Rustoleum Hammered Paint - Quarts

[BJ42LX]

Does anyone have first-hand experience with Rustoleum Hammered paint in the quart cans?

I've got a metal cabinet I'm painting and I'd like to use the hammered paint. I've used the hammered paint from the spray cans on smaller projects and I really like the finish. But it's finnicky to work with. You have to keep a wet edge and apply a full-wet coat to get the hammered texture to come out. It's a delicate balance between the right coverage and runs. I'm concerned I won't be able to get proper coverage on the cabinet with spray paint. Plus the large area will be $$$ using spray cans.

In the reviews on Amazon most people have good things to say about the quart cans but there are one or two negative reviews that indicate it's hard to get even, consistent results on large surface.

Are brushes or rollers are recommended?

What's your experience?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CEOPY0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

[torqueman2002]

I've had great results spraying with small (Wilton 5" vise, etc ...) objects.

The larger objects - 2 drawer small CM tool box, 9 drawer CM upper, and 7 drawer CM lower; turned out just OK. As you mentioned you need to keep a wet edge, and brushing the boxes I didn't do that. Plus it takes a long time to completely cure. It will 'dry' to the touch in the time stated on the label, but you can still leave an impression on the paint with a tool or finger nail up to 3 weeks (in the summer) later.

I'd like to try spraying from a quart, but I don't know enough to feel comfortable trying it on an important project.

 

[fyrrguy]

I used a Touch up gun and had good luck out of the Quart can, putting thin coats on one at a time letting it set for a short time between coats, just like the spray cans, I would test on something first , Good Luck

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Yes, I do. Here's one thing I did:




On THIS thread you can read my write up.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=144618

PRO'S
This stuff in quarts is TOUGH. I applied two coats the steel beam structure above. I later applied it to a wood workbench top - 1 coat. I recently used some Ospho - which is phosphoric acid for eliminating rust on metal. I spilled some on the bench top, did a half-assed wipe off with a dry paper towel and left it. It didn't touch the Hammered paint!

CONS:

It's weird to apply. I used a little $2.79, 2-1/2" foam roller. That worked fine on the I beams in the photo above. Incidentally I did NO prep at all. The paint that was on it was tight. I dusted it off and that's all.

But for the workbench top - it's hard to describe...it gets "sticky" almost immediately. This is somehow the way the paint develops the hammer finish. For large surfaces - like a cabinet, I'd roll it with a full 9" roller. I've seen 12" and (I think) an 18" roller at Home Depot. If I were doing a BIG surface I was really concerned about getting a uniform finish on I'd use a big roller. But that WOULD get pricey.

Hope this helped. Please post photos of what you do.

 

[rlitman]

I've used it. If you are familiar with the spray, it is almost the same thing, only a little thicker, so it runs less. How hammered the finish ends up depends on the thickness of application, and there is a fine line between too thin where you get pinholes, and too thick and sags.

Like any Rustoleum product, it takes weeks to be reasonably dry, and months to reach full hardness, but once it is there, this stuff is extremely tough (same as the spray version). One idea I've been toying with (but never tried), is to do a first coat in the base color of the hammertone, so that if I have any pinholes, they aren't visible. Like any hammertone, you need to apply it all in one coat, so it goes on thicker than other paints, and takes exponentially longer to dry (the quarts dry slower than the spray BTW).

 

[Big-Foot]

Love the Hammertone finishes myself... Have not done anything but rattle-can with it though...

 

[HMCFab9]

I've used it on lots of stuff.
Mainly stands (fabricated jackstands, tables, metal sawhorses, etc)
I use the Qt cans & I usually spray it.
If you brush it, you sometimes get pinholes.
Get a cheapo primer gun (with a big spray tip) from harbor freight tools.

 

[B17E1943]

Why does Rustoleum take so long to completely dry, anyway?

 

[bgarrett]

I've used lots of quarts and like them. I believe the paint in quarts is a lot tougher, more durable. Quite often I brush it on

 

[djjsr]

I used a quart of the silver on some very old galvanized roof vents. It covered well with no primer and has held up great for a few years now. It seems to be very good quality. However, it did not result in a hammered finish. It may be because it was a very hot day when I did it and it was drying too fast?

 

[trbomax]

I've sprayed it on most of the equipment in the shop,mostly because its tough as bedliner and chips and flaws in the surface are covered up, so prep work is very minimal except for getting it oil/grease free.On my south bend I even mixed the color by blending black and silver to get the proper grey.I thin it 30 to 40% with xylene and shoot it just like any other alkyd enamel. One tack coat,one full coat 10 minutes or so later.It will dry hard in a day,no extended dry times like when its not thinned.I just use a HF gravity feed hvlp gun.Do not thin with anything other than xylene,it get snotty and settle out.

 

[trbomax]

Heres the SB and a little press I did. I just sprayed the shielding gas tank racks that I built for the tig and my little mig a couple days ago. I'll get a close in pic today of those.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Why does Rustoleum take so long to completely dry, anyway?

I've NOT found that to be the case. But then I'm not testing what I've painted to see.

The I beams above I put a 2nd coat on after 7 days per instructions. The paint on those things is incredibly hard.

 

[oltruckag]

I sprayed the dash of my '67 Scout with the dark gray. I can't remember if I thinned it (probably didn't) and kept spraying coats until I was happy with the finish. The quart sprays almost like glue and I remember it being very resistant to running.

Loved the finish, dash came out great and it is very tough - tougher than regular old rustoleum.

 

[trbomax]

These are the cylinder racks. Paint doesnt show up very well though.

 

[Big-Foot]

For you guys that thinned and sprayed -
What did you thin it with and what percentages?
What sprayer did you use?
Airless or air?
Remember what nozzle and air pressure you used?

I have a number of projects that can use this paint.

Thanks!!

 

[fflintstone]

For you guys that thinned and sprayed -
What did you thin it with and what percentages?
What sprayer did you use?
Airless or air?
Remember what nozzle and air pressure you used?

I have a number of projects that can use this paint.

Thanks!!

You can use mineral spirits but an alkalyd enamel reducer also works, I believe rustoleum thinner is just mineral spirits. Try one to 4 on the reducer, you may end up at 3 to one but it is best to thin sparingly.

 

[IndyGarage]

Like others, I've done several projects with it.

I did my sandblast cabinet and it looks great after about 2 years. I rolled it on with a foam roller.

Recently I did a wood shelf for my daughter with it - I didn't know how it was going to do on wood, so I primed the wood first with rustoleum spray primer and it turned out great also. I agree that it's a little soft - takes a few days to dry completely.

 

[dcarden]

For you guys that thinned and sprayed -
What did you thin it with and what percentages?
What sprayer did you use?
Airless or air?
Remember what nozzle and air pressure you used?

I have a number of projects that can use this paint.

Thanks!!

Bump, I know its an old thread but I would like to know as well.

 

[LG63]

Bump, I know its an old thread but I would like to know as well.

It was trial and error for me. Thin with xylene as already mentioned, going from memory at least 25% maybe more. I was using a 1.8 tip on a HVLP gun, a 2.2 would have probably worked better.
It's pretty forgiving stuff, if you can get it out of the gun you're probably okay.

 

[TGJTom]

I have a tank I was wanting to paint. It's 8" in diameter and about 2' long. It has a tapered neck at one end. What would be the best way to do this? I was thinking of using a small foam roller. Any advice on the best approach and any hints on applying it?

 

[Nowater]

I have a tank I was wanting to paint. It's 8" in diameter and about 2' long. It has a tapered neck at one end. What would be the best way to do this? I was thinking of using a small foam roller. Any advice on the best approach and any hints on applying it?

This is a small area, and would be easy enough to just paint it with a brush. I plan on throwing away the brush when done. You will have paint left over from a quart. Find a way to hold the tank so that you can paint the whole thing all at once if possible.

 

[TGJTom]

Thanks, Nowater. I'll go the brush route and hang the tank so I can paint it all at once.

 

[Sharpest]

I've sprayed it on most of the equipment in the shop,mostly because its tough as bedliner and chips and flaws in the surface are covered up, so prep work is very minimal except for getting it oil/grease free.On my south bend I even mixed the color by blending black and silver to get the proper grey.I thin it 30 to 40% with xylene and shoot it just like any other alkyd enamel. One tack coat,one full coat 10 minutes or so later.It will dry hard in a day,no extended dry times like when its not thinned.I just use a HF gravity feed hvlp gun.Do not thin with anything other than xylene,it get snotty and settle out.

This. I sprayed some off road truck wheels with the hammered silver. It is incredibly tough, the wheels scrape rocks frequently and the paint held up like a boss. I thinned with xylene and sprayed three heavy coats pretty much back-to-back out of a harbor freight gun. I left them sitting for a month or so to cure and couldn't have been happier with the result.

 

[routemaster]

Hi guys just joined this forum. I have bought a quart of Silver Hammer Paint and in process of painting the skirt around the 5th wheel trailer.I am using a good qualty 3" Purdy brush. It is not going on to well at all, not to happy. I see someone here saying a foam roller is the best. I am thinking that the paint is a bit on the thick side and may want some thinners.
What do you reckon?
Den.

 

[dragginbalz]

Welcome!

I just used some not too long ago and I had good success with a foam roller. You definitely want to keep it wet. It is better to put too much paint on and then even it out than to roll it dry.

Large flat areas are very difficult to apply, in my opinion.

Good luck!

 

[BigSteve63]

Foam roller is absolutely the best. Also, as mentioned, put it on thick. I did my workbench frame with this stuff and foam roller - no prep to the tubing and it turned out great. Does take a while to harden completely when put on thick, but dries super hard.

Steve

 

[Fueler]

I have used the quarts with success. However, as mentioned before it's a bit tricky so I learned if I was doing a cabinet that I could not lay down I started on the back where no one would see. Figured out where the run / no run point was, then went forward.

The silly/nice thing about hammer paint is that you have to have a really nasty run for anyone to notice. Shop stuff isn't eyed as critically as a hot rod paint job.

 

[rlitman]

Hi guys just joined this forum. I have bought a quart of Silver Hammer Paint and in process of painting the skirt around the 5th wheel trailer.I am using a good qualty 3" Purdy brush. It is not going on to well at all, not to happy. I see someone here saying a foam roller is the best. I am thinking that the paint is a bit on the thick side and may want some thinners.
What do you reckon?
Den.

What kind of Purdy brush? They make all sorts. Hammertone brush on paint is very thick, and I find that it needs a natural bristle brush (white china bristle) to match its viscosity. While a Purdy XL-Glide (one of my favorites in blended polyester bristles) will say it is for all paints (their Nylox is only for water based paints), and even claims it is stiff, it is still far too soft for Hammertone.

If you really need a thinner paint, get the spray on Hammertone.

So, what sort of issues are you having? The brush on Hammertone needs to go on pretty thick for the hammer dents to develop without pin holing. If you thin it, you'll end up with runs and may even orangepeel. Do not thin Hammertone. Just be careful around corners and places where extra paint may want to stick until it drips into a run. If you get it right, the brush strokes will level out and the hammered appearance will start to show up perhaps a minute after you've brushed the area.

Also, be aware that it stays pretty soft for a long time. But given a few months of hardening time, it ends up harder than any other paint I know.

 

[astroracer]

I use the quarts, spray them with a gun and add some hardener to eliminate the "tacky" phase. Used hammered silver on the Astro frame I am building. Sprayed it with the hardener added and it was set up like a rock in under an hour.

Mark

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

^^^ I'm impressed. This stuff is rock hard without hardner; at least it was for me. And it looks so nice too.

I assumed (wrongly I guess) that it wouldn't spray very successfully as it might "go off" and get stringy/tacky quickly as it did when I painted it with a foam roller. But mine STILL came out with a really nice consistent hammered finish.

 

[ilovevocs]

I have used the quarts with success. However, as mentioned before it's a bit tricky so I learned if I was doing a cabinet that I could not lay down I started on the back where no one would see. Figured out where the run / no run point was, then went forward.

The silly/nice thing about hammer paint is that you have to have a really nasty run for anyone to notice. Shop stuff isn't eyed as critically as a hot rod paint job.

Runs are real easy to address if they occur.

Just use a lint free cloth and dab the run until it’s gone. Hit with air for a moment to force dry: fog a little in then pull back, let it rip, and blend it in. You have to have good trigger / gun control to feather it in but it is very achievable.

 

[jerrywilson]

Wow! How cool it looks