Rustoleum Question

[Beemer]

I have an exterior steel door to (re)paint in place with Rustoleum oil based Stops Rust enamel.
The door is too heavy for me to remove to get a horizontal working surface. Gravity!

Any advice on the brush-on application technique and /or alterations to the paint?
I don't have equipment to spray nor the patience for multiple coat timing and density of paint applied. And there is too much concern of overspray on the surrounding areas,
I've lost my knack not having spray painted in many many years.

The last couple Rustoleum brush projects have been a challenge. Rustoleum seems to like to leave brush marks unless put on really heavily and then there is no going back into the painted areas. The paint just doesn't seem to flow to cover the strokes, especially if disturbed.
This door is a recessed panel door so there is some need to hit the transition areas and come back in when doing the flats.

Perhaps it might be good to paint the recessed areas and come back to the surrounding raised areas after the recessed areas dry eliminating back brushing into the previously painted edges.

Any recommendations?

Would using a roller introduce more problems?

Also, I've seen some threads noting using a hardener (for a different reason).
It would be nice to have more durability but wouldn't that make application even harder?

 

[CGT80]

A 1/4 nap 6" wide roller is good if you're ok with a little orange peel. Slap it on with the roller, then brush the transitions of the panels, and roll the flats again. Do it quickly and in the shade to keep a wet edge.

It is better if it is a used roller cover that has been washed well after using water based paint or primer....to get the fuzz out.

Penetrol can make it flow better. Acetone makes it set very fast for spraying. Different colors actually stated to use different thinner in the past. I used a lot of safety red and used acetone when I sprayed it with a conventional binks gun.

 

[MovingAlong]

I painted a couple front doors in place, six panel, with a brush after thinning with acetone. Never again...

If you can't spray it, and you can't paint it flat, then you need to know now that it's going to look rough. Paint flows out smooth when flat, when horizontal it runs. If you add acetone, it won't run - but it won't flow out either and you'll have heavy brush marks.

Rollers work (1/4" microfiber 4" is my recommendation), but it's either going to run or leave a texture.

I've called Rustoleum (their 800 number is on the can) for advice. That phone is staffed with competent people who know their product, see what they might recommend.

Finally though, flat will be more forgiving than gloss.

And try painting something else in a horizontal position. You'll quickly see how the different tools and materials work together, pick one that works for you. May not be perfect, but that's ok.

 

[Ultradog MN]

I have an exterior steel door to (re)paint in place with Rustoleum oil based Stops Rust enamel.
The door is too heavy for me to remove to get a horizontal working surface. Gravity!

Any advice on the brush-on application technique and /or alterations to the paint?
I don't have equipment to spray nor the patience for multiple coat timing and density of paint applied. And there is too much concern of overspray on the surrounding areas,
I've lost my knack not having spray painted in many many years.

The last couple Rustoleum brush projects have been a challenge. Rustoleum seems to like to leave brush marks unless put on really heavily and then there is no going back into the painted areas. The paint just doesn't seem to flow to cover the strokes, especially if disturbed.
This door is a recessed panel door so there is some need to hit the transition areas and come back in when doing the flats.

Perhaps it might be good to paint the recessed areas and come back to the surrounding raised areas after the recessed areas dry eliminating back brushing into the previously painted edges.

Any recommendations?

Would using a roller introduce more problems?

Also, I've seen some threads noting using a hardener (for a different reason).
It would be nice to have more durability but wouldn't that make application even harder?

Do not use a nylon brush!
Buy a white CHINA BRISTLE brush.
They are trying to sell erzatz china bristle brushes now days. Do not buy one.
Buy a real china bristle. They have been around for a hundred years and are made from pig hair. (Really.)
I have painted a lot of cast iron tractor parts and old machines with oil based paints and the brush is the secret.
You will not get the finish that spraying will give you but you will get a durable, high gloss finish.
Do not paint your door in the hot sun. Do it on a cool, cloudy day. Use the paint straight out of the can. You will likely need to second coat. If so, do it within 24 hours and use a wee bit of thinner. That will reduce - but not entirely eliminate - brush marks.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

You can use a roller with Rustoleum. Probably use a short nap if you're painting a smooth surface. While it is a slightly different application, I prepped and painted steel pipe for fencing (different in that there is surface putting/texture, not smooth like your project), I rolled on Rustoleum.

Now my thoughts are slighty different than Ultradog above. I think you should use a mixture of hardener and thinner in the paint. These two things will allow the paint to flow (to not leave much of a brush or roller pattern) and to dry quickly. Of course, you as the applicator still have to be appropriate about rolling it on. You can't apply so much paint at once that it runs and then expect a miracle perfect result if you didn't do your part. Perhaps on your application, do a couple test spots and see what does end up working for you. Rustoleum Professional is very thick. That may be to your advantage or disadvantage. Definitely paint in the shade and do it in the morning before the air and work piece surface starts getting really hot. Don't be alarmed but the painted surface may stay tacky. If that's the case, just let it sit a couple more days, now is where the heat/sun is good. It'll set up.

I like Rustoleum professional paint. Little more expensive but a solid paint for an outdoor project. I used Majic catalyst hardener and standard paint thinner. I can't remember the ratios I used, but I watched a lot of paint videos of guys in the garage using Rustoleum and took my info from there. After painting 20+ pipe sections, some on stands horizontal, some vertically standing in place on the fenceline, I ended up eyeballing with 'splashes' and 'capfuls'. But in those videos is also info on results of others ratios that you can apply for brush/roller applications.

And at the end of the day, if the result is not perfect, hit it with a hand sander and reapply a finish coat.

I would recommend using Rustoleum red iron primer before your paint coat. In the primer, also use catalyst and thinner.

 

[strutaeng]

Is the metal rusty? Maybe a little awning or porch will be a good idea for long term durability.

You can try reducing the Rustoleum with mineral spirits (paint thinner), around 10-15%. You have to do 2 coats I'm guessing, depending on the color. Use China bristle paintbrush as was already suggested.

Another option is to use their rusty primer (or regular primers). Let it dry completely and you can sand any imperfections.

For the topcoat, I've been having excellent experience with these newer waterbornes. They level out really good and provide good color holdout if you have sun exposure being that they are acrylic vs the alkyds that will fade and start chalking quickly. I tried this product on a garage cabinet I made and was really impressed by it. It dries really fast also, maybe a bit too fast depending on weather. They require a different application approach: a very fast paint on, and a lay-off, and done. Don't go back reworking the area like oil.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BY3FWS4Q?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Beemer]

Thanks guys,
To answer some questions, the door is always in the shade, it is not rusty and has a previous full coverage of what I recall was Rustoleum oil based enamel paint. I don't remember having such trouble with their paint before recent years.
The previous project was a steel hand rail. It was problematic getting nice coverage on even just that 1 1/2" pipe on sawhorses in the garage.

I have a name brand white china bristle brush to use and as getting to a horizontal work surface, as noted it's a bit heavy at this stage of life but we have weekly visits from our black bear community so the house can't be left open at night and I know Rustoleum is very slow to dry so that would have to happen.

For a followup question, are there other paints would go over the old oil enamel and be more forgiving with respect to application?
The door has been prepped by washing with Dawn and a brush, then light sanding to scuff it up, priming (clean metal primer) of a few areas where minimal flaking occured (scraped and sanded) and rinsed.

Strutaeng; Is the paint you referenced able to go atop the old oil based enamel? It appears to only be available in satin though, right?

 

[CGT80]

That paint above is water based. Never use water over oil. It will peel off easily. It would need to be completely primed first. Water based primer (I only use zinsser primers) will stick to oil. Kilz primer requires sanding glossy surfaces. Zinsser sticks to glossy surfaces and even glass and tile.

Some of the water based paints also dry way too fast now. Oil based has always been something you can't work too much......at least for the 30 years I have been doing it. Water based used to be more forgiving.

 

[nadogail]

I generally use Spray Cans with Rustoleum

 

[Ultradog MN]

Kind of an afterthought here.
This is kind of my magnum opus of brush jobs. My old lathe that I did a major rehab on last winter. I used the PPG's Omni primer first then two coats of their paint. The paint and primer were $$ but flowed on better than any other paint I have ever brushed on.

 

[Beemer]

Kind of an afterthought here.
This is kind of my magnum opus of brush jobs. My old lathe that I did a major rehab on last winter. I used the PPG's Omni primer first then two coats of their paint. The paint and primer were $$ but flowed on better than any other paint I have ever brushed on.

Looks good.

 

[Beemer]

On a previous project I contacted Rustoleum about a hardener and was met with strong disapproval warning that any change of the formula would void their responsibility. But I've read it has been done and some recommended it.

A concern thinking about the door now is having the door out of service at the end of the day giving, as mentioned before, we have "lions, tigers and bears" randomly come a visiting.
How much affect does the hardener(Krylon?) have on drying time?
And is it so fast as to hamper application of the paint?

 

[oldmachinenut]

I painted my Quincy 325 80 gallon compressor with Rustoleum safety blue. I used a 4” roller on the tank and a China bristle brush on the pump, this is 2 coats.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Do not use a nylon brush!
Buy a white CHINA BRISTLE brush.
They are trying to sell erzatz china bristle brushes now days. Do not buy one.
Buy a real china bristle. They have been around for a hundred years and are made from pig hair. (Really.)
I have painted a lot of cast iron tractor parts and old machines with oil based paints and the brush is the secret.
You will not get the finish that spraying will give you but you will get a durable, high gloss finish.
Do not paint your door in the hot sun. Do it on a cool, cloudy day. Use the paint straight out of the can. You will likely need to second coat. If so, do it within 24 hours and use a wee bit of thinner. That will reduce - but not entirely eliminate - brush marks.

Yes, a good brush will make a big difference. I've had some Purdy brand brushes for years that are a pleasure to use, although I don't know if their quality is still good.

It may be worth practicing a little with some scrap metal held in a vertical position to get the hang of it.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

I didn't read every response but has anyone suggested he add a little Penetrol to the paint for the brush strokes to flow out smoothly?

 

[Stuart in MN]

I didn't read every response but has anyone suggested he add a little Penetrol to the paint for the brush strokes to flow out smoothly?

Yes, in the first response.

 

[Beemer]

So is Penetrol basically a retarder (as apposed to an accelerator) ?

 

[CraigStu]

I have been away from boats for 15 yrs so no longer remember internet resources but it might be worth an hour of your time on the web. Many of their boat deck and especially hull paints are specifically made for brush or roller since they have such a large area to cover and can't deal w/ the loss of paint from spraying. I say hull since they are always painted w/ the hull being vertical. I also remember there are some additives for doing just what you need, making roller or brush flow and look like it was sprayed.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Kind of an afterthought here.
This is kind of my magnum opus of brush jobs. My old lathe that I did a major rehab on last winter. I used the PPG's Omni primer first then two coats of their paint. The paint and primer were $$ but flowed on better than any other paint I have ever brushed on.

Nice detailed work.