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Rustoleum Professional Series Epoxy - Basement Floor

Greg_WV

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Dec 2, 2014
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I am currently in the middle of applying Rustoleum Professional Series Epoxy to my basement floor. I figured I should share my experiences as I have gotten lots of insight from this forum.

I just started finishing a portion of my basement that is approximately 22'x26'. I have framed up walls to enclose a laundry/shower room and the remaining space will be turned into a bar area. I decided epoxy flooring would be a good choice for the concrete slab in the bar area. I liked the idea of having a nice looking floor but to maintain the utility of concrete with floor drains. I also thought it would be quick and cost effective (boy was I wrong...).

I decided on using the Rustoleum Professional series after a little research. It seemed to have good reviews and was a little more durable than the water based kits but still an economic DIY kit. I know it’s not recommended for basements because it is solvent based but I took precautions to mitigate concerns (windows with exhaust fan/no pilot light/paint respirators).

The area I am applying epoxy is 397 square feet so I initially thought one kit would be perfect (300-400 square feet of coverage). I then became nervous that I would run out when 90% done so I ordered a second kit. Wasn't sure whether to mix up 1 1/2 kits and be done in one coat or do 2 kits. I eventually decided on 2 coats and glad I did. I am using the dunes sand with color flakes. I am using the 4 lbs or flakes that came with the 2 kits and purchased an additional 4 lbs of flakes for a total of 8 lbs, or 1 lb/50 sq.ft. which will be a pretty heavy broadcast.

I thought the prep would be nothing more than a good scrub down. I quickly realized an acid etch would be required. I knew all the rinsing and scrubbing would be a little cumbersome in the basement vs. a garage, but I have 2 floor drains and decided it would be fine. I had initially purchased muriatic acid for the etch but later decided the Rustoleum citrus etch would be a safer choice for my indoor conditions.

I performed the moisture test and didn’t have any issues. I had read that if the concrete was sealed, epoxy could not be applied over it. I somehow had deduced that my floor was not sealed but decided I better test with a cup of water just before my weekend of prep began. I watched the water bead up and do everything but soak into the slab much to my dismay. I then knew grinding was my only option.

I spent a few hours researching my options for grinding and found our my options were:

1)Rent Edco single head grinder for $95/day plus diamond wheel from local rental place for $75/day ($170/day)

2)Rent Home Depot floor buffer for $40/day and diamabrush prep tool for $70/day ($110/day)

3)Buy 7” angle grinder and diamabrush wheel/diamond turbo cup

I never like the idea of renting and don’t like being rushed. I was also concerned about getting worn out diamonds. Additionally, the closest Home Depot was 1.5 hours away and dust containment would be an issue with the floor buffer. Both of the larger machines would not be able to reach edges and tight areas.

I ultimately decided to purchase a 7” Makita angle grinder (I had wanted a 7” grinder and this was a good excuse to buy one). I also bought the diamabrush wheel and diamabrush shoud (which is actually designed for the Makita grinder).

The next hurdle was dust containment. I read about the dust deputy and was very close to purchasing a dustless shop vac but ultimately decided to borrow a shop vac and used the dustless vacuum bags.

Now, onto pictures….

Pictures show a couple rough Sketchup drawings of what the basement may look like when finished, removing and plugging an old water well, the basement before starting the grinding, and grinder setup.

More to follow.
 

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Greg_WV

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Dec 2, 2014
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I was initially very pleased with the diamabrush for the first 100 sq.ft. of concrete prep as it seemed to be doing a good job and was easy to not leave cup marks. I then realized that 4 of the blades were considerably worn and the other 4 looked barely touched. I thought the wheel may be not quite true and was worried half the blades would wear out prematurely. I then swapped the blades side to side hoping to even out the wear. At first the wheel was quite rough with until the blades wore more even. After that they started wear better but the diamabrush didn't seem to cut near as well. I thought the diamonds might have glazed over and tried to freshen them up with a little water and pushing down onto the concrete. This helped for a little bit but still didn't seem to be performing up to par. I got about 2/3 of the floor done in a few hours with lots of breaks (would not want to do this again). By the end of the day I also noticed one of the diamond blades had broken off. I was careful to not apply much if any pressure when grinding but there were a few uneven spots in the slab that may have applied excessive pressure to the diamabrush.

Ultimately I didn't have confidence the diamabrush could finish the remaining floor so I purchased a Dewalt Turbo Cup. The turbo cup was definitely more aggressive than the diamabrush but I was still able to avoid cup marks by keeping it moving. It also did much better on smoothing any uneven portions.
 

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Greg_WV

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Dec 2, 2014
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The dustless vacuum bags did a great job at containing the dust. I wore a dust mask as an extra precaution especially when doing edges and flipping up the shroud. The first bag lasted for ~1/2 the floor and the second only lasted for 45 minutes of grinding before ripping. Both ripped open at the seems. I had to purchase drywall dust bags locally to finish the final 1/3 of the floor. I got a pack of 2 shop vac brand and a pack of 2 craftsman brand. They were paper vs. fabric of the dustless and didn't last long at all before getting holes and letting the shop vac filter clog. It took all 4 bags to finish the final 1/3 of the floor! I had to blow out the shop vac filter with compressed air mutliple times as well (after the bags ripped).

I used some course sandpaper to get the corners the grinder couldn't reach. Not near the same profile as the grinder got but was getting burnt out and didn't think the corners would see much wear anyway.

Next I used the Rustoleum concrete patch to fill all the cracks and imperfections.

After letting it dry overnight, I attempted to sand it with a palm sander and 60 grit sandpaper. This didn't do much of anything to the rock solid epoxy patch. I had the patches pretty smooth but didn't trust just painting over them as is. I was worried going over them with the turbo cup with take forever and risk leaving cup marks everywhere. I decided to switch back to the diamabrush to remove the epoxy patch. It worked perfect for this! After all, it was made to remove coatings! The final picture is with the initial patches ground off and a second application of epoxy patch.
 

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Greg_WV

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First coat of epoxy went down last Sunday night. Went down pretty easy and took about 1.5 hours with me cutting in with the chip brush and 4" roller and my wife following behind with a 9" roller. We left some brush marks and drips and some areas look a little uneven but I have read this is common with the first coat.



I have been walking over the dry epoxy with clean bare feet to get to and from the shower and then realized I may be leaving oil that could effect the second coat. I called the Rustoleum help line to see if my concerns were founded. They didn't think it would be an issue but could wipe down with a solvent if concerned. After talking with them for any additional tips, they suggested I scuff the floor up with 80 grit sand paper before the second coat (tomorrow night - 96 hours after first coat) since I had waited that long.

Ughhh, more prep work!:(
 

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Greg_WV

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Forgot to mention, I had a good amount of epoxy left after finishing the first coat, 3"-4" maybe in a 5 gallon bucket. Guess I could have laid it down a little thicker.

I really like the looks of a heavy broadcast of flakes but didn't want to buy 30+ lbs it takes to do full rejection. I have read many threads where people said they had 10 lbs of flakes but by the time the finished, they realized they only used ~2 lbs. I want to make sure I use my entire 8 lbs, but also want to distribute them evenly.

I sectioned one side of the room off into 18 squares close to 4'x4' as reccomended and the other side into 6 similar sized squares.

I measured a pound of flakes to be about 2 2/3 - 2 3/4 cups. I then figured the 18 squares needed about 7/8 cup of flakes each and the 6 larger squares 1 1/8 cups each and left myself 1/2 cup of extra flakes.

I divided the flakes up and put into solo cups for easy portioning and spreading. I marked the corners of the grid out of the floor with light pencil marks to use as a guide and made a "color by numbers" guide for us.

I may have over engineered the flake distribution, but hey, I am an engineer...:headscrat
 

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Greg_WV

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Dec 2, 2014
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That's where I am now. Going to try scuffing the floor up tonight and final vacuum before the second coat.

Tomorrow night is the second coat and flakes with clear coat to follow Friday or Saturday.

Can't wait to be done with this, hoping the juice is worth the squeeze!
 
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150ron

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Apr 11, 2016
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Wow, you're very well organized, awesome, i just did me floors with rustoleum, very happy with it, you will need more clear coat then you think, it ***** it right up.
 

Armorpoxy

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We always say the secret is in the preparation. Prepping of the floor and being organized, neat and having a plan and all will go well!
 
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Greg_WV

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Dec 2, 2014
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Spent an hour last night scuffed up the entire floor with a pole sander and 100 grit paper because that's what I had. Hopefully good enough for proper adhesion.

I vacuumed a couple more times and then did a "test" square with the flakes. Pretty happy with it. Swept them up and and put back in their cup.

I think I am going to leave the vertical surfaces of the stairs plain tan as I don't think I want to mess with throwing chips at the vertical surface and vacuuming up the excess (think it would just be frustrating and a big mess).

In all my concrete prep I kinda forgot to de-rust the floor drain... :eyecrazy:
I wire wheeled and ground the drain cover the other night and primed and painted the bottom black. Going to do the top with the epoxy and hit with flakes to blend in. Will have to de-rust and paint the bottom of the floor drain once the epoxy floor is all done and completely cured. I elevated the drain cover so I don't paint it in place.

You can see some of the roller marks in the close up pictures as well as the scuffed surface from sanding. Rolled East-West on the first coat and going North-South on the second coat. Hoping the second coat along with a heavy broadcast of flakes hides all the imperfections!

I mixed up the epoxy and am waiting 30-60 minutes to start rolling. Was a little concerned because the Part A activator gallon from this kit seems thicker than what I remember from the last kit. Once kit came from Amazon and one from Summit Racing so I'm sure from different batches/age. Not sure if the thinner or thicker is "normal" but hopefully no issues because I am committed now.

It has been raining off and on so humidity is a little high. Basement is currently 68 degrees and 71% humidity. The kit says humidity must be below 85% so again, hopefully no issues.

I turned on my dehumidifier to try and and help a little, but also have windows open for ventilation....:dunno:

I will be using 3/4" spiked shoes for this application to help with spreading the flakes. Also, I have been using the Wooster 4" and 9" epoxy roller covers. I have read mixed reviews on them but didn't have any issues with them on the first coat.


Time to start rolling! :rocker:
 

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Greg_WV

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Second coat and flakes are done! Took about 2 hours. Was a little nervous as this batch seemed thicker and thought coverage and pot life would be decreased but finished with excess epoxy again.

The grid and cups of portioned flakes helped immensely, can't imagine doing without them. Used all the flakes except about a 1/4 cup of my "extra" flakes.

I almost didn't bother getting spiked shoes but am very glad I did. Made it MUCH easier to distribute flakes evenly and to finish the final area and stairs. Again, can't imagine trying to do without.


A few areas flakes went down a little heavier where some slipped out of my hand or just natural doubling up but very pleased with the overall look.

Will sweep/vacuum extra flakes tomorrow and put done the clear coat and finally be done with this project! :beer:
 

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Greg_WV

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Glad I decided to leave the vertical surfaces of the stairs unflaked. I like the two tone look and also think it helps to see the stairs better. If all flaked, might camouflage the steps to an extent. The drain cover blends in well.

The second coat and heavy flakes do a very good job of hiding any imperfections. I have a hard time finding any roller marks or known imperfections in the concrete.

Vacuumed up excess flakes and then put down Rustoleum Premium Clear Coat. The clear coat has a stronger smell and more warnings in the instructions than the color epoxy. Directions say you have 90 minutes to apply. Took about 45 minutes to roll it all out. Used every last drop and barely had enough to finish my 400 square feet. Kit says it will cover 500 square feet of a previously coated surface but figure my heavy flake broadcast adds a little excess surface area. The clear coat was hard to see and used a spot light to check each area over for missed spots. We again followed the grid pattern which helped a lot to ensure full coverage.

Looking forward to getting a closer look at it when dry tomorrow.





Hard to believe, but I think this project is finally finished! :beer: :thumbup: :bounce:
 

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Greg_WV

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The clear coat takes it to a new level! Very happy with the final result.

So far, I have noticed two spots were we missed clear coat altogether. One is a 3/4" x 6" strip but the other is ~6"x12" :wtf:

Is there anything to use to touch up/cover spots we missed without getting an entire gallon kit? Understand it won't be perfect but something to give the epoxy a little gloss and hold the flakes down. Polyurethane or clear nail polish (that's what it smelled like...)?
 
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