Rusty Tools

[BigMike75]

I live in Texas, where humidity can get crazy! I’m looking for a solution to keep my mechanic hand tools from spot rusting. They are stored in an enclosed shop, in a toolbox, with a tarp over it when not being used, and coated with WD-40; yet I’m still getting speckle rust spots on them.

What’s a good product to keep them from rusting?

I was thinking of experimenting with Amsoil’s HD Metal Protectant or even trying Shellac.

Any suggestions?

 

[Gmonkee]

Desiccant packs in the drawers and oiling the lesser used stuff.

A rag with grease on it does the trick for me during the rainy season.

My stored tools suffer the worst.

 

[cjarvis]

I use ATF or MMO on mine, and I have added THESE to the drawers with the tools most susceptible to rusting. I've also used Birchwood Casey's "Barricade" with good results.

Is the tarp you're using poly or canvas? It may be that a poly tarp won't "breathe" and let moisture out.

 

[BigMike75]

The tarps are large cloth moving blankets, draped over the boxes. That’s a good question though! They are kinda thick. I didn’t think about the fact that they might be holding moister in. I used them because they had some extra padding built in.

 

[Alexander]

I put a camphor block in each drawer of my toolbox. It's about as low maintenance as you can get, and seems to do a decent job for me.

 

[reptilezs]

crc sp 400

 

[rijndael]

Mine get a periodic wipe down with CTC Multi-Purpose Marine Lubricant
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000M8Q02M/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[JimNC]

Wd40 displaced water, but is a poor rust inhibitor.

 

[Tom White]

Others have made good suggestions to prevent rust. I just went through a rust removal experiment on some old pliers. All I did was to soak them in vinegar for a few hours, then go over them with small squares of sandpaper (fine grit).

The vinegar really got them ready and the sandpaper finished them off well. Might take an overnight soaking if they are rusted really bad, but I'm really happy with the results. Just be sure to wash the tools off and apply a bit of oil or similar afterwards.

Almost forgot. If the tools have a rubber or plastic cover on the handles, you might want to keep the handles out of the vinegar. I just stood mine up in a clear plastic cup with the handles up when I did this.

 

[seber]

Lately I've been using a light coat of Kroil. I haven't been doing it long enough to be sure, but it does a really nice job of coverage with just a single drop.

 

[ReggieR]

Mineral spirits

 

[WWheeler]

I keep a rag hanging on the side of each box to give every tool a quick wipe down before putting away. Every once in a blue moon I give the rag a spritz of Boeshield T-9. Same can has lasted me years.

If the tool was wet or covered in oil/grease/whatever else I use an air gun to blow them off and a different rag or rags to dry it off / clean it up first, then it gets wiped with the T-9 rag before getting put away.

Lived right on the oceanfront in VA and NC for decades, where humidity and saltwater abound. Never have I seen a bit of rust on any of my tools.

 

[Blt2Lst]

I put a camphor block in each drawer of my toolbox. It's about as low maintenance as you can get, and seems to do a decent job for me.

I was going to say moth balls but camphor blocks are the same thing. They do have to be replaced periodically as they evaporate.

 

[cjarvis]

Wd40 displaced water, but is a poor rust inhibitor.

Not to mention that it gums up over time.

 

[jsmeece]

I use Fluid Film and it is about $10 a can, works well. I get it from Rural King, a farm supply store located in the Mid-west, but Amazon has it too, link below. Highly talked about here on GJ, surprised someone has not mentioned it in this thread yet.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PWZ0XNM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[rick carpenter]

I've taken to automatically shooting my drill bits with clear lacquer. It'll wear off when you use them. I have a pair of Channellock needlenose pliers that developed some rust spots, after I wirebushed them I shot them with lacquer too.

 

[yhprum]

Camphor blocks are better than moth balls; they smell like Vicks vapo. WHen they evaporate, they leave light oil residue behind.That's what stops the rust

 

[Tallpilot]

I’m in Florida so I am in the same boat. I don’t cover my box. I do rub a little Kroil or T-9 (whichever can is closer) on the non chrome tools before I put them away. Next house I am just going to run AC to the garage. So far, so good though.

 

[kythri]

I put a camphor block in each drawer of my toolbox. It's about as low maintenance as you can get, and seems to do a decent job for me.

Camphor blocks took care of most, if not all, of my rust issues in my shop here in Oregon.

 

[Weird Tolkienish Figure]

If you have a pool, keep them the f$*% away from the chlorine. Even when sealed the stuff leaches out and eats metal alive, especially the trichlor tabs. Ask me how I know.

 

[Stuart in MN]

A vapor phase corrosion inhibitor is sort of the modern version of camphor blocks. There are a number of companies that sell them, here's one that has a good reputation. http://www.bull-frog.com

 

[lincwelder225]

If you have a pool, keep them the f$*% away from the chlorine. Even when sealed the stuff leaches out and eats metal alive, especially the trichlor tabs. Ask me how I know.

How do you know?

 

[Tonyuk]

A good wipe with either engine oil, atf or acf-50 works for me.

 

[6PTsocket]

I keep a rag hanging on the side of each box to give every tool a quick wipe down before putting away. Every once in a blue moon I give the rag a spritz of Boeshield T-9. Same can has lasted me years.

If the tool was wet or covered in oil/grease/whatever else I use an air gun to blow them off and a different rag or rags to dry it off / clean it up first, then it gets wiped with the T-9 rag before getting put away.

Lived right on the oceanfront in VA and NC for decades, where humidity and saltwater abound. Never have I seen a bit of rust on any of my tools.

I use T9. It is a wax in a solvent carrier that evaporates. I would think that there would be nothing left on the rag but the wax. I guess you can transfer some dry wax. I never tried that. I have always used it from the can and left it all on for storage or wiped off the excess on tools I am using. It is great in cast iron tables of drill presses, saws, jointers, etc.

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[BDT/NWMN]

A film of anything but Kodak should help. ATF or engine oil applied with a shop cloth would be the most economical choices.

 

[PR1Gneon]

Put silica gel packs on the drawers.

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[Tom White]

Put silica gel packs on the drawers.

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Where do you get those. I never see them.

 

[PR1Gneon]

Where do you get those. I never see them.

Amazon, ebay etc. or get it for free from your new shoes and other products.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/191633098534

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[Itsjustdirt]

You guys sure like using nasty chemicals on tools that live in your hands.


There are two chemicals that come out on top per all the research I've seen.

Corrosionx- I think this is still "toxic". Great lubricant as well.

Fluid Film- I believe its advertised as non-toxic. Still a good lubricant but not as good as corosionx in my opinion. I use this on all of my metal tools to prevent rust. Its not magic but it works better than anything else I've tried.

Both of these chemicals FAR outperform WD40, T9 Boeshield, ATF, and whatever other **** you guys are using. Dont get me wrong, if whatever you're using works, stick with it. If it isn't working, try the above two and look at some of the many tests done comparing them to almost every other rust inhibiting oil/spray/wipe.

 

[James-W]

Air condition the shop. An air-conditioner will lower the humidity in the shop and should go a long way toward controlling the rusting of your tools.

 

[kythri]

You guys sure like using nasty chemicals on tools that live in your hands.

Camphor is only toxic in large doses, and is used in medicinal products, so, eh?

 

[azchrisf]

Any gun lube (Breakfree CLP for example) works, any light oil coating.
I use Kano's Prevox for tools I know may be sitting in the box for awhile before I use them. Leaves a very light wax-like coating on the tool.

 

[Wyoming09]

How do you know?

I'd be interested also. Seriously, I keep my tools in a garage with A LOT of pool chemicals. Maybe this is something I need to be aware of. Thanks.

 

[Empty Pockets]

Desiccant packs in the drawers. I've done this for years with great results

 

[Itsjustdirt]

I've always wondered how desiccant packs do anything at all in drawers or anything that is remotely exposed to natural air (ie: not sealed in a safe). Dont they just fill up after one humid day or night and then do nothing afterwards?

I know the desiccant packs I used have to be "recharged" (heated) every so often and I monitor humidity with color changing strips and the weight of the desiccant packs as well.

 

[Negen]

Not all desiccant is the same. Most common if silca gel (spelling?). I can tell you that anhydrous calcium sulfate will pretty much cause anything it touches to rust. Sold under brand names like damprid or dririte. Be carful with any products you choose to use some are safer than others. Labels and msds sheets should always be read and understood before using products of this nature before use.

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[5ktq]

I think camphor is safe as long as you don't eat a brick of it. (it is in vaporub as previously mentioned... and I put that in my nose).

We don't really have that problem here, too dry.

What about that paper that they ship bare steel goods in to prevent rust in packaging? I'm not sure what that is treated with. Imagine it works similar to camphor but doesn't smell, whatever it is.

 

[Angry welder]

I live in Alabama, the sweat box of the country, and have found anytime I store anything with a tarp over covering it the rust build up is worse than leaving it uncovered. Just a thought.

 

[zendriver]

Unless the roof leaks, I would think cover your toolbox up with a tarp be the worst thing to do.

That's the perfect place for condensation to form and stay.

Indiana has very high humidity and as long as I keep my tools and other equipment, wipe down with WD-40, I have zero problems.

air circulation is a must


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[bpjr]

I live on a brackish water river about a mile from the ocean. We get lot of salt air and stuff rusts quickly. My tools are in the garage and stored in several stacks of tool chests. Every week or two a drawer of tools is wiped down with motor oil. Every tool probably gets wiped down every 3-4 months. I use a squirt can and disposable gloves to rub it in. I use spray furniture wax on my tool chests. Putting any type of covers that slow air movement is a rapid way to make it rust faster here.