We painted our garage floor with this last week. We did all the proper prep to our floor. Degreased, etched, watched the temp, humidity and waited the proper dwell time once we mixed the two parts together. We had plenty of product to apply. All was good, then we saw how it dried. Some areas on our concrete floor just seemed to "****" up the paint, other areas are nice and glossy. It's patchy with semi gloss and flat areas. Pretty disappointing ending. Rustoleum claims this is a one coat system? I spoke with Rustoleum and they told me I can either clear coat it with another epoxy clear coat they sell if the color is consistant, or we can sand the entire 3 bays of the garage and reapply the paint and flecks AGAIN ! - we have to figure out which we are going to do. Not sure if the problem was due to older concrete - 9 years, or salt from NE winters coming off our cars and sitting on the concrete. - we don't think it's that because there are areas that don't see the salt that has the lousy finish. Where there is gloss it does like nice, but it's really patchwork finish now. If I recommend this product I would say plan on doing 2 coats !!
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Rustoleum Epoxy Professional Floor Paint System
- Thread starter abletest1
- Start date
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Primer helps to create a nice even second coat.
I would not apply any floor coating without a primer coat no matter what the can says.
Your best bet is to degloss the coating and reapply another coat.
If the color is consistent, you might get away with a clear coat.
-Scotty
I would not apply any floor coating without a primer coat no matter what the can says.
Your best bet is to degloss the coating and reapply another coat.
If the color is consistent, you might get away with a clear coat.
-Scotty
scottzilla
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2009
- Messages
- 200
Would another brand epoxy coating work "Better"?
GarageDetailer
Member
- Joined
- May 19, 2009
- Messages
- 16
I would try using a urethane top coat to provide a uniform gloss. It has better UV inhibitors in it and should provide the gloss you are looking for.
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
Did you use a primer coat? Watch any show where a pro is painting a classic car, motorcycle, wall, plane, bridge, or floor - they always, always, always use a primer coat.
Check some of the project reports here - followed prep directions, applied same coating system without a primer. A year or two later some of the DIYers report that things are going great - while others complain about hot tire lift, or patches flaking off, or some other failure at the concrete/coating line. With modern production QC it's unlikely that some defective material made it out of the factory, so unless the distributor changed suppliers it's the same product. So what happened?
There are several things that may have gone wrong during application, but then again the simple fact may be that the epoxy just didn't adhere well to the concrete. Some epoxies try to be all things, a "one coat" system, that's just tough, at this point impossible even, to chemically pull off. If it was do-able, every large request for bid would spec it and every pro contractor would be using it.
In the cases of Wolverine Coatings they have over 1,000 body coats, some costing less than $1 per square foot, with others priced at several hundred dollars per square foot, and almost all of the recommend the use of a quality primer (usually BondTite 1101 - which penetrates concrete and even steel). Large commercial jobs are extremely competitive. When a job has over 100,000 ft2 even a small difference is cost per ft2 adds up quickly. The customers and suppliers/applicators are very sensitive to every detail, many of the companies have their own in-house labs or specialists test and evaluate the proposed products and price details. And they all demand primers.
If you're going to use 2 coats anyway - make the first one a coating specifically designed to both mechanically and chemically adhere to the substrate you're coating - use a primer. If I were on a budget I'd opt for a primer and body coat, when you get some extra funds you can always go back, clean up the body coat, and apply a clear coat over the existing system, but you can't slip a primer coat underneath it.
Check some of the project reports here - followed prep directions, applied same coating system without a primer. A year or two later some of the DIYers report that things are going great - while others complain about hot tire lift, or patches flaking off, or some other failure at the concrete/coating line. With modern production QC it's unlikely that some defective material made it out of the factory, so unless the distributor changed suppliers it's the same product. So what happened?
There are several things that may have gone wrong during application, but then again the simple fact may be that the epoxy just didn't adhere well to the concrete. Some epoxies try to be all things, a "one coat" system, that's just tough, at this point impossible even, to chemically pull off. If it was do-able, every large request for bid would spec it and every pro contractor would be using it.
In the cases of Wolverine Coatings they have over 1,000 body coats, some costing less than $1 per square foot, with others priced at several hundred dollars per square foot, and almost all of the recommend the use of a quality primer (usually BondTite 1101 - which penetrates concrete and even steel). Large commercial jobs are extremely competitive. When a job has over 100,000 ft2 even a small difference is cost per ft2 adds up quickly. The customers and suppliers/applicators are very sensitive to every detail, many of the companies have their own in-house labs or specialists test and evaluate the proposed products and price details. And they all demand primers.
If you're going to use 2 coats anyway - make the first one a coating specifically designed to both mechanically and chemically adhere to the substrate you're coating - use a primer. If I were on a budget I'd opt for a primer and body coat, when you get some extra funds you can always go back, clean up the body coat, and apply a clear coat over the existing system, but you can't slip a primer coat underneath it.
rsieracki
Well-known member
I recently used Rustoleum 2 part SOLVENT epoxy i got at menards, $89 for about 2 gallons... i used 2 coats. 1st coat was heavy on the border/edges/stemwall and what was left on the floor. next night was a nice heavy coat on the floor with a HEAVY chip broadcast and followed with a clear coat the following day. looks great to me. im currently builidng workbenches and bases for my shelves (unlevel floor) thats bolted to the floor. then when all done i will clear a second coat and add trex as a baseboard and silcone.
ive used the rustoleum before and never had issues but the key as everyone says is the prep.
ive used the rustoleum before and never had issues but the key as everyone says is the prep.
FL_Javelin
Well-known member
I used Pro Rustoleum also, I did 2 coats. The first looked much as you described but the second came out great. I highly recomend 2 coats however I think there is a reapply time frame so check. 3 1/2 years later, still looks great. Read my write up below, good luck.
bberger
Well-known member
I used Rustoleum followed by another brand clear coat a year ago. Floor looks great and held up good so far