Yankeefarmer
Well-known member
Try acetone. I have used up several cans of the rusty metal primer over the last few years. After spraying, I remove the nozzle and flush acetone through it using a wash bottle.
Rustoleum spray cans - absolute garbage
- Thread starter stickshift
- Start date
05snopro440
Well-known member
I've had the same issue with several brands, but most often with Rust-Oleum. A few weeks ago I was spraying a brand new steel fender with Dupli-color black primer and the first spray was stipple and completely ruined the finish I had going. Having said that, I've never had a tip clog on Dupli-color, where I often have on Rust-Oleum or Tremclad.
I have been trying to refinish an old snowblower with Rust-Oleum and it's an exercise in frustration. Nearly every time I try to spray I run into problems, I have partially empty cans I can't use because they do nothing but plug, and the stuff runs like a deer.
I use a lot of different spray paints, and I think Rust-Oleum and Tremclad have some real problems.
I have been trying to refinish an old snowblower with Rust-Oleum and it's an exercise in frustration. Nearly every time I try to spray I run into problems, I have partially empty cans I can't use because they do nothing but plug, and the stuff runs like a deer.
I use a lot of different spray paints, and I think Rust-Oleum and Tremclad have some real problems.
Spitfiremk16
Member
- Joined
- Mar 6, 2022
- Messages
- 7
One thing I have found that makes a big improvement with rust oleum spray cans is using this cap adaptor and spray can caps.
shop.bombingscience.com
more caps can be bought very inexpensively here.
shop.bombingscience.com
Buy yourself a couple 25 packs of caps and whenever the cap gets clogged throw it out and get a fresh one. Sometimes you will get a can that still won’t spray even with a fresh cap and or fresh cap adaptor but this definitely eliminates a lot of the clogged cap issues I was having and these caps have a much finer spray pattern and give a better finish to boot! And yes the site that sells these parts is catered towards teenagers that use railroad cars as their “canvas” for their “art”.
WingCap + 5 NY Fats
The WingCap lets you use your favorite caps on your local hardware paint brands, like Rustoleum, American Accent and many more. Buy it with 5 NY Fats and save!
shop.bombingscience.com
more caps can be bought very inexpensively here.
NY Fats
NY Fats caps. The most popular fat cap. Fits on: DANG, Molotow Premium, Flame, Montana, Belton and more graffiti spray paint brands... QUANTITY DISCOUNTS: .tg {border-collapse:collapse;border-spacing:0;} .tg td{border-color:black;border-style:solid;border-width:1px;font-family:Arial...
shop.bombingscience.com
Buy yourself a couple 25 packs of caps and whenever the cap gets clogged throw it out and get a fresh one. Sometimes you will get a can that still won’t spray even with a fresh cap and or fresh cap adaptor but this definitely eliminates a lot of the clogged cap issues I was having and these caps have a much finer spray pattern and give a better finish to boot! And yes the site that sells these parts is catered towards teenagers that use railroad cars as their “canvas” for their “art”.
I'm in the camp of Rustoleum being "garbage". I have a dozen cans on my shelf that will not spray. I contacted the company and they acted like they never heard of this complaint and they also sent me a dozen new nozzles. The new nozzels did NOT fix the clog on any of the cans. I asked the service guy if I needed to turn the can upside down and the end of a spraying and he said the new cans did not require that anymore. They know they have an issue with the cans, not the nozzels.
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
I do not doubt your experience. My experience, however has been the exact opposite. For at least 15 years, I have used only Rustoleum spray paint and keep an inventory of at least 8 colors and multiple cans of each. When I grab a can, if new, I shake it up and go to painting. If the can is used, I shake it up and then grab a clean nozzle and go to painting. As soon as I finish painting, the nozzle comes off and is dropped into a glass jar containing enough acetone to cover the nozzle. Periodically, I fish the nozzles out of the acetone, blow compressed air thru them and add them to the jar of clean nozzles. I wonder why your experience and mine are different?
DGersic
Well-known member
Because it’s not the nozzle. I have several cans here that sprayed fine when new. Then were stored (basement) for a while. They are now partially full, and completely useless, because they are plugged internally. The nozzle is fine, I can blow through it. Nothing comes out of the can.
rayra
Well-known member
Yeah it's the sludge in the bottom of the can.
I've taken to also shaking them upside down. I especially do the same with stains and varnishes / poly.
I've also been known to put spray cans in a sink full of very warm water or set them out in the sun well before use / shaking.
Warmer the material gets, the better it flows, the better it lays down. The faster if off-gasses.
I've taken to also shaking them upside down. I especially do the same with stains and varnishes / poly.
I've also been known to put spray cans in a sink full of very warm water or set them out in the sun well before use / shaking.
Warmer the material gets, the better it flows, the better it lays down. The faster if off-gasses.
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larry4406
Well-known member
I do the sun and warm water bath trick also. I like the inverted shaking; had not thought of that but its smart.
Glad this came up as I was doing some painting recently. I have an embarrassingly old collection of spray paint. some dating pack to the late 90's and early 2000s. What I've noticed is the sprayer types, at least on the new Rustoleum cans really ****. Clogging aside, the spray pattern is terrible. I have some older cans that have the slotted nozzle type with the tip that can be adjusted for horizontal or vertical spraying. Those type, even after sitting around for over two decades spray so flat and with a gradual fan pattern, there is no reason to use a spray gun (unless you need it for higher quality paint).
The new Rustoleum and Krylon cans have a spray pattern that seems to be optimized for graffiti. At 12" away from whatever you are painting you get a circle that is about 1.5-2" in diameter. Its so easy to get runs by trying to overlap previous lines, just ridiculous.
The new Rustoleum and Krylon cans have a spray pattern that seems to be optimized for graffiti. At 12" away from whatever you are painting you get a circle that is about 1.5-2" in diameter. Its so easy to get runs by trying to overlap previous lines, just ridiculous.
I took two of the clogged cans (gloss wht., and flat wht), shook them for several minutes, warmed them and nothing will come out. Even with the nozzle cap off, pressing the stem against a hard surface, nothing releases. Then I applied 120 psi compressed air down into the open valve of the cans, thinking it might force any clog back into the can. Nothing. One is absolutely full and the other about half full.
I bought 4 cans of the "pro" Rustoleum. One wouldn't spray at all, pipe for the nozzle was plugged best i can tell.
One sprayed about 50% of the can and they started "shitting" and making a mess. And wouldn't stop.
2 were ok.
I returned the 2 bad ones, lady at Home Depot didn't bat an eye, says returns for junk spray cans is very very common. Id imagine across all brands, she didn't say.
rayra
Well-known member
I started doing it with quarts of varnishes and stains - make damned sure the lib is on tight and even then hold it on while you shake. Most of those cans sit around for a long time between uses and everything settles out. But at least with things with a big lid you can scrape the bottom of the can before you stir or shake it up.
Dagny
Well-known member
All spray cans **** and have for a long time.
rayra
Well-known member
That might lead to the paint in the pickup tube drying and clogging things for good. Better bottom-down IMAO.
Spray paint cans almost all say you are supposed to invert the can when you are done and blow them clear. I used to do that, but would then run out of pressure before I ran out of paint. So I just try to wipe the nozzle while they are still wet and shake them up.
I've also taken to keeping my wood glue, putty and whatever spray paint I'm actively using on top of the dryer enroute to the attached garage. Instead of leaving them in the cold garage. But that's just when I'm in the middle of a project using those things. Cold wood glue is a drag.
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
I never said the problem was the nozzle. Unless you believe in some conspiracy theory that has almost all good cans of paint shipped to wherever I happen to by them and almost all bad cans shipped to wherever you buy them, it would seem logical that there is something different in the handling of the cans between us. Mine are stored in a shop that never drops below about 40 degrees and I never attempt to turn the cans upside down and spray to clear nozzle like was done on old style spray cans. My cans are stored upright with the nozzle removed and the caps on. What do you do different?
DGersic
Well-known member
No conspiracy theories here. Basement is generally in the upper 60s to low 70s. I do spray upside down to clear them when done. Maybe that’s the difference? I dunno. Tired of wasting money on dead cans, I’ve switched to another brand.
captaindiode
Well-known member
My guess would be a reduction in VOC content making the paint thicker. Even latex is hard to brush out and have it level before it dries anymore.
I bought a small high end small graco sprayer (quick shot) that can handle both oil and latex and that uses fine finish tips. I'm going to try using that for few projects...nothing with hardener or 2k type stuff of course. Just straight Rustoleum out of the cans, and with a full faced 3M charcoal mask. This was bought primarily to use for latex paint on cabinets and car siding (as in the stuff similar to shiplap), but I'm going to see if it can be used for this. If not, I'll get a HF five stage turbine.
I think most of that is due to the Primer, Paint and Drywall compound in One coat they think all consumers want. The Pro paints that don't have a primer seem to work well. I really like the Behr Pro i series paints, they lay down like spray paint almost. So flat and smooth they'll show every flaw in your drywall, lol.
Anyone else noticed that Amazon has been selling a variety of Rustoleum paints for under $3 per can. I've bought three 6 pack cases when colors I use come up for under 18 dollars.
I hope they're just not dumping a known defective product.
I hope they're just not dumping a known defective product.
Anyone else noticed that Amazon has been selling a variety of Rustoleum paints for under $3 per can. I've bought three 6 pack cases when colors I use come up for under 18 dollars.
I hope they're just not dumping a known defective product.
Be sure to report on what you get.
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andyvh1959
Well-known member
Hmm. Store the can upside down until shaking them to get ready to spray? Shake it like usual, but maybe starting with a can stored upside down may help get the product mixed when shaking it.
But then, simply shake the can upside down is the same effect. May have to try one of those sawzall attachments to shake the can.
But then, simply shake the can upside down is the same effect. May have to try one of those sawzall attachments to shake the can.
Bolster
Well-known member
Thanks for this thread, guys! The "Sawzall Shaker" is a great idea! Took me 45 minutes to fab my own, but now I can shake the living cr@p out of my rattle cans. Wish I could post a movie, it's entertaining (if you have low standards for entertainment, as I do).
Happy new year to all!
PS: I have never gotten the "force air back into the can to clear the dip tube/update pipe" trick to work. The internet recommends using a car tire valve stem to blast some air back into the can, via your compressor. The car tire valve stem makes a decent seal around the can's bare stem when the Nozzle/Actuator/Trigger/Push-Button/Spray-Head has been removed (in the cases where the stem is part of the can). But. Hasn't worked for me yet. I read that a rattle can will have 30-50 PSI in it, so I haven't tried more pressure than that.
PPS: I have had several Nozzle/Actuator/Trigger/Push-Button/Spray-Heads spit their tiny Orifice Inserts out. What I'm calling the "Orifice Insert" is that tiny, usually red, piece of plastic in the (usually white) Nozzle/Actuator/Trigger/Push-Button/Spray-Head. The Orfice Insert is the part that has the very tiny tiny hole in it. Don't know what's causing this ejection, possibly soaking the Nozzle/Actuator/Trigger/Push-Button/Spray-Head in mineral spirits, possibly increasing pressure (via heat) in the can. Has happened most frequently with cans that have been warming in the sun. When the Orifice Insert blows, who knows where it goes, game over.
Edited, to use proper names for parts of a rattle can...sadly there's little agreement on what the parts are called.
Happy new year to all!
PS: I have never gotten the "force air back into the can to clear the dip tube/update pipe" trick to work. The internet recommends using a car tire valve stem to blast some air back into the can, via your compressor. The car tire valve stem makes a decent seal around the can's bare stem when the Nozzle/Actuator/Trigger/Push-Button/Spray-Head has been removed (in the cases where the stem is part of the can). But. Hasn't worked for me yet. I read that a rattle can will have 30-50 PSI in it, so I haven't tried more pressure than that.
PPS: I have had several Nozzle/Actuator/Trigger/Push-Button/Spray-Heads spit their tiny Orifice Inserts out. What I'm calling the "Orifice Insert" is that tiny, usually red, piece of plastic in the (usually white) Nozzle/Actuator/Trigger/Push-Button/Spray-Head. The Orfice Insert is the part that has the very tiny tiny hole in it. Don't know what's causing this ejection, possibly soaking the Nozzle/Actuator/Trigger/Push-Button/Spray-Head in mineral spirits, possibly increasing pressure (via heat) in the can. Has happened most frequently with cans that have been warming in the sun. When the Orifice Insert blows, who knows where it goes, game over.
Edited, to use proper names for parts of a rattle can...sadly there's little agreement on what the parts are called.
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Perhaps it will work better than the idea of taking some 4" pvc pipe about 10" long ... put on a end cap with a 1/4 hole drilled through .... add a longer 1/4-20 bolt & nut and then spin with your paint can inside with a drill.
I used mine once.
I used mine once.
Bolster
Well-known member
i tried similar. decided it didn't really work, since the ball just found a low point in the can and stopped agitating
i bought the sawzall version. was going to make my own like the above, but decided to save myself the time and have a more convenient use item (quick strap vs hose clamp)
WordMan
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Not for 36 dollars
Years ago, I bought two; one for me and one for my dad. I can't say how many cans I would have tossed without the thing.
finn
Well-known member
My local ACE sells some brand of spray bombs from some company that I had never heard of (edit: it’s ******** by MTN) that are made in Spain.
I only sprayed out a couple of cans and they seemed pretty good.
The Behr spray bombs seem to work well. HD carries Behr. It may actually be a captive brand now. Behr is made in Canada.
I only sprayed out a couple of cans and they seemed pretty good.
The Behr spray bombs seem to work well. HD carries Behr. It may actually be a captive brand now. Behr is made in Canada.
I lost 4 cans to clogging. shaking by hand wasn't doing it. the spin-in-a-can homemade method didn't help.Not for 36 dollars
at $7 a can, I was 1 can away from the cost of the shaker. It now sits in the cordless sawzall on a hook next to the paint rack
pretty sure they were closer to $20 years back. Could I make my own? yes, planned to with an old snowboard binding ratchet, old blade etc. but i REALLY didn't need another side project
WordMan
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Once the goop is in the tube, you're a bit SOL.
The secret is to shake the ever-loving **** out of them before you try to spray. I use the Sawzall attachment, and have little to no trouble.
Black300zx
Well-known member
I know this thread is about Rustoleum, but it seems like there is general interest here in "good" rattle can paint.
I bit the bullet and spent $30 on a can of Eastwood's 2k urethane gloss black in their "Aerospray" rattlecan to paint my valvecovers. The temps and fluids they get exposed to make normal rattlecans a poor choice. The intricate baffling inside them make media blasting and powdercoating risky. It has a puncturable vessel inside that contains activator and you have a 48hr work window once punctured.
I love this stuff. Sprays wonderfully. Hard to the touch in 30min. Less odor than normal rattlecans. Great gloss. Eastwood sells them through Amazon and they've arrived on my door with free shipping within 2-3 days despite the Amazon item page showing 1wk+ delivery times. Definitely will use it again for anything that I want to look nice unless I can find a cheaper source for a similar product
I bit the bullet and spent $30 on a can of Eastwood's 2k urethane gloss black in their "Aerospray" rattlecan to paint my valvecovers. The temps and fluids they get exposed to make normal rattlecans a poor choice. The intricate baffling inside them make media blasting and powdercoating risky. It has a puncturable vessel inside that contains activator and you have a 48hr work window once punctured.
I love this stuff. Sprays wonderfully. Hard to the touch in 30min. Less odor than normal rattlecans. Great gloss. Eastwood sells them through Amazon and they've arrived on my door with free shipping within 2-3 days despite the Amazon item page showing 1wk+ delivery times. Definitely will use it again for anything that I want to look nice unless I can find a cheaper source for a similar product
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I used Spraymax 2x urethane to paint parts for my 1966 BSA 650 Spitfire Mk11 motorcycle with great success. As with all these 2x spray cans proper mixing is of the upmost importance so I made a setup similar to what BOLSTER did and shook the cans for a couple of minutes each previous to starting the job then shook each can 3 minutes once I punctured the hardener compartment for each can as I needed it. The results were excellent, smooth high gloss finish as hard as a rock. I painted the parts hanging from a chain strung between 2 trees and applied 2-3 coats then hung them in my garage for a couple of days before handling them.
At the time I found "House of 1000 Kolors" to have the best prices for Spraymax products, they often have products on sale as well.
SprayMax
From the revolutionary idea by the founding father to one of the leading spray paint can manufacturers today.
houseof1000kolors.com
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Danno1
Well-known member
Black300zx
Well-known member
I wore a regular 3m respirator because I didn't know what to expect, but I found the fumes to be far less harsh than regular krylon or rustoleum cans. PPE is always a good idea, but I don't think I'd loose sleep over not using a respirator with this stuff if I was outside