To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Rustoleum Hammered Paint problems?

logan09

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2012
Messages
120
Location
Upper Michigan
What is the trick to using this ****?:headscrat Bought some to use on old porch swing brackets and when I spray it on it goes on like normal paint unless I put it on thick. Then when it dries only certain areas are "hammered" looking but smooth to the touch(I thought it would be textured almost).
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Thumper68

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2013
Messages
5,134
Location
Duluth MN
For it to work correctly it needs to go on heavy and at the right temp.

I have had good luck in the mid 60's to mid 70'sF. then apply one light coat followed right away by a med coat. the first seems to prep the surface for the next one.
 

GCncsuHD

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 19, 2013
Messages
968
Location
Salisbury, NC
I believe the labeling on the newer cans is incorrect. The label says use multiple light coats, but the older cans and the website recommend medium to heavier coats. I've used it in the past with success, usually I do a couple light coats for good adhesion and make sure I get everything covered then finish it up with one somewhat heavy wet coat (not so heavy it drips or runs). This replicated the finish on the cap pretty closely in both appearance and felt texture.
 

ford33

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2011
Messages
2,118
Location
Chicago, IL. USA
It needs to go on heavy and it takes 8+ hours to dry between coats. I painted a tool box with it and I was not happy with the hammered finish results. Uneven hammered finish and varying silver color was the result.
 

scouting

Well-known member
Joined
May 14, 2011
Messages
288
Location
WY, USA
Like previously stated, heavy coats. As in, another dusting and it will run. I've also found that roughing up the surface badly (i.e. hammer it with 100 grit) helps. Deep scratches in the work seems to help. However, I've been disappointed in the toughness of the paint. I've found it likes to flake off, not down to bare metal but enough to ruin the finish.
 
OP
L

logan09

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2012
Messages
120
Location
Upper Michigan
Thanks for the replies. The directions are wrong I followed the ones I
saw online. I'm dissapointed in the finish. Its been 3 days and I can still indent it with my finger/leave a print.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Dan in Pasadena

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
13,115
Location
Pasadena, CA
Logan,
Saw the thread title and assumed you were talking about the brush type Rustoleum hammer paint. I've had GREAT results with that but you do have to follow a technique.

I know you're NOT asking about that but since others may do a search on the subject in the future I'll post what I did.

I brush painted some wide flange beams that I did absolutely NOTHING to in the way of prep. I dusted them but didn't even do that all that well. Paint "dry-to-wet" cause the paint is weird. It starts getting tacky and actual strings of paint start forming in only five minutes. The label tells you if you want a second coat you have to do it within a short time (can't remember how long) or you have to wait like 5 or 7 days. I waited....and this stuff is ROCK HARD. Like powder coating. Very very pleased. Hope this helps someone.


Closeup:
 
Last edited:

Lassen Forge

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 26, 2014
Messages
15,086
Location
The romantic hills of central Umbria, Italy,
Thanks for the replies. The directions are wrong I followed the ones I
saw online. I'm dissapointed in the finish. Its been 3 days and I can still indent it with my finger/leave a print.

Been having the same issues recently with non-hammer Rustoleum rattle cans - what ised to be "quick dry" is now like 3-5 days. Probably a formulation change, probably due to some EPA VOC regulation. That would mess up the hammer finish pretty bad, as you need that weird drying characteristic for it to work.

What I used to put back in service in 6 hours I now have to wait... or have funky paint.

Sad thing is, the "other labels" seem to have similar problems as well, which is why I think it's some regulatiory issue.
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,004
Location
Pacific Northwest
i usually have better luck when buying the $10 per spray can of the hammered paint instead of the $3-5 versions. a little prep to clean and rough up the service of your project is advisable then shake can well and shoot your project. definitely works better in the 50 to 80 degree temp range.

one thing that might also be helpful especially for those of us that don't have good ventilation in the shop/garage or a paint booth is to grab a big appliance box or regular cardboard box to shoot your project outside and not have the wind blow your paint all over everything else.

I've never had issues with flaking, but if you do try to put it on a bit too heavy it will run.
 

Junk Scout

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2012
Messages
46
Location
Centerville - A great place to raise your kids!
I did not use a spray can because Rustoleum spray has been a problem -bubbles out, inconsistent spray. Went with small cans and a small roller. Have done several cabinets now and it is great!
Once it gets tacky you have to leave it alone for a while & recoat after it dries some. And it takes 3 times as long to fully dry as you think & outgasses a bit.
After its done it looks great and covers up all manner of evil!
 

Attachments

  • P8180004.jpg
    P8180004.jpg
    136.2 KB · Views: 91

Gerald O

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 5, 2013
Messages
1,884
Location
NC
If you want to spray and you want texture you could spray it on very heavy and then quickly go over it with a foam roller before it starts to thicken. Down worry about runs, because you'll roll them out. Then as it starts to thicken, mist over with a light blend coat that is just heavy enough to fuse into the first coat but not thick enough to run. Let it dry for about a week at about 70-80 deg before disturbing it.
 

GCncsuHD

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 19, 2013
Messages
968
Location
Salisbury, NC
If you want to spray and you want texture you could spray it on very heavy and then quickly go over it with a foam roller before it starts to thicken. Down worry about runs, because you'll roll them out. Then as it starts to thicken, mist over with a light blend coat that is just heavy enough to fuse into the first coat but not thick enough to run. Let it dry for about a week at about 70-80 deg before disturbing it.

I must be getting lucky with it... I recently sprayed two plastic planting pots and a cast umbrella stand for my wife. Sprayed them light a couple times, then followed by a heavy wet coat. Did it in the evening, outside in the yard, picked them up the next morning and they were fine to handle, and had both visual and tangible texture to the finish. No rolling or excessive curing times required.
 
OP
L

logan09

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2012
Messages
120
Location
Upper Michigan
This is how it turned out. I think I sprayed a medium coat on it and nothing happened(i.e the hammered look) let it dry so it wasn't "tacky" and sprayed a heavy coat to get the hammered look. It's supposed to be "Bronze" too, sure looks gray to me. I used to build AR-15s and AKs and painted most of them yet can't figure out how to make a $6 can of spray paint work:wtf:
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0007.jpg
    IMG_0007.jpg
    153.9 KB · Views: 135
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom