Slag splatter from close-to-floor welding or plasma was usually the main offender but the coating has not bubbled or peeled up from tires or typical automotive chemicals.

He did make sure the floor was well prepped by scraping off any paint or other stuck on material, a deep cleaning and degreasing, patching any cracks or depressions, and finally a good acid etch with undiluted muriatic acid. It started off not too far in appearance from yours. He used 2 of the epoxy kits and a single clear kit.

I am considering it for my garage as well.

Yes, there are better products out there but the lesser expensive ones have a purpose, and can have good results, for those in lower budgets.

 

[LeGaCyGiAnT124]

Thanks for that article, Shea.

I forgot to mention that I have been researching for the past few days now. Like I said, it's down the road, but just wanted to get more ideas on what I want to do. We are going to finish the drywall first before we even do the floor. The cracks are going to be repaired as well, floor will be powerwashed, de-greased, etched etc. Review after review says that the floor prep is the most important part.

I am looking into the "professional" line of Rustoleum now that you mentioned that too.

 

[frank001]

Thanks for that article, Shea.

I forgot to mention that I have been researching for the past few days now. Like I said, it's down the road, but just wanted to get more ideas on what I want to do. We are going to finish the drywall first before we even do the floor. The cracks are going to be repaired as well, floor will be powerwashed, de-greased, etched etc. Review after review says that the floor prep is the most important part.

I am looking into the "professional" line of Rustoleum now that you mentioned that too.

This is my experience with the Rustoleum product:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=284998&highlight=frank001

 

[LeGaCyGiAnT124]

This is my experience with the Rustoleum product:

Thanks for the link, Frank.

Even after 4 years it's still holding up fairly well? A few questions.

1) Did you put a clear coat on top?
2) Has it peeled at all?
3) Did you add any anti-skid when you were initially laying down the epoxy paint?

I am still up in the air on whether I get the "professional" kit or the water based kit. I can get the water based kit for roughly $50.

 

[frank001]

This is my experience with the Rustoleum product:

Thanks for the link, Frank.

Even after 4 years it's still holding up fairly well? A few questions.

1) Did you put a clear coat on top?
2) Has it peeled at all?
3) Did you add any anti-skid when you were initially laying down the epoxy paint?

I am still up in the air on whether I get the "professional" kit or the water based kit. I can get the water based kit for roughly $50.

The floor still looks about the same as it did when I first applied it. Just some areas where dirt was tracked in by feet or tires. Cleans up with a mop.

No clear coat.
No peeling.
No anti-skid.

As you mentioned, prep is the most important.

 

[cash68]

Get the Rocksolid Polycuramine kit if you're dead set on a rustoleum product.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=357759

 

[LeGaCyGiAnT124]

As stated on Shea's link, there are good experiences with the Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Professional product. We did my friend's did his 30 year old, ~450 sq ft garage with the Pro kit (R-O part number 203373, light gray) and the clear top coat over 11 years ago. He's done fab work and other general shade tree mechanic work in there and it's held up very well. There are some discolorations/stains from rusted metal and if you look closely you can find weld/plasma splatter marks. Slag splatter from close-to-floor welding or plasma was usually the main offender but the coating has not bubbled or peeled up from tires or typical automotive chemicals.

He did make sure the floor was well prepped by scraping off any paint or other stuck on material, a deep cleaning and degreasing, patching any cracks or depressions, and finally a good acid etch with undiluted muriatic acid. It started off not too far in appearance from yours. He used 2 of the epoxy kits and a single clear kit.

I am considering it for my garage as well.

Yes, there are better products out there but the lesser expensive ones have a purpose, and can have good results, for those in lower budgets.

After reading reviews, I think this is what I am deciding to use as well. I measured our garage yesterday, and it's roughly 280 square feet.

My too buy list

- Rust-oleum Professional Kit
- Gallon of Clear Coat
- Muriatic Acid
- Scrub Brush
- Cement Patcher
- Extra Flakes
- Degreaser
- Anti-Slip Additive to mix with the clear coat.

I am probably thinking too hard into this, but I want the product to last.

My questions...

Do you HAVE to use a pressure washer? Like I said in my last post, we are in the process of putting up new drywall. How do you guys powerwash without ruining it? Can I get away with just using muriatic acid/ scrub brush/ degreaser and just a regular hose? Thoughts/opinions?

Also, what is a good cement patcher? I feel like to use the Rustoleum brand that I would need a good bit, but could be wrong. There are more cracks in the garage than I thought.

Thanks!!

 

[Falcon67]

Do you HAVE to use a pressure washer? Like I said in my last post, we are in the process of putting up new drywall. How do you guys powerwash without ruining it? Can I get away with just using muriatic acid/ scrub brush/ degreaser and just a regular hose? Thoughts/opinions?

That was all I did - acid mop the floor, let it eat, hosed it off with well water that happens to have a lot of minerals. IIRC, I used 1 part acid to 3 parts water. I did not use the Rustolem product specifically, but it appears that K-M has replaced the industrial coating I did use with the Rustoleum professsional line.

FWIW - the old shop was a 20x24 and I did same - acid wash, hose it off, dry. I used some forgotten name two part epoxy floor pain from Lowes, 2 gallons. Never had a problem with the floor. Also note - both these floors were new and post cure, no wall coverings yet, etc. Studs, dried in, paint floor, then finish building.

 

[SolarColumbia]

I just 2800 psi washed mine after scrubbing with TSP and after having done hand scrubbing and hosing off with Dawn. I was surprised the power washing didn't do a lot. If you do pressure wash you probably want more PSI than I had. My floor has 25 years of use and while I got lots of dirt off it and it is cleaner, it doesn't look much better.

 

[LeGaCyGiAnT124]

I just 2800 psi washed mine after scrubbing with TSP and after having done hand scrubbing and hosing off with Dawn. I was surprised the power washing didn't do a lot. If you do pressure wash you probably want more PSI than I had. My floor has 25 years of use and while I got lots of dirt off it and it is cleaner, it doesn't look much better.

I am really surprised it didn't do a lot. I know when I use the power wash outside on the driveway, it will really do wonders from the black areas over time.

I guess all I will have to do is try it out and see what happens with just degreaser/etcher and go from there. If there are still stains/ dirty spots, I will just try the power washer.

 

[SolarColumbia]

Most of my oil stains did lighten up, but didn't completely disappear.

 

[DougB]

My too buy list

- Rust-oleum Professional Kit
- Gallon of Clear Coat
- Muriatic Acid
- Scrub Brush
- Cement Patcher
- Extra Flakes
- Degreaser
- Anti-Slip Additive to mix with the clear coat.

The Rust-Oleum clear kit comes with anti-skid in it so you won't need it separately, unless you're going to use another brand's anti-skid or want more than the clear kit comes with.

 

[LeGaCyGiAnT124]

The Rust-Oleum clear kit comes with anti-skid in it so you won't need it separately, unless you're going to use another brand's anti-skid or want more than the clear kit comes with.

Thanks for the info

 

[LeGaCyGiAnT124]

Little bit of an update. Got all of the drywall completely put up, mudding is done (as of last night) just have to lightly sand the walls to smooth them out, and sand the bulk head. I actually finished the back wall where the shelf is at, so that part is complete. Once these walls are primered/painted, onto the flooring we go

Here's an updated list of what I am getting

-Rustoleum 238476 Professional Dark Gray Epoxy-Shield Floor Coating Kit - $101.49
-Rustoleum Concrete Patch + Repair Kit - $23.43
-Stiff Scrub Deck Brush -$5.98
-Floor Squeegee - $5.98
-Seal-Krete Clean and Etch - $18.98
-ZEP Industrial Purple Degreaser - $10.48
-Putty Knives (for concrete repair) - $2.98
-1 Gallon Sprayer (for concrete etch) - $9.98
-1 Gallon of Rustoleum Clear Coat - $105.00
-3 Pack of Synthetic Paint Roller Covers - $8.98
- 15inch Power Washer Surface Cleaner - $69.98


Total - $363.26 + tax

I didn't actually pay full price on anything except for the Epoxy kit itself. Everything else I was able to use Lowe's coupons on, so probably paid about $100 less than what I tallied up.

 

[LeGaCyGiAnT124]

Made a lot of progress in the last few days. Finished painting the walls and ceiling (woo hoo!) Worked on the floor today. My wife and I spent between 4-5 hours power-washing it with a surface cleaner, degreasing it with Zep Purple, then etching it with Seal Krete Clean n Etch.

How rough does the surface need to be to adhere to the epoxy flooring? It has "grit" to it, but not 150 grit. Maybe I am overthinking it. Should I go out and buy a gallon of Muriatic Acid and pour it on?

Pics 1-2 are before Degreasing/Etching

Pics 3-4 are less than an hour after degreasing/ etching

Pics 5-7 are 5-6 hours after degreasing/etching

 

[LeGaCyGiAnT124]

Buying muriatic acid after work from Lowes and spraying it undiluted. Want this to work!! These were pictures I took this morning, so roughly 12-13 hours of dry time with a box fan and dehumidifier running overnight.

 

[ovscrider]

damn that concretes in rough shape. I just etched my 2 car this weekend and still going back and forth on what coating i am putting down. Looked at the rustoleum but am considering doing dry lock and putting down 2 8.5 x 22 mats for the cars to sit on. original plan was racedeck but i don't want to spend that much.

 

[LeGaCyGiAnT124]

damn that concretes in rough shape. I just etched my 2 car this weekend and still going back and forth on what coating i am putting down. Looked at the rustoleum but am considering doing dry lock and putting down 2 8.5 x 22 mats for the cars to sit on. original plan was racedeck but i don't want to spend that much.

What did you use to etch with?

Yeah, there are a lot of cracks that I am going to repair before applying the epoxy. Anything will look better than what it currently looks like, I agree.

 

[Kaizen]

When i researched for my floor i found several videos clearly showing they did the application right but it pulled up easily. Hot tires in particular. Once i saw that i easily decided not to use it. And my floor was brand new perfect. Yours needs all the help it can get. you might want to spend some more

 

[LeGaCyGiAnT124]

When i researched for my floor i found several videos clearly showing they did the application right but it pulled up easily. Hot tires in particular. Once i saw that i easily decided not to use it. And my floor was brand new perfect. Yours needs all the help it can get. you might want to spend some more

I am going to wet the floor again when I get home, spray undiluted blue cap muriatic acid on the floor, let it sit for a minute or two, spray it all off the best I can with the garden hose, and then power wash the floor one more time. Come Wednesday evening, my wife's going to help me repair the cracks and then going to lay the epoxy down on Thursday myself, then clear coat wiuth the anti-skid Saturday evening.

I am not concerned at all about the hot tire pickup, because our garage is too small, it will never have a vehicle parked in it.

 

[Jwestercamp]

Following



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[frank001]

I used Rustoleum Epoxy on my garage floor.
Results are here:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=284998&highlight=frank001

 

[LeGaCyGiAnT124]

On Monday, 9/9, I actually re-greased two stained areas on the garage floor one more time (let the degreaser soak them for 10 minutes before scrubbing them for a good few minutes) and then rinsing the areas. Then, I re-etched using the Seal-Krete Clean n Etch I already had in my sprayer. I called Rustoleum, and the guy told me not to use muriatic acid, so I didn't. The floor feels pretty rough now. I don't see why I will have an issue with the epoxy sticking to it. Have had a box fan/ dehumidifier down there since cleaning. Dehumidifier is still staying on, and it's showing 55% humidity down there.

Fast forward to yesterday, 9/10, and I figured while letting the floor dry an extra day I could bust open the black gloss paint and paint the first coat on the door frame/ trim. I also have 64ft of 5/4 decking board that I am painting black as well that's going to be the trim around the whole garage.

Don't worry, the brass door handle is going soon enough too.

My wife and I are repairing the cracks when I get home from work, and then going to lay down the epoxy Friday night.

 

[LeGaCyGiAnT124]

My wife and I got the concrete repair on tonight. Used the whole 24oz and stretched it as far as it could possibly go Also got all of the trim cut so they just need painted.

Going to give the whole garage one last shop vac sweep Saturday morning, and then it's epoxy time!!

 

[LeGaCyGiAnT124]

So, I got impatient and couldn't wait to put it down any longer

Did it solo and it took roughly 2 hours to do a 275 square foot garage. I will admit that I took my time, but what's the rush? I think it turned out GREAT. Can't wait to see it dry and with the clear coat on Saturday

 

[Darryl2]

Looks Great!

 

[LeGaCyGiAnT124]

Looks Great!

Thanks!!

I ended up putting down the clear coat yesterday, finished painting 50+ feet of decking board and door frame, as well as building my work bench and painting it. It's been a really busy weekend, but it's really coming together now and I love the floor with the clear coat

 

[Shea]

Good job!

 

[Solo2]

I'll add my voice to those who've had good experiences with Rustoleum Professional. I did it a dozen years ago on a new home build. Put it down with a coat of clear and sand aggregate. Never peeled over the time I owned that house. Only disappointment, if you call it that, is the yellowing that happened due to the sunlight.

I'm now doing a new garage but came to the forum to see if there are easy to buy products I should use instead. So, open to ideas, but leaning towards the Rocksolid product and following the same method.

My biggest question (for now) is how do you clean up paint splatters from the concrete? I have a room off to the side of the garage that the builder didn't clean from when they painted the walls. Any suggestions?

 

[LeGaCyGiAnT124]

I'll add my voice to those who've had good experiences with Rustoleum Professional. I did it a dozen years ago on a new home build. Put it down with a coat of clear and sand aggregate. Never peeled over the time I owned that house. Only disappointment, if you call it that, is the yellowing that happened due to the sunlight.

I'm now doing a new garage but came to the forum to see if there are easy to buy products I should use instead. So, open to ideas, but leaning towards the Rocksolid product and following the same method.

My biggest question (for now) is how do you clean up paint splatters from the concrete? I have a room off to the side of the garage that the builder didn't clean from when they painted the walls. Any suggestions?

It seems like a grinder would be your best bet if there is that much paint splatter. My power-washer didn't take it off like I thought it would.