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RV 30 amp direct burial temp service

rmack898

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Honu Grove NE Florida
Title says it all.
I finally got electric service on my property and after this Dorian thing passes I will move my RV to my new homestead. I need to put a TT30R receptacle about 40' away from my meter and distribution panel. This will be a temporary service and I would like to use the most cost effective direct burial cable. The county requires no inspection or permit once the meter is installed.

My plan is to drive a 2x6 in the ground and mount my TT30R to it. This service will only be used for 4 months and then removed.

So my question is: what kind of cable do I need to make this work?
 

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brewchief

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I would use 10-2 UF cable, can buy by the foot or roll. FWIW a 50' roll is 85$ at big orange and a 100' roll is only a few bucks more, dunno why but watch out for that type of thing.

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brewchief

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An alternative if you didn't have to bury the wire would be to install the RV outlet right at the panel and buy a 50ft RV extension cord. Probably work out about the same cost wise.

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rmack898

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An alternative if you didn't have to bury the wire would be to install the RV outlet right at the panel and buy a 50ft RV extension cord. Probably work out about the same cost wise.

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Duh! Why didn't I think of that.

When they needed to get a 20 ton engine out of a ship, they call me to show them where to cut the hole.

I need 30 amps of power and all I need is an extension cord, what was I thinking.

Thanks Brewchief
 

AntonLargiader

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Charlottesville, VA
If you don't need 30A while parked there, you can connect to a 15A or 20A circuit using a standard extension cord. It's pretty common. The RV I borrow has a 30A cord but we have never tripped a 20A circuit with just the AC running. Depends what you need the RV to do.
 

nadogail

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Jan 23, 2009
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Coronado, CA
Please be careful using the extension cord. A friend lost his 17 year old son when he ran over a RV extension cord on the riding lawnmower. QUOTE]

I suggest you protect an extension cord used like this just like a shore power cable, that is keep it from being stepped on or being run over. Cover it with a box or some other temporary structure.

The term "temporary" is arbitrary, some tempoary buildings were still in use 50 years after their construction.
 

dcg9381

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The way I'd do this is park a Siemens Talon RV panel (has 50A, 30A, 20A GFCI) in an outdoor enclosure... Do it right next to the existing panel. Run a 40' 30A extension cord. The Talon panel is around $160 (Amazon) - it's a great addition for 3 outlet types and power configurations.

$160 is all-in with breakers and outlets.
 
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zmotorsports

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Not sure what your RV is but if you are thinking of running wire for a 30-amp RV plug, I would run for a 50 amp outlet so it will handle that larger RV when you buy it, which always seems to happen.:beer:
 

mrjaw14

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50A requires 3 conductors + gnd though and can be made to deliver 240v like a stove or dryer. a regular TT-30 is 2 conductor + gnd for 120v only. He'd also have to go to 8 awg wire instead of 10. If he's just needing to hang out in the RV until his house gets built, I'd stay with the 10-2 @ 30a.
 

dcg9381

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He'd also have to go to 8 awg wire instead of 10.

I'd run it with 6 GA. But he could literally do it right next to the boxes he has above. He just needs about 3' of wire, if that. Gives him a lot more power - about 4 times as much, assuming a 50A main connection.

Includes the TT-30 connector, of course. But he won't have to pull off the RV if he wants to run something in addition. In my experience, the 30A RVs are pretty well "at capacity" electrically if you're running the AC (or an electric heater) at all.

His situation might be different, but around here digging a trench is major work.

This is a look at the Siemens Talon box. It's $148 currently, including the breakers and connectors. 4 unused breaker slots in case something else is needed... Like a temporary water pump.

I've done a lot of "hanging out" until the house gets built... Love these things.


shopping
 
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zmotorsports

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50A requires 3 conductors + gnd though and can be made to deliver 240v like a stove or dryer. a regular TT-30 is 2 conductor + gnd for 120v only. He'd also have to go to 8 awg wire instead of 10. If he's just needing to hang out in the RV until his house gets built, I'd stay with the 10-2 @ 30a.

Agreed. I know it needs different materials but personally I wouldn't waste money only running for a 30-amp if it is going to be used for RV storage or use once the house/shop is complete. Every person I know that has run 30 amp for an RV eventually kicks themselves in the *** later on that they didn't run a 50 amp receptacle. Just trying to save some later frustration and suggested running it now rather than later.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
I'd run it with 6 GA. But he could literally do it right next to the boxes he has above. He just needs about 3' of wire, if that. Gives him a lot more power - about 4 times as much, assuming a 50A main connection.

Includes the TT-30 connector, of course. But he won't have to pull off the RV if he wants to run something in addition. In my experience, the 30A RVs are pretty well "at capacity" electrically if you're running the AC (or an electric heater) at all.

His situation might be different, but around here digging a trench is major work.

This is a look at the Siemens Talon box. It's $148 currently, including the breakers and connectors. 4 unused breaker slots in case something else is needed... Like a temporary water pump.

I've done a lot of "hanging out" until the house gets built... Love these things.


shopping

Why #6 when #8 THWN would work?
 
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dcg9381

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Why #6 when #8 THWN would work?

It would work for the RV, absolutely.

CHART

Edit:

#8 THWN (75C) Aluminum would do 40A. Copper will do 50A.

I'd use #6, depending on wire, you'd get 50-75A out of it depending. You'd be able to power several RVs and accessories. 3' of this isn't going to be much cost difference. This sub-panel, I believe, has a 100A main feed limit. We've powered 3 RVs off of one of these things, no problem, splitting the 50A and using the 30A.
 
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wyliesdiesels

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It would work for the RV, absolutely.

CHART

Looks like #8 THWN (75C) would do 40A. Enough for the RV for sure. It wouldn't power that 50A connect fully, but would work in most cases.

I'd use #6, depending on wire, you'd get 50-75A out of it depending. You'd be able to power several RVs and accessories. 3' of this isn't going to be much cost difference. This sub-panel, I believe, has a 100A main feed limit. We've powered 3 RVs off of one of these things, no problem, splitting the 50A and using the 30A.

Incorrect.

Try reading the chart again.
 

nh_yota

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Seacoast New Hampshire
What do you mean by temporary? Will it only be used once for a few weeks or months? Will it be used for a few weeks a year? Will it be used for 8 months every year?
 

MikeinNorthWales

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Nov 27, 2015
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SE Pennsylvania
My God, people...

Read the first post!

FOUR MONTHS!!!

TEMPORARY!!!

Extension cord. Cover it with something. Spend the effort elsewhere.

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TractorJeff

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Elkhorn, WI
My brother stopped overnight, went in to the closest shed to plug his camper in.
I said, "You know that is a 15 amp outlet? To which he replies, "Yeah just a few lights and TV". This chilly morning his wife blows up my phone with Texts! Seems you can't run the Heater and the Microwave and the TV and the Lights!
Which building is the Breaker in?
Long story short is what makes the Hot Water for a Shower?
 
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rmack898

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Jan 23, 2007
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3,190
Location
Honu Grove NE Florida
My God, people...

Read the first post!

FOUR MONTHS!!!

TEMPORARY!!!

Extension cord. Cover it with something. Spend the effort elsewhere.

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Thanks Mike.

After my "DUH" moment when Brewchief pointed out I could do this with an extension cord, I dug around in the cellar of this RV and found a new, still in the package, 25' extension cord. The RV has A 25' shore power cord and I can get the trailer within 50' of the meter can.

I picked up a WT box, a TT30 receptacle, a few feet of liquid tite conduit, some 10ga THHN, and a 30 amp single pole breaker. I'll put it all together tomorrow night and will be able to move the RV on Saturday after work.
This is only until the house and shop are finished and then this RV receptacle will be removed.

Next to the shop will be a dedicated RV site with water, sewer, and 50 amp electric service for visitors.
 

MikeinNorthWales

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Nov 27, 2015
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SE Pennsylvania
Yeah, sorry about my response. After you responded to Brewchief I should have stopped reading, but I figured I may learn something if I continue. When it appeared that you should future proof it in case you want to open a campground, I couldn't take it anymore. Good luck with your build!

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