Rusty lathe woes

[NBN]

I bought a lathe last summer and I am just getting around to wiring it and setting it up. It's been on the back wall and no attention has been paid to it. Today I realize that there is substantial rust forming on the head, the bed and the tool rest. The lathe is in a clean, enclosed atmosphere but with a few days of big temperature swings a few months back, moisture must have settled on the machine.

What is the best coarse of action in cleaning up the affected areas and what preventative measures can be used to keep from this happening again?

 

[nadogail]

I would rub the rust with very fine steel wool soaked in oil.

 

[Firebrick43]

Yea 0000 Steel wool with oil. Or a grey scotchbrite pad(my preference). Make sure you wipe up the mess before moving the carriage over it

 

[VocaTexas]

If there is rust on the ways, spray them with a bit of WD-40 and let it soak a few minutes. Then use a razor blade to carefully lift the rust off. You can also use the finest grade of Scotchbite pad if some of it is a bit more stubborn. Any parts that you can easily remove can be soaked in Evaporust. Leave them in about 24 hours and they will probably look brand new when they come out.

All my machines have sweated badly a few time this winter. It is the worst when we have had several really warm days, and then it turns cold again. You can actually watch the water drip off, like the machine was sitting outside in a heavy mist. I try to keep my ways well oiled and keep a film of either oil or WD-40 on the other exposed metal. I've had to do the oil and razor treatment to my milling machine vises three or four times this winter.

Where abouts in SE Texas are you located? I'm in McCulloch County.

 

[walta]

Unless you are going to heat and cool the building this will be an unwinnable battle.

If this location is short term storage a thick layer of grease is not a bad option.

If this project will need to survive storage in this location for some time Google “Cosmoline coating”



Walta

 

[nadogail]

I like Fluid Film, it is lanolin based.

 

[Shiftless]

I like Fluid Film, it is lanolin based.

Me too.
Not everybody likes the sheep smell. To me, it’s not bad.

 

[CraigStu]

WD40 is fine for the removal process but don't leave it as a coating because it dries out. Almost any other penetrating oil in a spray is good for the hard to get to areas. But the large areas that you can get to, I like to rub down with chain saw chain oil. It has a stickyness that helps it stay where you put it.

 

[gregs]

Is your building insulated? The worst time is the winter/spring with the big temperature swings. If it is insulated, try your best not to open any big doors in the mornings or days of known temp/humidity swings. Keep a couple of box fans running 24/7/365 on low to keep the air moving, it helps a lot. And keep the machined surfaces coated with some type of lube being careful that its not to thick as it can build up under the carriage and cause issues.

 

[NBN]

Is your building insulated? The worst time is the winter/spring with the big temperature swings. If it is insulated, try your best not to open any big doors in the mornings or days of known temp/humidity swings. Keep a couple of box fans running 24/7/365 on low to keep the air moving, it helps a lot. And keep the machined surfaces coated with some type of lube being careful that its not to thick as it can build up under the carriage and cause issues.

The building is insulated. The biggest issue I had was that there was no power in the building, but now that things are being wired up, I can move forward. Thanks for the air movement tip.

 

[RVAGuy]

I wipe down my ways with LPS 3 between uses. Clean it off with WD40 and put some way oil on it and I am ready to use. Its a heavy waxy film that lasts outdoors as I also use it to keep hydraulic rams and hydraulic fittings from rusting on farm equipment left outside year around. I buy from Grainger. Gallons or spray cans. I am going to try the new Blaster Surface Shield in a comparison with Fluid Film and LPS 3 at some point.

 

[NBN]

I've got Fluid film ordered and will be starting the cleanup process next week.

 

[Paco Pena]

I like a wipe down with ATF on machinery in unheated spaces.

Paco

 

[RVAGuy]

Breakfree CLP is good for something you use regularly but not for long term where stuff "sweats". I use Breakfree on my drill press column and tabletop.

 

[dzahm]

not sure what its called but I have a hard rubber (looks like a sanding block) pad- impregnated with abrasives just for this type of thing (got it at a woodworking store maybe 10 yrs ago) It works quite well-IIRC there were a couple different "grits" available- What I have used to prevent return was "rust prevention magic"- Its kinda like a wax sort of material and on car stuff you warmed the part up and then rubbed the rust magic on it and it kinda melted in (did a master cylinder about 10 yrs ago and still looks like its fresh out of the box) I think this came from eastwood maybe

 

[Sumboodie]

I've got Fluid film ordered and will be starting the cleanup process next week.

Ordered?

Schucks, Napa, etc should have it.

 

[NBN]

Ordered?

Schucks, Napa, etc should have it.

Crazy as it sounds, no shucks here and no one else around stocks it.

 

[FredWanaker]

After cleaning it, cover it with some thing like a heavy mil plastic tarp that extends to the floor like a tent and put a dehumidfier in it like they use on sailboats. Do not cover it unless you have a dehumidifier in it because it will create rain in it.

 

[matt_i]

A HSS toolbit blank does pretty well to push away surface rust, good idea to dub any corners so you don't get scratching.

I would personally stay away from any kind of abrasive as you're asking for big problems if it gets under the wipers.

I have a 60W incandescent lightbulb in the headstock undercabinet of my Monarch 10EE, it keeps the lathe slightly warm to assist evading condensation. Biggest two things I practice are to keep exterior doors closed as much as possible to keep a stable humidity environment and keep ceiling fans on low 24x7 to keep air stirring.

 

[Renegade1LI]

I keep my metal working tools well oiled and i cover them with out door furniture covers. Off the shelf sizes work well and i have never had any rust. The covers also keep out dust and debris so it’s a win win. My woodworking equipment i clear coat the polished or exposed metal and no more rust or maintenance, as the clear coat wears just touch up.

 

[yeldogt]

Is this for wood or metal work?

If it's wood you want to use the proper products -- get the stuff for table saw tops. I have various products for my metal tools that I use for woodworking. Need to make sure no silicone or other finish killers

If metal work ... almost anything will work. You may find that some of the anti rust products for tools is best as they have less dirt attraction. I coat my gardening tools ... stuff like that.

 

[tool_scrounge]

Razor blade + oil or lubricant works well. Flip the blade over often. Replace the blade occasionally too. I find home made "Ed's red" gun cleaner with lanolin works very well for this. A friend gave me some and it is works great for cleaning and shorter term preserving rusty stuff.

Here is a link to the Eds Red pdf.
https://www.vkhgc.ca/documents/Ed gun cleaner.pdf

 

[My Old Tools]

Why has no one recommended way oil. That's what it's for. It sticks to the surface and doesn't dry out. I'm assuming we're talking metal lathe here. For a wood lathe, Johnson's Paste Wax, yellow can.

 

[isb cornbinder]

I bought a lathe last summer and I am just getting around to wiring it and setting it up. It's been on the back wall and no attention has been paid to it. Today I realize that there is substantial rust forming on the head, the bed and the tool rest. The lathe is in a clean, enclosed atmosphere but with a few days of big temperature swings a few months back, moisture must have settled on the machine.

What is the best coarse of action in cleaning up the affected areas and what preventative measures can be used to keep from this happening again?

WD40 is so much more than the original product. WD make a very good spray-on metal surface protection. Try it, it works really well. Others have offered the steel wool and a petroleum based product. This may be your best option.

 

[NBN]

Why has no one recommended way oil. That's what it's for. It sticks to the surface and doesn't dry out. I'm assuming we're talking metal lathe here. For a wood lathe, Johnson's Paste Wax, yellow can.

Yep, metal lathe.

 

[23ford]

Go Joe hand cleaner take a rag and rub it in to get the rust off wipe off

 

[rburke65]

Try vinegar

 

[toglhot]

I cover my machinery with cotton sheets, it soaks up any moisture. I also use an oil/water mix coolant, easy on the water, and the oil seems to stay behind. When cleaning I use kero and hand towel. Don't have a problem with rust anymore.

 

[Sumboodie]

Why has no one recommended way oil. That's what it's for.

Been mentioned several times.

 

[My Old Tools]

Been mentioned several times.

Just read the whole thread and no mention

 

[AR1911]

I have been accumulating and trading machines for 20 years. I now have some nice, restored tools sitting in my unheated metal shop building. Sometimes I don't get out there for several weeks. Nothing makes me more upset than seeing fresh rust on a machined surface that I have spent hours renewing. I fixed that about 10 years ago.
1 - I buy raw lanolin by the pound, about $16. Heat it and mix with cheap hydraulic oil 50-50 or so. It absolutely prevents rust on anything it is applied to. I pound last years.
2 - Fans. I keep a ceiling fan on all the time. Air circulation prevents condensation. No covers on any of my tools for this reason.

These two things alone stopped my machines rusting. Since then I have added:

3 - Dehumidifier. I did this more as a water source than anything else, depositing the water in a 275-gallon tote tank. It took about a month to get ~225 gallons from my 1000-sf shop. Since then it is Much more comfortable to work in, and those small items that I never coated with lanolin don't rust anymore. I also have a reliable source of distilled water.

 

[Plastikosmd]

Agree w tools

Any oil is likely to work in respect to rust but Way oil is a game changer when it comes to the ways and operation.

Silky smooth glide with tackiness to stay put

Quick discussion here for substitutes if you choose.

Synthetic motor oil for way lube?

Searching for advice on proper way lube, I find a number of oils mentioned but can't find any of them availalble in my country town (in Australia) in stock anywhere. Would a low-viscosity modern fully synthetic engine oil be suitable? If not, why not - just curious. What makes a way oil...

www.practicalmachinist.com

 

[rsanter]

Is the rust a rust haze or can you feel it?
With a haze you can use oil and steel,wool or even a coarse towel.

If you can feel the rust then you can soak paper towels in evaporust and then use a razor blade. Then to,to the oil and steel wool

 

[AR1911]

Don't use motor oil. It is designed to attract and emulsify oil. In a car engine it gets hot enough to burn it off. Your lathe doesn't get hot enough, so it just continues to absorb moisture from the air, and you get rust.

 

[NBN]

As a follow up, I found Fluid Film locally and bought a can. This product is just shy of amazing. I applied a liberal amount to the rusty areas and let it sit for 30 minutes before I started scraping with a razor blade. The rust came off easily and the excessive residue was wiped up. I followed that with a wipedown of more fluid film.