Rustoleum spray cans - absolute garbage

[ATC]

I've never had a problem with Rustoleum.

I've never had an issue with their paint. I have had the same experience as the OP with their primer a time or two.

Rustoleum is fantastic spray paint for the price. I use it on all my metal projects, from vehicle undercarriages (suspension, axles, frame, hitches), to bumpers I build, headache racks, modifications to my skid steer attachments or new ones I build, etc....
Sand it, clean it, apply 2-3 thick coats, and it's good for a decade.

 

[jrsavoie]

The local hardware store used to throw the cans on the paint shaker when you bought them.
At least they were shook good when you took them home

 

[Old Man Roger]

The local hardware store used to throw the cans on the paint shaker when you bought them.
At least they were shook good when you took them home

I've asked if they could do spray cans at the local big box stores, but they wont. That's when I made my sawzall shaker.

 

[Yankeefarmer]

I don’t understand why so many here are reporting problems. Years ago, when Rustoleum introduced the new spray nozzles that you couldn’t clear by inverting the can, I swore I’d only buy Krylon. Then I needed to match some older paint, so I gave Rustoleum another chance. My routine consists of shaking the can for 1 to 2 minutes after the ball rattles when I take it off the shelf. I use a combination of up and down and “swirling” the ball around the bottom of the can. This has worked for me even at temperatures in the mid to upper 50’s when the shop is still warming after an overnight low above 45. After spraying, I remove the nozzle and flush it with acetone using a wash bottle with a tip that fits just inside the nozzle. I‘ve only had one nozzle clog on me after using this technique, and I have about a half dozen nozzles as spares after exhausting the paint in the cans they came on.

 

[Old Man Roger]

I don’t understand why so many here are reporting problems. Years ago, when Rustoleum introduced the new spray nozzles that you couldn’t clear by inverting the can, I swore I’d only buy Krylon. Then I needed to match some older paint, so I gave Rustoleum another chance. My routine consists of shaking the can for 1 to 2 minutes after the ball rattles when I take it off the shelf. I use a combination of up and down and “swirling” the ball around the bottom of the can. This has worked for me even at temperatures in the mid to upper 50’s when the shop is still warming after an overnight low above 45. After spraying, I remove the nozzle and flush it with acetone using a wash bottle with a tip that fits just inside the nozzle. I‘ve only had one nozzle clog on me after using this technique, and I have about a half dozen nozzles as spares after exhausting the paint in the cans they came on.

Before I started heating the cans in the sun and shaking them with a sawzall, it wasn't the nozzle that was clogging. It was the can itself, or the little spout that goes into the cap.

 

[cpttuna]

These guys got it, and the heat creates a little more pressure in the can. The extra pressure makes the can spray better.

Imagine having ten cans. I have a battery operated sawzall set up for shaking, takes seconds to put a can in.

the object is to get the job done. you can always ask a neighbor to shake the can. I do it my way, you do it yours.

 

[smackey05]

Some place on here I saw a sawzall used to shake those cans.

 

[AndyL]

The heat part is the biggest factor in my world.

I put the cans I intend to use in the big popcorn bowl in the sink, and run hot water slowly. Let the cans "soak" at least 10 min before shaking/ using. Make sure you sharpie the bottom of the can with contents - the plastic wrap and paper wraps don't usually survive.

 

[Zeke]

I don’t understand why so many here are reporting problems. Years ago, when Rustoleum introduced the new spray nozzles that you couldn’t clear by inverting the can, I swore I’d only buy Krylon. Then I needed to match some older paint, so I gave Rustoleum another chance. My routine consists of shaking the can for 1 to 2 minutes after the ball rattles when I take it off the shelf. I use a combination of up and down and “swirling” the ball around the bottom of the can. This has worked for me even at temperatures in the mid to upper 50’s when the shop is still warming after an overnight low above 45. After spraying, I remove the nozzle and flush it with acetone using a wash bottle with a tip that fits just inside the nozzle. I‘ve only had one nozzle clog on me after using this technique, and I have about a half dozen nozzles as spares after exhausting the paint in the cans they came on.

I think Rustoleum went through a bad period maybe 5 years ago. I did as you do but I had a significant number of cans give me problems. I too save every nozzle in a jar of acetone. Now I don't have problems.

Came in handy yesterday as a can arrived via UPS with no nozzle. The one I found that fit didn't work perfectly but I was able to continue with the job. Amazon says no returns so how does that work?

 

[mikegt4]

I agree that Rustoleum went through a bad period when they changed to a different (probably cheaper) design for their valving. I swore them off after throwing way too many half empty cans into the trash. It wasn't the nozzle but the valve inside of the can that clogged. I still like their paint products and still use it out of a qt. can and spray it with my own gun. For spray cans I went to ACE Hardware "premium" which I have had excellent luck with.

 

[American Locomotive]

I think Rustoleum went through a bad period maybe 5 years ago. I did as you do but I had a significant number of cans give me problems. I too save every nozzle in a jar of acetone. Now I don't have problems.

Came in handy yesterday as a can arrived via UPS with no nozzle. The one I found that fit didn't work perfectly but I was able to continue with the job. Amazon says no returns so how does that work?

I even have Rustoleum cans that seem to clog internally. The gloss black is definitely the worst. Nothing more infuriating than an almost full can you need to chuck in the trash because it won't spray no matter which nozzle you put on it.

 

[Old Man Roger]

I even have Rustoleum cans that seem to clog internally. The gloss black is definitely the worst. Nothing more infuriating than an almost full can you need to chuck in the trash because it won't spray no matter which nozzle you put on it.

I’ve saved those by soaking them upside down in mineral spirits, then leaving them in the sun, and excessive shaking.lol

 

[ZRX61]

They're an order of magnitude better than the cans used by Krylon...

 

[Sumboodie]

These guys got it, and the heat creates a little more pressure in the can. The extra pressure makes the can spray better.

Imagine having ten cans. I have a battery operated sawzall set up for shaking, takes seconds to put a can in.

If I'm painting that would take 10 cans, I'm not using rattle cans.

 

[Old Man Roger]

If I'm painting that would take 10 cans, I'm not using rattle cans.

You mentioned that already.

 

[Black300zx]

Would save $$. $8 a can for rattle spray or a $40 sprayer and $20 for a quart of decent paint.

Since this thread is somewhat off-topic already, I don't feel bad asking....

I, too, hate how I'm rarely every satisfied with the durability of spraybombs as compared to 2k paints, but I've been a bit lost on finding reasonably 2k products for a home jobber. I'm not talking about painting a car here, just bracketry, outdoor metal items, maybe some small fiberglass projects. Projects where the amount of effort I spend prepping for paint is large enough that I DO NOT want to have to touch it up or prep for a respray a few months down the road. My time is worth enough that I want to start spending more money on a better product to produce a durable result. A touch-up type gun would be adequate for most of what I want to do.

Do you have a reasonably priced 2k product that you like which can be sourced fairly easily?

 

[Old Man Roger]

I've seen some vidoes of a guy using the gallon Rustoleum with a hardener and a spray gun. Came out pretty nice.

 

[Sumboodie]

You mentioned that already.

If you say so.

 

[Old Man Roger]

If I'm needing 10 cans to paint something, I'm using a spray gun!

If I'm painting that would take 10 cans, I'm not using rattle cans.

 

[Seattle_Speed_Shop]

I'd imagine nearly everyone on this forum has an air hose and compressor. I mean hell most of you all have shops with damn near acreage inside, lifts, 6 figures worth of tools, etc.

I've been building cars professionally for 15 years....in a driveway and with a 2 car garage. I did not have a compressor until about a year and a half ago when I moved into my current place.

 

[p00p]

Since this thread is somewhat off-topic already, I don't feel bad asking....

I, too, hate how I'm rarely every satisfied with the durability of spraybombs as compared to 2k paints, but I've been a bit lost on finding reasonably 2k products for a home jobber. I'm not talking about painting a car here, just bracketry, outdoor metal items, maybe some small fiberglass projects. Projects where the amount of effort I spend prepping for paint is large enough that I DO NOT want to have to touch it up or prep for a respray a few months down the road. My time is worth enough that I want to start spending more money on a better product to produce a durable result. A touch-up type gun would be adequate for most of what I want to do.

Do you have a reasonably priced 2k product that you like which can be sourced fairly easily?

Depending the object, & it's intended purpose (push mower [parts], patio chair/table, metal shed) I've lowered my standards for the finish. By doing so, it saves me the time & typically gives me a 15 footer finish. I spray/rub clean the surface of grease/dirt flake rust, let it dry, pick out the rattle can primer & paint combo of choice, & apply it in it's recommended(ish) stages. The prime thing to note that has helped with keeping things looking fairly decent over the years is trying to pick a common paint type & color that is locally readily available.
When things fade, show signs of wear, or I want to refresh something with its' gloss color back, I'll pop over to the local store for a rattle can of that paint type & color for that touch up.
Now, if it's huge metal shed, I'll do a quick tape of an area to limit the spray area & to *blend* the new with the old using a seam line if I can.

 

[Black300zx]

Depending the object, & it's intended purpose (push mower [parts], patio chair/table, metal shed) I've lowered my standards for the finish. By doing so, it saves me the time & typically gives me a 15 footer finish. I spray/rub clean the surface of grease/dirt flake rust, let it dry, pick out the rattle can primer & paint combo of choice, & apply it in it's recommended(ish) stages. The prime thing to note that has helped with keeping things looking fairly decent over the years is trying to pick a common paint type & color that is locally readily available.
When things fade, show signs of wear, or I want to refresh something with its' gloss color back, I'll pop over to the local store for a rattle can of that paint type & color for that touch up.
Now, if it's huge metal shed, I'll do a quick tape of an area to limit the spray area & to *blend* the new with the old using a seam line if I can.

I'd never waste time making my push mower look pretty Patio Chairs/tables I'm OK with rattlecans. What I had in mind when I posted was car parts. Engine brackets, valve covers, suspension parts, etc. Parts that will likely see fuel, oil, dirt, rocks. Parts that I'd be periodically cleaning to keep them clean. In my experience rattlecan paint is just generally soft and less durable. Bump a bracket with a wrench while working on the car and the part that I spent time prepping/painting has a nice scrape in it

Another application that I had in mind was painting cosmetic parts for my boat, where I want a high-quality finish that will stand up to the elements. I had an upcoming project to do some repair and refreshing on my dashboard, including some fiberglass work. No way I was going to just rattle-can that. If anyone is interested, I ended up using a 1-part roll/brush-on urethane paint from interlux and I'm thrilled with the results.

Interlux Brightside
It's pricey at about $50/quart, but it flow out incredibly smooth, has a great gloss, and should be plenty durable given that it's intended for marine applications. I'm curious if anyone has experience with a similar non-marine grade product that might be less pricey.

 

[finn]

I'd never waste time making my push mower look pretty Patio Chairs/tables I'm OK with rattlecans. What I had in mind when I posted was car parts. Engine brackets, valve covers, suspension parts, etc. Parts that will likely see fuel, oil, dirt, rocks. Parts that I'd be periodically cleaning to keep them clean. In my experience rattlecan paint is just generally soft and less durable. Bump a bracket with a wrench while working on the car and the part that I spent time prepping/painting has a nice scrape in it

Another application that I had in mind was painting cosmetic parts for my boat, where I want a high-quality finish that will stand up to the elements. I had an upcoming project to do some repair and refreshing on my dashboard, including some fiberglass work. No way I was going to just rattle-can that. If anyone is interested, I ended up using a 1-part roll/brush-on urethane paint from interlux and I'm thrilled with the results.

Interlux Brightside
It's pricey at about $50/quart, but it flow out incredibly smooth, has a great gloss, and should be plenty durable given that it's intended for marine applications. I'm curious if anyone has experience with a similar non-marine grade product that might be less pricey.

I have been buying paint from Summit most recently. Pretty good selection of single stage as well as base/clear, reducer, and hardener.

Plus, their delivery is fast, and free if you reach the threshold. Being an automotive grade paint, it’s pretty durable.

If you limit yourself to an airbrush or touchup gun, cleanup isn’t that bad.

 

[Black300zx]

I have been buying paint from Summit most recently. Pretty good selection of single stage as well as base/clear, reducer, and hardener.

Plus, their delivery is fast, and free if you reach the threshold. Being an automotive grade paint, it’s pretty durable.

If you limit yourself to an airbrush or touchup gun, cleanup isn’t that bad.

Good idea, I never thought to look at Summit

 

[Crowbarman55]

I'd never waste time making my push mower look pretty Patio Chairs/tables I'm OK with rattlecans. What I had in mind when I posted was car parts. Engine brackets, valve covers, suspension parts, etc. Parts that will likely see fuel, oil, dirt, rocks. Parts that I'd be periodically cleaning to keep them clean. In my experience rattlecan paint is just generally soft and less durable. Bump a bracket with a wrench while working on the car and the part that I spent time prepping/painting has a nice scrape in it

Another application that I had in mind was painting cosmetic parts for my boat, where I want a high-quality finish that will stand up to the elements. I had an upcoming project to do some repair and refreshing on my dashboard, including some fiberglass work. No way I was going to just rattle-can that. If anyone is interested, I ended up using a 1-part roll/brush-on urethane paint from interlux and I'm thrilled with the results.

Interlux Brightside
It's pricey at about $50/quart, but it flow out incredibly smooth, has a great gloss, and should be plenty durable given that it's intended for marine applications. I'm curious if anyone has experience with a similar non-marine grade product that might be less pricey.

That's brushed on?
Looks great
Todd

 

[Black300zx]

That's brushed on?
Looks great
Todd

Rolled on with a foam roller and then lightly brushed to help the stipple flow out. The technique is called "rolling and tipping" in the marine world. This paint is made for this technique and flows out almost as smooth as if it was sprayed if you get the technique and amount of thinner right.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Rolled on with a foam roller and then lightly brushed to help the stipple flow out. The technique is called "rolling and tipping" in the marine world. This paint is made for this technique and flows out almost as smooth as if it was sprayed if you get the technique and amount of thinner right.

Had a friend paint his whole boat like that. The stuff is pretty amazing.

 

[exmaxima1]

OP here. I made a spray paint can mixer like this:

I don't have the can I described in the original post, so I can't say for sure that inadequate mixing was the issue (even though I shook the can longer than instructions prescribe), but I shook up a can using this mixer and it sprayed beautifully. Highly recommend mixing via power tool. No more jacking off rattle cans for me.

I had seen that video and found that those 1 qt fuel cans fit perfectly. The tapered top gives much more rigidity than a plain can. I cut the bottom off with a can opener, made a cone-shaped wood slug on the sander, and assembled with a long 5/16" carriage bolt. Works well.

 

[qwerty18]

I even have Rustoleum cans that seem to clog internally. The gloss black is definitely the worst. Nothing more infuriating than an almost full can you need to chuck in the trash because it won't spray no matter which nozzle you put on it.

Same. Rustoleum has given me troubles for years. No other brand has. Not user error as many assuming people here try and imply.

I call up Rustoleum and get my money back (gotta have a receipt)

So keep your receipts for all rustoleum spray cans you buy and WHEN, not IF, it screws up, call and complain.

 

[Sumboodie]

I've been building cars professionally for 15 years....in a driveway and with a 2 car garage. I did not have a compressor until about a year and a half ago when I moved into my current place.

How did you "professionally" paint cars?

 

[ScottsGT]

Rustoleum is dead to me. They bought out the Testors model paint line years ago just to kill it off. I’m now having to buy imported model paints at $8 per ounce. Although I have switched over to lacquer which airbrushed much better than the old enamels or acrylics.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Rustoleum is dead to me. They bought out the Testors model paint line years ago just to kill it off. I’m now having to buy imported model paints at $8 per ounce. Although I have switched over to lacquer which airbrushed much better than the old enamels or acrylics.

I think model paint and finger nail polish are the most expensive things on the planet..lol 1 dollar for .44 of an ounce for fingernail polish. What would that be per gallon?

 

[mrvm]

the object is to get the job done. you can always ask a neighbor to shake the can

This neighbor can always shake my cans….

 

[ScottsGT]

This neighbor can always shake my cans….

Would be more fun to shake her cans.

 

[PassnThru]

This neighbor can always shake my cans….

We have rules here - you can bang your neighbors wife or ask her to shake your cans only upon direct provocation from said neighbor.
Without rules we have anarchy. Yes - anarchy is fun - but it tends to get out of hand - no pun intended.

 

[Seattle_Speed_Shop]

How did you "professionally" paint cars?

Send them out. Truth be told, 95% of what I build is "patina builds". So no need for a paint booth or anything related. Besides, I have friends who are much better painters than I, and I would rather support their business. When I have needed to paint stuff like firewalls, or frames, I borrow a paint "system".

 

[Sumboodie]

I think model paint and finger nail polish are the most expensive things on the planet..lol 1 dollar for .44 of an ounce for fingernail polish. What would that be per gallon?

~$300 a gallon, which if it was automotive paint, would be pretty cheap.

 

[Wiz02]

Had a can of Rustoleum with the "fancy" multi directional spray nozzle, that I successfully used to spray a garbage disposal ring to match the sink. I cleaned the nozzle with lacquer thinner and stored the can in a basement cabinet for a couple of years. I needed the same color for another job the other day, ran the can under warm water, and shook it for a couple of minutes, until it freely rattled, swirling the ball around as well.

First couple of passes, can sprayed OK for what I was painting, but dribbled a little down the side of the can. Stopped, shook the can some more, started another pass and the can leaked all over my hand instead of spraying the paint. I'm talking enough paint to cover my entire hand and drip down my forearm. Tossed the can, but I can't really complain even though the can was almost full.

Do you agree? Or should an old spray can be expected to work after it was used, cleaned and stored for a long time?

 

[Glemon]

I set the cans upside down in the sun at least an hour before shaking.

Same here, if not in the sun somewhere warm, and as soon as I start thinking about painting something if I already have the paint in the "cabinet of many colors" I pull it out and turn it over. Can't hurt, might help.

 

[nbpt100]

I only have issues with the Rusoleum Rusty Metal primer. It will clog 50% of the time. I soak the nozzles in terpentine to clean them. Sometimes it works. I never buy the larger can. Because I often end up throwing it out half used. It is a great primer for rusty metal. I keep using it because I do not know of one that works better. But the delivery system is crummy. Since it has the spray from any angle can, you can not clean out the nozzle when you are done. That is a big compromise.

Warm it up and shake like crazy. Like a lot more than you think.